car would not start.

2015 MAZDA 6
47,000 MILES • 2.2L • 4 CYL • TURBO • FWD • MANUAL
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JAMIESMA
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I purchased a 65 plate Mazda 6 2.2D SE-L at the end of April. After a month or so, the oil filter dropped out and poured the entire contents of the engine’s oil onto the floor. The car was driven in limp mode for a few meters like this but no more, so I am hoping it has nothing to do with the problems it has now. Then a few weeks ago the car would nott start. Had RAC come out who eventually got it started but could not find a cause. They reckoned it was most likely rollback and that sufficient pressure just needed building up to push the air through.

Thursday afternoon the SCBS Malfunction light came on. This has come on before then cleared when the car was restarted, so I carried on to my destination then restarted the car thinking it would be gone. Instead, the SCBS warning remained, but was also joined by a DSC malfunction and an engine system malfunction warning light. The next day I figured I would drive my partner to work (seventy five mile round trip), and call in to the dealer in the afternoon. On the way back, the warnings were joined by a PM Accumulation in DPF warning. I thought this was weird as the car is purely used for long distance driving, and at 150 miles a day I would have thought the DPF would regularly get warm enough to burn any soot off. But I followed the car’s warning, filled it up in case it was too low to force an active regeneration, got it warm then drove up and down the motorway a good few times keeping the revs high enough. Nothing worked though, it would not regenerate and now my car has been joined by a fifth warning, DPF Malfunction.

I do not seem to be getting many trouble codes through the EOBD port. P2118 keeps coming up, but seemingly nothing about the SCBS or DSC. For one brief moment I got a trouble code of P1260, probably because the engine had not been switched on for long, and P2458, but that has now disappeared. The car has manufacturer warranty being only two years old and 47,000 miles, but they will tell me it is DPF and not covered. Any ideas what is going on here, and why suddenly the car would have a cascade of so many warnings?
Aug 26, 2017 at 8:47 AM
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JAMIESMA
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Thought I would update on here as it may end up helping someone else if they run into a similar issue. Called RAC out, they tried to force a regeneration at the roadside but the car would not do it, as the P2118 code is stopping it. P2118 relates to the throttle actuator, so that is why the SCBS and DSC warnings came on. It is also why the car has deactivated the cruise control. And as the car uses the throttle for the regen, it is not allowing it and hence it is now building up with soot.
Aug 26, 2017 at 2:05 PM
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STEVE W.
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Thanks for the update. Being a modern diesel with enough computer power to run a small country you would think they could at least spell out what the codes really mean.

Unfortunately we will not be getting the diesel in the US as it has failed EPA testing twice and has basically been cancelled until the next generation of six comes out or later. We only get the 2.5 petrol engine.
Aug 26, 2017 at 11:34 PM
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JAKUB WU
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Hi, I bought 2016 Mazda 6 sport manual DIESEL on 9th December 2017. (1st reg end of March 2016)
On that day when I was about to drive out from dealer I got 3 warnings when they started the engine:
SCBS(F), DSC, and engine malfunction. They took the car to service quickly and I got it back after 30 minutes and they were claiming that everything is OK. Never told me what was wrong etc. I think I saw code P2118 just like you.
Anyway I took the car and got SCBS(F), DSC on 10th(Sunday) 12th(called dealer - steam etc) 21st (was flying out) 28th (temperature/steam) 29th (I need to call for inspection). It was always disappearing on engine restart or next day. Sometimes showing after whole day of work sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes quicker. When called dealer they said it might be sensor temperature/steam etc. I decided to book inspection after new year and got 4th January available. In service they said they found lots of errors in the system memory and P2118! which was just cleared in the past (has to be when I drove the car from dealer on 9yh). Also coolant level was WAY below Low (how?in serviced car 1 month ago?). Service topped it up and found no leak.. ?!). Dealer never told me what they done to the car on 9th Dec. Service called them and they have nothing in records! Looks like clearly they masking tracks leading to them selling me faulty car. Mazda approved car was faulty and shouldn't be sold! Anyway I got later again SCBS(F), DSC on 4th. On 11th January 2018 I got SCBS(F), DSC and engine malfunction! Called for recovery. Awaiting inspection next week. The worst part is they will only check what mazda will tell them and follow the check tree so they cannot check valves and carbon build up for me. To be hones after what I read about it I dont want to have this car anymore. Issues from day1 and now driving courtesy car. Lets see what they will find on Wednesday/Thursday.
I would like to get my money back because they sold me car with errors so clearly its a violation of the deal that it has been inspected, was approved etc.
Jan 13, 2018 at 6:48 AM
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STEVE W.
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Good luck. The dealers all seem to have the same issues, "Hey this car is perfect and you will really love it, anything you find wrong will be taken care of immediately and we will do whatever is needed to make it right"... So you look it over and buy the car.

Couple weeks pass and you have an issue so you call the "friendly dealer" who assured you things would be made right and they suddenly forget who you are and that they sold you the car !

One thing you can do, contact the regional Mazda representative and talk to them, or even step up to talking to the head office if needed.
Jan 13, 2018 at 8:47 AM
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JAMIESMA
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Best of luck getting your Mazda fixed. In the end, mine went back to the local Mazda dealer for warranty repairs. A few days later I received a phone call telling me that the previous owner (Enterprise Rent-a-Car) hadn't serviced the car at the correct intervals and therefore the car had no warranty. I spent a week arguing with the head office of the (non-Mazda) dealer I bought the car from as they assured me that it had full warranty.

Eventually, the Mazda dealership spoke to Head Office who said they might to do the work under warranty anyway if I authorised them to take the engine apart to take pictures of the carbon build-up. Following this they agreed to do the work, which I believe ended up being a throttle actuator replacement, manifold replacement and an engine de-carb to remove the carbon build-up. This however, took around 6 weeks, and during the entire time I was repeatedly told that they were waiting on a part and not given an estimated completion date. I ended up speaking to Mazda Roadside Assistance through the number in the handbook, then asking them to put me through to a regional manager, who then liaised with the local dealership and got the work done.

TLDR: If you find your local dealer dragging their heels, make a complaint through Mazda head office who Mazda Roadside Assistance can put you through to. Mazda head office do not like it when one of their local dealerships don't meet their standards.
Jan 13, 2018 at 9:04 AM
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STRAILER
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Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken
Jan 16, 2018 at 10:47 AM
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JAKUB WU
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Hello,

I dont remember how it really goes but:
They found issue with - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC)
Part has been replaced, it was not operating (closing?) properly
I have asked is it due to carbon build-up etc? but they havent seen anything and TAC was not correctly positioned they said (how is that possible? after 2 years?)
Anyway (I dont remember exact words) SCBS(F), DSC were showing up because TAC is connected or belongs to the same cable/system(?! or something) to which traction control system (TCS) belongs so when TAC has an issue TSC might start throwing errors too.
Finally I saw SCBS(F) working in my car when tried as always drive under slowly opening barrier when getting out from work - IT IS NOT POSSIBLE anymore! car is braking and beeping.
Jan 20, 2018 at 3:46 AM
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STRAILER
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We need to codes that are present now, can you read them and get back to us?

Please follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
Jan 20, 2018 at 12:58 PM
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JAKUB WU
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Sorry for the late reply. I don't know those codes unfortunately. Later on at 26,000 miles I asked Mazda about carbon build up in my car and it was identified and cleaned. Since that moment no warning lights until May 2019 when they stared appearing and even the engine malfunction warning light which disappeared after 2 days somehow. Car was at around 55,000 miles. Recently at 62,000 got twice DPF sooth high level + SCBS front + DSC + engine malfunction when the car is constantly driven on motorways. I don't have the codes but it was again carbon build up which the dealer identified and cleaned free of charge again. So Mazda is aware of the issue and helpful. Next time I will see those lights I will think of carbon build up return.
Nov 20, 2019 at 11:16 AM
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STRAILER
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Thanks for getting back to us. Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
Nov 20, 2019 at 11:22 AM
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I have a 2008 mazda 6 and recently the check engine light came on. it acts like it doesn't want to start when I put gas in it and i have to push down the gas for it to start. its starting to shake a little to its kind of loud when i speed up.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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CJ MEDEVAC
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before you start monkeying with stuff!

see if you can make it down to the local popular auto parts store

they have portable scanners and they will be able to extract any codes your computer has generated (the reason the check engine light came on)normally this is a free service

the scanner will pick up a code(s) (stupid examples p0123, p0124)

sometimes the auto store will offer suggestions as to what might be wrong, some codes are obvious, others may be interpreted different ways in conjunction with you cars symptoms

you can "google" the codes, sorta go by the parts stores suggestions, or you can bring the "exact code numbers and letters" and the cars symptoms back here (not the suggestions), and maybe we can offer a solution too

imma jeep cj guy and respond better to them, if i am unable to offer advice, i will locate another feller here that may be more experienced with your vehicle----many will jump in on their own to help without me looking

depending on the problem this could be something simple and a ez diy repair. hopefully it will be an inexpensive fix

waitin' for your response. regardless of how you attack your issue

the medic
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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i took it to a auto zone and the scanner said i was getting to much oxygen to my fuel
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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ANGLOBATIC
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the harnes was ripped out by theives
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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You need to get the harness repaired/replaced. The MIL should be indicating and that is because of missing wiring connections.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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ALREEDER09
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Car will not start. The engine is turning over, we checked the fuel line and the fuel is being pumped into the engine. We disconnected and reconnected the battery. I checked my fuel levels and everything is fine. I added a little oil to make sure there was plenty.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.


Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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RONNIE BATTILLO
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will not start when turning the ignition
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Do below to determine if its a fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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WAYNE SANUIK
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The car runs perfect above 5 degrees. Below 5 the car will will turn over but not fire. Is this a computer problem. It's been checked by 2 mechanic's and no problem could be found. Is this a common problem?
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Will it start with starter fluid at that temp?
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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WAYNE SANUIK
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No.. It will start perfect once the temperature goes above 5
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Okay, when it doesn't start, I need you to check for spark (and fuel) to the engine. It sounds like there is no spark.

Let me know so I can focus on the right system, electrical or fuel. It sounds like the electrical / ignition.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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BOBBY2292
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I have a 2004 mazda 6 that I just bought and when I bought it, it was wrecked in the front. The air bags on both sides are deployed. The owners told me they took the alarm system off of the car and put it on their other car. After buying the car I tried to start it but it won't start, I've even tried spraying ether into the throttle body, but that doesn't work either. After charging the battery and trying to start it, it sounds like it wants to start but never does, what it the problem? Is it the engine itself, or some type of electrical problem?
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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MMCCLURG
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Having starting problems. Battery good. problems Started when weather dropped below 30 degrees. Filled gas tank. Used can of Iso Heat in gas tank. Car started when 50 degrees last weekend, now will not start when below 20 degrees even in garage. Mazda Dealer said it could be fuel pump problem. $800 repair.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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MHPAUTOS
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can you hear the pump run? it should do so for a few sec with the key on, have a listen, let me know,

mark (mhpautos)
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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MMCCLURG
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I hear something running affter I shut the engine off for a couple seconds. Similar sound when trying to start the engin.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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MHPAUTOS
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The pump should run for a few sec when you first turn on the ignition, back off a fuel line and place it in a container, turn on ignition, you should get a good stream of fuel for a few sec then it should turn off, can you check this?

Mark (mhpautos)
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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SAMUELJB
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my car won't start when I try to start it the engine light and radio goes on but it won't start
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Does the starter make any noise? Are you sure the battery is good? Are the battery terminals clean and tight?
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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SAMUELJB
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My battery is good and the terminals are new and tight it just makes a sound like its on radio but it won't turn on
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Does the starter engage?
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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DRALACE
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I noticed that my car has not started on the first go. It tries to start but it stalls after few seconds. When i start it the second time it starts normally. And second thing i noticed that in every gear after 3000 rpm the torque is low that it cannot accelerate the car on those rpm's.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it you may need an adapter.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:14 PM (Merged)
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JFLUTY85
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The car started after a jump and would not hold a charge so I replaced the alternator and changed spark plugs everything worked fine went to work next morning started right up drove to work no problems get off work ten hours later car would not start just cranked. I towed it home replaced fuel pump, still does not start. I replaced the camshaft position sensor still, does not start and when I crank it makes a funny noise now and try's to turnover, but still does not start.
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:15 PM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can only be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem is not present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That is what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the information required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the positive terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Nov 20, 2019 at 5:15 PM (Merged)
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TUGNUTT
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Sometimes eng. won't start . leave alone for hour or two and it starts fine. OBDII just reads err when linked up to DTC. New battery 4 months ago
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:15 PM (Merged)
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LEGITIMATE007
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mostlikely when the scan tool has a problem linking up it is a computer problem, did you do the scan yourself?
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:15 PM (Merged)
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TUGNUTT
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Yes, pretty simple maybe OBDII is not working right? It is impossible to plug in wrong and it had new batteries also. Anyway car will start now
Nov 20, 2019 at 5:15 PM (Merged)