Check engine light

your fuel lmileage may not be the best and stuff wont' work right probably. up t o you to drive it . if it's only a n O2 sensor it won't hurt much.

the Check engine light, VSC and 4WD lights came on all at once, on my 2008 Rav4 w/ 36,800 miles. Any thoughts on what could have caused this an what the problem my be??

Check engine light on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

A few days I asked about my Rav 4 and a broken rocker arm. I picked my car up after the rocker arm was replace and drove it home 30 miles, the next morning it did the same thing as far as skipping: and the check engine light and auto LSD light blinking continuously. The service dept said it was carbon build up making the rocker arms jump back off. And that wasn't covered under warranty, cost me $140.00. What do you think? Do I have a lemon? What should I do?

Carbon build-up at 19000 miles? How would you expect people to buy that? Get back to the service dept and insist they find the solution to your problem.
Something is definitely wrong with the engine and if it occurred twice, it is going to happen again and the problem to be covered under warranty.

I had oil changed drove 200200 miles then vsc 4wd4wd check engine light came on after opening hood I found oil cap was not put on and oil spray on motor

replace cap. add oil and you will have to clean off the motor. a sensor most likely got wet.

what was the code.

Roy

I have a problem, usually uphill but not every time. Vsc/trc lamp and the engine light lights up, and i loose all engine power. I can just turn off the engine and turn it back on to keep on driving. Then the vsc/trc lights is gone but the engine light is still on but it goes away after a few hours or the next day...

scan fro codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Toyota Rav4 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 48445. miles

engine light came on. took it in and it was put on computer. they said found code po440 po441 po446 internal failure in the charcoal canister and rec gas cap. they want 577. to repair. how do i know this is right?

Those engine codes do indicate faults in these components. The estimate is also right on for these repairs. The parts is the most expensive, with the canister costing $300 alone. Add the fuel cap and 2 hours of labor at approx. $75 / hour this adds up very close to your estimate

I have cleaned the MAF & replaced the air filter, disconnected the battery to reset the computer, light came back on about 10 miles later. Car is running better since the cleaning (low idle when first started, little acceleration going uphill). How do I find out if it's the sparkplugs, O2 sensor, needs new MAF, vacuum leak or something else? Seems there are a lot of possibiltiies to cause this. Any ideas?

Hi starwisher115,

When the MIL indicates, trouble code(s) would be stored in the Power Control Module. You would need to retrieve the trouble code to understand what is cauing the MIL to show.

Get a free scan done at Autozone and let me know the exact trouble code so I can assit in solving the problem.

[quote:a0b4941d70="starwisher115"]Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Toyota Rav4 4 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 64000 miles

I have cleaned the MAF & replaced the air filter, disconnected the battery to reset the computer, light came back on about 10 miles later. Car is running better since the cleaning (low idle when first started, little acceleration going uphill). How do I find out if it's the sparkplugs, O2 sensor, needs new MAF, vacuum leak or something else? Seems there are a lot of possibiltiies to cause this. Any ideas?[/quote:a0b4941d70]
I had the codes read & got PO171. Have also noticed turning on the A.C. really affects the acceleration & idle.
I didn't remove the MAF when I cleaned it, Would that have made a difference?
Is there any site that would give me step by step directions on replacing the MAF myself?

Here are the description of the code and diagnostic procedures.

DTC P0171 OR P0172: SYSTEM TOO LEAN/RICH (EXCEPT CALIF. EMISSIONS)
Circuit Description
Fuel trim refers to feedback compensation value compared against basic injection time. Fuel trim
includes short-term and long -term fuel trim.
DTC P0171 is set when fuel trim is driven rich beyond a certain value. Possible causes are:
 Air induction system malfunction.
 Fuel injector restricted.
 Defective Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
 Defective Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
 Improper fuel pressure.
 Exhaust system leak.
 Heated oxygen sensor No. 1 circuit is open or shorted.
 Defective heated oxygen sensor No. 1.
 Defective ECM.
DTC P0172 is set when fuel trim is driven lean beyond a certain value. Possible causes are:
 Fuel injector restricted or leaking.
 Defective Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
 Defective Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
 Ignition system malfunction.
 Improper fuel pressure.
 Exhaust system leak.
 Heated oxygen sensor No. 1 circuit is open or shorted.
 Defective heated oxygen sensor No. 1.
 Defective ECM.

Diagnostic Aids
When DTC P0171 is recorded, actual air fuel ratio is too lean. When DTC P0172 is recorded, actual
air fuel ratio is too rich. If vehicle runs out of fuel, DTC P0171 will be set. Using scan tool, read
freeze frame data. Freeze frame records engine conditions when malfunction is detected.
Diagnosis & Repair
CAUTION: If ECM replacement is instructed in following testing, always ensure ECM connectors and ground circuit are okay. If either are suspect, repair and repeat testing to confirm ECM malfunction.
NOTE: Heated oxygen sensor No. 1 refers to oxygen sensor closest to engine block. Heated oxygen sensor No. 2 refers to oxygen sensor farthest
from engine block.
1. Ensure oil dipstick, oil filler cap, PCV system and all other air induction system components are intact and operating properly. If problem exists, repair as necessary. If problem does not exist, go to next step.
2. Check fuel injectors. If problem exists, repair as necessary. If problem does not exist, go to next step.
3. Check Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. If problem exists, replace appropriate component. If problem does not exist, go to next step.
4. Check spark and ignition system. If problem exists, repair as necessary. If problem does not exist, go to next step.
5. Check fuel pressure. If fuel pressure is not within specification, repair as necessary. If fuel pressure is within specification, go to next step.
6. Check exhaust system for leaks. If problem exists, repair as necessary. If problem does not exist, go to next step.
7. Connect scan tool to Data Link Connector (DLC) No. 3. Start engine and increase engine speed to 2500 RPM for approximately 90 seconds. Let engine idle. Using scan tool, monitor heated oxygen sensor No. 1 output voltage. Voltage should alternate repeatedly from less than .4 volt to more than .5 volt. If voltage is as specified, go to step 9 . If voltage is not as specified, go to next step.
8. Check for open or short in wiring between ECM and heated oxygen sensor No. 1. If problem exists, repair wiring as necessary. If problem does
not exist, replace heated oxygen sensor No. 1.
9. Perform test drive confirmation, then go to next step.
10. Clear and recheck for DTCs. If DTC P0171 and/or P0172 are displayed again, replace ECM. If neither DTC P0171 nor P0172 is displayed again, go to next step.
11. Vehicle either ran out of fuel or problem is intermittent. Check component and ECM connections.
© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

MAF is plugged into air cleaner housing and can be remove after taking out the holding bolts. No tricks in a straight forward job.

WHY DOES MY VSC TRAC WARNING AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAY ON

An error has been detected by the engine management system and you need a scan to retrieve the trouble code, proceed with repairs to rectify the fault and erase the trouble code to have the MIL go off.

Is it wise to buy this model as I have heard there are problems with the engine management warnings?

RAV4's are great cars, and normally very reliable, buying second hand is always a gamble as you often do not know the service history of the car, if you like it, ask the owner if you can get it checked over by a mechanic first, if they are honest and they feel the car is in fair condition, they should not have a problem, if they say no, well don't bother as they may be trying to hide something, all cars have check systems now, these are internal self test systems that tell you when you have a problem, the mechanic can do a scan to see what has been set in the past and if there are any current codes as not all codes will set a check light.

Engine light is reads p0446 would it be worth getting fix

thats a personal decision.

446 is an evap code.

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The vapor pressure sensor, VSV for Canister Closed Valve (CCV), VSV for pressure switching valve are used to detect abnormalities in the evaporative emission control system.

The ECM decides whether or not there is an abnormality in the evaporative emission control system by the vapor pressure sensor signal.

DTCs P0441 and P0446 are recorded by the ECM when evaporative emissions leak from the components within the dotted line in Fig. 1, or when there is a malfunction in the VSV for EVAP, the VSV for pressure switching valve or in the vapor pressure sensor itself.

Wiring Diagram




INSPECTION PROCEDURE

HINT:
If DTC P0441, P0446, P0450 or P0451 is output after DTC P0440, first troubleshoot DTC P0441, P0446, P0450 or P0451. If no other malfunctions than them are detected, troubleshoot DTC P0440 next.
Read freeze frame data using the TOYOTA hand-held tester or OBD II scan tool, as freeze frame data records the engine conditions when the malfunction is detected. When troubleshooting, it is useful for determining whether the vehicle was running or stopped, the engine was warmed up or not, the air-fuel ratio was lean or rich, etc. at the time of the malfunction.

Problem: Check engine Light stays on in warm weather.
Toyota, RAV4, 2000, engine size: 2 Liters, 39,000 miles,
OBD2 Code Reader Indicates Two Error Codes:
1) PO171: System Too Lean (Bank 1)
2) P1130: Air-Fuel Sensor Circuit Range / Performance.
What do I need to replace to fix the Check engine Light so I do not have the check engine light on all the time?

BOB B
e-mail: [email protected].

First thing I would check for is an air leak such as on the snorkel going to the throttle body. Also check the oil cap, dipstick and pcv valve for proper seating. The first code is probably the result of the second one. However the strategy is to check the po171 first. It isn't as simple as just replacing a part based on a code as autozone would like you to think. According to Mitchell 1:

Since the problem happens in warm weather. I would lean towards testing the ECT as well as checked the the air leak.

My check engine light recently came on in my '01 Toyota Rav-4 (107,000 miles). I took it to Autozone and the error code was P1135 - Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1). It also said that the probable cause was either (1) Open or Short Circuit Condition, or (2) Poor electrical connection.

I've looked at a lot of forums online, and I guess this has something to do with the upstream O2 sensor, on the firewall side of the left exhaust manifold.

What I'm really asking here is, Is this a serious problem? Is it something I need to get fixed right away? See, because of my present circumstances, I don't have any expendable income for the next three months. If it's a repair job costing more than $20, I simply can't fix it. Will my car be destroyed?

Thanks in advance for any responses!

A bad sensor may prevent the system from going into closed loop, and usually causes the fuel mixture to run rich causing an increase in fuel consumption and emissions.

I have a check engine light constantly on. I took it to the auto parts store who has a gauge or whatever it's called that reads the check engine light. It says that theres a misfire on cylinders 1&2. They say that it's either the spark plugs, coils, or injectors that are bad. I have replaced all the spark plugs and have tswitched coil 1 & 3 with each other and it still reads there's a misfire on 1&2 so I figure that the coils are fine. Do u believe that this anlalysis is correct and that it is indeed the injectors?

Also on a seperate note what is the 4 spark plug looking "things" that are attached to whatever it is just below or in front of the engine block. They have wiring which at the end has a clip that is clipped into another clip. Thanks

Check the compression and injectors for those cylinders

My engine light came on about a month ago then a couple of weeks later, I noticed that the car shakes when turning it on. It shakes pretty bad but goes away after I start driving it. It shakes while it is in idle but not when I reverse or drive. I think it is getting worse and feels like its going to stop running.

The shaking means the engine is misfiring and it is likely the result of ignoring the Check Engine light. When it turns on that means the Engine Computer detected a problem, often before it turns serious, and it set a diagnostic fault code to tell you what that problem is. The place to start is by having the code(s) read and recorded. They will indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis.

I have 3 indicator lights solid on for a few days - check engine, AWD, slippery indicator.
Took my Toyota Venza to dealer diagnostic costs $162.00 and said need to replace AF + O2 sensor which will cost $1,200.00. Does this seem right or am I getting swindled?

Hi,

By chance, do you know what codes were retrieved?

Do me a favor. We missed this post because it was added on to a Rav 4 post. I need you to repost your question as a new one. We try to keep the posts specific to one type of vehicle and problem, so it is more helpful to others.

Here is the link to start a new thread. Simply copy and paste your question into a new one. Also, please provide codes if you know them because what you described doesn't make sense as far as what is happening.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

I hope you understand. I will watch for your new post.

Joe