Brakes not working

Hi,

If there are no leaks, either you got a bad master cylinder or there is still air in the system. Here is the sequence (order) for bleeding the brakes on this vehicle:

Front wheel drive models: RR-LF-LR-RF

Did you follow that order? Can you explain how it was done to me? Also, have a helper press the brake pedal while you watch the rubber brake hoses at the calipers. Make sure they aren't expanding.

Let me know.
Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the quick reply.

Didn't do the brake bleeding in the order you listed. I've always done brake bleeding starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working to the nearest (in this case RR, LR, RF, LF). Was done the old fashion way with a helper (my wife) in the car pressing on the brake pedal while I opened/closed the bleeder valve.

I did a visual of the brake hoses. They looked okay but didn't check if they expanded when the pedal was pressed.

I did check the RF caliper for movement. Had my wife step on the brake while I had the caliper off and a big C clamp and steel block held against the piston. I was surprised to find when I back off the C clamp a little and she pressed on the brake the piston would move only an 1/8 of an inch or so. Was expecting the piston to shoot out and hit and steel block hard, like when it is being removed with compressed air for a caliper rebuild.

When I bench bled the master cylinder it got harder to push in the piston but never to the point I couldn't push the piston in. Should it have gotten to the point I couldn't move the master cylinder piston? If that is the case I'll have to pull it and try the bench bleeding again to verify if it is defective or not.

Hi,

The sequence you used when bleeding is the common way it's done. I would try doing it the way the manual indicates. Also, let me know if the vehicle has ABS.

As far as the master cylinder getting harder when bench bleeding, that shouldn't happen. All you are doing is pressing unrestricted fluid back into the reservoir until the air is gone. I wonder if you just simply got a bad master cylinder.

Try the bleeding as indicated. If that doesn't make a difference, replace the master cylinder. It's been awhile. I don't remember the push rod as being adjustable.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm tied up the next few days so don't expect to be able to work on the car until sometime next week. Will let know how I make out.

Mike

Sounds good, Mike. Make sure when you bleed them that the pressure is substantial when you open the bleeders.

Take care,
Joe

Joe,

Finally got some free time to get back to the brakes. Checked the master cylinder and it is fine, not the cause of the problem. Bled the brakes following your suggested sequence. Noticed the right front did not have as great a flow or pressure of brake fluid as the left front, for example. Given both are on the same brake line circuit I suspect there may be a partial blockage in the right front brake hose so I took the hose and caliper off the car. While I didn't see any cracks it is hard to tell if the hose has a partial blockage under high pressure so decided to replace the hose. While the caliper is off I thought I would check the piston and bore for any rust or damage. Bottom line is a new hose and caliper rebuild kit are on order. Should get the parts from Rock Auto in a week or so.

Will keep you updated on how things work out after the new parts are installed.

Mike

Mike,

I have seen the rubber hoses deteriorate internally and cause a caliper not to release. Let me know how things turn out for you. I'm interested in knowing.

Joe

Joe,

I rebuilt the front right caliper and replaced the brake hose. Went ahead and bled all four wheels once more. Brakes are now working fine.

Thanks much for all your help.

Mike

Hi Mike,

I'm glad to hear it's fixed, and you are very welcome. I hope if you need help in the future, you come back. You are always welcome to return.

Take care,
Joe