engine sputters

The instrument cluster codes have no bearing on engine performance. I can tell you that the most common failure on these trucks with this engine is the 1. coil 2. spark plug wires 3. spark plugs. I see it over and over again, but the best thing to start is a code retrieval from the powertrain control module (PCM). Here is a guide that can help understand the system:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Hi from Donn1,

I went by AutoZone to have my codes read. They said they are not allowed into anybody's car, but I can use their code reader. I tried to use it, nothing. They said unless the check engine light is on, their code reader won't work. So I bought plug wires, plugs, and a coil. After replacing all these. The truck still drove as before, like it had water in the gas. Any other parts to try? Thanks, Donn1

Is you check engine light on? It sounds like you may have a weak fuel pump or a MAF sensor going out. Those codes make no sense. To be sure lets do a CAN scan which is the future of automotive repair you can get a CAN scanner from Amazon for about $50.00. here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

Hi from Donn1,

Since I posted the question, I found out this is Ford's way to access the info, turn ignition on while pressing down on reset button, info starts showing on digital odometer panel. codes were p0156, p1000, p0117, p0130, p0255. No check engine light on.
I put fuel pump tester on fuel rail, turned ignition on very little pressure, turned ignition off then on, it read 30, I started the engine, gauge read 30, and stayed at that pressure. I wanted to check the vacuum regulator, but it took some time to track it down, then it wasn't easy to check, so that wasn't checked. I shut engine off and gauge fell to zero after 1-1/2 minutes.
According to the manual I was looking at, it was supposed to hold gauge pressure for 5 minutes.
So this is where I am now, what do you recommend?
thanks, Donn1

it sounds like the fuel pump is going out. here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Thanks for the info. I ordered a new fuel pump, I am still waiting for it to come in. Since this is my only way to go, I still drive it. There is a certain way to drive it, gas has got to be given gently. When I start it in the morning, when it is cold, it runs good but about a mile it starts to miss, after going down an incline. It doesn't miss going up a hill or incline. I rigged a fuel pump gauge up to read it while driving, it would increase slightly to 35 to 37 PSI on the pump gauge as I drove. Thanks for the help, Donn1

No problem, when the tank is out please look inside with a flashlight to make sure it is clean and without water.

Hey Ken. help, a family member of my wife, scanned my truck and read a bad cam sensor, well he took the sensor out and the synchronizer came out too. He didn't bring #1 up and he didn't mark the position. With it out, can I bring up #1 piston to TDC, and using an alignment tool re-install the sensor? Or can I just drop it back in without bringing up #1 TDC?
Thanks, Donn1

Did you mark the synchronizer before you removed it? if not then you will need to put the engine on TDC and then align the synchronizer. Here are the instructions. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

I followed the advice, and the truck runs good, if it is off, would it set a code? how would it run, if set wrong?
thanks, Donn1

it would set a code and the the engine will ping or have low power if the synchronizer was off.

thanks for the reply. also the problem with my truck that acted like water was in the fuel tank, actually, it was the cam sensor that caused this. thanks, Donn1