the car stopped blowing cold air?

Hi,

The evaporator is under the dash on the passenger side of the HVAC box. For access, the heater core will need to be removed. I attached the directions below.

However, take a look through the first three pics. That is a technical service bulletin specific to your vehicle for locating a leak. You may find them helpful.

The remaining pictures are the directions for replacing the evaporator temperature sensor. The sensor is attached to the evaporator. There are no specific directions specific to just the evaporator, so this will get you to it.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Thank you for the information. Do you know where I might be able to gather the information needed to replace the Evap? I'm guessing the entire dash is going to have to come out which is something I've never attempted before. Done just about everything else, but never a dash removal. Thanks again for the information.

Hi,

I went through two manuals that had no directions for the evaporator core, but I did find them. LOL, they are listed with the heater core removal. Ugh!!!

If you look at the first eight pics below, they are the directions. Note that I highlighted something in pic seven.

Now, the directions indicate the removal of the dash pad to access it. All I can tell you is this. The remaining pics are the directions for the removal and replacement of the dash pad. Try not to be overwhelmed.

Pics 8 - 11 are the directions for the removal of the lower dash pad. I'm hoping if you remove that along with the glove box, you should have access. If you don't, the remaining pics are for the main crash pad.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi guys, in addition to the leak that still hasn't been found I've come across an issue that I or by a friend who is a Ford mechanic can't seem to figure out. Real quick rundown. The A/C in the Genesis Coupe has been working fine for the four years we've had it. Well, out of the blue the A/C stopped blowing cold air as the previous week it was working fine. Anyway, my son took the car and my friend purged the system and refilled it with R134, oil, and dye. The air conditioner worked fine for a couple days and then stopped working again, only blowing ambient air. Took it back to my friend who, again, purged the system and refilled with R134, oil, and dye, but after this time the AC still would not blow cool air. My friend said the compressor wasn't cutting on. He tried to get the readings of the pressure sensors on the high and low side but the reader he had wouldn't show the pressures. Checked all of the fuses...all good. Couldn't find a dedicated fuse/relay for the A/C which I thought was odd. I know when I turn the AC switch on the RPMs fluctuate a little like the switch is sending a signal. Any ideas or have any direction to point me in while trying to figure out the new issue? Many thanks' guys for the help.

Hi,

I believe the compressor clutch is actuated by the ECM and not a dedicated fuse/relay. However, let me know if this has automatic or manual climate control. The two schematics are different.

Also, the idea that you hear the engine idle speed change should happen if the compressor engages. So, I'm questioning if the problem is with the ECM.

You really should scan the CAN to see if there is a code stored related to the ECM/AC.

Here is a link that shows how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you for the reply. The A/C unit....it has both an On/Off button AND an Automatic button on the center console. The clutch.... A friend of mine who is an ASE certified mechanic said the compressor didn't have a clutch on it. Personally, I'm not sure how the compressor is designed other than I know there is not stationary disk on the front of the clutch that cycles on and off as the compressor is running. I did ask my friend about the ECM, and he said it was possible but not likely. He ran a CAN diagnostic on it with a ZEUS automotive scanner made by Snap On and no codes showed up. The reader was not able to read the pressure sensors on the high and low side sensors. He had the high/low side gauges on it, and they never fluctuated at any point the A/C switch was on, so the compressor was getting the signal based of the fluctuation in the RPM's when the A/C was turned on, but it just was not cutting on. I should also mention that the blower motor would not running either I've wondered whether or not the vent doors for the cold air and heat are stuck and not opening shutting, but that wouldn't be the case because the high/low side pressures weren't fluctuating. It's just very odd that the unit can be purged and refilled with R134, oil, and Dye one weekend and the AC blows cold air as it should, but two weeks later the same process is done, and the A/C doesn't work (as far as blowing cold air)
I could be very wrong about this but for some reason I seem to recall something on the compressor that is known to go bad...maybe an A/C control valve?
Thanks again for the assistance

My apologies, but to add to the above I verified that the clutch was getting power to it by checking the connection to the control valve. Oddly I don't know whether this is a clutch less compressor or not. I've heard some say that even clutch-less compressors have a clutch with the clutch for the clutch-less compressors being the control valve.....so I don't know. I do know the compressor is a Doowan DVE16. Hoping like heck it's the control valve that is the issue. While running the entire front of the compressor is moving, including the center bolt. It's my understanding that if the center bolt of a clutch-less compressor isn't moving with the pulley turning then that means it's been sheared off on the inside. Thanks again guys

Hi,

Is it possible for you to get pressure readings from both the high and low sides of the system? If you can, could you let me know the static pressure (system off for a period of time), both pressures and the outside temperature when checked?

According to the manual, it has an electronic clutch. See pic below. If it is turning the compressor, we have a different issue.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Thanks for the reply. Right now, the temperature outside is 77 degrees F
The low sides static pressure is showing around 66 degrees F and the high side static pressure is showing around 70 degrees F. Keep in mind the outdoor temperature reading I got if from a weather temperature located downtown, so it's likely the reading is a little higher there than it is here.

Okay, so just to add to the above. My son drove the car today and turned the A/C on to see if it would work and, of course, it didn't. This evening after the car cooled off, I checked the static readings again and with the air temperature at around 75 degrees F the low pressure read 83 and the high pressure read 80. Also, I have verified that the pressure sensor on then high pressure side is in the open position, and I could not find a pressure sensor on the low side, and I followed the line all the way from the compressor to the little metal box on the firewall (I guess the expansion valve)
Also, I did verify that there are a couple of wires running to just behind the compressor pulley so I'm guessing those wires activate the clutch. The connection at the control valve in the rear of the compressor gets power when the A/C switch is turned on. The clutch is engaged constantly and does not cycle on and off, so I know that it is a big red flag.
Apologies for all of this info but I'm just trying to provide as much info as possible. Again, thank you for your help.

Hi,

Did you get the pressures when the engine/AC was running? If there is no change, we need to remove the clutch and see if something is broken. If it is engaged, that tells me there is enough freon in the system (which stands correct with the static readings) The pressure you provided, and the temperature are right where things should be.

So, either we aren't actually turning the compressor (check pressure change when running) or the compressor itself has failed.

Let me know. Also, if you could make a video of the compressor engaging and upload it for me to see, I may see something you missed. Unlikely, but anything is possible.

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you. There is no change in the pressure on the high or low side when the car is running, and the A/C is on. I've checked that multiple times. The clutch is not cycling at all (as would be indicated by fluctuating pressure readings as the compressor cycles on and off) but turning constantly with the compressor regardless, so the clutch appears constantly engaged regardless of whether the A/C switch is on or off. Oddly with the last static pressure reading when I disengaged the manifold testing coupling from the high-pressure side a noticeable amount of oil came out. Hoping it could be something other than a faulty compressor, but it's not looking good. The compressor itself isn't a big issue to replace but the other things than have to be replaced is a sig additional cost. My son has a friend who has the same type of car and fork kicks I'm going to watch his compressor and its function with the A/C on and the A/C off. Thank you again.

Hi,

That sounds like a good idea. If I understand, it appears as if the clutch is staying engaged at all times. Is that correct? If it is, either the compressor has failed or the clutch.

Here is the part number for the clutch/hub assembly.

976441R100

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you again. Yes, the clutch appears to be staying engaged constantly with the A/C on or off. That being said if the A/C clutch was constantly engaged wouldn't the A/C blow cold air if the compressor itself was working properly?

Hi,

Yes, if the compressor is good and freon and other components are working correctly, you should have cold air. However, the idea that the pressures don't change between static pressure and its running is either a broken shaft or the compressor has failed.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Hey Joe,

My son's friend, who also has a 2015 Genesis Coupe, said his entire compressor turned when the /AC was off and when the A/C was on, and he didn't see the clutch ever stop turning as the A/C cycled. I don't know how long he watched it, so I asked him again to turn the A/C on and watch the compressor to see of the center of the compressor started and stopped as the AC cycled. As far as a clutch. will that stay engaged continuously until the desired interior temperature is reached and then start cycling on and off to maintain the interior temperature, or will it cycle on and off while it's cooling from the beginning? That's something I never thought about.
Thanks Joe

Just to add. I happened to see a video of a replacement A/C Compressor that was the same model compressor as the A/C my son has, and the spindle spun freely, separate from the clutch, when the clutch wasn't engaged. As you previously mentioned the clutch permanently engaged obviously is an issue. Is there any chance at all that the control valve in the compressor is faulty, causing the compressor to be continuously engaged? With the compressor continuously engaged there is no cooling whatsoever in the cabin of the car. I'm not getting a good vibe about the compressor in the car but would love to know what the issue is so that it can be corrected without going through these "replace things along the way until you get it corrected" method. Again, thank you for the information provided.

Hi,

Anything is possible. If you are questioning it, remove the belt and see if it turns by hand with everything off. If it turns freely without resistance, the compressor is the likely issue.

I wish I could give you a more concrete answer, but the best I can do is provide you with my past experience. I have a question. When the ignition key is turned off, does the clutch disengage or can you hear it click on when the key is first turned on?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe,

I disconnected the drive belt and the compressor, and the clutch turned together. The spindle to the compressor would not turn separately, so I'm guessing the issue is the compressor. I'm not sure of any other reason that would cause the clutch and the spindle to turn together other when power is off other than a seized compressor. My plan currently is to replace the compressor, the condenser, and the receiver dryer. Any other ideas of what the problem might be that we haven't touched on? Also, is there any possibility that you could tell be where the A/C relay is located on this car? I thought it was against the firewall under the ECM units, but I could be mistaken.
Thanks again for the assistance.

Hi,

If it is spinning that easily with the clutch engaged, something is broken. As far as a relay, the schematic doesn't show a compressor clutch relay on this vehicle. Control of the compressor is done via the A/C control module.

Let me know.

joe

See pic below.

Well guys, just ignore my previous reply because I just went and checked that compressor again and there aren't two wires running into just behind the idler pulley after all. I would have bet my life 1000X over I felt two wires running into just behind the idler pulley a couple days ago. In any event the compressor I did get in the mail today. The "clutch area" and the idler pulley all turn together at the same time, just like the compressor on the car. That being the case I'm hoping it's just the control valve in the compressor that is the issue.

Hi,

If I understand correctly, the compressor clutch is always engaged? Is that correct?

I'm going to ask the site owner for his input. He is excellent with A/C systems. I'm curious as to what he thinks.

Joe

Thank you. Yes, the clutch is always engaged on both the old compressor and new compressor. Now I did apply 12 volts to the switch on the new clutch and you can hear a click, but there is no movement on the front whatsoever, such as a clutch engaging. As mentioned earlier the operation of the compressor on the same, make and model of car (2015 Genesis Coupe 3.8) that has a working A/C shows the entire front of the compressor turning continuously whether the A/C is on or off. There is no visible cycling of the compressor that is visible. Could this be an internal clutch of some sort? I've checked the clutch via VIN number and the clutch I received is the right clutch. I should also include that with the belt off the idler pulley on the installed compressor turns pretty easily...doesn't feel like there is any real compression or engagement, whereas on the new one there is noticeable resistance when turning the spindle by hand, but that could be because I have not removed the plastic plugs out that come on the compressor, which may be causing the resistance.

Attached are a couple pics of the new compressor and my turning of the new compressor. Thanks again

Hi,

It is actuating internally when you hear the click. Although the pulley/clutch are engaged, the connection is happening internally. Does the original one do the same?

Joe

Thank you. I have not been able to put any voltage on the original one due to clearance issues. I will have to remove it to check it, but based on how easily the idler pulley of the installed compressor turns I suspect something is wrong with the compressor. It just turns too easily for me to fathom any compression is takin place. Of course, I will not know until i I check it once removed. At this point I would be pleased if it were an issue with the compressor and not the EC!!!

Hi,

Keep in mind, the clutch isn't a traditional setup, it's a variable displacement compressor.
There is a movable plate within the compressor that can rotate and change the volume of the compression chamber, adjusting the amount of compression continuously from zero to the full amount. That is what you are hearing inside.

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you for the reply. If I can find a way to get power to the compressor without having to remove it and can hear it click, then I'm going to guess the control valve is the issue. When my friend evacuated the system after having recharged it a week earlier. So, I could remove the compressor, he said the unit was only slightly low on refrigerant and prob not low enough to prevent the compressor from coming on. Also, as previously mentioned, the RPMs of the vehicle did fluctuate when I would turn the A/C on, and even though no cold air came out I would think the compressor was being engaged based on the RPM fluctuating.

I've read most of the issues with this compressor is with the control valve going bad and not the actual failure of the compressor itself.

Hi,

Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing. Also, it very well could be related to the control valve.

Take care,

Joe

I will definitely let you know. A friend of mine asked me something about some door wiring harness and I told him to ask you guys because I had no clue what to tell him, and that you guys were the best chance of finding out what is going on without having to go to the dealer for a very expensive repair. If he decides to contact you, I hope everything works out for both of you.

Have a blessed evening.

Good evening,

Well, to follow up I took the compressor out of the car and there was a hole in the top of the compressor and when I turned it upside down to get the oil out all kinds of shiny metal objects fell out things fell out of, lol. I actually think I may have knocked the hole in it myself when I was trying to remove the alternator, but I know I didn't cause any other stuff that fell out. I'm enclosing pictures. I'm now waiting for the receiver and dryer to some in. I know I need to flush the system but am unsure of the way to do that. Any advice on that? Thanks

Sorry, I think I replied to this only my friends account, so I'm going to reply again.
So, i got the compressor off and there was a big hole in the top of it. Turned it upside down and all kinds of metals stuff came out, lol. I'm now waiting for the receiver and dryer to come in. I know I have to flush the system but have never done that. Any advice on the proper way to do it? Thanks

Hi,

Wow! That's the problem. I don't think I've ever seen a hole that big. Make sure to flush the system. Let me know.

Joe

Hi there. I wanted to let you know that the compressor was replaced and now the A/C is working fine. The hole. I'm guessing I put it there when I was knocking the alternator to get it off because it definitely was not there to start with. Might need to replace the alternator soon as some anti-freeze leaked through the connection where the upper radiator hose connects to the motor and soaked the alternator. It almost looked as if the alternator was what was leaking anti freeze. As of now it's still charging based on my readings, but my son had an issue a few nights ago where the engine kind of stuttered and the battery indicator flashed briefly on the instrument panel, and he said the car would not accelerate after that, so he pulled into a gas station parking lot. I got there and couldn't find anything wrong. Since it was at night, and he had the A/C and headlights on something like what happened sounded to me like the alternator wasn't charging properly, but it was when I checked it with the multimeter. Who knows?
Thank you so much for your assistance with this issue, it is greatly appreciated.

Hi,

You are very welcome and thank you for the update. I'm glad you got it taken care of. As far as the battery light flickering, I wonder if something caused the RPMs to drop low enough to trigger it. Anything is possible.

Regardless, I'm glad you have A/C again.

Take care and feel free to come back any time in the future.

Joe