No starter operation - Engine not cranking over?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Honestly, it sounds like a bad connection at the battery itself. Double check to make sure everything is clean and tight. I know the battery is new, so the terminals on it are clean. However, remove the terminals and check to make sure where they slide over the battery's terminals, there isn't dirt or corrosion. Also, check to make sure the cables are in good shape. Also, confirm that the ground from the battery to the engine block is clean and tight.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

As far as the readings, you are correct. They sound perfect.

Let me know.

Joe, checked connections, and had battery tested just to make sure, everything is fine there. new note is that the car now will no longer start even with a jump.
Maybe an issue with the starter?
I am at a loss for anything else atm.

Hi again:

It could be a few things. Check the main fuses in the power distribution box under the hood. Fuse 7 is for the starter solenoid. Here is a link that shows how to check fuses and for power at the fuse:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Next, confirm the starter relay is good. It is in the power distribution box also. It should indicate on the lid of the PDB which is the starter relay. I attached a picture of the section of the box you are looking for. Also, you have two choices. Switch the starter relay with a different one from the box that has the same part number, or you can test the relay itself. Here are directions for testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Now, if everything checks good with those things, then the starter should be tested. Here are directions explaining how to check the starter. It will have you test for power at the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. The large (heavy gauge from battery) is hot all the time. The smaller only gets power when the key is in the start position. If it does get power and the main supply (heaver wire) has battery voltage, then the starter is bad. Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

To be honest, I have a feeling it is either the relay or the starter itself. More than likely, the starter, but you need to confirm that via these tests.

Please feel free to let me know if you have other questions or need help.

Joe

I did some front end work that required me to unplug the two fuse boxes and remove the battery. When I put everything back together the vehicle will not start and it will still roll freely when in park.

Hello,

Let start by checking for power at fuse #22, but it sounds like one of the connectors is not all the way together. Can you please recheck it here are the transmission wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and the transmission control relay.

Check out the wiring and fuse panel diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

It ended up being a wire going to the starter. The Park issue was the transfer case was in neutral. Do not know how that happened.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken

I had just returned from driving to the park turned the key off and then tried to restart. The vehicle would not turn over. The vehicle drove fine to the park and back. There was gas in the tank, oil was good, tried removing the black cable and reattaching it to the battery, tried to turn the key off to on several times, tried starting from neutral. all had the same result the car will not turn over.

Good evening,

Is the theft or security light on? It should go off after 10 seconds with the key on.

Do you have a test light or voltmeter to do some testing?

Roy

no there is no security light and I do not have a voltmeter.

Okay, if you can get one, we can do some checks. There is a module that is the fuse box that sends voltage to the starter to start but it will only do it when it sees the correct reading from the park/neutral switch.

Roy

I recently bought a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it had quite a bit of negative battery post corrosion and the terminal connector was splitting apart. Last night I took the old connector off, cleaned the battery posts (both) with battery cleaner, used a batter post brush and cleaned both posts and the positive cable connector (which is in great shape). After putting it together, tightening everything down and spraying some battery protectant on it, it decides not to start. I put my multimeter on it and its giving me about 13.80 volts. I've taken the negative connector off, cleaned the bare wires again made sure that the clamp was tight on the wires and tightened everything down again. I've done this numerous times on other vehicles without any issue - it's pretty straight forward DiY. Any ideas? Why would the Jeep start with all that corrosion and bad clamp, and not start after the cleanup and repair? Thank you for your help!

It may have a theft deterrent system that was activated when the battery was disconnected. Try locking the doors and opening then from the driver's door with the key. If that door doesn't work, try the same thing with the tail gate.

my jeep gives me two messeges check codes and then trans over
Temp very briefly, my battery has 720 cca and its new. New alternator

try resetting security system if no manual look online

My car will not still not start all the time after fixing the key, the starter, and a sensor in the shifter - they said that tells if you are in park so the car will start. Each time I brought it in they symtoms were the same - I turn the key all the dash lights light up and the radio goes on but absolutely no sound like it wants to start at all.

Could be a security issue if not could be one of the following. The starter motor, starter relay,transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

wife was driving when overheat transmission message came on and then started running badly. I found bad number five coil and then ran good parked it and then would not crank put new starter cause it was going bad. also, checked relay good so put in new battery still would not crank. so I checked relay again and found when turned to start it was not energizing relay so changed ignition switch that did not work either. more information; when put key to run all warning lights come on and do not go off. plus tire pressure one flashes and a small red one on other side of dash also flashes. could computer be stopping it from turning over?

Hello,

Yes the computer can be causing all of these issues, but lets check some things first. Please check the battery by load testing it at an auto parts store, they can test it for free. Next make sure the battery ground cable is clean and tight at the body and engine.

Next read the codes to see what comes up which can point us in the right direction.

Here is a guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find. :)

Cheers, Ken

While trying to replace a stereo in my car, I accidentally touched two wires coming from the plug together and ever since then my car won’t start. I’ve replaced the starter (for some reason it failed the test so I thought that was the problem) and tested the battery, which is good. I can’t seem to figure out the issue. I’ve also checked all fuses and none are blown.

Hi,

I need you to check 3 fuses for me. I attached two pics below and am not sure how they would have blown, but I'm not sure which wires touched. Check these and let me know what you find. In the first pic, the arrow shows which wire is going to the starter solenoid (S Terminal). It should only have power when the key is in the start position. If you have a helper, see if there is power to that wire at the starter when the key is in the start position.

Let me know what you find.

Here are a few links you may or may not need. Just adding them in case.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know if this helps and what you find.

Joe