Acceleration problem - Engine low power?

This sounds like the car is going into limp mode which could be due to a dirty throttle body these guides should help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.

Starts fine, drives for a short distance, revs up and then completely loses acceleration. Once I've stopped for a few seconds, then it accelerates fine again after a short stall, except runs at 4-5 rpms, depending on speed.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Honestly, my first suspect is fuel pressure. However, if the check engine light is staying on when the engine is running, you should scan the computer to determine what diagnostic trouble codes are stored. Here is a quick video showing how that is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner. In that case, most parts stores will do it for free. If the light is on, have that done and let me know what you find.

Next, I would suggest checking fuel pressure. Here is a link that shows how it is done in general. What I have seen over the years is when the pressure gets too low, it changes the air fuel mixture in the engine. I have seen them rev high when this happens.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions for testing fuel pressure specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

____________________________

FUEL PRESSURE

Work Procedure


FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE


1. FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE

With CONSULT
1.Turn ignition switch ON.
2.Perform "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" in "WORK SUPPORT" mode of "ENGINE" using CONSULT.
3.Start engine.
4.After engine stalls, crank it two or three times to release all fuel pressure.
5.Turn ignition switch OFF.
Without CONSULT
1.Remove fuel pump fuse located in IPDM E/R.
2.Start engine.
3.After engine stalls, crank it two or three times to release all fuel pressure.
4.Turn ignition switch OFF.
5.Reinstall fuel pump fuse after servicing fuel system.
- END

FUEL PRESSURE CHECK


CAUTION:
- Before disconnecting fuel line, release fuel pressure from fuel line to eliminate danger.
- The fuel hose connection method used when taking fuel pressure check must not be used for other purposes.
- Be careful not to scratch or put debris around connection area when servicing, so that the quick connector maintains sealability with O-rings inside.
- Do not perform fuel pressure check with electrical systems operating (i.e. lights, rear defogger, A/C, etc.) Fuel pressure gauge may indicate false readings due to varying engine load and changes in manifold vacuum.
NOTE:
Prepare pans or saucers under the disconnected fuel line because the fuel may spill out. The fuel pressure cannot be completely released because this models do not have fuel return system.

1. FUEL PRESSURE CHECK

1.Release fuel pressure to zero.

Picture 1

2.Prepare fuel hose for fuel pressure check (B) and fuel tube adapter [SST: KV1011840] (D), then connect fuel pressure gauge (A).


Picture 2


CAUTION:
- Use suitable fuel hose for fuel pressure check (genuine
NISSAN fuel hose without quick connector).
- To avoid unnecessary force or tension to hose, use moderately long fuel hose for fuel pressure check.
- Do not use the fuel hose for checking fuel pressure with damage or cracks on it.
- Use Pressure Gauge to check fuel pressure.
3.Remove fuel hose.

CAUTION:
Do not twist or kink fuel hose because it is plastic hose.


Picture 3

4.Connect fuel hose for fuel pressure check to fuel tube with clamp as shown in the figure.


Picture 4


CAUTION:
- Wipe off oil or dirt from hose insertion part using cloth moistened with gasoline.
- Apply proper amount of gasoline between top of the fuel tube and No. 1 spool .
- Insert fuel hose for fuel pressure check until it touches the No. 1 spool on fuel tube.
- Use NISSAN genuine hose clamp (part number: 16439
N4710 or 16439 40U00).
- When reconnecting fuel line, always use new clamps.
- Use a torque driver to tighten clamps.
Tightening 1 - 1.5 Nm (0.1 - 0.15 kg-m, 9 - 13 in-lb)
torque:
- Install hose clamp to the position within 1 - 2 mm (0.04 - 0.08 in).
- Make sure that clamp screw does not contact adjacent parts.


Picture 5

5.Connect fuel tube adapter to quick connector.


Picture 6

After connecting fuel hose for fuel pressure check, pull the hose with a force of approximately 98 N (10 kg, 22 lb) to confirm high pressure fuel pump does not come off.
6.Turn ignition switch ON and check for fuel leakage.
7.Start engine and check for fuel leakage.
8.Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.

CAUTION:
- Do not perform fuel pressure check with system operating. Fuel pressure gauge may indicate false readings.
- During fuel pressure check, confirm for fuel leakage from fuel connection every 3 minutes.

At idling : Approximately 350 kPa (3.5 bar, 3.57 kg/cm2, 51 psi)

Is the inspection result normal?
YES- INSPECTION END
NO- GO TO 2.

2. CHECK FUEL HOSES

Check the following.
- Fuel hoses for clogging
- Fuel filter for clogging
- Fuel pump
- Fuel pressure regulator for clogging
Is the inspection result normal?
YES- Replace fuel pressure regulator.
NO- Repair or replace error-detected parts.

____________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Joe

At times while I am driving my car it will start to slow down on the acceleration even when flooring it I am only getting to sixty mph? I have had it checked and mechanic says everything seems fine with motor and transmission. Had spark plugs changed and added sea foam to gas and still having the same issue. When mechanic has vehicle it never seems to duplicate the issue! Has anyone else had this issue?

did the mechanic get any live data with a road test? any codes set? Are the brakes hanging on at all?

No when doing road test car runs fine for mechanic. There are no error codes either and not sure what you mean about the brakes?

brakes may be dragging causing sluggish response. otherwise you will have to drive and test when car acts up. if it is not faulting it is very hard to say what is going on. just double check all tune and transmission related items for any faults.

My car Nissan Versa 2012 Accelerating in P and N Mode but not Accelerating in driver mode no Engine light appear mechanic told me it's gear box fault I have change gear box assembly and I have cleaned throttle body also but still same problem.

Car is not accelerating in drive mode CVT gear box.

Good morning,

The shop is correct. There are clutches in the transmission that apply in a certain position. The forward clutches are frozen applied.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

The only alternative is to replace the transmission.

Roy

Transmission already replace, but still same problem is there; no accelerating in drive mode.

Okay, new or used transmission?

How long ago was the transmission replaced?

Roy

Hello,

If I can chime in here. it sounds like the car is in limp mode. lets run the codes and service the throttle bore. here are two guides to help us see what's going on:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please run down these guides and report back.

first, I was driving a straight highway and noticed my car would go over sixty miles per hour, the radio stop playing and air worked sometimes. My friend told me I needed a throttle sensor. It was ordered and my friend installed it. After that it would not crank and later we tried and it cranked but would not continue to run. I cannot afford to take it to a mechanical shop and I am trying to get some answers.

check battery for condition first including load test most places do for free. then try a security system reset may be the problem. especially if terminal ends are dirty/corroded. See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Hi SNELSON62,

If you decide to check the condition of your battery yourself HMAC300 suggested, here is a link to helpful information from this site that features written instructions, pictures and a video explaining how to load test your battery yourself. If you need further assistance please come back to 2CarPros.com. We are always happy to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

Hi,
I had a case of a faulty alternator and someone attempted to jumpstart my car, for some reason, i couldn't tell the exact sequence but the NATS light came on and would prevent the car from starting.
After many checks and wrong diagnosis by unskilled hands, I replaced my crankshaft and camshaft position sensors but the car still won't start.
Eventually had to replace the ECM, BCM and reprogram my key. At the moment, the car would experience a severe hard start and come on. Idle is normal, the tachometer would respond to acceleration when in park but when in drive, it struggles to rev above 3,000 rpm's and barely gets to 80 mph, there is a P0335 error that when cleared, the car moves as it should, once it comes on, i face the rev issues again.
Any ideas what to check for?

Good morning,

Did you have both the ECM and the BCM programmed to your car? That is mandatory.

Is the 335 code still active?

Roy

Hello,

Yes, both ECM and BCM are programmed to car.
The 335 code is still active, when i clear the error code, it drives and accelerates as normal and after a drive cycle, the check engine light comes back on and the acceleration is limited.

A drive cycle? How long are you driving it?

If the 335 is still active there is something in the circuit causing this code to stay active.

Did you replace the crank sensor with an OEM sensor?

Roy

Hi Roy,

Yes, it was replaced with OEM sensor.
I tried over three to four sensors but the hard start on its own is persistent.

The drive time varies, but usually within five to ten minutes at max before the check engine light resurfaces.

Do you have a real scan tool that can monitor live voltages?

Roy

P0335
Descriptor
Probable Causes
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 2
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor Circuit Shorted
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control System Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Shorted
Signal Plate (Flywheel)

I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra. I had an oil change and fuel injection cleaning done yesterday, and now my car won't rev above 2800 rpms in third gear. I can eventually get up to interstate speeds, but I have no power. If I try to set cruise control, the Set light on the dashboard blinks and nothing happens. I can push the accelerator to the floor and the engine will not rev. Can you tell me what has happened and suggest a fix?

Check converter

I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8L which seems to be giving me trouble in regards to idling with high RPMs and with ack of power when accelerating. When I turn on my car it will increase the rpm's to 3000 rpms, and then shoot down to about 1500 rpms in a matter of 15 seconds. I have tried to get some feedback in regards to this with no luck. In regards to acceleration, my car does not seem to wanna accelerate smoothly without shooting up the rpm's to 3500-4000 when they should be at 1500-2000 for the speed I was going. What could these problems indicate? Please help me!

Have the throttle position sensor checked. It sounds like it isn't properly shifting. Also, at the same time have the idle air control valve checked.

While in the highway, my brake light and battery light came on together. After pulling over, I determined that my brake fluid was between the two lines. I did not have the ability to test the battery voltage; the battery was replaced two years ago. About 25 miles later, the car began having difficulty accelerating. The engine starts and there are no problems idling. I’m wondering what is the most likely source of the problem?

Hello,

This sounds like you could have a problem with your vehicle's throttle body. Over time and through normal wear and tear your vehicle's throttle and throttle body get black gunk on it that throws your vehicle's Throttle Position Sensor out of wack and your vehicle's Power-train Control Module gets a mixed signal, sending it into "limp mode" with reduced power. This is done so you can drive it to a repair shop and get it fixed. Here is a link below for you to go to:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-throttle-body-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

started of with bucking while starting off.. i changed the oil and air filter...also got code to change camshaft position sensor, did that, now it sounds like my air intake is super loud, and i have no power, when going from 0- 15 takes about the sametime it would a riding lawn mower to do so...the bucking stoped but its super sluggish and even with foot to floor, it just barely moves, doesnt feel like tranny problem because its still responsive just really slow

Thanks for the analogy of the lawn tractor, I needed a good laugh.

As far as the power, has the check engine light come back on? Have you checked the catylatic converter to see if it is plugged? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

Let me know.

Joe