car wont start after it gets hot

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Ignition modlues are the first thing that comes to mind on this symptom.

Usually a plugged converter will give other symptoms like a rough run, misfire, lack of aceleration.
Glad you found it!

[quote:3d8587ba3b="Service Writer"]Usually a plugged converter will give other symptoms like a rough run, misfire, lack of aceleration.
Glad you found it![/quote:3d8587ba3b]
ok car still not restarting when hot also replaced filter fuel ingnition modjuel,converter,fuel regulatoe sensor i dont know what else to do please help thanks

Are you able to determine if you are not getting spark or not getting fuel?

A shot of starting fluid or carb cleaner can be sprayed in the throttle body to check for lack of fuel.
Maybe the sock in the tank gets plugged.


You can try to get it to happen and be prepared with a bucket of ice water and a towel. You can quickly cool off a suspect component that is overheating.


Try wiggling or tapping on the m.a.f sensor when the no start happens. IF nothing unplug it and try it.

Mine did that and I had the cranks sensor replaced and it fixed it... was about 200 bucks

My car won't start. It will crank but not turn over. The spark plugs are drenched with gas when I crank the car. I have changed the fuel pump. But it appears the main culpit is the spark plugs being flooded with gas when the car is cranked.

Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester.

My car won't start so I put it in neutral to roll it back so I can jump start it. Then I am able to start it -- just by rolling it back. ANy ideas?

Possible causes: could be the starter, starter relay, park/neutral switch and ignition switch

Recently my Buick started this problem. Half the time it starts and runs fine, the other half it will not start (after not being used for several hours). When it doesn't start, the first turn of the key sounds normal, but if i continue to try, there is a sort of "backfire" that seems to occur where in the air filter compartment, and there is a puff of white vapor/smoke in the same position.

I do have a check engine light that's been coming on for about 2 months, which I was told was saying that my EGR valve was bad. At the time I was told this at Autozone, they also said it wasn't a serious situation, and at most I would probably have reduced gas mileage until I replaced it.

I'm not sure if the EGR valve could be causing the random ignition failures, and while I wait on my paycheck, I took out the valve and attempted to clean it and oil it with WD40. It didn't fix the problem, so I'm wondering if this could be the whole problem, or if it's not involved, and what the issue might be.

Thanks in advance for any help!

-Steve-

Cross these two terminals as shown, then turn the key on. Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 12. Write them down and post here. This connector is right under the middle of the dash...

ok just did that. it seemed to give me two different codes. a 13 and a 32.

thanks again !

o2 sensor and egr. these are not causing your starting issues. if this has the 4 cylinder engine then most likely the cause is the #1 spark plug wire is bad so rep[lace plugs and plug wires. if the engine is in fact a 3.8l v6 then the problem is probably a faulty coil pack and you can check it by using a ohm meter across the towers of the coils and you will probably find one that has a open in it.

Ok, I will do that asap. Thanks a ton for the advice. As far as the o2 sensor and EGR issues, I take it I'll just need to replace the sensor, but any advice on diagnosing the EGR code?

Get it running first then we will worry about the egr...32 could also be the MAP sensor voltage is low...

ok just finished replacing plugs and wires, also went ahead and replaced the o2 sensor.

car started on the first try afterwards, so hopefully that behavior will continue.

edit:

car is still starting. after clearing ECM codes and driving it then getting a check engine light, i'm still getting the 13 and 32 codes.

well i jinxed myself. it's not starting again, same backfire thing.

any other suggestions?

what ignition system does this have (here are 2 different ) are the coils all one piece or are there 3 seperate coils? if they are all one coil in a block then replace it. you can check for sure by using a ohm meter across the coil towers and i strongly feel you will find a coil out of resistance

i'm still rather new to this, but as far as i'm understanding, the coils are in a single block. i'm going to check for spark and also test the posts at the coil as you suggested.

that coil pack is a bad design and is very common for your condition. you will find one set of coiltowers to be open causing your problem and all you have to do is replace it

i will test and replace if found open.. thanks again!!

ok well i had time to work on it today, so i picked up an ignition coil and got a better understanding of what it was... as a result it seems i have 2 coils right next to each other.

i tested them both, and the reading was (please bare with my ineptitude with a multi-meter) 5.6 for both, while the new coil i bought reads 8.4 or so.

do i need to replace them both, or is there an underlying problem?

5.6K OHMS is acceptable resistance for the coils. both were the same? they sound ok. on the first cylinder where the spark plug wire is near the alternator bracket, try putting some wire loom cover over it and make sure its not touching the bracket. its very important that wire is in good shape and connected properly.

Yes, both tested the same. I maybe should have noted that the car started fine before i tested it. Do I need to perform the test when it's not properly igniting?

The wire is brand new and connected fine and isn't touching anything. I'll pick up wire loom when I return the coil.

Yes recheck when cold or when its acting up.

i finally caught it acting up when i had time to test it. it's been starting regularly until today. i tested the coils and they were still reading between 5.6 and 5.7k ohms.

i'm wondering, since it's been starting lately every time, and the weather has also been hot while today it's a little cooler and rainy, if there is a correlation?

if not, what can i try next?

If it acts up in the rain, wait till dark get a spray bottles and mist down sections at a time till you see it arcing...if you don't see it in the dark! Do you still have the check engine light? If the EGR code is still present see if it's stuck open, if it is replace it...an open EGR CAN prevent a car from starting...32 can also be the Manifold absoilute pressure sensor*MAP) and this can definatly cause starting and drivability problems...

yes, i still have check engine light, including the EGR code. the valve is not stuck and seems to move normally (though i'd have to feel a brand new one to know exactly). when the car does start there is no apparent drivability issue.

i also still get an o2 sensor code even though i replaced it. i'll try the mist bottle thing asap.

to clarify.. for testing with the spray bottle at night.. does this need to be done when the car won't start.. and as far as where to spray, all over the engine area in small sections at a time?

Concentrate on the coils and wires, and dont forget what I said earlier...The MAP can also be the reason for the 32 code....

ok well.. finally caught it acting up and while it was dusk i pulled it into the garage and tried the spray bottle. unfortunately i saw nothing of note.

the car has been starting 80% of the time, and i still haven't seen for sure if it always doesn't start during/after rainfall, but i'm trying.

any other things to test?

this is a 4 cyl correct? if it is you are most likely going to find a coil and or ignition module causing this problem, possible moisture getting into a cracked coil causing 2 cylinders not to fire. you can shot gun blast with 2 coils and a module or next time its dead check for spark output voltaqge on every cylinder and i bet youll find 2 cylinders are weak or one is dead. they need 25000 volts is a good spark. they sell a st125 took which looks like a spark plug wire with a aligator clip on it, its used to measure spark output voltage.

4 cyl, it is.

shot gun blast?

i have only checked the resistance on the ignition coils, which did not change whether the car was starting or not.

would it be a good idea, maybe, to take out the coils and module and take them to autozone to get checked? if so, any tips on removing them being on the back of the engine and hard to see?

shotgun blast is basically replacing the ignition system parts that have not been changed and by doing that you have a high percentage of fixing it. remove coils and module by removing the 5.5mm bolts holding down the coils and the module will come out. autozone cant test them but removing the coils you might find a crack in them which is probably what the problem is. keep us posted

i think i saw that autozone can test the module, but either way it sounds like i should go ahead and remove it all.

it's been raining for almost 2 days straight here, and it started just fine both days now, so i'm guessing the water thing was just a coincidence.

let u know what i find.

OK

This car was my daily driver for over a year, and it was my fathers before this for another three years. It drove like a dream and never had any trouble starting before this. My boyfriend and I drove to his friends house for the night, the next morning when we were leaving it wouldn't start at all it sounded like it was bogging down on every turn, we tried and tried until the battery was dead. We tried jumping it and used starter fluid with no luck. So a week went by and we towed it home my father looked at it and we thought it wasn't receiving enough gas and checked the fuel filter and pump the filter was clogged so badly with this gooey syrup like substance, so we bought a new one to put on it. We checked spark plugs they were all good. We then checked the oil it was almost 5 quarts over filled with gas and smelled really strong. We drained the oil and replaced it about half way to see if it would fill back up. The engine is flooding out with gas to the point it was spraying out when we were trying to start it I made my father quit and we let it sit for another week or so came back and he bought a new battery and tried it then it caught on fire. Did someone sabotage my car by maybe putting sugar in the tank or something because the gas did not smell right and we filled it up about four days earlier? It doesn't make any sense it started perfectly every day no problem is it worth trying to fix? Or is it something more serious?

Someone could have done something, but that is a good question at this point. If the engine is filling up with fuel, then my guess is that either the fuel pressure regulator is not working and allowing too much fuel to enter the engine or injectors are sticking and dumping fuel.

Lets start by checking fuel pump pressure to see if it is within the manufacturer's specs. If you need directions, go to our homepage. We have directions and a video to help you.

You know... it is funny it wouldn't start with starting fluid. Are you sure there is spark to the plugs? Were the plugs wet?

We did check all the spark plugs and they all have a spark we even replaced them just to be sure. I'm not sure if they were wet I don't believe they were my father replaced them. We checked the fuel pump and filter, the filter was clogged beyond belief but the pump seemed to be working. I just don't understand what could of happened to it but I will definitely try checking the fuel pressure regulator and see what's up with it and come back to you on that.

What would cause gas to be in the oil my father is a small engine mechanic but he said he has never come across that in a car?

When we were trying to turn it over and my dad was looking through to maybe try and pin point something the exhaust was leaking what we thought was condensation but when he touched he said it smelt like gas. I know that cant be normal. It also has a timing chain could timing be an issue for it to not catch and turn over?

Thank you so much , Victoria

You have to either have a stuck injector dumping fuel into the engine or the regulator isn't working.