After replacing the calipers on my car and bled the brakes by hand, the brake pedal went to the floor?

Hi,

When you bleed brakes, start at the wheel furthest away from the brake reservoir (right rear). Then go left rear, right front, and then left front (closest to the reservoir).

Here is a link that explains how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Keep in mind, if the brake pedal goes to the floor, the master cylinder may have been damaged. Over time, corrosion accumulates in the plunger bore. In the area that the pedal travels, it stays clean. If the pedal goes to the floor, it can damage the plunger because of the corrosion in the area not normally traveled by the plungers.

Try the bleed I mentioned below. Also, let me know if you get any brake pedal if you pump the brakes a few times.

Let me know.

Joe

Thanks, I've been taught wrong!

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. Let me know how things work out for you or if I can help in any way. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

Will do.

I bled brakes starting from back and yep big air bubble. If the brakes haddent been bled correctly can that cause the caliper piston to not pull the brake back properly? Like make the piston be locked applying pressure? If so if I push the piston back and rebleed will they function properly? Thanks

Hi,

Sorry for the delay. No, the air won't cause that to happen. It could be a few things. Here is what I need you to try.

Have a helper pump the brake so the affected caliper won't release. Then, open the bleeder to see if the caliper releases. If it does, replace the rubber brake hose on that caliper. If it still doesn't release, either the caliper piston is stuck or the slide pins or brake pads are stuck. Try that and let me know the results. Once I know what you find, I can further direct you.

Take care,

joe

Cool thanks I just changed the calipers so maybe not that, but I will check the pins as I have the lube for them. The hose that goes from the caliper to the metal brake line, right?

Also, I don't get the first sentence. If I release the bleeder that should make the piston pull back? So, have a helper push the brake down and when it's all the way down then release the bleeder and the piston is supposed to retract right? Also lube up the pins. The rubber hose doesn't come with the caliper that might be good to replace anyways. Thanks again. I will hit you up if I have any more questions and let you know if it worked.

Hi,

If the rubber hose is preventing the return of brake fluid to the master cylinder, opening the bleeder will allow the brake to release. Basically, you are providing a different route for the fluid to release. If it doesn't release, then it could be one of the other things I mentioned.

Let me know. Hang in there. We'll get it fixed.

Take care,

Joe

Okay, so I got the line and replaced it. Also pushed the brake while caliper was off rotor, and it pushed put yay! It did not, however, pull back in. Also rebleed brakes after replacing line and still not pulling back. I've replaced this specific caliper 3 times since Nov 2023 and it's done the same thing every time. Locks up gets whole tire hot just a mess. I've replaced the wheel hub assembly last time I did this as well. I've read that there might be air in the abs solenoid and I need someone with a special tool to release the air in the system. Does that make any sense or apply to a car this old?

Hi,

If you replaced the hose and the brake applies but doesn't release, have you inspected all steel hoses? Also, does the caliper release when you open the bleeder?

As far as the caliper springing back when the pedal is released, that isn't what happens. Pressure is released from the brake pads. You won't see them moving back.

Let me know. As far as the bleed procedure is concerned, there isn't an automated bleed for this vehicle. Also, if there was air in the system, it wouldn't cause the caliper to hang up. It would likely cause a spongy brake pedal.

Do me a favor. Send me a pic of the caliper in question. Also, due to the complexity of the fluid path within the rear integral parking brake calipers, it is necessary to press and release the parking brake during the bleed procedure. Once the rear caliper is bled manually and the bleeder tight, it is recommended actuating the parking brake five times.

Let me know.

Joe

Nope I didn't do that with the parking brake. I followed your link on bleeding starting from caliper farthest from rez to closest. I had a helper pressing brake. Now that I changed the brake line when I was rebleeding brake fluid would come out of said caliper but as a drizzle not a jet like normal. When I tested the piston it was completely off the rotor. Then screwed it back in all the way installed and pushed brakes and it locked no wheel rotation nothing. No pressure released. I've had 2 of these same cars and the rear calipers have always been a pain.
However do you have a link for how to bleed the ebrake? I had no clue about that at all. I'll send I pic when I get home tomorrow. What part of the caliper do you want to see?

Hi,

I attached the directions below from my manual. Note that it does indicate using a scan tool, but that is if the HCU was replaced.

I hope this helps. Let me know.

Joe

See pics below. Please ignore the next to the last pic. That was accidentally added, and I can't delete it.

So I need a special tool to be able to do this? Also, some of the directions are repeated. Is it supposed to be done twice on the rear brakes?

Also pic #7 says to close the bleeder valve then pump the parking brake until clear bubble free fluid comes out then close valve again. When do I open valve before I pump ebrake? Am I supposed to bleed as normal close bleeder, then immediately open same bleeder to pump the ebrake? Do I need to close bleeder valve between pumping brake and pumping ebrake if so what's the reason? Or is that just weird wording I'm just making sure I'm doing it properly thanks. Also, caliper does push out and I was able to twist back in with c-clamp and channel locks. Still doesn't release so want to make sure I get this ebrake bled correctly.

Hi,

After you bleed from the hydraulics, close the bleeder. Then, follow the park brake directions. Repeat the hydraulic procedure to see if there is air. If not, you're done. If there is, continue that process until no more air is present.

Joe

Cool thanks. So got a new caliper since it was under warranty. Hopefully going through this complete bleeding will solve my issues. Will let you know how it goes.

So new caliper did the bleeding of the system and the ebrake and it still not releasing enough. It releases a little but still restricts the wheel turning. I don't know what to do at this point.

Hi,

According to the directions, you may have to perform the procedure more than once. Did you try a couple of times?


Joe

Sigh no I didn't do a couple of times. That said it has seemed to release a little but still need leverage to spin wheel. I'll do a couple more times thanks.

Hi,

I'm so sorry. I know it can be a pain. If you have a chance, let me know how things turn out for you.

Also, were you able to install the new pads easily? I know I've been seeing pads that are physically too thick to fit loosely. It's just a thought.

Let me know.

Joe

These are the same pads but now that you mention it possible. We recently went from the standard $19.99 brake pads from AZ to the ceramic which are much thicker. Could it be these are just a bit too big? The caliper released a little pressure but not enough, hopefully a few more bleeds. Do you know of any safe point to jack up the whole front and/or back? Jacking up individual tires at a time is a pita with a scissor jack rather use my 5 to hydraulic floor jack thanks. I'll let you know how it works out.

There isn't any place to lift it unless you have a rack. I guess you could lift one side at a time, and put a safety stand under one side at a time. Other than that, I'm not sure what to tell you.

Don't laugh. I've had brake pads that are too thick. I sand them down on the concrete floor to eliminate the issue until they fit properly. I clean them up with brake clean after that, but it does work.

Let me know how things work out for you. Also, the pads I'm referring to also came from AZ. It doesn't happen often, but it has happened.

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, that's what I have been doing. It makes bleeding the brakes take 30 mins instead of 5. Remember when you could lie on the ground and reach the bleeder valves without having to jack up car? I miss common sense building instead of trying to make it harder to work on yourself. I'll try concrete sanding the pads if multiple bleedings don't work.

Hi,

Sounds like a plan. If you have a chance, let me know how things work out for you.

Take care,

Joe

Okay, I know this took a while, but it worked thanks! Had car up on 4 5-ton jackstands and wind and rain came through. I woke up in the morning with the car sitting on the ground with no tires. One jack stand held so I had a jack point at least. I bled the brakes and e brake 4 times, and the 4th time noticed there were no air bubbles, but the fluid barely came through the bleeder, I had a hose on so I could watch bubbles. The 5th time through the cycle that rear caliper pushed a bunch of fluid through like it normally should! Guess what caliper is working properly! Thanks for the help, I'm not sure if clog in line or the eBrake not being bleed correctly. So that part of car is fixed thanks again!

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