1992 Buick Regal starting

[quote:b716531422="outofaz4gd"]Electrical problem
1992 Buick Regal 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 80,000 miles
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had a problem with car sputtering and dying after driving about 5 miles. was told it was probrably the coil packs getting hot or the ignition control module.
or both.. changed those -- starter was also shot so i replaced that also. all wires are back where they came from. will not start.... before replacing these it would start on the 2nd or 3rd try-- but would start.. only it would die about 5 miles down the road. now the starter works but seems like it is getting no spark--just cranks over and over again. any help you could give me would be much appreciated.
engine is a 3800-buick regal custom
thank you
joe
also just changed plugs and wires about a month ago and is getting gas.[/quote:b716531422]

where did you get the parts at? does it start with your old parts back on it?

got plugs and wires at auto zone -- got starter- ignition control module and coil packs at junkyard.
put old icm and coil packs back on and did not start that way either.
in order to put in forum do i need to go back to car repair page or just hit reply to you .. first time here.

just went out and took the wires off the plugs - (one at a time) and put in a different plug into the ends of the wires and held to ground . no spark from any of them??

[quote:94a819a5c9="outofaz4gd"]got plugs and wires at auto zone -- got starter- ignition control module and coil packs at junkyard.
put old icm and coil packs back on and did not start that way either.
in order to put in forum do i need to go back to car repair page or just hit reply to you .. first time here.

just went out and took the wires off the plugs - (one at a time) and put in a different plug into the ends of the wires and held to ground . no spark from any of them??[/quote:94a819a5c9]

just hit quote to reply....buying parts at autozone is not a good idea, they are junk sorry to say and I dont trust them, jack the car up and look at the front crank pully, I believe the crank sensor is in there, grab hold of the wires and wiggle it a little and see if it is loose, if its loose it will need replacing, I will look this up to make sure and get back to you. what was the engine size 3.1 or 3.8?

engine is a 3.8. crank sensor was replaced about 2 weeks ago. by a certified mechanic not me, so i am sure that is ok. went and got a screwdriver type power tester and am getting power everywhere, up to the ignition control module that the coil packs sit on, just not getting any power through them. so i went and got another ignition control module to make sure i did not blow the first one- since i forgot to disconnect the battery before installation-new one did not work either. what i did notice though is that there are 3 red wires coming up from under the motor ( can not tell where they come from as they are coming out of a cover with about 30 other wires in it) any way 2 of these wires go to the fuse box located next to the battery- that holds the fuses for the horn , hi beam/lo beam , fog lamps- nothing that would keep it from starting. the third wire is unhooked? i did not unhook this wire that i can remember. it has a male plug in on end of it. have looked everywhere to see if i may have inadvertantly unplugged and can find no where to plug in. only has about 6 inches of play in the wire . usually red means power-so maybe this one little wire is my problem . to be honest i dont know. anyway getting power everywhere except from the ignition control module plate up through the coils. have tried three different plates and all are the same. they are getting power - just not sending it through the coils.
all fuses are good and fuel injectors are getting power also. any suggestions would be appreciated
thanks
JOE

[quote:2974a4fa99="outofaz4gd"]engine is a 3.8. crank sensor was replaced about 2 weeks ago. by a certified mechanic not me, so i am sure that is ok. went and got a screwdriver type power tester and am getting power everywhere, up to the ignition control module that the coil packs sit on, just not getting any power through them. so i went and got another ignition control module to make sure i did not blow the first one- since i forgot to disconnect the battery before installation-new one did not work either. what i did notice though is that there are 3 red wires coming up from under the motor ( can not tell where they come from as they are coming out of a cover with about 30 other wires in it) any way 2 of these wires go to the fuse box located next to the battery- that holds the fuses for the horn , hi beam/lo beam , fog lamps- nothing that would keep it from starting. the third wire is unhooked? i did not unhook this wire that i can remember. it has a male plug in on end of it. have looked everywhere to see if i may have inadvertantly unplugged and can find no where to plug in. only has about 6 inches of play in the wire . usually red means power-so maybe this one little wire is my problem . to be honest i dont know. anyway getting power everywhere except from the ignition control module plate up through the coils. have tried three different plates and all are the same. they are getting power - just not sending it through the coils.
all fuses are good and fuel injectors are getting power also. any suggestions would be appreciated
thanks
JOE[/quote:2974a4fa99]

that maybe a fuel pump test port, and red doesnt always mean power

is there any way you can take a picture of your coils and control moduel, there are 3 types of ignition systems for this car or do you know which one you have, one is controled by the ECM (computer) since you said you couldnt pull codes out of it it could be the prob

was the crankshaft sensor that was replaced- not the cam sensor. will replaced this on monday when i get money to do this.went and got another ignition control module(exchanged) and am going to try this one today.will let you know either way. your help is much appreciated as i would have never figured any of this out. if i take it apart i can put back together , but i didn't know what to take apart or replace. here are the pictures of the coil packs and module. thanks joe

couldn't pull the codes because the diagnostic tool they brought over only went down to the plug in for a 96-- mines a 92 would not fit the hook up under the dash.

think i may have found the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!-- (i think).. guess i should have checked the cam sensor when you told me to. then i could have picked up the part i needed when i was at the junkyard today. the cam sensor i believe is ok.... but the wires on the connector are not , one is completely broke off and the other 3 are still connected but wore through like the ends of uncovered speaker wire. am going to go get a new connector and solder together, plug back in and cross my fingers as i really DO NOT want to have to change the sensor itself.anyway will update you on monday night and let you know how it went. hopefully it will be good news. either way you are going to get some very positive feedback and as many points as i am able to give you. on my screen it says i only have 0.2 points , but if i have to i will buy some. you deserve it.
thanks
joe

is it the crankshaft sensor or cam sensor that sits down by the water pump behind the harmonic balancer. i think you are right that it is the crankshaft sensor --- i just didn't want to believe it!! since a mechanic was suppose to have just changed it. the sensor itself looks new-- but the wires as i said are shot. thought that it would have been mentioned , instead of just letting us drive off knowing that it would just break down on us again. got use to an honest mechanic for the last 10 years had same one- then we moved. the scematic i got off the internet says that the crank has 4 wires and the cam has 3 wires --this one has 4.. so i guess i just wanted to tell you that you were right.will try to fix tommorrow and will let you know.
thanks
joe

thanks joe. we are those honest mechanics you were talking about and alot of times we get bashed for not performing miracles with our crystal balls in here. we really do know what we are doing and its nice that you recognize it instead of not reposting and just disappearing which a lot of people just do. so thanks

well i rewired the connector- soldered the ends and used the shrink tubing around the soldered connections.... still does not start. my guess would be that the crankshaft sensor was not even replaced and will have to do it myself. going to try to find a diagnostic tool cause this is really getting frustrating. the wires still needed to be fixed but --- well thanks for the help and i will be back to check on any suggestions you may have.
thanks
joe
also as far as mastertechtim wrote-- there is no reason that anyone who comes to this site should not trust your opinion and abilities. you guys are not charging 2 or 3 hundred dollars for this service - and they should realize that. it is hard enough to diagnose a problem , especially electrical in person might less over the internet no where near the problem. SO THANKS GUYS - JOE

went and bought a code reader and i am getting a code 23 on it. the manual saya it could be MAT sensor , throttle position sensor , mixture control (M/C) solenoid , or intake air temp sensor. would any of these keep the engine from getting spark?
got the INNOVA GM CODE READER

[quote:dfa9b231ce="outofaz4gd"]went and bought a code reader and i am getting a code 23 on it. the manual saya it could be MAT sensor , throttle position sensor , mixture control (M/C) solenoid , or intake air temp sensor. would any of these keep the engine from getting spark?
got the INNOVA GM CODE READER[/quote:dfa9b231ce]

the MAP sensor could and cause back firing also
my codes says 23 is a IAT ( intake air temp low )
Tim must have been writing to someone else lol

do you have a mass airflow sensor on this car, its inline in the air filter tube, try tapping it easyily while trying to start, the IAT is in there too

YES I HAVE THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR - WAS GETTING NO CODES SO I UNHOOKED IT AND I GOT THE CODE 23 - WAS CHECKING TO SEE IF THE CODE READER WAS WORKING. RESET THE CODES AND REHOOKED THE SENSOR AND NOW NOTHING.
WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP - THIS CAR IS COSTING US MORE THAN ITS WORTH----SO ITS GONE TOMORROW--NO MORE HEADACHES(at least with this car) am going to buy an autoxray ez-read 2000 obd-1 and obd-2 code reader so when we go get a new(used)car next time i will check it before i buy. cover all makes and models from 83 to current year. better to spend the 200 dollars on that that the 500+ i've already put into this car.
thanks
joe

[quote:06008492d4="outofaz4gd"]YES I HAVE THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR - WAS GETTING NO CODES SO I UNHOOKED IT AND I GOT THE CODE 23 - WAS CHECKING TO SEE IF THE CODE READER WAS WORKING. RESET THE CODES AND REHOOKED THE SENSOR AND NOW NOTHING.
WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP - THIS CAR IS COSTING US MORE THAN ITS WORTH----SO ITS GONE TOMORROW--NO MORE HEADACHES(at least with this car) am going to buy an autoxray ez-read 2000 obd-1 and obd-2 code reader so when we go get a new(used)car next time i will check it before i buy. cover all makes and models from 83 to current year. better to spend the 200 dollars on that that the 500+ i've already put into this car.
thanks
joe[/quote:06008492d4]

did you try tapping on the mass air flow sensor?

have tried everything we could think of -- my aunts boyfriend is a mechanic-just found this out.. he came over and tried everything he could think of and nothing --so it is going away to be someone elses problem --or solution if they just need parts.
thanks for all the help
joe

tried to give you some feedback and points but when i hit submit it either says you can not give more than you have and when i try to give the 0.7 points that i have it asks why give zero. anyway for anyone who reads this buzzsaw is professional , informative and quick to respond. it is had to find a good honest mechanic nowadays and i believe buzzsaw to be one of these. the only problem is that he wasn't here in person-i believe the problem would have been diagnosed and repaired on the first day if that were possible.
thanks buzzsaw
joe

[quote:3c616281c7="outofaz4gd"]tried to give you some feedback and points but when i hit submit it either says you can not give more than you have and when i try to give the 0.7 points that i have it asks why give zero. anyway for anyone who reads this buzzsaw is professional , informative and quick to respond. it is had to find a good honest mechanic nowadays and i believe buzzsaw to be one of these. the only problem is that he wasn't here in person-i believe the problem would have been diagnosed and repaired on the first day if that were possible.
thanks buzzsaw
joe[/quote:3c616281c7]

Joe thanks for the responce, Joe thats one thing I could never figure out, why do mechanics have to rip people off, I never had to do that to make money
and that is another problem I dont get to see the cars in person which makes it harder to diagnois