ABS issue, 480a90: DSC: Roller Brake Tester Mode Active

Oh, and when I checked wheel sensors on the scanner, the front two were not reading. Removed one and cleaned it, still same results.

Hi,

The codes are related to the wheel speed sensors and dynamic stability control (DSC). However, the idea that it is in the roller test mode, there is a chance that is why you are getting no signal.

Before proceeding, I need you to manually check the wheel speed sensors on the front to confirm they are bad. If they are, you will need to replace them. This could turn off the test mode. By following the link below, you will be testing the sensors only and not the vehicle ABS, DSC, and so on circuits.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

If the sensors test good, I want you to try something. These vehicles have what is called a "secrete menu" which is where I believe the test is operated from. Try the following and let me know if it gets you into the menu.

1) Switch on the ignition (engine off).
2) Press the left button (trip odometer reset) and hold it down until the test on the display shows and the instrument cluster lights up.
3) Press the same button until the number on the right has reached 19.
4) Next, the L on and L off will begin to light up alternately on the display.
5) At "L off" press the button again.

At that point, you should be able to navigate through the menu. Check for the roller brake test and confirm it is off.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

I cleaned both and put them back, same results. I tried to find a way to turn the roller mode off but could not find any info. I was thinking the same as you. I just went and looked at the menu. You can turn the ignition on and hold the trip button and you will get a few options numbered 1, 3, 4, and 10, one of them is start roller. The one below is end test, not sure which test, and the last one numbered 10 is unlock. Once i press it i can go to 19 but then nothing else happens. Also, if i hold the start roller it asks dsc off? Also, if i choose the end test i don't get the option to yes or no or L off L on. Will leaving battery disconnect for a while turn that off?

Hi,

It's asking if the DSC is off. Can you select a yes, or no? Also, you should consider checking the sensors how I described. They may be fine, but the toner ring that makes them operate can be causing issues. We need to see if there is a current being produced.

Let me know.

Joe

I have posted my question using my older account but for some reason I am not able to log into it so I cannot reply to it. It was under bhamdoc1 or bhamdoc1973.
All brake/traction/ABS lights are on, and you can still drive it with no issues. Once all the lights are deleted you drive and the traction control light flashes and loss of power, then after a few all lights are back again. Only code is 480A90 for brake roller active. Checked wheel sensors on scanner and both fronts giving 0 reading.
Cleaned sensor and that did nothing.
I tried to go into the hidden menu on cluster and I see roller test but nowhere to turn it off, so I guess once car is shut off test is off.
I removed the sensor from car and attached a multimeter, but I get zero readings when I am turning the wheel or when it's off the car while turning something metal in front of it...not sure if both fronts can be bad.
Nothing seems to be rubbing against the sensor and doesn't look damaged.
But while turning the hub I looked in the hole where the sensor is and am not seeing anything turning, am I not supposed to? Not sure if you can see from the video but nothing is turning when I turn the hub...so how is the sensor supposed to read speed?

I replaced the sensor and deleted code, the lights all came back immediately. I checked the code now it says rear left 480A9C permanent. Doesn't make sense. I only changed the front left. Also, when checking the signal VIA scanner, it used to show all 4 as 100%, now the one I changed shows zero, put another new sensor on there, same results. Keeps saying not a valid image file. I tried PNG, JPEG, JPG, nothing works. But the code is up there.

Hi,

There should be some type of toner ring in there which is read by the hall effect wheel speed sensor. I didn't see anything except at one point, I saw something black (I think) roll around.

Have you removed the brake rotor to see if there is evidence of anything damaged, missing, or causing some issue?

Joe

Yes, i removed everything. Don't see anything funny other than some rust. I can't see the teeth/rings of course. I guess i got to remove the wheel hub to see.

Hi,

The hub does need to be removed to get access to the tone ring. If you get no signal when testing it (with a multimeter), either the toner is loose, clogged, the sensor isn't positioned correctly, or the sensor is bad.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Joe

I don't understand how the sensor is gonna pick up anything the back cover is there, which does not turn when the wheel turn. Doesn't make sense.

Hi,

I attached the description of how it works. Take a look through it. It's hard for me to picture what is said because I'm not there.

However, are there two sensors on this wheel? According to what I'm reading and a pic I found, there is one on the rear of the dust cover. See the last pic. The one in your video is at top, correct?

Let me know.

Joe

Yes, that's the one you marked red, i doubt there are two. Just one ABS and one brake pad sensor.

That should read a toner ring which is part of the bearing. Is there nothing there?

Joe

But there is no teeth to be read.

Hi,

The reluctor (tone) ring is internal in the bearing. The cover on the rear should be aluminum, so the magnet doesn't respond to it. If it was an AWD the reluctor wound be on the CV axle joint.

Yes, that was my thinking. So, i guess it can't be the bearing magnet unless the ring has a tear?

Yes, and it simply could be damaged, corroded, anything that can prevent the signal from development.

I have been trying to replace the wheel bearing hub but every time i order it it fits but the lug but holes are smaller. This is the second one i ordered and it's the same thing. All fit but the Lugnut holes are smaller. Any thoughts?
Vin is WBA3A5C55CF346350

Also went to the BMW OEM parts and this is what i see, what does this mean? The hub bearing assembly is #10, here is the link to it:


https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3A53-USA-04-2012-F30-BMW-328i&diagId=31_0956

Found out BMW updated their dang Lugnut size so i either find an old stock bearing or change the Lugnuts. How can i tell what new Lugnuts i need since i have the new bearing?

Hi,

I know the original would have been 14mmx1.25. I remember there was a change in the wheel/hub diameter. The wheel/hub was out of tolerance. Are you sure that isn't what they meant?

Joe

I found out from the forums that the bearing hole size for the new ones changed. so, I have to buy different size nuts now, but I cannot find any info on what size it is. Because every bearing I buy now is going to have the new size wheel nut thread.

Hi,

If it is a factory change, try a 12mm x 1.5 x the length of the ones you presently have.

Let me know if that fits. That is a standard BMW size, so it's likely if they are smaller, that is what they went to.

Let me know.

Joe

So what is the original size it had?

The original size should have been 14mm x 1.25. Since the new hub (for some reason) has a smaller size opening for the lugs, I suspect BMW simply went to their next common size down, a 12mm x 1.5. If you go to a hardware store, get a cheap bolt of that size and see if it fits the new hub.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I see. Makes sense. Can you explain to me what the numbers mean here in general for lug nits? One for thickness kf the threads?

Hi,

Absolutely.

14mm or 12mm is the diameter of the bolt (the threaded part). (Not where you place a wrench to remove them)

1.25 or 1.5 is what refers to the thread pitch in mm. For example, a thread pitch of 1.5 means that the distance between one thread and the next is 1.5mm.

There is a third number that will indicate the length of the bolt.

I hope that makes sense.

Joe

I see, got it now. And there would not be a size of 12x1.25 right, either 12x1.5 or 14x1.25.

Hi,

Chances are there would be those sizes but not for this vehicle. However, I just went with what would normally be used. What I would suggest is to get an inexpensive bolt from a hardware store first and confirm it threads in easily and smoothly. Once you have confirmed the diameter and pitch of the thread are correct, then you could get what is needed.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

Okay, went to a store and tried 12x150 and that worked. Hopefully the length is still the same on the 12x1.5 and the m14x1.25. I will order those lug nuts and hooe for the best. I am also guessing there shouldnt be an issue as far as them fitting through the wheels.

Some progress. Please bear with me while I explain what happened. I need another brain and set of eyes to figure out something.
-Initially, both front wheel sensors were reading 0.
-Initially, all wheels showed a signal of 100% (not sure how is this measured or when, but the scanner has an option to "signal check" and they all showed 100% initially.
-Aftermarket Amazon wheel sensors did nothing to show any speed change from 0.
-Same aftermarket sensors showed 0% signal when I did the "signal check".
-Installed the new wheel bearing with the old sensor and turned ignition on, turned wheel by hand and there was no change in speed (not sure if it can be generated this way with these Hall effect sensors), BUT the signal check was at a 100%.
-Installed a new sensor from a good company, good brand, put everything back and put the car down. Back out of garage. Deleted all codes, immediately all lights returned. One was for rear left the other front right. Deleted again, only front right remained.
Drive the car while looking at wheel speeds, one of those that was showing 0 is now working great, but it is saying it is the right one, not the left that I changed. ugh.
-So, is it possible that the one on left is showing on right?
Does not make any sense that after a new bearing and sensor that the right one starts to work and not the front left....this is crazy..
-Not sure why the picture won't load, but it is basically showing 2 codes:
480713 permanent: WSS:Plausibility, right front direction of rotation.
480A9C permanent: WSS left rear sporadic fault.

Hi,

Like you, that makes no sense to me either. LOL I don't see how the opposite side could be recognized as working and not the one that was fixed.

Just for the heck of it, switch the sensors to see if it changes sides. If it does, then I suspect another bad sensor. If it doesn't, then we may have a module issue.

Let me know.

Joe

I am going to get another sensor of same brand and install on other side and see. I feel like if I switch the two fronts something is going to happen to the one that was just fixed. forgot to ask, are there any fuses or relays? Is it possible that a connector on the module was switched right vs left, or does the module just have one big connector? I think the salt and minor rust may have something to do with all of this. Where is the module located?

Hi,

Corrosion can certainly cause electrical connection issues. As far as the DSC module, it is mounted to the rear of the ABS pump. There is one large connector to it. That is why I don't feel the wires got switched. See pic below.

As far as power, the DSC receives power from three different fuses. They are located in the under-hood fuse box.

If you look below (pics 2 and 3), I attached the entire wiring schematic for this circuit. I had to cut the pic in half to make it readable, but I did overlap the two so you can follow from one to the next.

Let me know if this helps. At this point, I'm not 100% sure what is happening. There is even a chance that someone changed coding somehow and it's causing issues. Coding is basically the ability to make minor changes to the vehicle's software to unlock features BMW makes available in some of its vehicles. I don't even think the DSC is codable.

If the new sensor works, let me know. If it doesn't make a difference, you may need to send the DSC module out for repair or at least inspection. That is just a thought at this point.

Let me know what you find or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Is it possible for the ABS module to be bad without any ABS or dsc module codes?

Hi,

Yes. The module could be bad and not set a code. If the system receives a signal (right or wrong) but a signal that falls within the parameters set, it doesn't know the difference.

I suspect (only in theory) that someone has worked on the wiring before you purchased it, changing things or not knowing what they were doing. As a result, you are trying to use the OEM standard testing procedures and it isn't working. Nothing is making sense.

When you checked the connector at the ABS module, were all the pins in both the connector and module in good condition?

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

I tried to go into programming, but it won't even get in there. I was going to see if i can record it. Yes, i think all looked good at the module harness, I will check again. I used to be able to delete all the codes and all will disappear and i will be able to drive it 20 ft before the ABS starts to kind of work its thing and it would slow the car down till all the lights come on. Now as soon as i delete the codes they come back immediately. And it says these codes. Is it possible that non-OEM sensors can do this as far as rotation?

There is a chance that aftermarket parts can cause issues, but I don't see how they would cause what you are experiencing. But anything is possible.

Let me know if you find anything different.

Joe