Engine shuts off when driving?

Hey JOH,

The first things to check in this instance would be the spark plug condition and gaps.

Have the spark plugs been replaced recently?

I have attached instructions below on how to remove the spark plugs and it also shows specs for the gaps.

If not recently replaced i would advise starting by changing out the old spark plugs.

The next items to check will be the air filter and fuel filter.

I have attached the procedure for replacing the fuel filter, if this has not been recently replaced please also replace this and retest.

The engine air filter i do not have replacement instructions for but it should be easy to identify in a plastic air filter box at the end of the air intake ducting. Check and replace this if dirty.

I would also replace the ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor if not recently replaced also.

Once all of the service items are up to date see what you get with the running fault.

Regards, Joe

The car has a carburetor not injectors, i did all those things already,but no change.

Hey JOH,

Yes i see it is a carburetor vehicle from the information i have here.

Was there any work carried out before this fault occurred?
Does it rev up okay in park?
Is the problem only under load when accelerating?

Can you please check for vacuum leaks?

Guide below to check for leaks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Since you have a carburetor on this vehicle you will want to check around the base of the carburetor, the intake gasket and everything that is fed a vacuum supply from the intake.

Please check condition of all vacuum hoses and replace if deteriorated.

I would say after that the next step would be to further test for a restriction in the fuel system.

Please check for vacuum leaks and let us know what you find.

Regards, Joe

"Hello Ma'am/Sir, I have a 1991 Toyota corolla dx automatic sedan. It Cranks But it won't crank over? I check the fuel line it Got gas also at the fuel pump. It suddenly stop engine turned off on the main road."

Also, I change the car battery & change the circuit opening relay it clicks while I turn the ignition key & check all the fuses are still intact All around. I also Clean the distributor cap & plugs.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Click above link for more information on how to go about.

Ok I will check on it 1st in the morning. & then I will provide a feedback to you. Honestly, you ladies & gentleman(s) are the Pure & Simple Auto Mechanic's That Really Help Out People Alot. Keep it the Great Job. Type/Talk to You In A Few Hours From Now. Thanks Much!

To: KHLow2008,
I check on the link you gave/type to me & it was legit to check it & experience it out. Also, when I totally took out the timing cover & check the top crank wheel above it didn't move nor rotate when I crank it to see movement? What do I do now? Do I open also to check the lower level of the belt below to see it the timing belt is warp out? & may I kindly know how to do the (TDC) for My Vehicle? Thank you...

When the top do not move while the crankshaft is being turned, the timing belt is bad. Push at the belt to check for deflection and if it has a lot of slack, the belt has stripped a few tooth.

You would need to remove the crank pulley and lower cover to replace the belt.

Diagram shows the timing marks.

To: KHLow2008,
Ok will do, also I haven't move it fully will take it apart below to checkout the lowerside of the belt. Do I open also to check the lower level of the belt below to see it the timing belt is warp out? Thank You.

Yes, you would have to do that.

To: KHLow2008,
If I don't have a Adjustable Wrench On Me?
Is it Possible to Turn the Gear Wheel on Top that Holds the Timing Belt With A Socket Wrench? To (TDC) it.? With The Diagram You Send to Me?

Thank You!
07/19/2013
10pm gmt

Yes, you can use the bolt holding the cam sprocket to turn the camshaft. Turn the vrank away from TDC by about 20 degrees first and after getting the camshaft timing correct, turn the crank back to TDC.

To: KHLow2008

Ok sorry about that. My minor mistake was I took out the belt already & didn't check the top cam if it was aligned? I only align the bottom part crankshaft cam with the marker without the belt attached. All the other parts have been detach, Did I make a Error.?

07/20/2013
9:30am gmt

Question closed.

I have a 1991 Corolla 1.6 automatic, I am having a problem when i accelerate to fast the engine cuts in and out. It never stalls. At full throttle it will run for a second then cut off for a second. I have replaced the fuel pump, tps, distributor and I replaced the speed sensor. There are no codes.

Test the airflow meter-let me know

Doesn't have one, it has a air charge temp sens.

Airflow Meter On air intake, on left side of engine compartment

I have taken the airbox and tube off and there is no air flow meter, is it between the box and the intake.

Its on the air intake

This is the air intake, no meter.

It has a MAP sensor on rear of intake. Check the vacuum line to it, if leaking it will cause the problems you describe.

When I crank this car it does not act up until a couple of minutes. when you give it gas it falls on its face, but when you let up off the pedal it catches up. it does not do it every time either. I have replaced fuel filter and also fuel pump, but it kind of acts like it is running out of gas. do not think it has a mass airflow, so I am kind of stumped. maybe oxygen sensor?,any help be great thanks.

if it has a carburetor which I think it is probably time for a rebuild of carburetor. if fuel injected, then scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

It is fuel injected,,I will check pressure and let you know.

Check with live data and see if the throttle position sensor is reacting, as it may be faulty but still in the parameter that will not set a code for a fault.

I have a 1990 toyota corolla, when you first get in the car and drive for about 2 miles the car shutters and then dies, like you just turned off the fuel, but let it sit for just a moment i will restart and go alittle further then do it again, sometime for 3 to 5 more times, then it just quits acting up and drive fine the rest of the time. at first i thought it was the fuel pump but ruled that out, its almost like it gets vapor locked, could this be some kind of sensor causing this, someone told me that they believe there is something that i can spray into the inlet of where the fuel line enters the carbarator or should i be looking for something else. i had a diagnostics done with no hits

Sounds more like the ignitor in the distributor. When this happens again, spray some starting fluid in the intake, if it runs a few seconds, it is fuel related, if not it is ignitor, coil.

The car has sat for about 6 months before it was given to me. Had some rear end work completed on the car. Once I picked up the car I filled the car with gas on a Friday. Drove over the weekend on Sunday I topped the gas off. By Monday the car started acting sluggish and the car began to die on me. It would not turn over until after a couple of minutes. Appr 10 mintues the car would start up and drive a little down the the road and die again. We changed the spark plugs, checked the battery and alternator on Tuesday. Wednesday drove the car again and the same issue of the car dying happened again. It would sputter and check engine light would come on but not stay on. If we let the car sit it would start right back up again. We added c foam to the gas and change the fuel filter. The car still did the same thing. Our next step, we changed the Distributor cap and wires, the distributor rotor, and coil. I let the car run for about 20 minutes and then drove it. It runs fine idle. Its when we are driving that it kills. It sputters and sometimes I can give it gas and it will keep going. Then sometimes it will die at the next stop and/or will die when we go to accelorate. What could be the problem? What should I look for, check, and change next?

I would still run a scan and look at getting the fuel pressure checked and the injectors serviced, it may be getting very sticky after sitting around for so long, also the fuel may be contaminated, take a sample and check for water or the fuel smelling off.

lright here is a little bit of history. I had the radiator and thermostat replaced in my car and a few days later the check engine light came on. I pulled up the diagnostic codes which were 12 and 21. Googled those codes and 12 had something to do with the rpm signal from the distributor which a friend adjusted and the light went off. A few days later the light scame on again, at which point I replaced the O2 sensor and changed the oil while at it. The light went off once again. A few days later I started the car and was backing up when it started sputtering, then the check engine and oil light came on at the same time and the car died. Checked the oil and it was fine. What could cause this?

did the car overheat?? it may have damaged the motor.

start with basics, fuel pressure, compression and spark tests.

code 12 is normal with key on engine off. nothing he did changed this code. 21 is tps which could need adjusting, could be bad or wiring issue.

Roy

Did you erase the previous codes and recheck them again?

My dad help me adjust the timing today and that seemed to do the trick! The light is off for now....

How did he do that? I believe you have an idling fault and cleaning the throttle body and IAC coupled with adjusting the idling speed would solve the prioblem

If you keep adjusting evrything, you stand the chances of getting everything out of specs if you do not have any equipment to take readings.

I think you are right, drove the car today and it died every time I came to a stop

I just went through this same ordeal, what finally fix my car it was the ignition coil, it had a crack in it. I got the part at auto zone for $40.00 thats with tax, and had it replaced for 45 dollars labor

Thanks for the input.