1999 Acura Integra $$$$please help--will pay good if proble

Ma have sucked up trash from tank cloging injectors. Spray asome carb cleaner into intake see if it lights. If yes then injectors

thank you i will try tonight. but also i am getting fuel to the engine i pulled the spark plugs out and from me trying to start it and trouble shooting they had fuel on them from it being flooded... i will pay you if we figure this out.

The injectors can also be stuck open from debris. That would flood engine. Do you have acess to a fuel pressuer gague? If yes hook up see what pressure is whlie cranking then it should hold pressure after stop cranking. If not they are leaking.

WELL ANOTHER THING IS I PUSH STARTED IT AND IT STARTED AND IDLED FOR ABOUT A MIN AND I GOT IN THE CAR AND AS SOON AS I MASHED THE GAS IT SHUT OFF. I HAVE A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE BUT I COULDNT FIND THE PLACE TO HOOK IT UP ON MY INTEGRA. I HAVE INTAKE CLEANER SO I WILL DEFINATLEY TRY THAT. SO IF THEY ARE STUCK OPEN THEN THE CAR SHOULD STILL TURN OVER RIGHT. IT IS CRANKING BUT NOT TURNING OVER. ----WHEN YOU MASH THE GAS WHILE IT IS CRANKING IT BACKFIRES JUST A SMALL BIT--LIKE TRIES TO START BUT DOESN'T YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN

YOU THINK IT COULD BE THE ESM/COMPUTER

Need an adapter to check pressure at the banjo fitting. Would not think ECM. Try new plugs see if it runs and put inj. cleaner in tank maybe if you get it running you can flush out debris.

well i have to get it off the side of the road some how tonight and i will spray some intake cleaner in there and some starter fluid and try and get it to start and clean it out. if that doesnt work maybe it did not run out of gas, you think? maybe it had a malfuntion? the only problem is if it doesnt start not many people will not tow it because i lowered it. thank you for the help hopefully we will get this car going... she is beautiful!!!!

found a tow but not until morning. i will try what we discussed on the side of the road tonight. we will talk soon. i will let you know either way. if not we will figure it out i apprecite all the help
rich

Keep in touch we got more things to try will get you back on the road.

i have not tried it yet i had to move into my house last night. i am off sunday so i will do it then if not before. any other sugestions before i start working on it. i do not have any internet connection at my new home yet, so i will have to just do many things.

ok.. i tried what we talked about. sprayed starter fluid and no start.. i progress to check the compression and it was at 100 and stayed. no problem with compression. i went to check spark again and i am getting spark with the spark plug in the wire. even if it was a fuel problem it should have atleast tried to start. nothing just turning but no start. i also checked my timing belt. took the valve cover off and it is tight. i turned the engine over with it off and the belt is tight and turning. i am stuck. lets try something else i don even know

I see Docfixit has been giving you great advice.


It is receiving fuel and spark correct? In the original post you stated that you replaced the battery because it was dead, so how about the alternator? Have you tested the charging system sense stall out on highway?




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Hi there,

Compression is NOT OK. Minimum required is 135 psi.

Due to the flooding and long storage the rings might be dry resulting in the compression drop.

Remove the spark plugs, diconnect the distributor wireharness, pump some engine oil into plug hole and crank the engine. Do a compression test again and if compression is higher than 135 psi, try restarting. Repeat with additional oil into cylinder. If compression does not increase much, check valve clearance.

my charging system is fine. my compression built up to 90 while cranking over but no leak. so are you say ing it is vapor locked. i have used transmission oil to unlock a hydro locked motor. the motor is turning over though. how much oil in each piston hole and if i gain compression and it starts then what........ change the oil????? i am going to do this tonight. i got to get this car on the road my wife and i have only one working car now. i mean i was just driving and down shifted and it like died on me....acted like it ran out of fuel.

Hi KHLow is right compression to low. Put about 10cc oil crank recheck compression. Tell us if it went up.

thanks doc. i will do it when i get home tonight. late shift. if the compression doesn't change that means head problems and if it does it is ring problems, correct?

The way the engine died could be due to a skipped tooth of one of the camshafts if the timing belt tension is loose.

I would suggest rechecking that as it would cause low compression as well.

Correcto that is what we are try to isolate. KHLow was on it with long storage and rings being dry. The oil shot will tell if valves are not the problem and may very well correct low compression.

thanks doc i will talk to you tomorrow and we will go from there. may just start up never know

if the head is bad.....i may want to go with a v-tec head or you think it is just better to get the stock head rebuilt or just replace the engine???? if i go v-tec do i need a new ecu? harness? alt.? or just put the head on?

[quote:a122fe7cf1="richmcneal"]if the head is bad.....i may want to go with a v-tec head or you think it is just better to get the stock head rebuilt or just replace the engine???? if i go v-tec do i need a new ecu? harness? alt.? or just put the head on?[/quote:a122fe7cf1]

An ls-vtec is a major job my friend.

You will need to machine the v-tec head to accept the larger NON-VTEC dowell pins, you will need to thread and put a plug into the main oil gallery for the cylinder head,then run an external oil line from your oil pressure sensor into the back of the cylinder head (you will need to purchase $120 SS line plus fittings for this). Then you will need to do a v-tec timing belt AND water pump, ARP head studs, and you will need to convert to an obd1 ECU and get it tuned by a professional on a software such as neptune, hondata, etc.

I'm sure I am missing a few small pieces of info needed, but an ls-vtec just isn't a straight plug and play.

To do a proper compression test on these motors, unplug the ECM F/I fuse in the underhood fuse box (15A), remove all four spark plugs so that there is no extra resistance on the motor while cranking. First do a dry test (meaning no oil in the cylinder) right down your recording. Place a capful of oil into the cylinder and re-test. Record all your numbers and post them up for us. Also, hold the throttle down while compression testing.

thanks for the info on ls v-tec. if the motor needs replaced or whatever i will just get factory parts. i did not get to check the compression yesterday as a friend was using my compression tester. i will definatley get it done today as i get off at 4. also if i went with a gsr engine my intake, header, catback, etc. would not go on correct either, correct?
Thanks,
rich

The header and exhaust would work. You might have to get some slight exhaust work to bolt the header to the catalytic convertor.

The intake will not work, the GS-R intake manifold is a bread all on its own..

ok, just put a capfull of oil into each cylinder through the head. my compression went from 90 to about 180, so it doubled. so i ut the plugs in and tried to start it and it went to start but didnt. so i pulled the plugs back out. as i suspected they were soacked with oil. they can not give sark with oil on them. so i cleaned them with starter fluid. how do i make it where they wont get the oil on them so i can see if it will atleast start. what is the problem
thanks
rich

Crank it let it sit oil will go past rings. then shoot a little carb cleaner in each cyl. Crank and then put plugs in. Put engine on TDC #1 does it line up want to see if T belt is O.K.

timing belt is fine i already checked that first. i will check again tonight or in the morning though. i let the oil sit overnight..that should be long enough???? i tried starting again after about 2 hours and the plugs just got soaked with oil again. can not spark if they are wet......what else do i need to check besides the timing belt???

Over night should do the trick and oil will lube rings to bring compresion back. Even with new plugs oil will cause carbon tracing carb cleaner O.K. but will still track up ceramic to ground. May nneed new plugs

ok...doc, i went this morning before i ut the plugs back in and rechecked the compression on all 4 cylinders this time #1 130 #2 90 #3 70 and #4 190.....what is the problem. i ut the plugs in and no start??????is my engine bad.

so my main question is i guess is it engine problems or something else. do i need to rebuild the engine or replace it? or can mine be fixed?

Yes rings are shot you can rebuild if you do the work and send necessary things to machine shop you might spend @$800. A shop will probably be $2000 to $3000. You can get a low milage engine from Japan for @$1500 plus labor to R&R. Get some estimates that will help you decide.

ok well thank you DOC. you are the man. i am a mechanic myself so i will be doing the work my self. and website you would recommend to get an engine from for cheap.....i found one for 800 with 100,000 miles on it. which isn't to bad. one question though. if i rebuild the engine would it run faster?????

Try www.nihonmotors.com
If you rebuilt would be like a new engine and you may have cam options and piston choices to bump up horsepower.
Seems like the F4I-guy is rather knowledgable maybe you could pm him and get his input.
Good luck let me know how it turns out