Anti theft?

Where were the wires that were chewed and wire colors if possible. It may be that they chewed through a wire that powered the body module and erased the memory of the keys, or there are more wires chewed through that you haven't discovered yet.

Under the fuse box and red

Put the key in and turn it, any dash lights or activity at all? Does it crank but not start? Red wires are power to the PCM as well as to the coils and injectors. If you have power and it does react to the keys you might try programming them in and see if that works. Usually though it will give you a warning if it's key related.

There is the little red light for the anti theft and a check engine and it dosent even try to crank and how do i program them

It isn't quite that simple. First you need a dealer level scan tool. You need to use it to check for any codes in the SKREEM and then reset it and verify that the PCM recognizes it. Then you use the scan tool again to add in the keys and fobs. Chrysler didn't make it simple to do.

Can anyone besides the deal do it?

A shop that has a scan tool and programming set up and that can use the Chrysler software can do it. They are one of the worst for this type of work.

So ive tried reprogramming the keys and all that got a new pcm and bcm and still have the red light anyway to just bypass the antitheft?

Not on a Chrysler. They are integrated into more pieces so there is no good option. If you replaced modules and the light is still on there is still a wiring or hardware issue. What does it do when you try to start it? If it's doing nothing IE it doesn't turn over, that isn't the anti-theft, it is in the starting circuit. The light could be on because it simply isn't seeing power to a circuit that is also part of the starting circuit and the SKREEM in the column. These are the starting circuit. Use a test light to verify power and grounds for the module. A quick way is to use a scan tool, go into security and then see if it shows the key position and the security status.

If the starter was bad could that cause the red-light and ive checked every wire i can see in the engine bay and in the dash i took it all out and under the truck

No the starter wouldn't cause the light to be on. You said it worked ok until the mice chewed on it? Go over the wires you repaired and maybe take a picture of that area. Also look for missing wires, I have seen mice damage where they actually ate the wires right up to a connector so it looked like there wasn't supposed to be a wire there. List the wire colors and we can see if there is something missing. Also might be a good idea to take a test light and check all of the fuses. There seem to be a lot of failures in the fuse boxes themselves where the fuse itself is good, but it actually isn't connected in the box due to corrosion.
In this case a simple test would be to connect a test light between a ground and the yellow wire on the starter. Turn the key, the light should come on. Even if the anti-theft is on that should still work. If not then there is still an issue in the system. Might be a failed SKIM in the column. However I would start at the damaged wiring and look up the colors and what they feed.

Used the light and it didn't come on also checked all the connectors they all look like all the wires are there

No light = no start signal from the relay. Now you need to go to the TIPM and find the relay trigger wire (Dark green with orange in pin 11 of connector 1) that comes from the starting section of the BCM. It goes to ground when the ignition switch is in start. If you have that but no starter action, there is an issue in the TIPM. If there is no signal there then you need to use a scan tool to watch the network, with that you can see if the SKIM module is sending a start signal to the system.

Would a obd2 scanner work as the scan tool or do i need something more advanced?

A simple code reader won't do it. You need one that can access all the modules and that has bi-directional control.

Where does one get one and around how much

There are several places. Topdon, Launch, Autel all make units that work like the OE StarSCAN system. They are not inexpensive though. Plus the issue on Chrysler products is that they can be a pain without the OE tool. The flip side is that the aftermarket system will do multiple makes and models. The OE tool is limited to Chrysler products. Price wise the tools that can do what you need are in the $1,000.00 and up range.

Okay thank you

Let us know what happens and if you need more info.

Do you happen to have the whole truck wiring diagram? Or be able to find it i cant seem to find it

With the light on I would start with the security system wiring. These are the diagrams for the SKREEM module and the cluster inputs. The grounds for the door latches all meet under the dash. If you don't see a door ajar warning that is likely OK. Next I would run all the fuses, there is a good chance that if mice got under the TIPM and chewed they knocked out a fuse or two. because there are short jumpers under it as well as main wires. So go to the fuse boxes and test with the key off then key on. See if there is a problem. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse
As for a wiring diagram, the best solution there is to get a short term subscription to either Alldata DIY or Mitchells DIY service. You get them for a single vehicle and get the same access we use. Then you can go in, find the diagrams and then print them to pdf files for later use. (you could even go through and print out entire sections) The advantage to that is you can blow them up much larger without all the distortion.