While driving vehicle all of a sudden lost acceleration power?

2008 FORD TAURUS
174,000 MILES • 3.2L • V6 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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JAY5RAY
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This all started as I was driving down the highway, my vehicle all of a sudden lost acceleration power and the little wrench emblem popped up on the dash. The vehicle did not turn off, however I was not able to accelerate and the vehicle stayed in an idle state while holding 700 rpm's fairly well. I had the vehicle taken to the mechanic and he said it was the throttle body. He replaced it with a used one to test it and the vehicle had the same issue except now the vehicle would shut off after a while. He told me that it was the ECM and insisted I take the vehicle because he does not work on electrical problems. The car does not rattle, shake, or do anything abnormal except the problems stated. I have not replaced any plugs or fuses. As I was getting ready to tow the vehicle the battery was completely dead since the vehicle sat in his shop for a few week (he waited so long to tell me these problems let alone work on my car). As I jumped the car to put it in neutral, I figured to give it a shot by putting it in drive. The vehicle was drivable for about 15 minutes when it began to showcase the same problems, a complete loss of acceleration power and staying in a idle state while holding 700 rpms. When the vehicle is in park or neutral and the gas is pressed down, it will sometimes but not high, maybe around 1500 - 2500 rpm's. Are these signs of a faulty ECM? I can’t pinpoint this issue, another outside source even stated that it could be a transmission solenoid since the vehicle was able to drive for a bit and all of a sudden stopped accelerating. I was not able to receive codes from the mechanic because he stated that he had forgotten and could not get to my vehicle at that moment for another diagnostic run. I have never experienced such a terrible mechanic by being put on the back burner. I would greatly appreciate the time and knowledge about this problem and hope to take care of this myself. Thank you for your time.
Dec 7, 2019 at 10:34 AM
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AL514
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Hello, The reason the car is acting like this is because it is in Limp mode, the ECM does this to protect the catalytic converter and further engine damage. First step is to have the ECM scanned for codes, hopefully there are still some in there because when the battery goes dead it erases the memory. This can be caused by a dirty throttle biore these guides will help fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.
Dec 7, 2019 at 12:51 PM
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AKMALS02
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We have gone to 3 different Ford mechanics in the last 6 months. all the time same code about fuel system. We have replaced fuel pump and module twice, processor once and the battery once. now 4th breakdown and no one can figure out why the car loses power while driving.

It loses power and we have been lucky enough to get it to the shoulder of the road. We sit for a couple of minutes and it starts right back up and is fine for a few weeks only to have it happen again. Ford dealership says they have done what they can and since they can't get the car to duplicate the problem in there presence, we will have to wait till it finally totally breaks down and the car won't start. then we will have to tow it to them and go from there.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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This happens when the car goes into limp mode due to a dirty throttle bore here are two guide to help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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LEMUEL311
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2006 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive 112665 miles

On the way from a trip all of a sudden the car stopped pulling while accelerating. Iit will not go into any gears. It stays on but will not go ito gear. What might this be?
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has the check engine light come on? Is the trans fluid full and clean?
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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LEMUEL311
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check engine light did't not come on. Transmission fluid is full.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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What I need you to do is have the trans computer scanned (TCM). It has to go to a shop for this to be done. For it to just totally stop, it sounds electrical to me. I'm hoping that there is a code stored in the TCM that will identify where the problem is.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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PATJR001
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when driving i noticed i get loss of power what are the things that could cause this
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Check fuel pump pressure. If the check engine light is om, have the computer scannedfor reuble codes. Most part stores will dit for free.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:43 AM (Merged)
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2CP-ARCHIVES
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After taking off from stop the car shifts real hard around 2500 rpm. It also accelerates slow, rpms go up without accelerating, it takes to long to shift between third and fourth gear.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If the rpm's are going up and the vehicle isn't speeding up, it sounds like the transmission is slipping. Have you checked the basics? Is the trans fluid clean and full? Is the check engine light on?
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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JAS_SER
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Air Conditioning problem
2005 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

car loses power when ac is on why is this
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It is normal to feel a slight loss of power because the compressor is hard to turn when on. As a result, there is a slight power loss. However, how bad of a power loss do you have? Do you hear any noise from the compressor or belt when it is on?

Let me know.

Joe
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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DETRA5975
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My car stopped on the freeway today, after coasting to the shoulder, it did crank back up but won't go over 30 miles, it is jerking, and cuts off when I come to a complete stop. But it will start back up, but acts as if it wants to cut back off unless I give it gas. It has been running fine, I got a tune-up and a new battery about a month ago now, what could be the problem? Please help
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It could be a few things. First, did the check engine light come on? Also, have you been able to check fuel pressure?

If you need directions for this, let me know.

Joe
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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DETRA5975
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The check engine light is on, nd now it is saying check transmission, I took it to the shop today, I was told there is a hole in the manifold.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Which manifold, intake or exhaust?
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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DETRA5975
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My car stopped on the freeway today, it starts back up but won't go over 30 miles, and if I stop, it is going to cut off, but starts right back up. I recentlt got the battery changed a month ago now, recently got a tune-up, alternator fine, what could be the problem?
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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BMRFIXIT
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Check fuel pump and fuel pressure
do you have check engine light on and if so need to scan for codes
I would suspect bad fuel pump (need fuel pressure check 1st )
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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MIKEERWIN
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having problems with my 2004 ford taurus. Car bogs down as driving about 20 miles per hour then revs up and straightens out. Changed plugs and wires and cleaned MAF sensor. What else can i do should i check catilydic converter
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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No, the Catalyst won't come and go like that. The first thing you need to do is monitor the fuel pressure while this is happening and see if the pressure is dropping when this happens.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:45 AM (Merged)
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MARISA0317
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My car will not accelerate as it should. When I try to do so, it shakes and seems to have a hard time pushing past 25mph. After some clicking (which sounds like its coming from underneath the driver seat area), it will SLOWLY make its way to about 40mph. No matter how much I press and let off the gas, my car will not speed up- though the RPMs will jump around. The clicking noise will happen again a few more times.. then the car will kind of "kick" forward and pick up speed. No weird smells, no leaks that I have noticed. I had my oil changed around the begining of January of this year, and also I had to get both my upper and lower radiador hoses replaced due to dry rot. Could you give me an idea as to what this might be, and how much it usually costs?
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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BMRFIXIT
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You have to find what’s wrong 1st to get an estimate
With engine running do you have a check engine light?
Have to check for codes as a 1st step
If check engine light on and blinking it’s an indication of an engine misfire and need to check it for tune up and the coil
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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JONES54
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Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Ford Taurus V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

we took the car to anmco 900 hundred dollars latter they said we hads to take it to a ford dealer to get co sensor replaced and car reprogramed. called ford they said bring it in but did not have a clue what anmco was talking about . this was at the bottom of the bill . came in with cat convertor code and 02 sensor and car would not move without dying. inspected bank 2 cat and found it damaged and empty. inspected rear cat converter and found it was plugged up. replaced cats and cleared codes. 02 sensor code came back and has poor acceleration. when first starting in morning the car stalls out until warm. has no power.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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BILLYMAC
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Hi
if your question is what does this mean?the convertor on bank 2 was damaged as in maybe hit by road debri.


the rear convertor was plugged restricted with carbon and not funtioning now why they could change the convertors and ford has to change 02 sensors . i don,t know

REPROGRAMMING another mystery there are no codes or problems to indicate reflash is required.better go on to ford and find out what is really going on
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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LARRYLWILL
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I was in the midst of turning around and the power steering just stopped working. I pulled into a gas station and checked the reservoir which was empty save some foam which was vigoriously circulating. I bought a quart of fluid and added it while the engine was running and it promptly dissipeared. I stopped the engine and it bubbled back up through the top. The pump is working and there was no fluid on the ground from under the car. I was forced to drive home about 75 miles without power steering. No noise was evident. I assume I blew an o ring in the PS unit and the fluid is in the piston or boots. Any ideas? Can the unit be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced. The car is NOT in warentee.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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MHPAUTOS
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Hi there, Re fill the reservoir and start up, slowly turn steering L-R & R-L turn off and let sit as aerated fluid will settle, wash down pump and rack, check level and top up as required. start engine, Have some one turn steering while you watch, check hoses, (High and low pressure) check under for rack failure, The leak will show up, if rack, a change over unit is best option, hoses can be replaced relatively easily, as the pump as well, you just have to be sure of what is leaking, first.

Mark (mhpautos)
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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LARRYLWILL
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[quote:959e401a75="mhpautos"]Hi there, snip

Mark (mhpautos)[/quote:959e401a75]

Mark, I will do it as soon as it gets above freezing today. Thank you
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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GFDOOIT
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loss of power, we had a vacuum leak in intake so we replace PCV valve with o-rings, now it runs smooth but has no power going up slight hill.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Hello,

It sounds like you have a catalytic converter that is plugged up. Here are some guides that will confirm the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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GFDOOIT
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thanks, we think we discovered that one of the front two converters has sent pieces out causing the 3rd rear converter to clog. So far, we lowered the bolting of the rear one and drove it, much more power and shifting correctly. So is it necessary to change the rear one, or can it be cleaned. we were told to remove it and put a pipe there. however we were told if you do that the oxygen sensor will cause it to dump more fuel. which is best??
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Its best to replace the converter, if you try to bypass it the car will have a check engine light that will not go out and it will never run as good.

Here is a guide that will help you see what you are in for when changing the catalytic converter out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Please let us know what happens.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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A1HANDY
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This is a recently purchased vehicle that I just replaced the transmission in. The car has been running fine until one morning when I tried to start the engine would not turn over, the starter just spun. After awhile I tried again and the engine fired. It will build up to around 2500 rpm running smoothly then bog and run rough and drop the rpms to around 800 to 1000. This is accompanied by a single exhaust backfire.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Hi a1handy, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Severe hesistation/bogging/surging could be caused by one the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking,fuel filter or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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GEORGE_SLO
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04 taurus eng code -u intermit power loose up hill&flat land.had crank sensor code replace 2 days later no start next day start runs ,2day later light on codespo300 po302 po316 po351 po352 replace coil pack, fuel pump noisey replace,fuelfilter clear.run car same problem,then got codes same codes xcept po302 insteed got po301 po304 put old coil back on lost code po304 stall had oter codes.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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You are dealing with misfires. The fact that you changed the one coil and lost the code makes me want to ask you to swith them around to see if the codes move to the different cylenders where the potentially bad coil is.
Aug 22, 2020 at 9:46 AM (Merged)