Brand new battery, brand new alternator, battery light still on after resetting it

hello, is this car equipped with a battery temperature sensor. located under the battery? Heres the resistance test: Disconnect the heater blanket from the vehicles electrical system. Using an Ohmmeter, connect the leads across the two wire terminals coming from the heater blanket. A resistance value of 220 to 280 ohms should be present. If not replace the blanket. And is there any diagnostic trouble codes stored? The light is turned on by a PCI BUS circuit, with the voltage regulator built into the ECM.
Heres some other info I found in All Data:
The PCM uses the ambient air temperature sensor to control the charge system voltage. This temperature, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate. The system voltage is higher at cold temperatures and is gradually reduced as the calculated battery temperature increases.

The ambient temperature sensor is used to control the battery voltage based upon ambient temperature (approximation of battery temperature). The PCM maintains the optimal output of the generator by monitoring battery voltage and controlling it to a range of 13.5 - 14.7 volts based on battery temperature.

Okay, there's no battery temperature sensor under the battery, i checked. The new symptoms are loss of fuel response, in others words it acts like it is going to shut off. the radio stopped working. I cleaned all the grounds double checked my work. had the alternator checked out and it is good. i pulled out the ECM and had it sent off. Thank you all for replying back so quickly and thank you for your time.

Let us know what you find out about the ECM, if it doesn't do the trick we'll have to do some voltage drop testing. I would take a real good look at the ECM pins too, a loose fitting connection or bad wire, there's many possibilities.

I sure will, hopefully it will be the fix.thanks again.

Electrical problem
2004 Chrysler Sebring V6 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 82000 miles

i have a 2004 chryler sebring convertible.. had a 500 watt amp (alpine) deck, and sub. ever since i have my headlights and dash lights flickering to the bass. battery warning light has come on a few times. i have has everything looked over in my car by 7 different shops. there is nothing wrong with my car. or the charging system. it a 120 amp alternator. with a load test its peeking 90 amps. battery stay well over 12 volts. no one can tell me why its doing this. i have had a power cap put on it still had the problems. so took the cap out. had the amp change. grounds to the amp and the car all checked. 8 guage power wire straight from the barrery to the amp. also not sure if this means anything but my engine light came on a week after having this sterio installed it was saying the o2 sencer. had it tested but nothing wrong with it. engine light went away on its own came back a few on a few times. happends when the sterio it playing loud bass. please help me....... melinda

The audio system is drawing too much power for your vehicle's charging system to handle. If you wish to keep the system without damaging your vehicle's charging system I suggest having a separate battery installed soley for the audio system to run on. Otherwise you will have to turn down the bass.. Engine code for oxygen sensor can come on for faulty wiring to oxygen sensors or for a faulty catalytic converter. Symptoms of either of these would be poor fuel mileage.



Thanks for using 2CarPros.com!

i just found out today that theres to high of voltage from the battery. it gave a code for that for the first time. could it be the computer in the car. the alternator is only working at 75%.

The battery is only used to start the vehicle, the alternator is what is used to run the vehicle. Suspect faulty voltage regulator. The regulator is built into the alternator.

i had thought the same thing voltage regulator or the pcm or the sensor under the battery. that had alll been ruled out... im at a loss with this car...

Check all ground and power wires for the charging system to ensure they are clean and tightened properly. Is battery new? Check water level of battery.

its a maintenance free battery. and all grounds had already been checked a couple weeks ago. and problems stayed after that.. and battery terminals tightend..

and battery is testing as new.. and i had a bigger battery tested on it.. and broblem was still there....

when i was driving yesterday, on my dash, the brake and battery light came on. what could be the problem?

What was the voltage at when you say it was high? Was it greater than 19 volts? If so then the alternator is at fault. Have you replaced the alt. or just tested it?

Start by having the charging system tested by a mechanic, not at an auto parts store. Tell me what they find for "full-load output current", "charging voltage", and "ripple voltage". The test just takes a few minutes.

Is that the red "brake" warning light or the yellow "anti-lock" brake system light?

last night while driving with the stareo on. the battery light came on..after about 30 mins. turned car off started it again and the warning light was gone. it left a code.. the guy just told me it it said voltage to high.. but last week while under load tested battery and 14.5 volts about. alternator was giving out 90 amp peeking. but staying mostly around 80- 85 amps.. problem has been here for a month. the code only showed up today.. whatever is doing it is cousing these probems. when the car is off but sterio playing with bass the lights dont flicker. at least not nearly as bad... i have another apointment with a sterio place tommorrow. do u think it could be something to do with the way the sony xplod deck was huked up.. could it cause my car to do all this....thanx so much for helping me. melinda

it is the red brake light.

It is possible.. Have you tried disconnecting the power wire of the system ? If the lights are flickering than there can't be too much voltage rather not enough.. There is something screwy with the audio set up. Either the amp is not adjusted properly or perhaps the speakers or aftermarket radio are not hooked up properly.

my dad tested the alternator and it is putting out 17.8 at idle. he wants to know how to test the ripple voltage and the full load output current?

i have taken it back 5 or 6 times where i bought and had the stereo huked up. they regrounded the amp. changed the amp.. changed the setting on the amp.. i had sugested to them maybe its something to do with the after market deck. they said no... that the fuse would blow. when the stereo is not on, the car shows no problems.. its when the bass hits... the speakers in the car i have not changed... i am leaning towards something with the deck itself or with the huke up of it... thats why i have made another apointment with a new audio place... this is a very annoying problem. oh and one more this im not sure if this mean anything... when the car is running without stareo it takes 30 amps.. when stereo on it takes peeking 90 amp.. the amp fuse is only 25. why is it not blowing with the extra 50 amps... i think the deck might be 10 or something....

Dandy. You might want to charge the battery at a slow rate for an hour, with a portable charger, but I will be back tomorrow to see if you had the charging system tested. No need to waste time looking for other causes that may not exist until we know the test results.

Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir too. If you have to add a little, do not fill it very much or to the top. Be very careful to not get any petroleum product in there, like engine oil or power steering fluid. That would create a very expensive repair.

or maybe the problem was here all along just didnt notice it.. maybe the stereo bring the problem out to where i notice it now... i really dont know...

You cannot test anything else without a professional load tester, but it is irrelevant. 17.8 volts is way too high and is going to destroy the battery and numerous computers and bulbs. The acceptable range is 13.75 to 14.75 volts.

Measure the voltages on the two smaller terminals on the back of the alternator and the larger output stud. The first two must be done with the engine running. I will need to dig up a service manual at home to see where to go next. This charging system is different from what I have memorized.

Alternator went out so I put a rebuilt one in. I drove it one day it was fine, the next day the battery light came on again. This time I bought a new alternator. Light still on when you drive under load but not on when it is in idle. Replaced battery still on. Do I need to clear a code or something in the computer?

Is this a Sebring Coupe, Convertible or Sedan The Sedan and Convertible are built on a different chassis than the Coupe and use different wiring.

17.8 is very high for charging but if the battery was faulty it may put out a higher voltage to try to compensate for the problem. Testing for ripple is done by checking for an AC voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running. Load testing requires either a carbon pile tester or a charging system analyzer.

Do you have the domestic convertible or sedan model, or the Mitsubishi-built model?
Here is an article to get you started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

It is the limited coupe

It is a sedan, 2.4 dual overhead cam engine.

Did you measure the voltages I asked about?

Ripple voltage can be misleading. Digital volt / ohm meters measure AC voltage accurately only at 60 HZ, which is house current. Their accuracy drops way off at higher frequencies. To add to the misery, I've been doing these tests for well over 35 years, but I never used a tester that displayed a voltage for ripple voltage, so I don't know what "normal" is. Every tester I've ever used shows the relative ripple voltage as "low", "high", or somewhere in between. It's not common to find something in between. Normally ripple voltage will be low AND full-load output current will be close to the alternator's rated capacity, or ripple voltage will be high, AND the most you can get on the full-load test is exactly one-third of the alternator's rated capacity. That is caused by one failed internal diode of the six, but that won't result in the severe over-charge condition you found.

I can see that I added some confusion to the story. The diagram shows three wires, plus the output wires, at the alternator. This circuit is different from the simple and common Chrysler circuit that worked well for decades. You have a Mitsubishi alternator with an internal voltage regulator. The regulator can be replaced separately to try to solve the over-charging condition, but the Engine Computer is involved too. In the Chrysler system, the regulator is built into the Engine Computer so it can modify charging voltage according to a number of variables. The Engine Computer in your car also has some say in the desired charging voltage, but I don't know what voltages to expect on the wires. I DO know the computer would never request 17.8 volts. That leaves the voltage regulator or entire alternator as what needs to be replaced.

I am going to guess you have the domestic model. That will have three wires on the alternator to take voltage readings. So we do not overlook anything, start out by measuring the battery's voltage with the engine off. You should find 12.6 volts. If it is closer to 12.2 volts, the battery is run down and should be recharged at a slow rate for an hour or two. If you should find it around 11 volts or less, it has a shorted cell and must be replaced.

Once the engine is running, measure the battery's voltage again and tell me what you find. Go to the large output stud on the back of the alternator and measure the voltage there. It must be exactly the same as what you found at the battery, well, within a tenth or two of a volt.

Next, there is two small wires plugged in on the back. You will need to back-probe through the connector to take those readings because they are only valid when they are plugged in and the engine is running. Tell me what you find on those two.

If you have trouble getting stable readings on the smaller wires, it is because Chrysler changed the layout of the circuit a few years earlier. Operation is the same, but all the voltages we had memorized for the last forty years are different. If your voltmeter's display is bouncing around too much to read, use a test light instead. All we need to know is the relative brightness. Poke it across the battery and you will see what full brightness looks like. Compare that to its brightness on the two smaller wires. Again, these readings must be taken with the engine running.

Shut it off start it again it is off for a couple minutes then comes back on. i replaced my battery and alternator brand new.

Hi,

I need you to check the alternator output. On these vehicles, the regulator is integral with the power-train control module (PCM). It isn't a separate component. If charging is not happening when the light comes on, the regulator is most likely bad.

Here is a link that explains how to test an alternator. I need you to first check battery voltage with the engine off. It should be right around 12v. Then test it with the engine running and the light off. It should be around 14v. Last, test it with the light on and let me know the results. Here is a link that will help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let me know what you find.

Joe

My brake and battery lights come on and off, I replaced battery and that seemed to help for a while. Then it just died so I replaced the altenator and that keeps it running. But the brtake and battery light still come on and flash, when I rev up the rpms they go off and as soon as I let off the gas they come on. The battery has a full charge and the new altenator tests good. I noticed that while im idoling in park and turn on the lights, heater, radio, ect, the brake and battery lights seem to dim and then disappear. Any thoughts?

Acts like the belt is loose. Can you connect a voltmeter to watch what happens when the lights come on? The system voltage must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts.

caradiodoc

Car dies battery light comes on. had alt check its cood have new interstate megantron battery. what could be issue

How does this happen? Does the "battery" light turn on after the engine stalls or does the light come on while you're driving, then the engine stalls a while later? Will it restart with a jump-start? Was the alternator tested while the "battery" light was on? If not, it was tested while an intermittent problem wasn't occurring.

Alternator light intermittently comes off and on in my 1998 chrysler sebring, The alt. & battary are brand new.

what is the voltage at the battery with the engine running??

Roy

Everything checked out good. Once in a while the car won't start, so I tap on the ground connection on the shock tower and then it starts, and yes I've taken the cables apart and have cleaned them.

ok, tighten the lug that the cable is mounted on.

what is the voltage at the battery with the engine running??

Roy