A/C not working?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

It could be a few different things. O-rings can leak, a loose connection, or one of the lines. What I need you to do is follow the directions in this link. It explains how to find a leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

This video can help as well

https://youtu.be/4UjfQKvrB6Y

Please run down these guides and report back.

Clutch not engaging

Things I have done
1. Checked fuses
2. Recovered system charge and recharged 2.53 lbs
3. Replaced pressure switch

Could be many things, first you must see if you are getting power and ground to the compressor while turned on. Unplug the connection at the compressor turn the key and the air conditioner on and make sure you have power and ground that's where to start. If you have power and ground then its a bad clutch, if not you probably have to take it to a shop to have many other things to checked.

You might want to use a scan tool to look at the data for the air conditioner pressure switch to see if it looks correct. It has a 3 wire switch that delivers a specific pressure to the PCM and the system will shut down if that pressure is too high or too low.,

About a month ago, my battery had drained out. so I went to replace it. While replacing it I accidentally touched the wrong battery terminals (positive to negative) (negative to positive). I then realized my mistake and properly connected the battery. After reconnecting the battery, I noticed my radio was off and my A/C was blowing warm air. So I took it to my mechanic and he realized that I had blown the fuse for the radio but all others were fine, and he replaced it. The radio along with everything else worked fine but the A/C still wasn’t cooling right away. After starting the car again the A/C began blowing perfectly cold and was fine after that.

Later that evening I noticed that the A/C was not cooling once again and took it back to my mechanic but he was unable to solve the problem. I then went to another mechanic and got the TIPM replaced and that still did not solve the problem. But I noticed after that the A/C would blow cold air sometimes or for a minute and then go right back to warm.

I really would like to know what exactly is the problem so it can finally be solved.

Hi Tcdeal,

Swapping the battery terminals can really mess things up, I think your lucky that was it for stuff not working. The A/C blowing cold for a short time is interesting, there's a few things to look for to figure out whats happening. Start the car put the A/C on fan on high then go out and watch the compressor. Your looking for the pulley clutch to engage. When it goes on you should here the clutch on it click and the engines rpm's to change from the load the compressor is putting on it. You might be short cycling. meaning it clicks on for a few seconds then back off again. It should click on and stay on. If its clicking on and off again every few seconds even up to 30 seconds its short cycling and something is wrong. Take a look at that and let me know if the clutch is engaging at all and how long its staying on for and we can go from there.

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.

Tom

Hi 4DRTOM,

I did that but didn’t notice the pulley clutch engaging, it looked like the belt around it was moving but not the actual clutch pulley. I didn’t hear any clicks either.

Hello,

Okay, with the clutch not engaging that our issue. First off we need to check all the fuses there is also a sensor and a relay involved involved that are common failures. Here is the wire diagram below. do you have a test light?
Tom

So you will want to check for power the dark blue with yellow wire to be 12v and the other will be ground. Verify its ground is good. If you open the fuse relay box and if you can be out at it and have someone turn on the A/C, a small click should be heard from one of the relays in there, touch them to figure out which one you will be able to feel it. If It clicks the switch is sending signal and it's good if the wire leading to the clutch doesn't get hot its the relay that's bad most likely. If on the dash the A/C light is going on then fuse is good and the system is on.

Here is a full description in the system operation and your plug terminal connection information:

Tom

A/C CLUTCH

The A/C compressor clutch components provide the means to engage and disengage the A/C compressor from the engine accessory drive belt. When the electromagnetic A/C clutch field coil is energized, it magnetically draws the clutch plate into contact with the clutch pulley and drives the compressor shaft. When the coil is not energized, the pulley freewheels on the clutch hub bearing, which is part of the pulley assembly.

A/C compressor clutch engagement is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the Engine Control Module (ECM), depending on engine application. When the A/C-heater control is set to any A/C position, it sends a request signal on the CAN-IHS bus to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), which then transfers the request on the CAN-C Bus to the PCM/ECM, which determines if operating conditions are correct for A/C clutch engagement. When all operating conditions have been met, the PCM/ECM sends a signal on a dedicated hard-wired circuit back to the TIPM to energize the internal A/C clutch high side driver. When energized, the A/C clutch high side driver provides battery current to the A/C clutch coil.

The A/C clutch control system is diagnosed using a scan tool See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Testing and Inspection.

The A/C compressor clutch components cannot be repaired and must be replaced if inoperative or damaged.

Okay, Tcdeal,
Let me know how you make out and if you need anything else or guidance on this issue.
Tom

Okay, 4DRTOM.
I will try these and I will let you know, thanks.

Okay, sounds good. We'll get this figured out.
Tom

2009 Chrysler Town & Country with 40,000 miles. Air conditioner will not blow cold air, only warm. The clutch is not engaging. Disconnected the clip which seems to go to the compressor and checked with volt meter. 11.5 volts after I turn on the key, indifferent of the AC on or not. Connector is tightly wedged between the compressor and the PS pump so I'm not completely sure if its for the AC.

Am I testing the connector for the PS pump or the AC compressor?
If PS, where is the connector for AC compressor?

I read some articles on checking the low pressure switch but they didn't give good details, only looking for corrosion. Is there a way to test it?
Also read some about direct wiring the compressor to see if the clutch will engage. Needed? How?
The connector seems to have the pins sunken inside and not sure how to get wire inside without touching the wires together except for splicing the wire on the back side of the connector. Any recommendations?

I've checked a few things but any help to understand what am I missing as to why the clutch may not be engaging would be very appreciated.

The compressor may not be coming on because the a/c system is low on charge or there is a problem with the a/c running pressure or a bad a/c clutch/compressor.

Lets start with this guide and see what happens

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-how-to-add-freon

This will tell us if the problem is electrical or refrigerant related.

I will check that but are these the wires? there are two wires. One black and the other is Blue and yellow?

Yes those are the wires going to the compressor clutch

I connected my gauge to the low pressure and got nothing a few days ago but I was under the impression that it wouldn't measure right unless the compressor was running. I can check it again if this is not true but I don't have the gauges needed for the high pressure side. Is checking both important at this point?

If the low side reads 0psi with it running or not there is no need to check the high side right now.Thats why the compressor is not comming on atleast one of the reasons.Sounds like you have no charge in your a/c system.

I have checked it again and put some in it. The clutch seems to be engaging now. Do I continue to fill it up while the car is running or do I fill it up with the car turned off?

So was it completly empty?Do you know how much charge it holds?I wish you would have talk to me before charging it.Your going to have to add some charge with dye to find the leak you have.Unless its oil all over and easy to see.Also yes you can charge the a/c with it running on the low side only.

So, if it still needs more charge or leaks out, do you recommend buying the type with the dye and adding instead of adding the can I have? Makes sense, to find the leak.

Dear Friends-

I have twice replaced the compressor and driers and still the front air conditioner blows cold air and the back vents blows hot air. My mechanic could not figure it out why is doing this. I spent too much money on compressor/ labor and facing same issues. He also believes the actuator door and expansion joints are fine. I do not know anything about cars. I will be very grateful to you if anyone give me any suggestions.

Thanks much in advanced.

Kind regards,

TQ

Yes i always put in dye in the system no matter what that way i dont have to recharge with dye later if needed.If it was empty just dont over fill it.If its empty there has to be a leak somewhere.Dont use the gauge to tell when its full that is a inacurate way to fill it.Go by how many ounces in the can you are adding.That only works if the system is empty when you start.

Really the only thing I can think of is it needs a rear expansion valve.

Surprised he did not know that. I hope he did not charge you to change then new compressor again? If the front works good and it is properly charged how can the compressor be bad?

Compressor burnt by another mechanic by putting too much gas. The new compressor put in by another mechanic. thanks much

No replaced the rear expansion valve or thought to replace it?

My AC doesn't work, it just blows out hot air. One repair person said it needed Freon. Another said condenser, and another said something else.

I was told by AC experts that my air conditioner is still under warranty (70,000), but the dealer says no way.

Any suggestions on checking it out myself, or reloading the Freon?

Hi:
I believe the AC runs out with the basic warranty. As far as the problem, I need you to check something for me. Start the engine and open the hood. Locate the AC compressor. Have a helper then turn the system on. You should hear a click from the compressor and the clutch should engage spinning the center of the pulley.

Let me know if that is happening.

Joe

So when i turn the air conditioner on it turns on fine and all, but after five or ten seconds, it turns off, then turns back on, repeatedly for quite some time until it just eventually completely shuts off. It does not turn back on unless I turn the key to off and back to on. I am not sure what is going on, because there is power going to the controls. I am not sure why it turns on and off. Thanks in advance.

The first thing you need to get done is to see what the system pressures are doing, sound as if you my be low on refrigerant and the low pressure switch is cutting in and out, do not just add refrigerant as there is a specific weight that must be added and if it is low there will be a leak that needs to be located and repaired as well, time to look up a A/C tec and get the pressures tested first.

The a/c will not work. it was not cooling well and nothing happens when you hit the switch. Will this happen if it needs recharging?

If it is in need of a recharge you would get air blowing but will not be a cool air
if nothing happening when switch on
check fuses and make sure switch on the selected positions
get the code s
good luck

I have a new Chrysler T&C with 10,000 miles on the odometer. On four different occassions when the outside temp reaches approximately 100F the A/C will blow off the Freon charge emitting a very loud noise and white vapor cloud from underneath the engine. The A/C then blows cool but not cold air. The local dealer will recharge the system but has not fixed the problem because " they can not duplicate the problem while the car is in their shop". How do I get this problem fixed?
Thanks,
Bill Onstott

Hi:

I'm not sure what to tell you, but I think I would start by contacting the zone rep. for your area. You want the problem recorded prior to the warranty running out.

Joe