Brake lights are semi functional?

Do you have power at the fuse # 20 on the right side of the fuse panel?

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If so, please test through the brake light switch, here is the location in the images below, also please go over this guide as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-lights-not-working

Here are the brake light wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

I haven’t tested the brake switch, and I believe that may be where the problem lies. Worst case scenario I will be replacing it as soon as possible.

Sounds good please let us know.

So, after replacing the old switch, the brake lights still aren’t working. I tested continuity on the connection to the switch and found that the connectors top female ports do not have continuity. Does this mean I need to change out the wire harness?

Another note. I charged the battery, just to make sure that there wasn’t a low power issue.

On the brake light switch do you have power at the red/blk wire?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Test with the key on.

Don’t have a probe like that, I have a CL120. But I’m getting tone indicators from all four points.

I’m changing out the relay for the brakes. Hopefully this is the solution.

Is fuse #20 good?

Yes, I've tested all of the fuses for continuity, and they are all giving tone.

As of this post, here is what’s been done to remedy this situation. Testing tool used: Klein Tools CL120 Voltmeter.
1. changed bulbs, and also inspected sockets, and tested for continuity: there is tone.
2. Changed and re-inspected fuses: tone from sockets and also new fuses.
3. Replaced brake light switch under dash above the brake pedal; tested socket continuity: there is tone.
4. Changed all but one brake/rear light relay (the sun was setting.) unsure of how to test for continuity in this case.
5. Checked the engine fuses related to the brake or rear lights; no replacements made: there is tone.
Once again, the odd thing is that the top rear brake light bar is functioning, but not the two on the rear; And yet the hazards, reverse, and turn signal lights are all functional.

With the key on and the brake pedal depressed do you have power at the yellow wire from the brake light switch?

Yes, I tested both fuse and cable with the key set to on. There is tone on both.

Okay, now with the brake pedal depressed check the yellow and blue wires back at the brake lights bulbs, are the bulbs good?

With the key set to on, and the brake depressed, the socket is giving tone. The wires are black and green to the brake light socket.

Still the brake lights don’t work when brake is depressed.

Okay, it sounds like the bulb ground is bad (black wire). I would use this guide to help check the bulb ground.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

You will need to extend the lead on the tester or use a voltmeter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

Okay, so something interesting has happened. I was testing the ground for the taillights and noticed that one of the lights on the back of the vehicle switched to functioning as a brake light when the brake is depressed. So now the top bar and the passenger side bottom light is functioning as a brake light. The actual brake lights are still only functional as turn and hazard lights. Does this mean I need to change the connectors?