occasional no start

check fuel pressure with a gauge when hot, might be a fuel pump problem auto parts rent gauge.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

That is not a dealer only read the codes, just because you have the obd 1.5. I have a actron scan tool that reads obd1 and two codes and will read those as well. The codes will read out as obd2 codes with a letter followed by a four digit number.

apparently the auto parts stores dont have the right scanners i stopped and he said cant read it although i dont give those guys much credit for knowing anything other than pushing parts!

Yeah most only have basic obd2 code readers .

so it improved alot with steady starting then i let it set a week and now it starts ok but runs very rough til it gets warm or under heavy load. im thinkin maybe a temp sensor or mat sensor or tps or what am not able to read codes...

Do you ever have to hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor to start it?The actron scan tool I have reads both obd1 and obd2 codes so I think that's why it does the obd 1.5 as well.

dont recall all i recall is waiting for a few minutes before trying to start it. but when it did start it ran ok this new issue is its not running good has no power/missing until thoroughly warm and then under heavy load it misfires sporadically

Your really going to need to see what codes you have that's the first thing I would do at this point.Also I would be looking at live data like coolant temp sensor actual temp versus what the computer is seeing.Welcome to computer cars it's hard to get around looking at what codes you have and live data.

its getting worse! starts/idles fine but runs terrible missing and dont seem to go completely away warmed under load!

well it got worse as far as running but started ok and today it stalled at 65 on highway! based on symptoms it sounds like crank sensor! after stall it started a few times quit immediately. had it towed tried again no start!

So have we checked for codes yet?Also it doesn't start or try to start just cranks and doesn't start?If so what are we missing fuel pressure spark etc?

cant check codes but has fuel port squirt but no spark. i bought the sensor but cant get crank bolt out! saw on net about starter trick tried wedged wrench and i think it stripped corners! dont have a short socket that fits AKA cant find 1! gonna get module tested just for fun before i replace sensor gotta make a led test light so i can check for signals/juice. gonna hit pawn to try and get a socket. i could wreck the bolt head flange if all else fails!

taking a break from heat of day. got a nice snp 24mm impact socket at pawn found my puller had IGNIT module tested twice passed both times. looks like i also have a cam sensor? but i didnt think that would kill spark i bad?

It has both cam and crank sensors so you have the 16 pin obd2 connector don't you?you really need to scan that thing for codes would be a lot better then just guessing and hoping your right.

its OBD 1.5 i cant afford to have it scanned! i'm gonna do simple cam sensor test with multimeter by turn crank by hand i sure HOPE the magnet holder has not BROKEN!! if it passes only thing left is CKP or wiring issue?

too hot today but i did get bolt loose! craftsman ratchet and snap on socket wedged it against control arm hit starter....LOOSE! i know why they tighten it so much once loose it fingers OUT! why not use thread locker and keep torque down to reasonable levels!? PROFIT MARGINS!!

You have the sensors wiring coil computer as possibiltys.Now you have to make sure you get the crankshaft balancer tight enough.

forgot to mention i used WD and tapped bolt had with hammer before removal per suggestion on another similar topic. and thanks GM for putting lettering code on BOTTOM side of module connector! intentional or just corporate stupidity!? and although i found dielectric grease on underside of module i noticed it does NOT make hard/flush contact with plate surface its mounted on!? seems strange!?

Yeah iam not sure why any company does anything they way they do things.You just have to learn to embrace it.

EMBRACE THE BOMB!! EMBRACE the environment destruction!! EMBRACE the culture wars!! turning over crank by hand is not gonna get it for me!!it did start and stall right away a couple times after initial fail!? maybe something to do with computer taking over after 400 rpm is reached? does it need cam sensor to start or just during running!? i'm sure it needs crank sensor in order to start!?

so i BIT the bullet and yanked the HB!(balancer) and what do you know! i found part of my serpentine belt in there and the CKP busted! the belt i noticed missing a couple grooves i dont know how long ago.....and it was new TOP LINE belt about a yr ago or so! funny thing is when i bought the van it had the remains of a belt like 2 grooves and the owner said been like that for months also said he replaced HB before.

an getting that thing OFF was NO easy job like the youtube vids!! who's freakin idea was it to use 1/4 FINE THREAD bolts!? anything to save a pennys worth of METAL i suppose in the CUTTHROAT world of auto PRODUCTION!? so when i put it back together i cranked it and NOTHING! so i went and looked down the side of motor and it LOOKED like the BALANCER was CROOKED!? how could that be!? so anyway i decide to pop it off again and used the jam the ratchet trick like before and when i went to crank it its started but i only flipped the key quick so it quit immediately! pulled balancer and could find no fault!? well i quit at that point and thats where i'm at now try again tomorrow. cant figure why HB did not look parallel with other pulleys!? cant recall that ever before!

The balancers come apart sometimes also there is a balancer installer you can rent to make sure it's all the way in.If it's not installed correctly it could effect things.

oh yeah when removing i pulled it to far with main bolt still grabbing is it possible i bent it somehow!? i suspect its cheap aftermarket copy cuz i noticed crappy alignment of inner vane plates and removal holes.

guess i'll do some measuring on flat surface to see if belt pulley is true befor i put it back on.

i thought just tightening bolt was good enough for install?

Not always sometimes you need the balancer installer to make sure it goes on straight and all the way in.Also did you make sure the key is still in and lined up?

so i looked things over and it all looked good put it back on same way with bolt since it has large flange and washer which guide install. it started i watched the pulley running true but compare to others looks out of line but belt runs fine so done with that. bad news it still runs bad at at start with any pedal and during acceleration. multiple misfire. after warm up is slightly better but i still have some work to do! took a plug out it looked light reddish tan.

If the pulley groove is out of line compared to the other pulleys it might not be 9n far enough.Thats why I suggested to use a balancer installer they rent them at auto zone.

so i know i felt it bottom out when installing confident it's on all the way. back on the road maybe ty auto store again for code read 1 place looked like it had fancy reader.

Sounds keep me posted

so popped off the air cleaner tube to look in the TB and what the heck it has a mesh over the front!? what is THAT!? tried cleaning it didnt make any difference in the way it runs.