My engine is stalling at idle can you help me please?

Hi,

There are a few things that can cause what you described. First, I think it's a good idea to check for engine vacuum leaks. Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Next, low fuel pressure can be a concern as well as things such as a partially plugged catalytic converter.

Has the check engine light turned on and stayed on with the engine running? If it has, before doing anything more, scan the CAN bus system on the vehicle. CAN stands for computer area network. Basically, all of the modules / computers in the vehicle are tied together via this network. This is the way of the future.

Here is a video that shows how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Let me know. Also, let me know if other than the bogging and stalling at a stop, there are additional symptoms. For example, you smell fuel, black smoke from the exhaust, it's running hotter than normal. Anything you can think of that will help. Also, if you have a live data scan tool, hook it up and let me know the short term fuel trims.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

check engine light has been on for for a few months now, it’s my oxygen sensors bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, heat malfunction. it’s never ran any differently with the light being on. i installed an AFE stage 2 cold air intake on it about 2 months ago. i personally don’t have any scanners but i can probably get one tomorrow and try it out. don’t smell any fuel, little bit of black residue on my tailpipe lately. i replaced the upper intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket today as well.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Just to add my 2 cents. I would suggest performing a fuel pressure test.You might have a weak or failing pump not providing enough pressure under load or acceleration.If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

The correct fuel pressure specification for you truck is 51-62 PSI. Hope the helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Okay.So I just bought this truck with a 5.4l triton. It ran amazing when I bought it but I haven't made a payment yet and already have had some issues with it. Randomly when I put it into drive (only drive does this) it will bog down and want to stall out (let me add it has stalled out doing this multiple times now) it starts up beautifully. It idles smooth but for some reason it wants to bog down sometimes. When I say sometimes i mean I can put it into park then into drive and it be fine three times in a row but then on the fourth it'll want to stall out. Some times if I were to put it into second my rpm's fluctuate lightly. It sometimes wants to bog down when I turn the steering wheel and am going slow and sometimes does a ruff bog when I come to a stop. I replaced both VCT solenoids. I tried a new throttle body in case it was my TPS. I added fuel cleaner to the tank of gas I have now.i cleaned my mas. I hear a clicking noise from what I think to be my fuel injectors maybe. I noticed I really only have this issue when I have a cold engine like it sat all night or sat all day while I'm at work. From time to time my first three gears that shift when I drive have a bit of a juke to them like a struggle. No check engine lights no stored codes. I have a obd2 checker (jethax) any ideas? I would like to add other than this the truck runs like a Cadillac. which is what's so frustrating. Once she's warm or I cycle from drive to park a couple times and maybe not gun it but speed through that random ruff shift from a dead stop it's like a cloud.

One thing I can say to check is the evaporative system purge valve, make sure it's not stuck open. These are notorious for sticking and I have several customers that keep an extra one in their glove box. Just disconnect the electrical connector and make sure that vacuum is available at only one of the ports. If vacuum is available on the fuel tank side, you have a stuck valve. This is just one possibility amongst many, but there was also a PCM reprogram for similar issues but there is no guarantee that it will completely resolve your issues.

Is the PCM a dealer only part? Was there a recall for it or was it just an adjustment made through programming?

There are updates they need to be done which can solve your issue. But I noticed you cleaned the MAF which only works sometimes. I would try a new MAF OEM. Here is a guide to help walk you through and diagrams below to show you on your truck:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-mass-air-flow-sensor-maf

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Yes, there is an update for the PCM which can be done at a dealer or a subscribing independent shop, and as Ken noted, make sure the maf sensor is clean as well.

While driving I pushed clutch in to downshift and stop. Started right up but did it again every time I stopped accelerating. No check engine light or other lights on dash. Asked a few mechanics they said it could be an idle air control sensor. My vehicle does not have on on throttle body, only throttle position sensor. Any help would be great.

I would think you would have a diagnostic trouble code if the actuator was causing the problem. Tell me, have you checked for engine vacuum leaks? That is where I would start. Here is a link that shows how it's done. Do this and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know. Also, let me know if you have a live data scanner.

Joe

I checked all vacuum lines using this method. Does not appear to be any leaks. No I don't have a live data scanner. Any other ideas.

Hi,

Without a scan tool, I can't be 100% sure. However, I have a feeling it deals with the throttle control actuator. Although this vehicle doesn't have a separate IAC valve, it has one as part of the throttle control actuator. There is also a throttle control module that can be causing issues. However, I don't know which way to point you without a code. I guess it would be wise to check all connectors on the throttle body to make sure they are tight, not corroded, and none of the wires in the connector are pushed in and not making a good connection. Also, confirm there is no damage to the wiring.

The throttle body has only one connection to the throttle position sensor. I have replaced that and totally cleaned throttle body. Everything is working fine now. Also, idle is more stable than it was before this issue. Not sure if this was the right fix but it worked, for now. Thank you for your input. I truly appreciated it.

You are very welcome and I'm glad that took care of the problem. If you have questions or need anything in the future, let us know.

Take care,
Joe

Truck shuts off when put in reverse or drive. Will idle fine in park.

Hi,

When you place it in gear, does the vehicle jump forward or backwards? Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running?

If you haven't, I would suggest scanning the can-bus system. CAN stands for controller area network. This ties all the computers and modules together. It should pick up on a problem if it is related to any of the systems.

Here is a video that shows how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

If it's possible, record what is happening and upload it for me to see. Also, let me know as much as you can. For example, what is the engine idle speed before you place it in gear? Have you checked for anything such as engine vacuum leaks?

Let me know.

Joe

My engine (5.4l Triton) doesn’t want to run when in drive or reverse when it is warmed up. I just changed the oil in it and an hour after that when I was driving, it kept trying to shut off. When I put it back in park and rev it, it goes back to a perfect idle. But when I put it back in drive it goes to this terrible rough idle then shuts off.

If all this happened after an oil change then we need to check the oil level and what type of oil you used.

You have a variable valve timing system. So this means there is an actuator that uses oil pressure to alter the cam timing to match driving conditions. They return to what is called lock pin when in park so that would make sense why it runs fine in park.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-camshaft-variable-valve-timing-works

I attached info below as well for this system. Please let us know what oil you used and we can go from there. Thanks

I used 5w-20 motor oil which is what it calls for. And I put in 7 quarts which is also what it calls for. Is that correct?

That is exactly correct. So then I can only think this is a coincidence.

So when this cuts off we need to monitor the fuel pressure when it does it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let's start with this and go from there. This is the most likely cause but if that checks out then we need to suspect the torque converter may be locked up.

Does it stall every time you put it in gear or can you keep it running it just runs poorly?

Okay, I’ll test my fuel pressure. Also about 2 weeks before this my transmission seal in the front went out while I was driving and it leaked all the transmission fluid out. Do you think that could have made my torque converter go out?

Ok I’ll test my fuel pressure. Also about 2 weeks before this my transmission seal in the front went out while I was driving and it leaked all the transmission fluid out. Do you think that could have made my torque converter go out?

So the idea with a torque converter is that they are applying when they should not and so they stall the engine just like letting the clutch out on a manual with low RPM.

So if it is stalling like that, where it just drops in RPM and stalls then that could be the issue. However, normally torque converter issues will happen after they are locked up. So when you get on the highway and then get off an exit, it will not disengage and stall the engine.

There could be an issue with the valve body or solenoid that when the fluid gets hot, it leaks and applies the converter and stalls the engine.

While it would be a new situation of this issue on me, it is still something that we can't discount.

I would start with the fuel pressure and go from there.

As I was approaching a red light and slowing down the engine completely shut off. My headlights remained on and my instrument cluster was still lit up. All the extra lights on my instrument cluster came on (wrench, check engine, oil....etc). I pulled over and re-started the truck immediately like as if there was no problem. It has been two days now and the truck as been running fine. I did a diagnostics check and came up with the following two codes : P2104: Throttle actuator control system forced idol. P2112: Throttle actuator control system stuck closed. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help!

Hello it sounds like the throttle bore is dirt and nees service here is a guide to help fix the issue

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down these guides and report back.

Okay, I’ll start with the fuel pressure. I looked for that valve thing where I hook a pressure gauge but could not find it on the fuel rail.

Do I need to remove the throttle body to clean the throttle plate and iac hole? Where is the iac hole located? Thanks!

You are correct. Your engine does not have a valve for this. So that means you need use the tool kit that is supplied below. Sorry I didn't give this prior but most all Ford's have this valve on the rail but yours doesn't.

o you don't need to remove it just take the air duct off to reach it and open it with your finger. push on the bottom side normally. the iac hole is kind of oblong you'll see it . make sure to get all the gunk out then get puter reset and see if code comes back. if not you are good if it does then you need further investigation by a pro.

These trucks are known to have this issue. If yours is electronic then you may need a new throttle body if cleaning it doesn't help. There may even be a PCM update to go along with this.

Ok thanks for the help guys! the cleaning fixed it I love this site

RPM's fluctuate at a stoplight and when I give it gas it stalls out and have to place it back in park and started again. It starts good and will stall out 5 minutes later. I have a code p0220 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch b circuit and a P0010 a camshaft position actuator circuit/open bank 1.

We have a video that should fix the throttle issue and stalling p0220.

https://youtu.be/6fWYjfU9UV8

for the P0010 a camshaft position actuator circuit/open bank 1 9 times out of 10 it's the actuator that needs to be replaced. here is the location so you can check it out:

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Okay, I didn't see the trouble code before I posted a response, anyways the TP sensor code on this particular year model has been a faulty throttle position sensor, I say that because I've replaced over a hundred of them over the years at my dealer. The code for the camshaft actuator, replace it!

I changed fuel injectors and decided I would check spark plugs to and broke a retaining bolt on the coil pack, but couldn't get the bolt out. so I put it all back together and now it's running rough and when it idles it will idle up and down for a few seconds then shuts off.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, I have a feeling that you may have disconnected an engine vacuum hose or one got damaged. The first thing I suggest is to check for engine vacuum leaks.

Here is a link that shows how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next, were you able to secure the coil pack that you had difficulty with? Is the check engine light staying on with the engine running? If it is, you should scan the computer for codes. Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will lend or rent one to you.

Start with those couple checks and let me know what you find. Also, if you could let me know why the injectors were replaced, it may be helpful.

Take care,
Joe

Replaced fuel pump and filter. My vehicle stalls occasionally at idle or low speed then the vehicle restarts right away.

This sound similar.


This may not be the answer, but you can easily rule it out! This will sort of guide you to what you have to do, it is really easy to do!

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

My wife's is on the top and has two bolts. Our Escape would idle low, then it got to point it would die when you stopped.

Revving and holding brake was only way to keep it running.

Took it to fellow R/C airplane pilot, he doubles as a S.C. State Highway Department mechanic. When I got to his house, he was repairing a tractor.

Told him my sob story. Escape was still barely running, I raised the hood.

He said, (and I quote)."It could be the idle air control (IAC)", as he pointed to it, and emphasized it with a sharp rap using the wrench in his hand.

It straightened right up, and ran good!

That was a 15/16 Craftsman wrench, box end, kind of a medium rap.

We removed and cleaned it, it may have gone on being Fine, for a lot longer.

Since it was my wife's, I took no chances, with my well-being. Yes, I visited parts store and replaced it, figured it had 100,000 miles on it, and constantly was a moving part, replacement of this component, was just preventative maintenance in my eyes.

Hope this helps.

Hope I am dead on! Cleaning would be free! (less a can of throttle body cleaner), and at least maybe eliminate this factor out of the equation. You can go on and replace it later, if you have the same feelings about it as I did. It is not really expensive.

Please let me know how this goes.

The Medic

Thanks. I will check it out let you know.

Hey,

Here is a guide that might help also.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Let me know what you find.

Best, Ken