ABS light stays on?

2000 FORD E-SERIES VAN
167,000 MILES • 4.2L • V6 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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WARREN1814
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My ABS light stays on. So far i have done the following to my van. Replaced the tone ring, replaced the front disc brake pads on both sides, Replaced the front shocks /struts both sides. Check to see if there was enough brake fluid in there. I have bought a replacement connector that goes on top of the axle that connects the ABS sensor to the rear (picture of it below). But i cannot for the life of me to get anybody to replace this part for me for some strange reason. Well that's all i can remember that i have done to it so far. So far i haven't checked to see if the ball bearings are bad, because i don't have a working jack at the moment.
Apr 15, 2024 at 12:17 AM
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STEVE W.
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It could be the wheel speed sensors, ABS module, rear speed sensors are a few other items. The first step would be to scan the vehicle and see what code(s) are in the system. Without that you could replace every part and still have the light on because it is something else. Because it's a Ford I would suggest getting a copy of FORScan and the correct dongle That will give you a tool that can do as much as the OE diagnostic system but for a much lower price, and it works on pretty much all the Ford makes and even on some Mazda vehicles.

https://forscan.org/home.html

Or get one of the handheld units that can read ABS codes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTtAnsOlZU4

Then use the codes to give you a map of where to start looking.
Apr 15, 2024 at 3:02 AM
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STRAILER
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This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/7-common-symptoms-of-a-bad-automotive-bearing-hub

Which tells why the bearing hub can cause this problem, but like Steve W says we need the codes to see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/anti-lock-system-testing-and-repair-abs

Here are the ABS system wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. I would also check the fuses and grounds of the system which I have included as well. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response to the problem so we can see what's going on.





Apr 15, 2024 at 5:17 PM
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WARREN1814
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Hello guys (Steve W.) Okay, i will see if i can get it scanned once again. and see what codes it is pulling up this time. If i remember correctly i think someone on here told me that my van has only 3 speed sensors. 2 in the front and one in the center of the axle in the back. And thank you Ken for another awesome guide and wire diagram. Hopefully this will pinpoint what the problem is. Wow, i haven't ever seen a wire diagram like that before. I had no idea my van had this hidden inside of it. Also, now the ABS light will come on and go off. it's like it has a mind of its own now. This is so frustrating etc. Anyway, i will keep you guys updated .
Apr 16, 2024 at 11:15 PM
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STRAILER
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The scan will help tell us which sensor is having an issue.

Here is a guide to help you test the sensors manually which could help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

Please go over this guide and get back to us.


Apr 17, 2024 at 9:52 AM
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WARREN1814
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Okay guys, I finally have some type of update for you. Well today I finally got my master brake cylinder fix, Brakes flushed and new brake pads. The repair guy even said that my brake booster was in good shape as well. So why is my ABS light still coming on and going off? I haven’t cleared the code off just yet. Because I was thinking once everything is fixed it should go off by itself, right? And if my ABS module is bad, where do i go to get one? None of my parts stores seem to have them. Also, the repair guys said that since my van is so old my brakes are hydraulic and not electronic no matter what you do to any of the brake parts won't fix the ABS light from going on or going off unless you test and repair the ABS module. Is this true or false?

Cost brake down:
Master cylinder, bleed and refill
Adjust rear brakes etc) = $200.00
Tax $17.03
Labor $180.00
Total $402.03
Oct 29, 2024 at 10:38 AM
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WARREN1814
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Ok guys I finally have some type of update for you. Well today I finally got my master brake cylinder fix, Brakes flushed and new brake pads. The repair guy even said that my brake booster was in good shape as well. So why is my ABS light still coming on and going off? I haven’t cleared the code off just yet. Because I was thinking once everything is fixed it should go off by itself right? And if my ABS module is bad, Where do I go to get one. None of my parts stores seem to have them. Also, too the repair guys said that since my van is so old my brakes are hydraulic and not electronic no matter what you do to any of the brake parts won't fix the ABS light from going on or going off unless you test and repair the ABS module. Is this true or false?

Cost brake down:
Master cylinder, bleed & refill
Adjust rear brakes etc) = $200.00
Tax $17.03
Labor $180.00
Total $402.03
Oct 29, 2024 at 2:21 PM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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You need to scan it to see why the ABS light is on. None of the parts you replaced would repair an ABS fault as he said. The ABS is electronic and involves wheel speed sensors, the ABS module and the associated wiring. That is why we said scan it first.
Oct 29, 2024 at 3:52 PM
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WARREN1814
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Oh, oh okay. well, i will scan it and see what it says this time. Should i clear the code once i find out what it is to see if it will come back on its own or not? Also, i have full brakes now too. They no longer get hard and then get soft etc. I thought for sure it would make the ABS light go off but i guess not. anyway, i will get it scanned and see what it says. Looks like wheel speed sensors maybe on the list next. Anyway, i will let you guys know and thank you for taking the time to answer me Steve W. I am sorry i forgot to tell you what was wrong with my brakes in the first place. Well, they would get hard and then soft like i said. But I came to find out the master brake cylinder went bad and it was leaking where it attached to the brake booster. So, the repair guy did fix that part and cleaned out where the brake fluid was running into the brake booster. And like i said i have full brakes now etc. And the ABS still comes on and goes off for now etc.
Oct 29, 2024 at 6:59 PM
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STEVE W.
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The code would clear itself if there is nothing wrong. ABS is a continuous monitor system so it is always testing, Whatever the code is should point you at the problem. If your scan tool can read the wheel speeds you can look at that as well, if it shows the rear at 45, front left at 45 but right front at 0 you know where to start looking. Similar if it showed both fronts at 45 but the rear at 0.
Oct 29, 2024 at 9:37 PM
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WARREN1814
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Oh, i didn't know that the ABS is continuous. I learn something new on this website every time. Okay, i will have it scanned i have to look through the manual of the scanner and see if it will read the wheel speed.
Oct 29, 2024 at 11:47 PM
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WARREN1814
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Well i went for a ride today in my van and the ABS light went off by itself. But the brakes sure feel funny to me once again. I don't have to push hard and all and i have brakes but it still feels weird to me. Or i could have just driven my van so long without them being repaired so long that its going to feel funny for me from hear on. I will still have it scanned anyway though, Maybe there is hidden or past code in there. etc
Oct 31, 2024 at 12:11 AM
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STEVE W.
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Should still be a history code but with the light off it may not show depending on the scan tool. Ley us know what you find.
Oct 31, 2024 at 9:20 AM
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WARREN1814
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Okay, i sure will, and i am pretty sure the abs light will come back on too. In the meantime, does the 2000 Ford E-150 Econoline van have either of the following relays on them Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Indicator Light Relay or a ABS relay? Some friends of mine says it does but if it doesn't i can't seem to find it anywhere in the manual of the van.
Oct 31, 2024 at 9:53 AM
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STEVE W.
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It has an ABS relay but it's stuck behind the center of the dash (thanks Ford) which makes it a bear to get to.
Oct 31, 2024 at 2:45 PM
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WARREN1814
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Yeah, and knowing my luck that maybe the reason why my ABS light keeps coming on too. (Thanks Ford lol). Well anyway thank you for taking the time to write me back so quickly i will keep you posted. I saw this technique i saw on YouTube where you can use your scanner to see which wheel speed sensor it is (if any). Like you talked about up there. I just hope my scanner has this option where i can do by myself. These repair shops cost a lot just for diagnose things today. And i am trying to recover from the $400 i just spent.
Nov 1, 2024 at 8:18 AM
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STEVE W.
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The relay just powers the ABS system, won't turn the light on itself. That is done through the ABS module itself. Removing it would turn off the light because it would also turn off the entire ABS system.
Nov 3, 2024 at 10:10 AM
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WARREN1814
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Oh, okay. Well, i finally had it scanned and the code it produced was C1229 - Rear Speed Center Coherency Fault. Its the only error code that was produced this time. Here is the picture of the scanner. Sorry the picture isn't too clear it was kind of bright outside this time. Sorry for 2 images of the same thing. I tried deleting one of them, but it wouldn't erase etc.
Nov 9, 2024 at 9:42 PM
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STEVE W.
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Okay, that code basically means that there is a problem with the signal from the rear speed sensor. It isn't receiving the signal as a steady thing. Commonly that means a broken wire in the harness to the sensor. Try this test, go into the live data on your scan tool and select the wheel speed sensor data. Now drive on a straight line at about 30 mph or so and watch the speeds. You should see them all saying 30 mph. I suspect the rear speed will be erratic and so drop outs. I know you posted that you got a new connector for that sensor, what was the reason for that? Damage? Corrosion? Both of those could cause this code. It is also the reason the ABS light comes and goes, sometimes the sensor signal is good then it drops out. That is usually the wiring and not the sensor itself. There are 2 wires from the sensor to the ABS module. If you know how to splice the wires you can just use two wires and replace the harness from the sensor up into the harness at the rear of the truck. They fail normally because the wiring has to flex as the rear suspension moves. If I had it here, I would take the new plug you have and de-pin it and add new longer wires to it and then splice it into the harness where I circled in the image.
Nov 10, 2024 at 12:35 AM
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WARREN1814
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Hello there, sorry for the long delay in writing you back. And ok i will try that test you where talking about. But first i will answer your question. The reason why i connector is because i thought it might have been lose connector like you said (and others on the list too). And i have been trying and trying to get some to put that new connector on my van for the last 6 months or so. But, but nobody seems to want to mess with it. But i will try and do the test and let you know what happens. At least i can try and do that. I'm in a wheelchair so i just can't look under the van to see if any wires are broken or have rust on them etc. Very nice diagram..i like that..
Nov 12, 2024 at 9:35 PM
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STEVE W.
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Yeah that would limit what you can do if you don't have a lift. I'm surprised that nobody is willing to replace a simple connector. What part of the world are you in? Maybe someone can recommend a shop.
Nov 12, 2024 at 10:42 PM
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WARREN1814
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I am too. and disappointed they act like they don't want to mess with it. Well i did that test you talked about as best as i could kind of hard to take pics of the scanner while driving with one hand on the steering wheel and the other on the hand and brake control lol I had to do it while i was at the light (stopped). But all 3-wheel sensors reached 68.0 while driving.
Nov 13, 2024 at 1:08 PM
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WARREN1814
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Yeah what some car shops will work on one thing and not some other things USA Oklahoma. Well i did that test.. here are the pics i managed to get while at the stop light.
Nov 13, 2024 at 1:10 PM
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CARADIODOC
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Hi guys. I was reading this to learn the solution, and something came to mind. A few years ago I was following a similar problem, also on a Ford van. The owner claimed the brake pedal became impossible to push down, and if it was already pressed, it would push back up by itself. As I recall, this was an intermittent problem, and very dangerous. What reminded me of this was the fault code relating to an erratic rear signal. This other fellow's problem turned out to be metal debris that had collected on the tip of the rear sensor's magnet. By the description, it sounded like a bunch of little ears broken off the clutch plates for a locking differential. He or I may have interpreted that wrong. I do know it's not uncommon to find a coating of slimy fuzz on the sensor, meaning very fine metal filings in the gear lube and stuck to the magnet. Anything metal stuck to the magnet in that type of sensor will interfere with its ability to generate a signal the computer can read.

I have a couple of other thoughts you might consider. With the mechanics' disagreement on "electronic" vs. something else, it sounds like they're referring to the type of anti-lock brake system. I've heard people refer to "rear-wheel-anti-lock", (RWAL) systems as hydraulic because they use a dump valve under the driver's seat, on the frame rail, and those only reduce brake fluid pressure to the two rear brakes. The brake pedal will gradually drop closer to the floor during that braking cycle, but only when the system activates. It only prevents rear-wheel lockup.

These same people will refer to "four-wheel-anti-lock" systems as "electronic" because there's a big hydraulic controller that often has a computer module bolted to it. In fact, both systems are electronically controlled, both use electrical sensors, and both modulate brake fluid pressure to a wheel that's slowing down too quickly. Your van will be of the four-wheel ABS system because it has sensors on the front wheels.

I don't know if this applies, but a possible reason no one wants to replace the rear sensor's connector is they haven't diagnosed the need themselves, and don't want to be blamed when it doesn't solve the problem. They also may fear you'll leave the shop confident the system will work if an emergency arises, and if it doesn't help prevent a crash, they may be party to a lawsuit. Mechanics have to have that in mind every time they touch a vehicle.

Most shops are also rather funny about installing parts a customer provides. That's like bringing your own food to a restaurant and asking them to cook it for you. If you don't like it, who is to blame? Sometimes, especially with old or rare cars, the shop may ask you to do research and find parts so they don't have to do that, but it should be made clear what happens if it's the wrong part, or it fails in the warranty period. When the shop procures the part, they mark it up a little to form a breakage fund. That fund pays the mechanic to do the job a second time if the part is defective. He did nothing wrong, so he deserves to be paid the second time. The car owner did nothing wrong, and he doesn't get charged to do the job a second time. Those benefits are lost or are in question when the customer provides the parts.

I would expect to be given a reason when someone refuses to do what is requested. That will give you an idea on what to do next. One last resort to consider is to visit a community college with an Automotive program and talk with one of the instructors. At my school, we were always looking for live work to give the kids real-world experience, and we had about a dozen community members who would sit on a broken vehicle until it matched what we were teaching. My "Electrical" class, for example, was only taught once a year, for eight weeks. The students have to learn how to solder and perform wiring repairs before we would bring this repair in, and it could only be during those eight weeks. To do electrical work outside of those eight weeks, such as in "Suspension and Alignment" class, would take away from our already too short time in that class, and it would take work away from the shop owners in our community who hire our graduates. At the very least, an instructor who isn't in class will gladly take the time to answer any questions, and possibly point you to a reputable shop that can help.

Hope this gives you guys some more ideas to pursue.
Nov 13, 2024 at 3:11 PM
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WARREN1814
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I'm sorry i forgot to post the pictures. In the first picture is when i stopped at the stop light. I have a short video on my scanner but i don't know how to get it off of there etc. And thank you CARADIODOC for your comment and you make some very interesting points too. I never thought about that.
Nov 13, 2024 at 6:07 PM
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WARREN1814
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Last picture and here is the video too (sorry for so many post etc.) In the video you will see the speed sensors read 4.8 that's when i stopped at the red lights etc. But you guys know that already.
Nov 13, 2024 at 6:43 PM
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STEVE W.
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Okay, now that I know what you have for a scan tool. Select just the front sensors and the rear and switch them to graphing mode (the little hill looking thing on the right) now go drive on a rough road and then stop and look at the graphs. What you are looking for is drop outs in the signal, which is all that is needed to cause this. Then we can discover why. If there are no drop outs but the light is still on, then it could be the module itself not reading the signal internally.

Doc has some good points in there. I would second an automotive related school if you have one. Most do "routine" things throughout the class, but they do take tougher things later in the classes.
Nov 13, 2024 at 7:17 PM
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WARREN1814
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Sorry for the delay in writing back (life happens unfortunately). Ok i will do just that (do a scan while driving on a rough road).. In fact the road was driving on was really rough. And far as finding some school goes. I will have to look into that. As to where i live there used to be a vo-tech but they moved it way out of the city so i will see if i can find another one that's close.
Nov 19, 2024 at 9:40 AM
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WARREN1814
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Okay, here is the graphic of the LF and RR speed sensor. The right front does the same thing... as the LF.... etc., I hope it's not the ABS module, because if it is. That's the end of that. Ford discontinued the ABS module for the 2000 Ford e-150 Eco van. And so far, i know of no auto parts stores that carry it. At least not where i live anyway. My last guess could be wrong with it is the brake booster or the ABS module.
Nov 21, 2024 at 9:00 PM
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STEVE W.
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Yeah that doesn't look good, but we have another test that should tell you once and for all. It is a substitution test. You know the fronts are good and the rear is suspect. So, what we will do is "swap" the sensor inputs at the ABS Module. Basically, you know the sensors are sending data, but if you were to take the right front signal and send it to the rear input and it still showed the rear as the problem you know it's the module. Which can be found used,
To do that we would find the ABS module harness and swap the wires shown in the picture, either by cutting them or depinning. If you still see the same issue, then it's the module.
Now there is another option but I'm not going to tell you, but if you look in the location picture you might see something underlined. You had the brakes repaired and they work, while the light is on the ABS is off and it drives like a van without the optional ABS. If you can deal with that it's possible to turn off the ABS and the light in one step... Remove the optional ABS. I drove a lot of vehicles that way because I grew up on RWD and no ABS so many got the connector unplugged in my GMs.
Nov 22, 2024 at 2:30 AM
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WARREN1814
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Wow, that is a lot to remember good thing you wrote that down on here. And i forgot to tell you when i put on my brakes it makes a hissing / some kind of weird sound. While the van is trying to stop it acts like its trying to stop the van in steps if that makes any kind of sense to you. first step it slows down smoothly. second step it slow the van down more aggressively. And on the last step it locks up the wheels and you can hear the tires makes that good old sound it makes when the wheels has locked up and you know you are sliding and leaving black marks on the street lol Now getting back to what you said. I won't be able to get to that is because of course i'm in a wheelchair and my reach is limited. I do go to reach the scan port for the scanner.
Nov 22, 2024 at 4:59 PM
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STEVE W.
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Hissing is usually a sign of a vacuum leak in the booster, unless it is momentary. Like you step down and hold the pedal and it stops it's likely just a valving issue, if you step on the pedal and it hisses the entire time that's a leak. It sounds like the ABS is intermittent as well. If you were to pull fuse 19 in the under-hood fuse box it should deactivate it and let you see if it is the ABS causing the jerky stops.
Nov 22, 2024 at 5:47 PM
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WARREN1814
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Okay, let me see if i can get someone to check this for me. Okay, i pulled the fuse 19 under the hood in the fuse (the fuse wasn't blown either) box like you said (and just did a short drive etc.,) and yeah, it stopped jerky when putting on the brakes and that sound i was telling you about went away too. I can live without the ABS system if i have to. But now the ABS light stays on all the time now. Also too. i seen a fuse under there that had a hole in it. I don't know what fuse it was related to as i forgot to write it down. But i will go back out there and look up what fuse that was. Well it was one of those big relay looking fuse is the one that had the whole in it. Someone covered it up with a piece of duct tape.
Nov 23, 2024 at 11:23 AM
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STEVE W.
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Well, that relay isn't very secure any longer, I suspect they tried to remove it and damaged the case. That is the trailer running light relay. Removing fuse 19 would have disabled the ABS system (not the light but the ABS module and sensors). As that stopped the jerking and the hissing then it sounds like the ABS control module is the faulty part. With it partially operating it is trying to engage and disengage while you stop. Doing the sensor swap would pin it down but with your situation it may be a while before you can find a shop that can actually do the testing without just swapping out expensive pieces for you to pay for.
As such you can still drive it until you get it repaired but to turn off the light would require you to remove fuse 19 and Fuse 1. That should turn off the ABS system fully. It may not turn off the light, Ford did some strange wiring with it and used another fuse to power the light. If the brakes now work without the jerks and noise, then it is the ABS module itself that you would need to replace. You might try www.car-part.com to see if some yard near you has a used one, they could ship.
There is also the option of bulb removal to turn off that light if fuse one doesn't but that would be entirely your choice.
Nov 23, 2024 at 4:56 PM
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WARREN1814
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First Steve W. I want to thank you for all of your help. It helped me out big time. Thank you so much! :-) And okay, i will have to have someone pull fuse 1 / Fuse 19 is already removed. i just never had the person put it back for me. It is frustrating as heck know what to do to your vehicle and not being able to do it. But i am a happy man at this point at least i know what is problem now. Thanks again Steve W. I will keep you post as to what i can find on that website you suggested. I have seen one site that might have one, but ABS modules cost $600.00 to $800.00 someone told me. If i am lucky enough to find one new. But if i can find an old one. That is fine with me. Quick question, is the ABS module on a Ford van in the front of the van (under the hood) like it is on your diagram?
Nov 23, 2024 at 8:12 PM
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STEVE W.
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Yes, it's up front under the hood. That site should show you salvage yards to look at. It's a sort of watered down version of the Hollander interchange that the yards themselves use to look for parts.
Nov 23, 2024 at 8:41 PM
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WARREN1814
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Cool.. here i was thinking it was stuck way underneath the dashboard somewhere. Okay, since i know where it is I just need to find someone again to see if they can do that sensor swap you were talking about. But that may take some time to find someone that can do that for me. Finding people who know what they are doing is really hard to do. Thank you for your help once again Steve W. This also helps me as to if a repair guy tells me if he put in a new abs module and i can see if he does or not etc. But that's down the road though to repair that if necessary, etc.
Nov 23, 2024 at 9:32 PM
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STEVE W.
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No worry about the time, we will still be here.
Nov 24, 2024 at 12:12 PM