1990 BMW 735

1990 BMW 735
197,000 MILES • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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JACKX1962
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hello.. i was wondering what would cause the water not to cerculate thru the radiator.. i just changed the thermastat. all the hose. everything gets hot exept the radiator.. what would you recomend?

thankyou john
Apr 9, 2009 at 9:25 AM
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MHPAUTOS
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HI there,

get the radiator cleaned & flow tested, it may be part blocked and restricting flow, have you bleed the system of all the air, including the heater?

mark (mhpautos)
Apr 9, 2009 at 9:28 AM
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JACKX1962
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i flushed the system it is still doing it.. i am thinking it is the waterpump because everything gets hot exept the radiator and the lower hose.. and even the hose going from the waterpump to the heater core.. could this be the trouble. and how would you bleed it from air?
Apr 9, 2009 at 11:41 AM
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DOCHAGERTY
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Marks' suggestion is correct and if you have checked the bypass line that runs from the expansion tank to the radiator along the left side of the car for blockage then you should proceed with the inspection of the remaining componants in the cooling system. If the bypass line is blocked it will build pressure in the system and block coolant flow.
Apr 9, 2009 at 11:45 AM
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JACKX1962
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i checked that hose when i diconected it . it was alittle clogged . i dont know how but how do i bleed the system. but why would the radiator stay cold the lower hose is cold and the top hose is really hot
Apr 9, 2009 at 4:41 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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The radiator may be full of "muck" (for lack of a technical term) and when the deposits form on the inside of the radiator, they block thermal conductivity. If this is the case, it may call for replacement of the radiator. To bleed the cooling system, open the screw on top of the thermostat housing and fill the system until there is a steady stream from the pee hole, then close the screw and top off the coolant, start the car and turn the heater to hot and idle the engine until operating temperature is achieved. let cool and recheck coolant level.
Apr 13, 2009 at 12:33 PM
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JACKX1962
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ok now that i have connected my battery back up.. my radio is asking for a code how do i get this..
Apr 15, 2009 at 1:23 PM
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MHPAUTOS
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Hi there,

if you don''t have the code in your radio hand book or owners manual, your BMW dealer will be able to advise the number, you will have to give them the VIN number, thats is how it works here in Aust. If its different there the Doc will pick up on this and let you know.

Mark (mhpautos)
Apr 15, 2009 at 5:24 PM
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JACKX1962
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yes it is different here they want me to bring it in and charge me 150.00 .. i was wondering if there is an easier way..
Apr 15, 2009 at 8:10 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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Post the serial number and I will try to get your code. BTW, thanks Mark.
Apr 15, 2009 at 11:49 PM
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JACKX1962
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here is the vin # WBAGC431XLDC2666O that you for your help
Apr 16, 2009 at 7:32 AM
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DOCHAGERTY
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I need the serial number from the back of the radio.
Apr 16, 2009 at 1:35 PM
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JACKX1962
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how do you take the radio out.. i dont have a removal tool.. i am new to the bmw world..
Apr 16, 2009 at 8:35 PM
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JACKX1962
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i will take out the radio and post the serial number
Apr 19, 2009 at 8:28 PM
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JACKX1962
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oh and i bleed the system and checked the bypass it worked thanks for your help on that..
Apr 19, 2009 at 8:30 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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It takes a special tool or a small Allen wrench. The flaps at the sides open up and expose the screw heads.
Apr 19, 2009 at 8:31 PM
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JACKX1962
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i got the radio out.. here are all the numbers on the back BMW model ke-83 fccidajd4dike-83zbm spec# kh-us pkc0164797 i hope this helps
Apr 24, 2009 at 1:48 PM
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JACKX1962
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i got the radio out.. here are all the numbers on the back BMW model ke-83 fccidajd4dike-83zbm spec# kh-us pkc0164797 i hope this helps
Apr 27, 2009 at 10:55 AM
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DOCHAGERTY
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I am still working on it, back soon.
Apr 27, 2009 at 11:02 AM
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JACKX1962
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how did you make out with the code.. and also i just found out my oil pan gasket leaks.. how hard is it to change this? does it mean lifting the motor?
Apr 29, 2009 at 5:53 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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It requires some special equipment and is often quite messy. Good on ya if you want to take it on, I would start with getting it CLEAN, nothing worse than working on a greasy, oily mess.
Apr 30, 2009 at 11:26 AM
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JACKX1962
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so i am guessing the motor needs to be lifted..
Apr 30, 2009 at 12:23 PM
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JACKX1962
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so i was reading and i can take off the lower cross member to take off the oil pan.. do you still have to hold the motor up? i am just trying all the facts before i get into it..
Apr 30, 2009 at 3:13 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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Yeah, you want to hold the motor/tranny, and the sub frame drops out the bottom enough to get to the pan. Also the P/S pump/ alternator have to come loose and the bracket removed and the A/C pump and the bracket need to move out of the way.
May 1, 2009 at 12:29 AM
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JACKX1962
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how did you make out getting the code?
May 1, 2009 at 8:23 AM
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DOCHAGERTY
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I think it is 1-4-4-3-5
May 2, 2009 at 9:33 AM
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JACKX1962
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thankyou i will try it.. do you know where the tranny mounts are on this..
May 2, 2009 at 11:00 AM
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JACKX1962
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the code did not work.. i put it in the radio beeped but nothing happened..
May 2, 2009 at 12:36 PM
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JACKX1962
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i got the radio to work the code was 41264 i have a question how do i know if i have an auto leveling system? the back sits low and i was going to replace the shocks and he asked me if it had this system.. i dont know..
May 6, 2009 at 7:14 PM
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JACKX1962
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how do you get the door chimes and the alarm on for when you leave your headlights to work.. and also what does it mean when i am doing 40 mile per hr and hit the brakes the front end shakes...
Jun 5, 2009 at 8:58 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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Auto leveling is identified by visually inspecting the rear shocks, look for a hydraulic line coming from the shocks to a black accumulator, if there you have self leveling.
Jun 6, 2009 at 8:50 AM
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JACKX1962
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is it possable to change that system to a regular shock and is it hard to convert?
Jun 6, 2009 at 9:39 AM
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DOCHAGERTY
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The question about the front end shake is you need to replace the thrust arm bushings, and the rear shocks can be swapped out for non self leveling, call (619)444-2290 for the replacements, talk to John or Sean. The hoses going from the accumulators to the shocks get plugged because you cannot remove the hydraulic part, you just abandon it in place. The reason is the power steering pump is a tandem pump, part of it runs the power steering, part of it runs the self leveling, and I just cap it off at the "bomb" (accumulator)
Jun 9, 2009 at 8:54 AM
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JACKX1962
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thankyou
Jun 9, 2009 at 8:59 AM
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STRAILER
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have you seen this one?

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/1996_2005_bmw_vw_audi_water_pump_failure.htm

does this help?
Jun 9, 2009 at 5:19 PM
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JACKX1962
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yes thankyou i change the waterpump 100% better
Jun 9, 2009 at 6:59 PM
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JACKX1962
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i have 2 questions on the computer readout on the dash it says Break cercuit Lt what does that mean and also i am going to install new control arms with the thrust bearing and balljoint installed.. is there speacial tools for this.. i am going to replace both sides..
Jun 11, 2009 at 7:01 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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The brake issue will require replacement of the brake light switch. The tool for the front arms is commercially available. Baum tool or Hazet should be able to supply the need, or Snap-on for too much $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Jun 11, 2009 at 11:46 PM
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JACKX1962
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would it be the upper or lower arms?
Jun 14, 2009 at 3:47 PM
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DOCHAGERTY
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The lower ones.
Jun 14, 2009 at 9:12 PM
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JACKX1962
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hello my drivers door when unlocking you have to lift the handle to get it to unlock is this comon in this car and also when i lock it the passenger door dont lock.. does this mean the actuators are no good..
Jun 19, 2009 at 6:47 AM