Air suspension problems

It sounds like you have a ride height sensor that has gone out or the control rod has fallen off. You will need to raise the car up safely to inspect.

Here is a guide to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Here is its location (below):

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

My air bags won't go down they aired up one day and never went down

have it scanned first as it can be a wiring issue, compressor, load height sensor etc.

Sounds to me like a bad vent solenoid in the compressor.

Short term, you'll need to replace the compressor/dryer.

Long term, replace the dryer a couple times within a 6 month period. This is to absorb the accumulated moisture from the system.

For even less than the compressor, you could do a coil spring conversion.

Good day,

I bought a 1995 lincoln town car, and the check suspension system light is on, and the rear is way high in the rear, the air bags in the rear are filled up and the car is sitting very high in the reaqr. Im considering taking the bags out and putting the springs kit, is there a release valve that I can let some of the air out of the bags to lower the car in the rear? I want to do this until I put the springs on the vehicle. Thanks Michael 954-245-5572

.My opinion is the hieght adjuster in the back, on the axle needs adjustment, If you try it, turn the air suspension switch off in the trunk before you jack it up!

The left rear air bag keeps leaking down and the pump runs too much.Then the 30 amp fuse blows.I know it's leaking somewhere in the system,causing this (at least I think it must be}.How should I proceed,in order to locate the leak(problem)? thank you, Steve Taylor

jack the car from the axle and no were else so you don't blow the whole system and with a spray bottle filled with soapy water spray the airbag and the lines to find the leak you will find bubbles were it's leaking

hi steve use a spray bottle dish soap and water inflate system shut off car spray lines from front to back may be easier to start at the bag going down. you will see bubblrs where leak is o rings are replaceable.. billymac

here is the testing for air system TOOLS FOR THE JOB Digital multi-meter and/or analog multi-meter Some jumper wires Small tool kit with assorted screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers Garden sprayer or spray bottle filled with soapy water Also an assistant can be useful at times COMPONENT LOCATIONS Compressor: under the hood, left front corner under the air cleaner Compressor relay/fuses A, C and U: under hood in power distribution box Other fuses: in instrument panel fuse board Control module '90 - '94: Right side of trunk behind trim panel Control module '95 - '97: Behind the glovebox On/Off switch: right side of trunk Height sensor: under the car from suspension to frame Air springs: one each side on rear axle to frame Air spring vent solenoids: one on the top of each air spring Diagnostic plug: right side of trunk behind trim panel AIR SUSPENSION TESTING Your "Check Suspension" light has come on, what do you do next? Well the first thing to check is the fuses and that the on/off switch is "on". Model Year I/P Fuses Under Hood Fuses 90 - 91 1 and 4 A (50amp) and U 92 - 93 1 and 8 A (50amp) and U 1, 4 and 8 A (50amp) and U 95 - 97 7 C (50amp) and U

The picture above shows the power distribution box of a '92 Town Car with the compressor relay removed and placed to one side, fuse "U" and the compressor relay pins labeled. TESTING THE MODULE POWER FEEDS AND ON/OFF SWITCH> Switch the air suspension off and disconnect the control module connector. Switch testing '90 - '94 Town Cars Connect a voltmeter or test light to the Dark Green/Yellow wire and ground. You should get twelve volts when the air suspension switch in turned on, if not check fuse 1 or service switch/wiring to fuse 1. '95 Town Cars Connect a voltmeter or test light to the Dark Green/Yellow wire and ground. You should get twelve volts when the air suspension switch is turned on, if not check fuse U or service switch/wiring to fuse U. NOTE: There are two terminals with Dark Green/Yellow wires, both should test the same. '96 - '97 Town Cars Connect a continuity meter (ohms) between the Dark Green/Yellow wire and the Purple/Light Green wire; you should have 0 ohms with the switch closed and infinity with the switch open. Other power feeds '90 - '91 Town Cars Check the Light Blue/Pink wire for battery voltage when the ignition is switched on, if no voltage check fuse 4 and wiring. '92 - '94 Town Cars Check the Red/Yellow wire for battery voltage when the ignition is switched on, if no voltage check fuse 8 and wiring. '95 Town Car Check the Light Blue/Pink wire for battery voltage when the ignition is switched on, if no voltage check fuse 7 and wiring. '96 - '97 Town Cars There are three Light Blue/Pink wires. The ones on pin 1 and 15 will have battery voltage all the time, if no voltage check fuse U and wiring. The one on pin 16 will have battery voltage when the ignition is switched on, if no voltage check fuse 7 and wiring. TESTING THE COMPRESSOR AND RELAY If the compressor appears to not be working, first check the fuses. Then check that the compressor actually works: the simplest way to do this is to remove the compressor relay and with a jumper wire bridge the terminals in the power distribution box for pins 30 & 87. You may get a small spark and the compressor should start. If the compressor doesn't start, remove the jumper wire and check for battery voltage on pin 30. If you have no battery voltage on pin 30 then there is a fault in the power distribution box or with fuse U. If you have battery voltage on pin 30 then gain access to the compressor and disconnect the compressor harness, reinstall the jumper wire to pins 30 & 87, and check for battery voltage on the Purple/Orange wire ('90 - '95) or Grey/Red wire ('96 - '97). If you have battery voltage then check for continuity to ground through the black wire, if you have continuity to ground and the compressor connector is in good condition then the compressor is bad. NOTE: The wires on the compressor side of the connector are different colors. If the compressor started when pins 30 & 87 were jumped then the next check is the relay. The easiest way to do this is fit it in the horn relay slot next to the compressor relay slot (first check the horn sounds), and then sound the horn - if the horn doesn't sound the relay is bad. To check the relay is functioning and wiring to the control module, first remove the compressor relay and check for battery voltage on pin 86. If there is no battery voltage then a fault exists in the power distribution box. If you do have voltage refit the relay and gain access to the control module and switch off the air suspension and disconnect the module connector. Now with a jumper wire ground the Dark Blue/Yellow wire (all years) and the compressor should start; if not then there is a fault with the wiring to the module from the power distribution box. If the compressor does start then the module may not be giving the signal to start the compressor, maybe the module, maybe the height sensor.

The picture above shows a Town Car compressor with the airline connection circled in red and the vent solenoid circled in green. TESTING THE DOOR INPUTS The air suspension will not vent if a door is open, the module may be receiving a false "Door open" signal from a faulty courtesy light switch. To test the door open signal switch the air suspension off and disconnect the control module connector. '90 - '94 Town Cars Connect a voltmeter between the Dark Blue/Orange wire and ground, you should have 0 volts, now open and close each door, you should get 12 volts each time a door is opened. '95 - '97 Town Cars The door open signal comes from the LCM (Lighting Control Module), I am not sure what type of signal is used but from studying the wiring diagrams I believe it to be low voltage, probably 5 volts. The door open signal wire is Black/Yellow; it may be possible to test using a voltmeter as for the '90 - '94 Town Cars. TESTING THE AIR SPRING AND VENT SOLENOIDS Venting test '90 - '94 Town Cars Switch off the air suspension and disconnect the control module connector, then simultaneously ground the Purple/Light Green, Light Blue/Black and Pink wires. The rear of the car should lower. If not then check fuse U and try again if blown. Next, gain access to the compressor assembly and disconnect the air line from the drier. Then once again ground the Purple/Light Green wire and the left side should lower - ground the Light Blue/Black wire and the right side should lower. From these tests you will know if both spring solenoids are working and if they are, whether or not the vent solenoid is working. Venting test '95 - '97 Town Cars Switch off air suspension and disconnect control module connector, then simultaneously ground the Brown/Pink, and Tan/White and Pink wires. The rear of the car should lower. If not then check fuse U and try again if blown. Next, gain access to the compressor assembly and disconnect the air line from the drier. Once again ground the Brown/Pink wire and the left side should lower; ground the Tan/White the right side should lower. From these tests you will know if both spring solenoids are working and if they are, whether or not the vent solenoid is working. If this test shows both spring solenoids and the vent solenoid are venting, then it could be the control module is not sending the signals to vent. This may be a bad control module, height sensor or false door open signal. Spring solenoid testing '90 - '94 Town Cars Switch the air suspension off and disconnect the control module connector. Next, gain access to the spring solenoids and disconnect the solenoid connectors. Now ground the Purple/Light Green and Light Blue/Black wires on the module connector. Next, using a voltmeter or test light bridge the two terminals of each spring solenoid connector and you should have battery voltage (test light lit). If not then connect your voltmeter to the Orange/Red wire of the solenoid connector and to a good chassis ground and you should have battery voltage. If not, check fuse U. If fuse U is okay then you have a wiring fault between the power distribution box and the spring solenoid. If you have battery voltage on the Orange/Red wire and when the two-solenoid connectors were previously bridged you did not get battery voltage then you have a wiring fault on the wire (Purple/Light Green or Light Blue/Black) between the control module and spring solenoid. Finally, remove the jumper wires from the control module connector and with your voltmeter or test light bridge the spring solenoid connectors - if you get battery voltage then the wire (Purple/Light Green or Light Blue/Black) between the control module and spring solenoid is shorted to ground. From these tests you will know if the wiring is okay. If during the previous venting test one or both air springs didn't vent and the wiring is okay, then it would be safe to assume that you have a bad spring solenoid(s).

The picture above shows a spring solenoid and retaining clip. Spring solenoid testing '95 - '97 Town Cars Switch air suspension off and disconnect the control module connector. Next, gain access to the spring solenoids and disconnect the solenoid connectors. Now ground the Brown/Pink and Tan/White wires on the module connector and using a voltmeter or test light bridge the two terminals of each spring solenoid connector. You should have battery voltage (test light lit), but if not then connect your voltmeter to the Light Blue/Pink wire of the solenoid connector and to a good chassis ground. You should have battery voltage but if not check fuse U, If fuse U is okay then you have a wiring fault between the power distribution box and the spring solenoid. If you have battery voltage on the Light Blue/Pink wire and when the two-solenoid connectors were previously bridged you did not get battery voltage, then you have a wiring fault on the wire (Brown/Pink or Tan/White) between the control module and spring solenoid. Finally, remove the jumper wires from the control module connector and with your voltmeter or test light bridge the spring solenoid connectors if you get battery voltage then the wire (Brown/Pink or Tan/White) between the control module and spring solenoid is shorted to ground. From these tests you will know if the wiring is okay. If during the previous venting test one or both air springs didn't vent and the wiring is okay, then it would be safe to assume that you have a bad spring solenoid(s). Vent solenoid testing '90 - '95 Town Cars Switch air suspension off and disconnect the control module connector, next disconnect the compressor connector, then check for battery voltage on the Orange/red wire, if no voltage check fuse U, if fuse U is okay then you have a wiring fault between the power distribution box and compressor connector. If you had battery voltage, ground the Pink wire on the control module connector and bridge the Orange/Red and Pink wire of the compressor connector with your voltmeter. You should have battery voltage, but if not then there is a fault on the wire between the compressor connector and the control module connector. Next, with the voltmeter still bridging the compressor connector, remove the ground from the control module connector. If you still have battery voltage indicated then the Pink wire from the compressor connector to the control module is shorted to ground. NOTE: the wires colors are different on the compressor side of the connector. If the wiring is okay and the previous venting test showed the vent solenoid wasn't venting then you have a bad vent solenoid.

The picture above shows a Town Car vent solenoid removed from the compressor. Notice the corrosion - this is the usual cause of vent solenoid failure. Also notice the broken sealing tip - this occurred when I removed the vent solenoid as it was old and fragile. Vent solenoid testing '96 - '97 Town Cars Switch air suspension off and disconnect the control module connector, next disconnect the compressor connector, then check for battery voltage on the Light Blue/Pink wire, if no voltage check fuse U, if fuse U is okay then you have a wiring fault between the power distribution box and compressor connector. If you had battery voltage, ground the Pink wire on the control module connector, then bridge the Light Blue/Pink and Pink wire of the compressor connector with your voltmeter, you should have battery voltage, if not then there is a fault on the wire between the compressor connector and the control module connector. Next, with the voltmeter still bridging the compressor connector remove the ground from the control module connector, if you still have battery voltage indicated then the Pink wire from the compressor connector to the control module is shorted to ground. NOTE: the wires colors are different on the compressor side of the connector. If the wiring is okay and the previous venting test showed the vent solenoid wasn't venting then you have a bad vent solenoid. TESTING THE HEIGHT SENSOR Wiring colors 1990 - 1994 Pink/White = Power Black/Pink = Ground Orange/Black = Low height input Pink/Black = High height input Wiring colors 1995 - 1997 Purple/Light Green = Power Black/Pink = Ground Orange/Black = Low height input Pink/Black = High height input

It is very important to follow these instructions exactly as damage to the height sensor may occur. You will need a REGULATED 3.3volt (+/- 0.3 volts) power supply and a digital ohmmeter (multi-meter) as follows. Connect the positive of the regulated 3.3volt power supply to the Pink/White ('90 - '94) Purple/Light Green ('95 - '97) wire, and the negative to the Black/Pink wire. Connect the RED lead of the ohmmeter (multi-meter on ohms range) onto the Pink/Black OR the Orange/Black wire. Connect the BLACK lead of the ohmmeter (multi-meter on ohms range) onto the negative of the power supply. Observe the reading on the ohmmeter (multi-meter on ohms range) and compare with the table below. AIR LEAKS The most common place for an air leak is the air springs, closely followed by the drier/compressor joint and on early 90s Town Cars on the air line just where the frame goes up over the rear axle. Other suspect places are on the spring solenoids and any place there is an air line joint. To test for an air leak, fill a garden sprayer or spray bottle with a strong soap solution and spray the air springs, air line joints, air lines, or anywhere there is a leak suspected or probable and watch for bubbles. To check if an air spring is leaking, allow the compressor to inflate the air springs to trim height, switch off the air suspension and go for a drive or let sit overnight - if the rear of the cars drops significantly then you can be sure there is an air leak.

The picture above shows a Town Car air spring with a crack in it that was almost certainly leaking. SOME COMMON FAILURES AND POSSIBLE REASONS Check Suspension light comes on after driving a while: You have an air leak on an air spring that the compressor cannot keep up with. Fuse U keeps blowing: The compressor is being overworked because you have an air leak or the compressor is badly worn and drawing too much current. Rear of car too high: Vent solenoid seized closed so no venting is possible Check Suspension light comes on but the rear height looks okay: The vent solenoid is seized closed so no venting is possible. Moisture is the enemy of the air suspension system and does the most damage to the compressor and vent solenoid usually seizing the vent solenoid closed. The only cure for excess moisture in the system is to replace the compressor/drier assembly, both rear air springs/spring solenoids, and blow through the air lines with compressed air.

get the spring conversion kit... unless you plan on spending alot to keep your air suspension running. i converted to springs 2 years ago for $200, ive not had another problem since and i cant feel any difference in ride quality.its still got the same floaty kind of boat like ride as it always had . i did the repair myself... very easy, in about an hour. i lost my instructions half way thru and still finished everything but turning off my "check air suspension" light. if anyone knows how to do that id appreciate it. anyway the conversion kit is the best money ive spent in years!

my car keeps blowing the 30 amp fuse for the air ride , it keeps saying check air suspension , and was told by a local parts store that the relay for the air ride needs to be replaced , one person said the relay is on the firewall and other said it is in the fuse box I have looked in the owners manual for the location but cannot find it

I would like this information also. but dont no where to look for the answer you gave him

The compressor relay is in the relay center on the passenger side of the engine compartment

See the diagrams below

The check air suspension system light has come on for the 95 Lincoln Town Car and the air springs are no longer working. The car is riding low. Is this something that I can fix or repair or is this a shop fix? Any suggestions?

If memory serves me the town car has rear air bags and conventonal struts/springs in the front.
Ten years is about the average life span of the rear air bags.
Will the compressor still raise the car? Does it ride low all the time or just sink overnight?
Being that you are getting a check air light I'll bet the compressor is toast.

To replace the whole air (2 bags, compressor and misc,) setup (aftermarket) will run about $350.00 in parts. The aftermarket airbags have a lifetime warranty. A conversion to rear coil springs will run around $200.00 for parts.

[i:d2b7593d4a]Good time for new shocks.[/i:d2b7593d4a]

The air system is a fairly easy replacement requiring a few hand tools, jack, and jack stands.

The spring conversion is somewhat more difficult. It requires the same tools and an additional jack and jack stand. There are a few more steps in the process also.

Now I will give you my opinion having done the conversion on a 1985 continental. I miss the air springs. The conversion does not give the same ultra plush ride. It also does not adjust to a full load of folks. Three adults in the rear and it sits a little too low for my taste. I went to the conversion primarly due to age and the fact that the conti has 4 airbags. My compressor was shot and I the thoughts of finding the air ride computer for that car was not pleasant. Towncars are so much more readily available at the recycle yard. They are also much more interchangeable when it comes to parts and year.

Check out this link. It will give you an idea of price and procedure. There are several other aftermarket suppliers not to mention OEM. Post back if you want a few more links.


Good luck and let us know. :)

make sure the switch in the trunk is turned on. go to the passanger side under the hood and check your fusses a blown fuse will not let the compressor come on if you do have a blow fuse suspect a bad compressor. the compressor is located on the driverside finderwell i think under the washer bottle there is a drain in that box and i gets colleged up with dabre and in some cases with water cause it can't drain and it shorts the compressor motor which will blow the fuse. the dump valves on the airbags go bad and will release the air all the time whice will overwork the compressor andalso blow fuses hope this helps. ( NOS )

What is the best fix for the air ride suspension going out? What is the best guess estimate for the approx. amount to fix. My car is 15 years old, however, it only has 79K miles and I would like to get a few more years out of the car, but I am not sure if it is cost effective to get this fixed. Any thoughts?

Only way to tell for sure is to scan it with Ford tester, codes displayed will tell you which part is bad, but from my experience it can be the height sensor that connects to the rear axle, it can pop out of the ball socket, then the car emties out the air springs. Or the compressor can be no good. Or one of the lines or spring solenoids has a leak(compressor runs constantly, what symtom do you have?

"ass end" of car is riding extremely low and the car bounces when hitting bumps-- rear end of car is noticably riding low

OK check for the height sensor to see if it popped of the rear axle, common on TC's of this age! If that's it, turn of switch in trunk, jack up rear end by the frame, not the axle, place jack stands under the frame. Re attach the sensor, turn on trunk switch and start car, bags will refill... then shut off car, turn off trunk switch, remove jack stands, bee sure re attached lever on sensor wont pop off again, use a bolt instaed of the ball of you have to!

After installing a new battery I started the car and while backing out of the driveway the "message" appeared on the display. I drove the car for about 1/4 mile and stopped and shut the car off. I started the car again, I could hear the compressor trying to fill the air suspension I put it in drive and drove about 10 miles. The suspension initially inflated and while driving the same message appeared on the display. I got to my destination. shut off the car. Later when I started the car to go home the message appeared again and the suspension did not inflate. It was a terrible ride. I stopped and turned of the car again to see if it would be ok after restarting and this time it did not inflate. What do I look for first to fix this?
B. Crawford Yuma, AZ

Hello .. thanks for the donation .. much appreciated Air suspension diagnostics require using Super Star II Tester (004-00041) or an equivalent scan tester. Rear air suspension system is operational with ignition switch in RUN position and has limited operation for one hour after ignition is turned off. The air suspension switch is located on right side of luggage compartment and must be turned off when vehicle is on a hoist, being towed or being jump-started. A CHECK AIR SUSPENSION warning light is located in instrument panel message center, to right of speedometer. Warning light flashes 5 times, and then stays on when service switch is turned off or a system malfunction is detected. Air required for leveling vehicle is distributed from air compressor to the air springs by nylon air line, which runs from compressor drier through a "Y" fitting to each individual air spring. DIAGNOSIS & TESTING NOTE:Air suspension diagnostics require using Super Star II Tester (004-00041) or an equivalent scan tester. TESTING PRECAUTIONS CAUTION:When battery is disconnected, vehicle computer and memory systems may lose memory data. Driveability problems may exist until computer systems have completed a relearn cycle. See COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES article in GENERAL INFORMATION before disconnecting battery. CAUTION:Electrical power supply to air suspension system must be turned off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing vehicle. This can be done by disconnecting battery or turning OFF air suspension switch, located in trunk. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 4 . Compressor relay, compressor vent solenoid and all air spring solenoids have internal diodes for noise suppression. DO NOT switch battery and ground feeds when testing components. When charging the battery, the ignition switch MUST be in the OFF position if air suspension switch in trunk is on. See Fig. 4 . If ignition switch is in ON position, air compressor relay or motor may be damaged. Test Procedure Remove all extra loads from luggage compartment. Turn air suspension switch, located on right side of luggage compartment, OFF, then ON. Attach scan tester according to manufacturers instructions. Start engine. If engine cannot be started, connect battery charger to maintain battery level and turn ignition switch to RUN position. Wait 5 seconds, then depress scan tester button so it remains in TEST position. Code 10 should be displayed. If Code 10 is displayed, go to next step. If Code 80 is displayed, go to DIAGNOSTIC TEST M (CODE 80), BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW. If no codes are displayed, go to DIAGNOSTIC TEST N, UNABLE TO ENTER SERVICE BAY DIAGNOSTICS. Code 10 will be displayed for up to 2 minutes. DO NOT put any weight on vehicle while code 10 is displayed. When Auto Test is complete, Code 12 (test passed) or Code 13 (test failed) will be displayed. After Code 12 or 13 is displayed, open all doors and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn in both directions. Release scan tester button to HOLD position. Wait 5 seconds then push scan tester button to TEST position. Codes will be displayed within 20 seconds. If Code 11 is displayed, vehicle passes. Exit diagnostics by disconnecting scan tester and turning ignition switch to OFF position. If any other code is displayed, see ELECTRONIC SUSPENSION DIAGNOSTIC CODES table for test procedure. DO NOT disconnect scan tester or turn ignition off. Hope this helps .. let me know

Computer problem
1994 Lincoln Town Car V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 161k miles

'CHECK AIR SUSPENSION" warning light comes on. Air suspension has been replaced by coils. Have turned off switch and removed 30amp fuse in fuse panel. Still comes on about 15 seconds after start-up.

Also "WASHER FLUID LOW" is on when res. is full. How do you over-ride this or replace sensor (float) without buying the whole reservoir.

The washer resevoir light mostlikely will need a new level sender in the bottle.The washer fluid builds up in the assembly and causes them to fail over time.As far as the air suspension goes, there is awire that needs to be cut at teh suspension controller to keep that message from coming up, even with thefuse pulled.Send me an email at [email protected] with a reminder and I will get tyou that info Monday morning.I believe it is a dark green with a light green tracer, but I have it writen down at work for sure.

my air bags won't stay filled up. my air compressor will run for a while then quit. i bypassed my air compressor and filled up the airbags manually. they stayed full for about 3 hours. how does this system work? would the air lines have holes or the airbags? also my climate control is acting funny. when i turn left, the heat will come on. when i turn right the cooling will come on. what causes this to happen? how can i fix this problem?

The car can actually be scanned for suspension codes "B". Or get a spray bottle and spay soapy water on the air springs and lines, one has a leak...
Fix a/c issue by driving straight! Just kidding. Look under the dash for any wires being rubbed by the steering column, when you find it, tape and or re-solder and use wire ties to keep them off the column.

my 1992 lincoln towncar check air suspension ligh came on while i was driving i checked all fuses and all were good then replaced the air suspension relay ans still my pump will not work it seems like my batter is drawing power but the pumps not kickin in.

the pressure sitch that reads th air pressure may not be working or the motor is burnt up. You can jump the switch if you can find it to see if the motor will work. then replace it if that is the problem.

Suspension problem
1992 Lincoln Town Car V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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Rear Air Ride too high, How do you reset??

Very carefully! Put stands under the frame before any work is done, and yes you may need to re-stand it a few times until it's where you want it, but once the adjusting lever is disconnected, the car can and will drop to the ground without the stands...turn the switch in the trunk off, remove the adjusting end from it's anchor, and turn it, one way lowers it and the other way raises it...on 92 I think it's tighten to lower, but not possitive!

I am about to replace my air bags. I saw a guy online that was putting 22 inch wheels on the same car and had actually tapped into the airline and ran a separate line out by his gas tank with a shrader valve at the end.. He could then raise and lower the rear end whenever he wanted.. I was hoping someone could give me steps on doing the same... What all would i need? Just the shrader valve and air line and a t split ?

Hello , I'm Danny.

Yes, in theory that would work. However, being it's an automatic system every time you let air out the system it would automatically fill back up. If you added the T and schrader you would have to disable the automatic feature and have it be manual. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

That's what i was thinking. what do you think would be the best way to do that? Possibly a way to enable/disable with a switch?

Hello again
Quick question first.. Is the system working correctly? You mentioned you are going to replace the airbags..

Danny-

I am hoping that it will once i replace them. Was working fine before i woke up one morning and it was on the pavement. Looked and was a huge hole in one of them.

What you need is an air shock fill kit which you can get on Amazon for between $20.00 and $40.00. Here is a link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GBS1JE/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001GBS1JE&linkId=9d9e9c206aff666cbc29e1dda2542c00

Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.