Low/rough idle

Yes, you are on the right track, choking can cause the problem are you describing. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Unfortunately I already did that and still no luck. I plan on putting the injector cleaner in and spraying some throttle body cleaner into the intake while the car is running to break up the deposits in the intake manifold. Do you think this would help or not? Thanks!

You could have low compression in one cylinder causing the issue as well can you do a compression test by following this guide?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Compression test seemed like it checked out fine. Standing in front of the car going from left to right: cylinder 1- 190psi, 2-200, 3-200, 4-200. Spark plugs looked good as well. I made sure to pull the fuel pump fuse and relay as well as the wires going to the distributor. When I started it back up, the rpms shot up to 4000 before I turned it off. I tried it again and same thing. Not sure whats next. Thanks!

The compression is great, what did the spark plugs look like can you shoot a picture of them and upload it? It sounds like you may have a bad fuel injector and seeing the plugs will tell us which cylinder.

Spark plugs looked fine, a nice dry light brown/tan color. There was some oil around the plug area though. I could snap a picture when I get home.

Have you run the codes? It would be a good idea to see if anything comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know

All it showed was code 12 which I think means there are no codes. Tried starting it again and rpms wend right back up to 4000

We are getting closer. I think you have a IAC motor that is dirty or needs replacement.

Here are diagrams to help you remove and replace the unit.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Ok, That was one of the parts I cleaned. Do you think just replacing the whole thing would make a difference? Thanks!

Yep it should, but first run this vacuum leak test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://youtu.be/4ktw1X4W_-k

Please let us know

Cheers, Ken

I found this fuel line thay was gummed up with this orange waxy stuff. Not sure what this goes to but im going to look more into it. As far as the vaccum test, I cant spray the carb cleaner anywhere since the engine rpms are too high. If I need to get a tester I can. Its just weird that this wasnt my original problem so it probably has something to do with me cranking the engine with the fuel relay and fuse out.

That line was going to the charcol vapor canister. I cleaned the line out. Not sure if this would effect anything

So I cleaned that and also bought a new throttle body gasket. Its running like before with the vairiable idle to almost a stall when it warms up. No more high rpms. I did the leak test and couldnt find anything. Any idea on what to do next? Thanks!

I had an idea that it might be a sticking EGR valve. Here is a video showing you how to check the valve and a diagram on its location.

https://youtu.be/DqUCbbKdWf4

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

I wish but I already replaced that. So maybe the IAC?

Yep that is where I was going next. Let me know what happens.

So I replaced the IAC and started up and idle just back up to 3-4000 rpm’s again. Please help!

Can you disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle bore and start it up to see what happens?