Bad misfire, code p2311

When you replaced the coils did you replace the plugs as well? What brand coil and plugs did you use?

More than likely this is a faulty coil as the most common issue that causes the insufficient ionization is the spark is just weak.

However, here are a couple guides that will help with misfire info:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

If the engine is misfiring now are there any specific cylinder misfire codes?

If not then we need to run through this code which points to cylinder 4 so let's start with that.

Please run through the info below and let us know what you find with this.

Thanks

Hello Ken, it was six months ago I replaced only one coil not all as I previously thought. It was purchased on eBay probably came from China which would explain most of the problem. But everyone including me is trying to save money. I don't recall the manufacturer. But it was aftermarket I'm sure. The brown wire is lighting up when I test it. But number 3and 4 cylinders are not firing at all. My car was running fine until last week I started it up it made a popping noise and was making a hissing noise like air leaking from somewhere. Anyway, I put a new intake manifold runner control and new throttle body on the car. Upon starting the car it still ran rough. Diagnostics tool a cheap one (Ancel 310) threw code P2311.And to answer your question I did not change the plugs because they looked really good running kind of lean though. Actually very lean. Thanks, JC

Okay. That is great info. Any chance that was replaced on cylinder 4?

Even if it wasn't, let's start with swapping the coil to another cylinder and then clear the code and see if it returns.

As for the brown wire, that is the 12 volt feed so that is okay. The way this coil works is it takes that 12 volt feed and the PCM interrupts the signal creating the voltage spike to create the high voltage needed to fire the plug.

The PCM uses the other wire on the coil to do this and it is not an issue of the plug not firing. Basically the coil is not operating efficiently enough and it sets this code.

So when you say they are not firing at all, is the PCM not triggering the other wire or how are you testing that?

Let me know what happens when you swap this coil and we can go from there.

Thanks

Actually I hate to admit it but electrical is one thing I'm not good at. I have a multimeter that has so many functions on it I'm lost. I don't know how to use it. And can't make any sense out of the manual. So I just used a test light to verify the brown wire is hot. the other wire my understanding is it should blink while turning over the engine with the test light hooked to positive cable while touching number two pin in the coil connector? Is that correct? Problem is I have no one to turn the engine over while I touch the connector pin with my light. And I replaced the number 4 coil today. i replaced them all, and the plugs. starts easily but won't accept any throttle.
Shuts off when you depress the pedal
I'll check the diagnostic codes again tomorrow and see if that coil is still malfunctioning. Thanks, JC.

Hello, KK I changed the coil yesterday I'm still getting the 2311 code . Anyway you can explain to me how to use this ohm/multimeter to simply check the middle pin? I think it is in the diagram you sent me. I have the pins on the PCM and the middle pin on coil connector to test together I'm guessing to tell if the PCM is working properly or not. My guess is not. I'm going to try and send you a photo of the meter in I have. can you please provide me the settings which I should use to check the coil connector/PCM? Thanks, JC

I can walk you through that. Basically you are going to use the ohm setting for resistance readings and the DC volts setting for testing electrical circuits. The scale that you select is going to depend on the circuit that you are testing. However, all this is doing is moving the decimal. So if the test below asks if it is below 5 ohms, just make sure you are not looking a 500 milliohms and think that is over 5 ohms when really that is a half ohm.

Also, here are a few guides that will explain this in more detail then I can answer the questions you have:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I am also attaching the testing for a coil. This is going to test the PCM as well to see if it is pulsing the coil.

You don't need a meter for this, just a test light to see if the light is flashing when the PCM pulses the coil.

That may be easier if you are not familiar with a meter. However, if you use the meter to do this, just put the red lead where it tells you to put the test light and then the black to the battery ground so that you get a reading on the meter.

Let me know what questions you have.

Thanks, KK I tried the test light to the middle pin of the coil connector and got nothing at all. I then had someone turn the engine over while I held the coil with harness attached. It did produce a spark. However not a constant spark but intermittently. Number 4 coil I went and bought a remote starter switch to hook to the ign. Starter wire to positive battery terminal. Hopefully this will work. But I can confirm the #4 coil is producing spark. Is it possible this could have jumped timing? It did pop back thru the throttle body when that happened my trouble started... Thanks. JC

Will do and thank you for your patience be in touch soon. JC

More than likely it is not a timing issue as that would still produce a spark just at the wrong time.

When you say it is an intermittent spark, can you maybe get a video of this spark?

If there is spark then the PCM is firing it so that would suggest it is not a coil driver circuit on the PCM.

A compression test will rule out jumped timing so here is a guide that we can run through. It is not a bad idea due to the fact that it popped through the intake even though I don't this is it but I have been wrong before. It's rare but it happens. :)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

A compression test has been done last week when it first happened. Its reading 150 on all 4 cylinders. I still believe the popping noise it made when this first happened is behind this problem but I don't know what that was. I know since replacing the intake manifold and throttle body it doesn't make the noise.
Like it's losing air anymore. I'll try and get a video of the spark when turning the engine over for you tomorrow. And the plugs don't seem to wet after running it a few minutes. But the engine shakes terribly. JC

Okay. Compression is good so that leaves the fact that this is a code that is telling us that the secondary burn of the coil and plug is not sufficient. Basically this is firing the spark plug in the exhaust stroke so that it burns out any remaining fuel to try and cut down on emissions.

We could have a timing issue which could explain a lot but the easiest way to confirm that is put a vacuum gauge on the intake and make sure the needle is steady.

Next we need to check and make sure the 12 volt feed to the coil is actually 12 volts. We could have corrosion or a driver issue on the PCM.

Let me know if you can get a vacuum gauge on this thing as well. Here is a chart that will help with readings.

Thanks

I pulled the valve cover today and checked all the valve springs and made sure the lifter's had not collapsed on any of the cylinders.
The timing chain is good. I've done some coil testing today and found some issues concerning the wiring or
The PCM driver the blue striped wire is not working properly. My test light should blink when turning over or running the engine while attaching the test light to the positive battery terminal. And testing the middle pin in the coil connectors /blue wire. The light does not pulsate as it should. I can get a solid light but not pulsating.
Except for the number one coil connector. It gets no response at all. The brown wire lights up. But nothing on the blue wire. The spark plugs is firing... So I'm thinking it's in the PCM.
What's your opinion? Attached video of engine did a compression test on cylinder one with engine running. All cylinders 150 even while running.

Okay. I just want to make sure I understand correctly.

You are testing the coils and you are checking the PCM control wire and you are not getting any pulse at all when cranking or when the engine is running?

The brown wire is the 12 volt feed and the PCM uses the other wire to interrupt that signal so yes, it should be pulsing. The best way to test it is with a scope but you should be able to get them pulsing.

What I don't understand is you said the plug is firing but you are not getting pulsing? That is what is not adding up. If the plug is firing then the PCM has to be controlling the secondary side of the coil so that it will fire. Or is the spark orange? If it is then that is a 12 volt spark and not the high voltage spark that it needs to be. Which means that is the coil or the PCM. If the coil is not it then the PCM would have to be the issue.

Yes it is orange. I'm so glad you asked that question I'd forgotten it was not a nice blue spark. They all seem to be firing orange fire. But you are understanding my explanation.
That pretty much describes what's going on. It will start right up but runs
Like crap. Good compression doesn't
Seem to be any gas issues. The blue striped wire does not work as far as the light pulsating when spinning the engine over. I even tried it with the engine running ..( Nothing) I also would like to add that I noticed while checking the coils for firing there seems to be a hesitation in the firing of the plug like it doesn't fire Every time the engine spins over. But kind of like an intermittent firing. Does that make any sense? Thanks for your help. I think it's time to replace the PCM.
(Do you agree)??

I would like more proof but I think that is what I would do. If it were me, that is enough for me to put a PCM in it. When I am advising others, I like to have more proof as it is not my money.

However, the PCM is solely responsible for signaling the coils when to fire the plugs. They do this by interrupting the voltage to create the spike and then the coil delivers that to the plug. This is the blue spark so when it is orange that is low voltage and will not completely burn the fuel mixture and the engine runs poorly if at all.

The only other things that factor in are the crank sensor or the coils. The crank sensor just tells the PCM the position but the fact that the engine starts, shows the CKP sensor is fine.

I suspect the driver in the PCM for the coil has failed and needs replaced.

Let me know what you think.

I totally agree I found one on sale $73.00 comes programed to the VIN of the car. I figured if this doesn't fix it I have two choices dealership or mechanic special... I only paid $1,100.00 few years ago only minor problems. But this coil issue or the code has been coming up the whole time I've had the car. The thing is it's always ran fine. Except for the gas mileage. It is hard on gas. The engine light comes on every couple months so I replaced the coil that was cylinder 4. Cleared the code and next time light came on It threw the same code again. Misfire cylinder 4. So this last time I was surprised when it popped back through the throttle body and it started running real bad. This time the 2311 code came up. Which I guess is basically the same thing going on.
How do you tell when this particular vehicle jumps time? Beings there is no distributor to use a reference point? The chain looked in great shape nothing looked out of place and it starts very easily. Just don't wanna stay running.

Understood. The only way to verify timing is to do the verification.

I attached it below. If this is off, then we will need to get a new post started on timing procedures. We need to keep each post to one topic only so that others can find the solutions easily. If they have a timing issue, they will most likely not find it under this post.

The point of the site is not only to help you but you will help others when they have the same issue you do. So when we work through your issue, then others can find it and follow on their similar issue.

Please find the procedure below.

Thanks

Understand and I've done that myself. So in the event a new PCM doesn't fix my problem that will be my next step I guess. but in past timing issues I've found the vehicle hard to start and backfiring problems, so I'm pretty sure the electronics is my problem. Thank you kindly for your time and help/patience. JC

You are welcome. That sounds great. I see your other question on the PCM, so thanks for starting that one on that issue.

If that doesn't fix it, thanks for your willingness to get a new one started on the timing. I agree that would be the next step and if it is off we can get that procedure on that post.

Thanks for using 2CarPros.