radio not working

We need more info on what the aftermarket radio is and if there was a wiring jumper kit. Let's start with what the radio is and we can try to figure out the issue. Clearly I suspect we have a wiring issue so did they provide a wiring diagram with the radio? If so, can you upload that so we can compare it to the OEM?

Yes, I did use a harness kit so I didn't have to cut the original wires . the radio is a duel DC207BT. I had to buy the harness separate and splice the two together. the image is what I could find for a diagram .

Do you have an amp with the vehicle or did you have to add one? I suspect you had a non amp vehicle which means we most likely don't have the connections correct.

Here is the OEM wiring. The connector kit that you are plugging into this needs to match up with the wire colors that you are showing in that list you gave me. Clearly it does not list wire locations in the connector, it only gives wiring colors.

So you need to connect the kit connector to the OEM harness and then make sure each of the wiring colors listed on your list, lines up or is connected to the wiring diagram that I attached.

This means when it says the red wire which is ignition 12 volts, that it lines up with the OEM diagram where it says Fused Ign red/white.

I suspect you have an issue here when you say you had to splice the two together.

Let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Okay, will try. but in case it doesn’t work could the aftermarket harness adapter have a issues? I forgot to mention this but the adapter and the original harness have around a 1/8 inch play back and forth.

Yeah. It could. However, I would definitely start with making sure the wiring is correct. Then if needed and you suspect the connector, you can splice the wires together and eliminate the connector all together.

The blower fan, wipers & radio quit working. I replaced a 5 amp breaker in the fuse panel. all three items work with the ignition in accessory position, but will not work in on position or with engine running. Do i need to replace the ignition or is there some relay problem? If so where is the relay?

This is typical of burned contacts in the ignition switch but you also have to check the connector for signs of melting and overheated terminals. A five amp fuse or circuit breaker is not for this entire circuit. The heater fan alone draws more than twice that much on the higher speeds. In fact, burned up ignition switches happen much more commonly when the heater is used on the highest speeds a lot.

Fuse # 7 (40A) is the blower motor fuse.
You can swap the blower motor relay (in the fuse box) with another identical relay to see if that gets it working [if so, replace the relay].
If they are good, with the key on and the blower motor switch on; check for power [12v] at the BRN/RED wire at the blower motor connector. Check the BLACK wire also; it is the ground wire.
If not power is there, yet the fuse and relay are good (on vehicles with automatic climate control), check for power on the RED wire at the blower motor module/resistor. It is located on the blower motor housing under the passenger side dash, behind the glove box area and is held in by three or four phillips screws.
If you have power there but none reaching the blower motor, remove the module/resistor for further testing using an ohmmeter. (let me know if you need steps on how to do this.

The windshield wiper is circuit breaker 1 (20A). swap that relay as well to see if that cures the problem. If so, replace the relay.

Check the radio fuse.

Thank you for the advise. The ignition replacement did the trick.

Ric Jones

Dandy. Did you inspect the terminals in the connector too? If two were dark or the plastic connector body was melted those terminals need to be cut out of the body and two new ones plugged in individually. About 4" of those wires will be hardened too from the heat. Those sections should be cut off and 4" of new wire spliced in. Solder won't adhere properly to hardened wire. (You can use two crimp-on terminals but solder them too for a better connection). If overheated terminals aren't replaced they will have some electrical resistance which causes heat build-up and soon you'll have the same problem.

If all of the terminals are shiny and tight, and all the wires have their normal flexibility, the switch contacts were probably just arced enough times to cause the problem without any heat migrating out to the connector. In that case you don't have to replace wires and terminals.