bondo to fix rusted dent

Hi,

To be honest, it looks like you did a good job. As far as using bondo, you always want to use as little as possible. When you put a lot on, it is more pron to crack. However, since the dent wasn't too big in diameter, you should be fine.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

To echo Joe, it looks pretty good for not being a bodyman. The small imperfection is likely due to sanding, The hood has a rounded profile in that area. When you filled in the ding with the bondo it was softer than the metal. That means it made a flatter area because of the softer bondo sanding away while the metal was acting as a bridge. That is one of those things you only get used to with a lot of practice.
Congratulations.

If I were to hammer out the dent from the inside of the hood, will that do anything to the imperfection and fix it a little?

Not at this point. You do all metalwork prior to anything else. If you try moving the metal now the repair you have done will fail as the bondo will not bend with the metal, it will simply pop free and you would need to start over.
Plus with that being a double layer hood you would need to use something like a slapper bar and dolly to get between the layers and move the steel.

oh so, it would have been a professional job not a DIY job. So for me it was the right choice how I did it.
How about the dent remover tool that pops out dents. Would that have worked?

Should I use a rubbing compound and polisher to bring the shine out?

For a DIY job you did better than a lot of the repairs I have seen over the years. Removing a dent like that requires quite a bit of work. The reason is that the metal is severely stretched to form the dent that deep. Once stretched like that it is very difficult to shrink it all back into place. To do that repair with minimal filler would require that the dent be beat out until it was in effect reversed. Then you would work the steel to shrink it back to the original shape. Not something you want to do without a bunch of practice. Plus that would be reserved for a car where a replacement panel would not be available or replacement could hurt the cars value. In my old shop I would likely have used a spotter gun to lift it as much as possible, then filled it or just replaced the hood, a new replacement for that van is about $100.00. Then you would scuff it, shoot on the color and clear and ship it.

I would wait on the cut and buff a bit, let the paint get cured as much as it can. Then test to see if you can polish it.

So wait a few months before adding the rubber compound and polish?

I would wait a few weeks at least. If you had used regular automotive paints then you could do it sooner, being these are spray can items I'd wait a bit to give them a better chance.

if I oversprayed an area, how can I fix this, by wet sanding with 1500 to 2000 grit sandpaper?

Hi,

You can buff it with a very fine grit polishing compound. That should remove it. Or, if you want to wet sand with 2000 until the shine is gone, that will work too, but it will require you to buff the color and smoothness back to the finish. Most times, polishing compound and a buffer will do it. If you plan to wet sand and buff, don't use anything more aggressive than 1500. It may take a bit longer, but it will be much easier to bring back the finish you want.

Take care and let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Can I do that now considering I just finished clear coating it a few days ago?

It should be done after about 24 hours. The longer you wait from that point, the harder it is to do. However, you should give it at least one full day.

Joe