Air conditioner system

2001 NISSAN FRONTIER
90,000 MILES • 2.4L • 4 CYL • 2WD • MANUAL
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Have not used the air conditioner for a few years because of extremely loud noise coming from compressor. Plan to finally get it fixed. I was going to get a compressor online with drier. Is there a good chance of lots of debris in system since it has not been used so that a new condenser? Would probably be needed? I did turn it on recently for a few minutes and the air was getting a little cool inside. Or do you think I may be able to get away with just these parts, new O-rings, flushing lines and recharging the system?
Jun 12, 2016 at 11:06 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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No, replace the condenser and when you get it up and running, make sure the cooling fan is working properly.
Jun 13, 2016 at 2:15 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Thanks so much for your quick reply, Wrenchtech! Been looking at videos and reading articles. Some say to dump the oil that comes in a new compressor to check amount, than put back in, some say to add an additional 1/2 oz, some say to put half the oil into compressor, other half into new drier. The kits for my truck come with drier and expansion valve (sites say that is on the firewall, but I do not see it). Some sites talk about a filter or orifice tube, is the expansion valve in place of both of them on my truck? I am also seeing different methods of flushing the system. What do you recommend? Thanks.
Jun 13, 2016 at 7:22 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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First you have to determine if your new compressor came with oil or not and how much. The packaging should tell you. If it comes with a full charge I usually leave it there. If not, I put about four ounces in the compressor and other two during the charge (vacuum). You cannot flush through an expansion valve so you might as well forget that. Maybe flush the hoses you have off. Be sure to rotate the compressor at least ten revolutions once hoses are hooked up to purge the oil out.
Jun 13, 2016 at 7:31 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Thanks Wrenchtech, Seems most of the kits for my truck come with an expansion valve and they say to replace it, suppose to be before evaporator on firewall, but I do not see it there so wondering if it is inside car (Oyyy). I cannot find any information on location online. So if compressor comes full of oil, than I do not need to add it to drier either by what you are saying. Thanks again so much.
Jun 13, 2016 at 7:57 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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I would try it without the valve. That is a pretty big job to change and it is probably okay.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:02 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Oh, I just watched a video by Scott Kilmer and he showed one in a Toyota that you had to access thru the glove compartment. So if I find mine there I suppose it is a good idea to replace it, no? Should I remove the evaporator and flush it out of the truck? Thanks.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:04 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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I am going to give you one piece of advice that you need to heed. Delete Scotty Kilmer from everything you have.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:08 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Wrenchtech, I watched this video and replied before I saw your other answer. I always read up and research before doing any kind of work on cars or whatever so I do them properly, but it does seem like some people cut corners and I guess sometimes they are okay to cut. I really appreciate your help. I see they sell recharges kits at auto stores, but also watched this great video by ChrisFix on youtube of how to use an air conditioner manifold. Wonder if the auto parts stores have that available to rent? Or would the recharge kit be okay to just use.. Still need to vacuum out the system well first it seems. Thanks.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:11 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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There certainly are some crazy videos out there by people who do not know much and do not do a decent video, but he did not seem like that to me. I mean he explained how you cannot try and flush modern condensers which made sense. May I ask why you feel that way? Thanks.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:16 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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There are a few professionals out there that give good advice but Scotty kilmer is not one of them. He is a running joke between techs with some of the things he tells people to do.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:26 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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I discovered Autozone does indeed rent out the air conditioner manifold and vacuum to recharge system, but not a flush kit. What would you recommend as the best procedure to flush out my lines? Thanks so much Wrenchtech.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:31 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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The only thing you could flush would be the hoses and they wont have anything in them. Just blow them out with compressed air. You are changing the condenser and that is where everything collects anyway.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:42 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Well that said, should I even disconnect them everywhere to change O rings or only at the compressor and drier? Thanks Wrenchtech. Really appreciate all your quick responses.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:50 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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Unless you are aware of a leak somewhere, just disconnect what you need to to change what you have.
Jun 13, 2016 at 8:55 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Thanks Wrenchtech, I still need to order the compressor. I was thinking of going to Pepboys for their free air conditioner check and suppose they can see if a leak shows up by the pressure? Than ask them to remove the refrigerant. Is it okay to do that now or should I wait til right before I do the job? If the coolant comes out, there would still be oil in line protecting all, correct? Thanks.
Jun 13, 2016 at 9:13 AM
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WRENCHTECH
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Recovering the refrigerant will not hurt anything if the system is still sealed.
Jun 13, 2016 at 9:16 AM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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So I went to Pepboys, & they asked it if was running warm, I said cools some, but compressor noisy & that said no need to test system.. But they did remove it for me & supposedly it was low, they got out 1.3lb. Now online it seems to show I should have 25oz of R134a & PAG100 6.75 oz, however on the tag on hood it says HFC134a 0.65 +- 0.05kg/1.43 +- .11 lb. Nissan Luminous Oil Type R KLH00-PAGR 0 6.8oz/200cc. I spoke with one auto part store that said the Nissan R oil is PAG 46. I want to mention also that I live in hot sunny Tucson, Az. & have read that you are suppose to run the AC system every month even in winter even for a few minutes so orings stay lubricated & don't dry out causing leaks.. I just want things to go smoothly with this job. (I did order the compressor kit today). Any more words of wisdom to help me figure out these fluids? Thanks, Wrenchtech.
Jun 13, 2016 at 4:39 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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It may not be perfect but I use PAG46 in everything and haven't had any failures. I live in South Florida so I do a lot of AC work.
The capacity I'm showing is Capacity 0.60 - 0.70 kg (1.32 - 1.54 lb) That translates to 24.6 max oz so i would put 24oz.
Jun 13, 2016 at 4:46 PM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Oh, Wrenchtech, I guess the heat is getting me. I was stupidly thinking 1.43 (oz) +- .11 lb. but of course (ding ding light in head), 1.43 lb +- .11, so getting 1.3 out of it really was not that far off .13 & his gauge could have been off, or how he read it, I was trying to discuss the tag with him & he said 'Oh, I was looking at it but could not read it'. LOL
Jun 13, 2016 at 4:47 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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Those machines are not totally accurate in recovery amounts. I have filled cars and immediately recovered less than I put in according to the machine.
Jun 13, 2016 at 4:49 PM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Wrenchtech, Sure seems they sell alot more PAG 100 around here & I was checking some prices at Autozone, they list some that must be gold! PAG 46 8 oz. for $56., 68. 75. & even a 6 oz for $176.!!!!! Unless these are strange typos... But did find some 8oz for $9-10. though there was a charging one of 3oz for $7. So they come with or without UV dye & some come with ICE. Than the R134a most come 12 oz. plain $10, with dye $20., with ICE $19. with stop leak $15-20. Do I want oil with dye & 134 with ice or sealant or just plain? Thanks.
Jun 13, 2016 at 5:20 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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Definitely no sealant
No ice
Dye is a good idea to help find any leaks later..
Jun 13, 2016 at 5:23 PM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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You wonder why they sell all those options, just to make more money for stuff we don't need but people think they do?
Jun 13, 2016 at 5:25 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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If they can talk somebody into buying it, they will sell it. We're up to 3 pages on this now and you haven't even stated the job yet so I'm going to be away for a while.
Jun 13, 2016 at 5:29 PM
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CAROL KLAMERUS
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Hi Wrenchtech, so I worked on my project on Sat. Compressor came out easily, oil was clean in it, drier was clean also as well as the lines. Added oil to drier, & new orings to lines, compressor in. Than hooked up manifold gauges & vacuum pump, seemed to hold pressure like should, but when trying to charge, compressor would not kick in, even trying to bypass with drier switch & was not pulling in any refrigerant.. After some time we looked at the manifold, some orings looked iffy but I think the real problem was the connectors to high & low side were not opening the schrader valves. We tried a can with a hose & it started filling up.. After needing to visit a few Auto Zones finally got a decent manifold & restarted process. This time compressor kicked in quickly & got it charged up. (It amazes & saddens me that AZ is providing these tools for us to rent for FREE & people just abuse them although perhaps the workers also don't maintain the equip.) Anyway I do notice often when starting the AC a squeal for about 5-10 seconds. Don't want any issues with my new compressor. Wondering if it is my belt tensioner & need to replace that?
Jun 21, 2016 at 4:08 PM
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WRENCHTECH
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I don't have a picture of the belt system but I think it is a manual tensioner that is adjustable. It sound like the belt needs to be tightened a little.
Jun 21, 2016 at 4:14 PM