no electrical power?

Follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative battery wire to the body and be sure that one is tight also this guide can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thank you I found the negative battery cable undone from the engine block once I reattached it everything works again. great site btw. I cant believe it is free.

Or anything besides oil light and engine light on. but all fuses are good. Replaced the battery ground wire OEM style and cut the positive terminal off replaced with another . Now put the key in oil light on and engine light no click rest of dash dark, no lights , radio or any accessories. I don't know what I could have done. Any ideas?

Hello,

This could be a problem with fuse 19[80A] or fuse 20[40A], or both, being blown. They are both located in the Under hood Fuse Box which I have included diagrams with callouts in the diagrams down below. I have also included the starting circuit wiring diagram for you as well. Here is a link below to a guide explaining how to check a fuse, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Please check these fuses and report back with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2Carpros

All fuses are good I pulled those 2 fuses out and checked . Crazy part is with key on I have power to all my fuses except the power windows but the fuses are good.

If I plug in a code reader . The car will start, but if I turn on any electrical accessory lights on dash go crazy. Unplug reader car shuts down.

Hello again,

Okay, so this could be a problem with the wire going from pin 5 of the Data Link Connector[DLC], where the scan tool plugs into. In the diagrams I have included a pinout diagram of the DLC. Please inspect the wire from pin 5 and report back with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Car was starting & running without issues. Turned-off engine and ran radio and fan for about 20 minutes. Turned-off fan and radio. Few minutes later, attempted to start engine. Starter just clicked as if battery was run-down. After a few unsuccessful attempts, clicking stop and no electrical components were working (Brake lights and hazard lights still worked). Cleaned battery terminals, but still no electrical. Attempted to jump-start car battery, but still no electrical. Charged battery, but still no electrical. Took battery to local parts store to be tested, battery tested good in all aspects. Checked fuses, all look ok. After re-installing battery, attempted to push start car but no electrical and, thus car did not start. Summary: battery is original to car (5-yrs), but tested good. Fuses seem ok. Terminals are clean. No loose bolts, nuts or wire connections found. Hazard light and brake lights work, but no dash, parking lights, headlights, turn-signals, radio, or dome light. Car will not jump or push-start.

Hi barrelmaker,

With ignition ON, does the meter cluster work?

Check for power supply to ignition switch or a faulty switch.

Fuses sometimes look ok, test them with a test light to be sure.

Yes, checked fuses with tester - all check good. Nothing appears in gage cluster with ignition ON. Changed out ignition switch, before discovering that no power is getting to switch. Only electrical are horn, brake lights, & hazard lights - nothing else. Wondering if problem involves immobilizer. If so, immobilizer works geat! (Small green "key" light does not light-up when key is turned.) No electrical activity at all except previously described.

Hi barrelmaker,

If no power supply to ignition, check the main fuse box main fuses. If all fuses ok, Check for loose or corroded connectors under the fuse box.

Since you have immo, power from fuse box would have to go through its control relay, check their connections.

Hi, I recently attempted to install a few very small aftermarket LEDs into the interior of my car. The main power was supposed to be connected to a fuse with constant power in the car using a special fuse adapter. I connected this to the radio fuse in the car. There was a black wire attached to the light also meant to be used as a ground, the instructions stated that the ground is to be attached to the nearest bolt for grounding, I attached the black wire to the bolt in the first picture shown below. I reconnected the battery and turned the car ignition to the first (power only) switch, the wires connected to the bolt sparked a little and it startled me so i turned the power back off. I decided that it was probably normal so I turned it back on. After that the one test light was working and glowing. I decided that all was well and continued to hook up the other three with the negative on the battery disconnected. When i turned the power back on to test the three there was a lot more sparks from where I had attempted to ground all three onto the same bolt that is shown in the picture below.

Smoke started rising so I immediately turned the key to off. I attempted to start the car at this point thinking maybe it was somewhat like last time. My major problem now was that the car is not starting at all. There are no clicking noises or anything. The power to the headlights and overhead lights is on and bright even when trying to turn the key in the ignition all of the lights stay very bright. The turn signals do not work but yet the emergency lights are working. I checked every blade styled fuse in the fusebox and changed a few just in case including the radio fuse that I had originally connected the lights to. The lights have been completely removed and all of the wires have been taken out. If the problem is one of the larger black boxes on the boards I have no idea how to check to see if these are stil ok and I do not know how to change them. My best guess so far has been that something shorted out the solenoid on the starter. However my knowledge is very limited and I am not really sure if i am in the right area. I have included pictures below of the engine and the battery in hopes that someone could point out where the starter is in this car particularly, as i have not been able to follow the battery wires to it successfully. Thanks, Derrick.

Use the fuse box cover for location and make sure that fuse is good. In your power distribution center under the hood, locate fuse #6. Check your ELD unit. You also need to check your immobilizer circuit fuse #9

Under the dash, locate fuses #1, #4, #7, #10 and #17.

If you have alarm you need to check these as well.
Under hood #2, #7, #15, #17 and #19. Under dash fuses #15 and #20.

While driving usually under 40mph, the electrical system shuts down and comes right up.
It will stall when this happens when idyling, but I am able to restart.

Radio shuts off, tach goes down to 0, speedometer drops to 0, then restarts right away.
Upon restart, the SRS red light comes on, radio starts, and meters resume at the speed it was.

Has happened when driven only few miles, or consistently after about an hour or so. I have a 1.5 hour commute. This week only happened on Thurs and Friday.

try cleaning the battery terminal ends first to make sure there is a good connection. then check belt and tensioner 60kis recommended replacement for both.

going down the road the cars light will surge and cut off randomly. It seems to do it worse when its hot outside. I start it back up with out putting it in neutral.. The dash lights, radio, etc stays on. Fans and coolant has been replaced. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hi uthnkunome27,

Do you mean the dash indicators are cutting on and off randomly? If yes, it could be a fault with the ignition switch.

Otherwise, get the charging rate checked. Some connectors could be loose.

Im sorry. The whole car will shut off going down the road. The key has to be used to restart the car. It doesnt have to be in netrual. Just turn the key and off she goes like nothing ever happened.

Yours is an automatic and gauging from the restarting condition, the engine is cutting off even at cruising speeds.

Since the ignition switch has to be used to restart, I believe that is the first thing you should check. Possibly the contacts are failing. Check if the ignition switch is hot aty the rear when this occurs, indicating the switch is bad.

motor turns over but doesn't start... cluster doesn't light up so i guess it means no power to fuel pump. also,power windows don't work...i changed the main relay and the cluster lit up and car started. it ran fine for about a day and it just died on me while driving and it didn't start again.. i installed a new relay but this time it didn't do the job. the relay seems to be fine ( tested it on a different car). the fuses are all ok. i thought maybe the ignition switch but since the motor turns over; discarded the idea. im lost... please help. thank you

The ignition switch is bad when the cluster indicators do not turn on.

The ON circuit has failed while the START circuit is still functional, that is the reason it can crank but does not fire up.

thank you so much! ...car is running youre the best

You're welcome.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.

Hi. I just had the engine replaced in my 1985 Honda Civic 4 door wagon with a rebuilt ATK engine. It was put in by a local mechanic in Anchorage. It started fine for 2 weeks and then it wouldn't start the other day. So I cleaned the battery terminals and checked the battery power, which checked out ok. After reattaching the battery terminals and jiggling them around, the car got electrical power and started fine. Yesterday the car wouldn't start again and I am getting no electrical power to any of the car's lights, radio or anything else. So I did the following

1. Checked the battery again-its ok
2. replaced the 55 amp, and two 45 amp main fuses.
3. cleaned the battery terminals again
4. checked and replaced the 10 amp fuse coming off the positive terminal of the battery
5. checked the engine ground connection from the negative battery terminal. It seems ok
6. Checked all the 10-15 amp fuses under the dashboard-they are ok.
Still I am getting now electrical charge to any of the car's circuits. So what's next, where do I go from here?
I did replace the positive terminal battery lead cables last may 2008.
Thanks for your help.

John Damberg

Get yourself a DVOM digital volt/ohm meter. Then use the process of elimination to see which part under the hood that cuts off the circuit.

Start with the battery. I know you checked it, check it again. Record the battery voltage, so you know what you should be getting everywhere. Follow the positive cable from the battery to the main fuse/relay block. Pull your main fuse. Probe the fuse housing. Do you have power? If YES, go to the next fuse. If NO, find the break in that particular circuit. Check all circuits/fuses in that fuse /relay block. If I am to guess, you have one maybe more, fusible link that are broken.