A/C compressor?

A/C charge should be 22 oz. It may be overcharged. Put a gauge set on it and see what the pressures are. You did pull a full vacuum as well? Asking because if there is air or moisture in the system it could also act this way.

Yes sir. Pulled a full vac down to -30 for 30 mins. Let sit for 45 to make sure I didn’t have leaks anywhere. Put a set of gages on it and I’m getting 130 on high and low side. Of course I had to jump the relay again to get it to pull gas in the system. Could my condenser be stopped up so the liquid isn’t turning back into gas? Would that cause my equal pressures and the compressor not to come on any more than 1-2 seconds after I push the button inside?

What do the pressures do if you jump the wires, so the compressor engages? If they stay the same on both sides the compressor isn't working. If there was a blockage but a working compressor you would see the low side get drawn down to 30 or less but the high side would go far higher than normal. Then when you disengage the compressor, those pressures would stay that way for a while because the refrigerant pressures wouldn't be able to equalize due to the blockage. 134A static pressure should be close to the ambient air temperature. If you connect up and see the pressure on the system is say 90 and it is 91 degrees, then it has some 134A in it.

If I connect gauges and jump the relay so the compressor engages the pressures are 130 on high and low. This is the 2nd compressor I’ve bought with the same issues. Neither one comes on unless you jump the relay and both read equal pressures. I thought the same thing is to why I bought another compressor.

Where are you getting them? What is the pressure if you just connect the gauges with the engine not running? About the only other thing that could cause it would be if the orifice tube is the wrong one. If it was too large it wouldn't restrict the 134A enough and you would get a narrow pressure window like you have. As for the pressure switches, the low pressure is a simple switch, If the system has any pressure in it that switch should be closed. It opens when the pressure drops. It simply grounds the circuit so if you unplug it and use a jumper to ground on the A (blue) wire that would be the normal position of the switch. The high side is a true pressure sender. You should have a ground through the computer on terminal 1 (black wire) then 5 volts on terminal 2 (gray - your green wire) and terminal 3 (red with black) is a variable voltage that tells the ECM the system pressure. It controls the clutch cycling by adjusting the pressures in the system based on exterior temperature and A/C demand.
Is this an automatic system where you just set a temperature or the manual system?

I got the last 2 from car parts.com. I had the gauges “open” last night, so my pressures were equal. I closed them this morning and jumped the relay to get it the compressor to kick on. Once that happened my pressures were 18-20 on low and 120 on high side. It wasn’t just a few minutes until the whole system had frost on the lines. I removed my jumper from the relay and turned the truck off and my high side went to 0 and low pressure read 82 which was the ambient temperature this morning. My system is the manual type with the slide selectors, one for driver and one for passenger.

Hmm, those pressures are low. 82 ambient temperature I would expect the low side to be around 45 and a high up around 200. Then with the engine off in 82 degrees you would see about 82-85 psi on both once it equalizes.
What was the reason for compressor replacement? 18-20 psi won't even close the low side switch. Try this, unplug the low side switch and jump the two terminals in the socket. Does the system now come on? If yes, then it might actually be low on charge.

The reason for replacement was because of the pressures being the same on high and low, guess that was my fault for not knowing to close the gages lol. Oh well, just have an extra one now! I went to jump the low-pressure switch and heard a hiss, looked all around and found that the high-pressure switch (3 wire) is leaking where the metal meets the plastic. So now I’ve got to see if I can find one locally. (I unscrewed the switch from the line so I didn’t lose all my Freon) I can still jump the low pressure but without the other in place it won’t work I’m assuming.

Yeah, it won't work without the pressure switch. Normally the valves stay closed unless you are pulling a vacuum or charging the system. You connect the gauges then open the valve in the coupler on the hose. Then barely crack the low side valve on the gauges and it will purge the air, then close the valve. Repeat for the high side. Both of the valves on the couplers should be open and the valves on the gauge body should be closed. They then will show the low and high side pressures. If you open both valves you equalize the system, and the compressor just goes into a loop. As that switch is leaking it is likely that it leaked out some of the charge as it sat as well so you might want to have some standing by.

Sorry for the delay in responding, I was waiting on parts to come in. I went ahead and ordered a condenser I figured might as well being this far into it. So after replacing everything in the system and double checking my wiring on the switches I started the truck, turned the air on high and recirculate, started putting Freon in (after pulling a vacuum for 30 minutes at -30 and letting it sit for 30 to ensure no leaks) and the compressor kicked on and let me fill the system!! (25.6 oz) gave me 45 psi on the low and 145 on the high side blowing out 52 degree air inside! While I had the whole system apart I took an air hose and blew out all the lines. Good thing I did bc I had metal flakes in there I’m assuming from the old compressor. I can’t thank you enough for the help and I hope someone else finds all this information helpful! Thanks again!

Okay, sounds good but if you had metal flakes I would have a shop recover the charge you put in, then pull the orifice tube and check that it is clear, and install a line filter so that the flakes get removed and can't clog the orifice or circulate back to the new compressor. Those floating around can cause problems and even if you flush the complete system, some still seem to stay behind.