Car will not start

If that is the resistance you got between terminals A and B, that is perfect. The secondary resistance between terminal A and the secondary tower resistance should be between 12,800 19,200 ohms at 68 degrees, so it sounds like the coil is good. Here is a picture if it helps:

Now, is the igniter working properly. Follow these directions to check it: 1) Remove the distributor cap and rotor. 2) Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green, and blue wires from the igniter . 3) Turn ignition on. Check for power between the black/yellow wire and ground. If voltage does not exist, check for an open between the igniter and the ignition switch. If there is power move on to number four. 4) Check for power between white/blue wire and ground. If no power exist, check the wire for damage. If there is power, move on to next step. 5) Unplug the PCM wiring harness and check for continunity in the green/yellow wire between the PCM and the ignitor. Also, check continunity of the blue wire between the ignitor and tachometer. 6) Replace or repair wiring as necessary. If there are no wiring problems, replace the ignitor. Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. These types of problems can be difficult but I think the ignitor is the problem. Let me know what you find. Keep in mind, if they removed the PCM wiring harness, it may not be properly reinstalled. Thanks for using 2carpros.com and happy new year! Joe

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual 147,000 miles

my car will not start. it sounds like it wants to but it does not start. the battery is good it gets power. sounds like it might be the fuel pump. it turned off while driving and will not start. what could it be?

Do below to determine if its fuel or spark issue then comeback with results asap.

Get a starting fluid or ether and spray into the carburetor or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and shut off? If not disconnect a spark plug wire or two and ground it to the engine. have helper crank engine over, do you have a snapping blue spark? If so, you have a fuel related problem. check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors.

I got this car used it is the LS and about three months ago i starting have probably. I got told that i need a new distributor and no fire. now i find out that the engine is a CRV tack read 0 and no fire. what could be wrong. did i burn the PCM up because of the distributor? what is not told and i did not know.

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors.

Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 175,000 miles

I turn the ignition several times and did not get any sound at all and the fourth time, the car started.

You need to check the battery terminals. They call them terminals and I think it is because their life should be terminated. They get bad, corrode and need to be cleaned and/or replaced. Start there.

Hello, My car is not starting up, my engine cranks but it does not start, there is spark and when I turn the key to the on position the check light engine does not come on and also I do not the hear the fuel pump prime. But when I open the tank I hear the pressure relieving. Please and than you for the help.

If you want I could upload a picture of the dash fuse box and hood fuse box.

check all fuses with a test light.

no check engine light is a clue for a bad PCM.

Roy

Bad PCM? I looked at the fuse diagram that under the dash and the fuses that say 7.5 amps have fifteen amp fuses if that is normal. But they all work.

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual

when i try to crank it it cranks but it will not start. i replaced the distributor and the plug wires, but it still will not start. it is getting fuel, and all wires are firing and they are in the correct order.

try running a compression check on all four cylinders the compression should be between150 psi to 175 psi may be a little higher or a little lower, but they should all be some what close to each other.
If you have a cylinder with low compression try putting a little engine oil down the the spark plug tube then check the compression again if it builds up on that cylinder you probably have a burnt valve.
Double check and make sure every thing is correct before checking this step and all the electrical connectors are connected and as well as the ground strap behind the distributor on the thermostat housing.

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 153,000 miles

when i put my key into ignition and try to crank it, it makes a click noise. it does not even crank at all. after about ten tries or most times even more it will crank and turn on. on rare occasions it will not do this but most of the time it does this. it is a "click" sound. is it my starter?

Yes, based on your description, a starter would be the most likely cause.

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 135,480 miles

I live in Houston and a couple of months ago there was a big storm and it rained for three days non-stop and there where floods every where. One day my girl was driving back from school and supposedly she did not see a big puddle in the middle of the road so she ran straight into it. The tow truck got it out in less then twenty minutes and took it to the body shop where I work and I drained the engine oil because water got in there and replaced the spark plugs and wires and it was running fine for about four months and now it does not want to start. The battery is about nine months old. I recently took off the started and took it to Autozone to get it checked and it is working fine. I checked the ground wires and all of them are fine. We tried jumping it, but it will not turn over. And when I took it to Autozone I explained to the guy what happened and he said it could be the ECU. Do you know what could be wrong with it?

Hi acardenas30518,

Here is a link with comprehensive explanation on what to look out for. check it out and let me know if you require additional assistance.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/first_things.htm

.

My car will not start. It cranks but does not start. It has fuel compression and spark. What is wrong with it?

If it had the right amount of each it would be running so you need to do some more in depth testing.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That is what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the information required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the positive terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

That is exactly what I have done so far and everything checks out just fine. I recently replaced the water pump and as soon as I had that in, the car refused to start.

It has failed something there.

Timing belt jumped a few teeth or was not put on properly.

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual

well i recently was driving on the freeway and my car start to jerk and somewhat stall and then shut off. it would not start so i had it towed to my house. the next day i went out and took off the distributor and put it back on and it started right up, but when i go to 2000 rpm it bogs and shuts off and will not start.so i repeat the process and take off the distributor and put it back on and it does the same thing. i replaced the distributor cap and rotor, but no luck.

Hi there, i would be checking the plugs and leads and coil. also, check fuel pressure and get a scan done to check for any unresolved fault codes. start here.

Mark (mhpautos)

well i replaced the spark plugs and wires on Thursday and when i put the distributor on i cannot tighten the bottom screw or the car shuts off and will not start.

Hi there, i can only think that there is a problem with in the distributor, and when a good earth is made when the distributor is tightened up it is causing a short. i would be checking the distributor next.

Mark (mhpautos)

i cleanrf the spring and the inside where the spring sits on the igniter coil and it is all good now.
thanks

Hi there, okay, that is good news. thank you for using 2carpros.

Mark (mhpautos)

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 184,000 miles

car will not start in the morning when it has been really cold outside the night before. when you turn the key, all you hear is a clicking sound.

Hi there,
Start with checking the battery with a load test, this will give a true indication as to the condition of the battery. Check all terminals are clean and tight. check for twelve volts at starter solenoid when key is on crank, if okay check for faulty starter.

mark (mhpautos)

My fuel pump is pumping, but it will not start. please tell me what is going on?

That is what I should be asking you. Have you checked for spark? Timing? Compression? Diagnostic fault codes?

By "not start", do you mean the starter does not crank the engine, or it cranks the engine but it will not run?

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 155,000 miles

My car does not start right away in the morning, you can hear the click. The car lights turn on I know it is not the battery.

Sounds like the starter motor. Have it tested. Also, ensure that all your power and ground connections are corrosion free.

When car is started it will not move when in gear or stall when I let the clutch go like it is not in any gear and if it is turned off It will not start, like it has dead battery.

The clutch is bad and the "neutral start switch" (on clutch pedal support) needs attention.

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual 160,000 miles

The fuse keeps going off and the car does not start.

Hi acuralover95, I would like you to indicate to me which fuse is blowing from the two diagrams below and the rated ampere.