I Need some help with Winterization questions for article

As far as the head lights, I would recommend a quality non abrasive auto wax. There is no danger of the grim build up other than visability problems if they get too dirty. As far as cleaning them, do it as necessary.

Doors freeze shut due to snow and ice melting from the escape of heat from in the vehicle. When the vehicle cools off, it refreezes and causes the door's weather stripping to freeze to the door jam. You could use a product that will repel water. If the water doesn't stay on the weather stripping, chances are it won't freeze. But remember, there are areas that the water may not be able to escape from. Thus, it will still freeze.

Batteries fail during the winter due to cold temps. The colder it gets, the less power the battery is able to produce. Always remember, when you purchase a battery, never get one with less cold cranking amps than the engine's cubic inch. For example, a 350 CI engine requires a minimum of 350 CCA from its battery. I always recommend getting one with as many CCA as you can afford.

As far as tires, make sure they are properly inflated. An over inflated tire will cause a loss of traction. As far as cleaning them, the only concern is when snow and ice build up in the wheel well. Try to keep that area clean to prevent body damage. The tire itself doesn't need to be cleaned.

Frost on windows will happen no matter what you do. The only thing you can do to prevent it is cover the windshield with a blanket to keep snow off it. If the vehicle is kept in a garage, frost shouldn't be a problem. I have seen many people over the years stretch a blanket across their windshield and close the ends in the door. When they remove it in the AM, the glass is clean.

I hope this helps.

Joe

for headlights and rust i would hit the car wash if vehicle is driven daily at least 2 times a month and wash under the car and doors. good way to also keep rust off is to spray inside the doors. under the vehicle everywhere vulnerable for rust is to spray them with engine oil and that will keep a vehicle new for years.

to keep doors from freezing make sure the weather stripping is in good condition and tight and snug. if water doesnt get path the weather stripping then it wont get in and freeze the door locks or door to the weather stripping.

to keep vermin out from the inside of the vehicle if vehice is stored stuff a rag in the air intake duct of the air piping going to the air filter box. if the vehicle is driven on occasion the vehicle will stay rodent free.

another problem with winterizing is fuel can go bad. best thign to do is store vehicle and make sure theres barely any gas in it then dump in a can of gas preserver just to make sure that the gas stays fresh.

if vehicle isnt stored try to keep gas ablove half a tank to prevent freezing of the fuel in the tank and less water to be introduced to the gas tank. and dont overdo it on heet and oother fuel system additives or it could cause more harm then good.

Thanks for your help guys

Use silicone caliper grease on weather stripping, this reels water and keeps you from getting frozen out, just apply a thin coat.

Cars are not made for the northeast. Being in a salt zone with nightmare salt and rust

When you live here and get a new car, look for one with plastic fuel & brake lines and fuel tank. If not, immediately coat the lines with wheel bearing grease and focus on the areas where the lines are attached to the body. This is the biggy for leaks down the road. I have one customer that has his undercarriage sprayed with oil , I charge more because of this on repairs that require cleaning...I'm not working in that slop. Clean the inside of the windsheild and remove any haze. Make sure the wipers work and remember to clean the snow and ice off the wipers prior to turning the switch on. Wipers should clean the window and not be streaky. Try cleaning the blade with rubbing alcohol and a rag if so. Replace of there is no improvement. Is the windsheild washer solvent a quality one or will it freeze in bitter temps? Is the reservior full and the squirters working? If tires are within an 1/8" of the wear bar, you best be aware of driving in the snow will be difficult most often. Wide tires suck in the snow. Test out the car in a parking lot that is empty to see how it will handle and stop in snow. The biggest important thing is to be current with the maintenance...that is a broad opinion however when determining needed maintenance. Coolant flushes would be typical of required maintenance. Underwstnad that this climate is a severe duty climate and does change the required/suggested/needed schedule. Oil changes 3 monthes or 3000...primarily when the season is present or moisture will be present in the engine. IS the battery 5 years old? Strongly consider it. Are the battery cables and connections clean and protected? Clean all weatherstripping with silicone. Check the temperature of the heat before you need it and make sure the blower speeds and air volume direction are going where they need to be. Keep an eye for your lights all the way around to be visable...If they look dirty, make them visable. If they don't work fix them. If your lenses are foggy, replace them. For the cost of buffing them out, you will get a much better field of vision for a comparable cost in many cases. If you own a caravan or voyager, make sure your engine does not have the belt throwing condition in snow. Keep locks lubed. Be aware of a build up of ice in a rim can cause a front end shake or vibration. Understand that 4 wheel drive can go like hell in the snow but stops no better than if it did not. Is the spare accessible and full? Is the jack accessible and working?