Battery goes dead?

Check the charging system yourself. Use an inexpensive digital voltmeter to measure the battery voltage while the engine is running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If that's what you find, it means it's working sufficiently to do the second half of the test, but that requires a professional load tester. If the voltage is okay, either the battery is defective or there's a drain on it. This guide can help us find the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thank you, I think you're right about the drain. We took it to a shop and they said my light in my trunk was left on even when the trunk was shut. So he turned it off permananetly. I just don't see how it takes 6 months for the battery to die if the trunk light was left on the entire time. Wouldn't it be sooner?

Depends on the size of the bulb. A small 194 "peanut" bulb draws around half an amp, and the larger "acorn" bulb draws about 3/4 amp. That may be not enough to kill a good battery overnight. If you had a starting problem that required lots of engine cranking, you would have found the battery might crank the engine for only a total of 60 seconds instead of three or four minutes. With fuel injection today, most engines start with only two or three seconds of cranking. It doesn't take much of a battery to do that.

I bought a aux adapter for my car so I can play music and Sirus radio as the 2007 car does not have a aux plug area. Not plugging the adapter in the cigarette plug outlet the car sounded normal but once the adapter was plugged into the cigarette plug area the car sound was a little different. Yesterday it worked fine and then when I was off work that night the battery was completely dead. (Key button wont unlock door, no door noise, no lights on dash board, car won't start). Would you have any idea if it's just the battery completely drained or something else perhaps? If it's the battery would you know how to tell which battery I would need specifically for it?

This sounds like the adapter that you plugged in could have caused the drain. A lot of things that you plug in to the outlet like that do drain the battery. It is possible that the battery was just ready to be replaced and this pushed it over the edge but I would suggest replacing the battery and then leaving the adapter unplugged when you are not using it. Then if the battery does not drain again then you know this was the issue.

Here is a link to the types of batteries that you need. You can buy these types of batteries from any parts store, so I would shop around a little bit for the best price.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2007,corolla,1.8l+l4,1434445,electrical,battery,2476

Also, you can stop by a parts store and get a free battery test just to make sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Let me know if you have questions. Thanks.

1. 2002 toyota corolla
2. Current odometer reading (approx): 105000
3. Automatic Transmission
4. No Strange sounds or smells.
5. No Fluid leaks.
6. Just had the battery "drained" to reset the warning lights & the rotors were cut & new front & back brakes.

After being worked on, the car made a different sound upon start up as if it was taking extra effort to start the car. This persisted for 4 days w/ every start. Then, one morning car would not start. Battery was tested and said to be OK. Starter OK. Car was jumped, and ran fine all night (being re-started several times throughout errands). Then this morning, car did not start. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[quote:28c281b878="laydirain"]1. 2002 toyota corolla
2. Current odometer reading (approx): 105000
3. Automatic Transmission
4. No Strange sounds or smells.
5. No Fluid leaks.
6. Just had the battery "drained" to reset the warning lights & the rotors were cut & new front & back brakes.

After being worked on, the car made a different sound upon start up as if it was taking extra effort to start the car. This persisted for 4 days w/ every start. Then, one morning car would not start. Battery was tested and said to be OK. Starter OK. Car was jumped, and ran fine all night (being re-started several times throughout errands). Then this morning, car did not start. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.[/quote:28c281b878]

Hello !

Check your alternator (bench test it) for correct charging rate..


let us know!

hey - thanks. alternator is good. tested for parasytic load - I'm not sure exactly what was found; there was a load coming from the dome light, radio, and clock, but it's been suggested that i get a new battery as it might be a weak battery that can't handle that load?

[quote="fisherman"][quote:37b1657218="laydirain"]
Hello !
Check your alternator (bench test it) for correct charging rate..
let us know![/quote:37b1657218]

Hello !!
Q: How "old" its your battery?

A weak battery can`t hold the charge for a long..

It can "read" 12 volts but the storage capacity could be not good..

Its a good Idea to get a new fresh battery!

Let us Know!

[quote:74648eb497="fisherman"]Hello !!
Q: How "old" its your battery?
A weak battery can`t hold the charge for a long..
It can "read" 12 volts but the storage capacity could be not good..
Its a good Idea to get a new fresh battery!
Let us Know![/quote:74648eb497]

I don't know how old the battery is :o(, but we are still testing for a parasytic load & depending on those results, we are putting a new battery in.

THANKS SO MUCH for all of your help!!!

Anytime !

Good Luck!

I have a draw on the battery. I have narrowed it down to the starting system. I have replaced alternator battery and belt. I disconnected the starter and solenoid still have draw I disconnected ignition switch still have draw. I disconnected the starter relay no draw replaced it and still have draw?

Good afternoon,

How did you do the draw test?

I attached a guide for you to perform a draw test. You measure current, not voltage.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Roy

I used a multi-meter on 10 amps setting. According to what I found the reading is supposed to be 0.02 or less. Mine is 0.22.

Okay, good.

The spec is 50-75 milliamps.

Did you pull the fuses one by one and see if the draw dropped first?

When you pulled the relay, what did the draw drop to?

Roy

Ugh, I put it all back together so I could give you exact readings and now it shows a 0.24 draw with the relay in or out.

Okay, pull each fuse one at a time until the draw drops. That will eliminate the draw to that circuit.

Roy

Clicking sound when trying to start engine. Engine will not turn over. Replaced the alternator 14 months ago and have replaced the battery twice since. Latest battery drained within two months of installation. I have been repeatedly recharging the battery to get this old heap running, but I know this is not the solution. Timing belt seems tight and shows no visible damage. Battery cables are old but seem intact. This car needs to as it for a low income family who needs it to get to work.
Any advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

Refer to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Good evening,

You will need a voltmeter to do some testing.

The first thing you should do is load test the battery to make sure it is not internally shorted.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Then you will need to do a draw test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Disconnect the negative cable and put your voltmeter in line. Red lead to the battery post and black to the cable. Let it sit for about 15 minutes to let the modules go to sleep. Then set the meter to DC amps and measure the current draw. It should be 50-75 milli amps. If you have more, pull the fuses one at a time until the draw drops. that will tell you the circuit that is causing the draw.

Roy

Something is draining my battery, causing my car to kill. I went through all the normal channels, including changing the alternator, battery and terminals. It still died. I next came to the terminal cables. I was thinking there was some corrosion on the positive cable coming from the alternator, so, I bypassed this by using a 10 gauge wire coming straight from the alternator to the battery. When I hooked up a fluke meter, it read between 12-12.5 volts. When I turned on my lights, it dropped to 10, when I turned on the ac, it died.


I'm not sure what else to do.


Thanks.

Only suggestion I have is to hook the Fluke up to battery at most sensitive DC volt setting.

Start pulling fuses until you isolate the circuit.

Also take alt. to autoparts store for bench testing.

When I shut off the car it will drain the battery. I connected a volt meter between the negative cable and the battery post and pulled fuses until the voltage went to zero. The fuse that I pulled was the 100 amp fuse at the fuse box next to the battery positive terminal. Any ideas what this would feed? Discharging of the battery is the only symptom. I remove the fuse evertime I park the vehicle for more than a few hours and it will restart OK. Thanks.

The 100 amp is a main fuse and it is most likely a sub-circuit of it.

Have you pulled all the fuses in the cabin and engine compartment before the 100 amp one?

Go to junkyard and find a 90-92 Corolla or Geo Prizm and pull the two main fuse boxes and the battery + fuse assy, check fuses in them and install (they plug in), see if that solves the problem.

The brake and battery lights are on. Replaced 4 year old battery. The new day and a half-old battery was completely drained this morning. Car started with a jump-start and runs like usual. What is causing the lights to be on and what is draining the battery? Thank you.

Could be the alternator not putting out or a short within the electrical system.. Get the alternator load tested and a parastic drain test on the electrical sysytem.