Clicking on startup, turned into knock?

Hello SANTEFE2009,

I think doing a fresh oil and filter change with some good oil would be worth it to see if it gets better.

There is a TSB or Technical Service Bulletin about an engine knock noise.

I have attached the TSB for you.

You will need to go to the dealer, either Hyundai or Kia, and get the OEM Oil Filter. Then use some good oil. I use Castrol Edge myself. It isn't cheap, but it is worth it.

Your vehicle should take 6.0 quarts of either 5w20 in colder temperatures or 5w30 in warmer temperatures.

Let me know how it goes.

Thank you,
Brendon

Thank you so much. I copied your post so that I can make sure to have access to it. sounds like by the sound of the suggestion about good oil and filter you did hear the clip. Thank you so much. I have been so worried and without the car for about a month now. I have to try to drive tomorrow to work and need it to last a little longer. I appreciate your advice!

Hello SANTEFE2009,

You're welcome. I am happy to help. :)

If you go somewhere to have it done your best bet is to bring your own oil and filter.

Unfortunately, some places will put cheaper parts on and charge for the OEM parts. Not everyone but some.

The OEM filter is designed specifically with your engine in mind. I find it is always best to use the filter from the dealer.

Let me know if it isn't better after the oil change, and we will start looking at other things.

But I think with that TSB it should fix it.

Hope you have a great night.

Thank you,
Brendon

I found the oil you recommended- they do sell high mileage as well as I have seen oil additive recommendations prior to now,, should I stay w 6 of 5/30 because it’s warm most of the year where I am or go w the 5qt and leave I Qt room for an oil additive like moly or something?
Hyundai has the filter- I’ll go pick up if it’s not too much, she didn’t have a price on the phone .thanks so much.

Hello SANTEFE2009,

6 quarts of 5w30 is all you need. High Mileage is good I use that. Then a factory oil filter. It shouldn't be too expensive.

That is all you need. I wouldn't use any additives. That oil has all your engine will need and meets all specifications for your engine set forth by Hyundai.

The 5W30 vs the 5W20 means the oil viscosity will be 5 for both oils when cold. The "W" stands for winter, believe it or not. But when the vehicle is at operating temperature, the 5w30 will be thicker than the 5w20. This should help protect the valve train as well as many other components in higher temperatures.

Thank you,
Brendon

Thank you, now I have learned so much, I won’t forget in the future.
So, I found the filter and ring for only 10 dollars at Hyundai /Kia - and with the purchased oil found a great jiffy lube avail to do the change for $41.00 using my products.
I should have recorded the techs reaction after pulling my car into the bay, he comes into the lobby all concerned asking “ how long has it been sounding like that.
He told me normally he couldn’t accept the liability to change the oil and was surprised I made it there. He was willing to give it a try once he was assured, I was aware of how bad the engine was- he didn’t try to sell anything extra, even though I could have used wipers, because he said I’d be lucky if the car didn’t shut off leaving.
He did show me the clogged air filter and said that “may” help so I changed it for $29.95 as well since I was trying what I could.
He said it took 4 quarts so I have some oil left over- when the previous mechanic opened the oil cover, he noted the container didn’t look oily enough, and sometimes a plugged filter or bad pump can be why, but he didn’t find that.

This Jiffy guy noted something when I ask about oil additives, about possible oil leak around a valve, but I can’t be sure he said that IS a finding or if it’s happening.

The Jiffy guy did say however an oil change wasn’t going to help the sound my car was making (I have a video/audio clip in original post) that he’d be willing to do it, and also said who knows, maybe after I circulate the oil into the engine, but maybe he was being nice, not sure.

I know it’s going to be near the end, but it’s just not possible without being able to work at least a few more months , and being so desperate because all things hinge on the ability to finance life, you will try very hard to have some hope and be willing to reach and not give up when it’s maybe past the point of hope .

It’s because also hard to accept complete engine failure so suddenly, got in to leave work and it sounded the way it now does, and next day, July 4th is when it kept dying each time I tried to slow down too fast, like at a red light, I’ve not been able to find the problem since, and lost 6 weeks work, spending several hundred in taxi/Uber during that time, while it was with the mechanic that really couldn’t diagnose or repair either, so I’m trying to be as wise as I can , here out, and your advice has been straightforward and intuitive as well and education I’ll keep going forward.
From here out, I’m going to learn all I can engine wise, just so I’m not so lost if/when I need to act quickly and make major repairs.
Thanks, you so much, anything Else you can think of I’ll be more than happy to check into!

Hello SANTEFE2009,

So, Jiffy Lube isn't really known for their expertise, and we will leave at it at that.

If your vehicle is a 2009 Hyundai Sante Fe 3.3L, it takes 5.49 quarts. of oil. You said he said it only took 4 Quarts?

I have added the Recommended Fluids Chart courtesy of Hyundai Motor Corporation.

If it doesn't have the right amount of oil in it, it will definitely make noise.

I never got the sound byte/video you said you sent over of the ticking noise. Are you able to resend it for me?

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello SANTEFE2009,

If it is a 2.7 it takes 4.75 quarts. If he only used 4 quarts and it's a 2.7L you are still too low.

I have added a chart for the 2.7L for you as well.

Thank you,
Brendon

Think my previous reply is missing, let me re-add a vid clip again now.

Think my previous reply is missing - let me re-add a vid clip again now

Hello SANTEFE2009,

I got a very short version of about 2 seconds and it cuts out. Not sure why.

Try again if you can.

I apologize for the inconvenience.

Thank you,
Brendon

For whatever reason the video upload is glitchy. It took a long time to render, and I noticed the video clip was super short, so I made a whole other reply with the full-size video upload. I feel like it failed altogether, since the compressed too so long and only resulted in 1.5 second of 30 second clip, let me try one more time to use the feature that has you “take a photo or video” rather than select from file, maybe that will auto fit it the video file to upload better. one moment.

Re-uploaded.

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Alright that is a much different sound than what I had imagined. That's quite the knock. That sounds like something in the bottom end of the motor, crankshaft or maybe piston related. Not sure though.

Could you send me a video of the engine running with the hood open and move around the engine bay?

This will help me try to identify where it is coming from.

Unfortunately, the battery replacement might have erased any codes, or it might not have been long enough to set them.

Did the Tech at Jiffy Lube look at the codes? If so any new ones?

I'm going to keep listening to the video and look at a few things.

Also is this the 3.3L or the 2.7L?

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello SANTEFE2009,

A knock doesn't necessarily mean its internal to the engine or engine damage. So, some quick questions as I try to gather as much information as I can:

Have you had any timing chain/belt replaced?

Any other maintenance done? Spark plugs? Like Serpentine belt or pulley or tensioner?

Do you know why the battery died? Are you still having a battery light?

Any overheating?

What grade of fuel are you using?

Anything else you can think of at all?

Thank you,
Brendon

So , I first noticed what did sound more like what I guessed MAY be a timing chain clicking /ticking right after having brake work done this spring- during the brake install the shop had ask me if I wanted to replace the “no 3 coil pack “ - I had noticed a serious lack of power at acceleration and loss of power uphill, w increased fuel usage- and due to that and the increase of fuel cost, I had always used the least expensive fuel-
Back to the ticking sound, it only happened when I very first cranked the car, once it had ran a couple min, it disappeared altogether, so I really didn’t think there was an issue at all, and thought maybe the shop just left a part wrapper on something that was tapping onto a fan or something.
It wasn’t until the July 3 afternoon that I got in from work and the car sounded that rough and just wasn’t the clicking ticking but the knock you hear now - along with it stalled out the next day and didn’t want to start back really - that’s when I put it in the shop -
The shop didn’t really seem to know what to do with it, really they said to just find another car, butI was desperate for them to at the very least look into it- I had seen many other Hyundai vehicles that had serious knock and sound that were able to be resolved to some point - and I just wasn’t In a position to even begin to think about replacing engine or car yet-

I really don’t know what they did, but when I got there to pick the car up - about 3.5 weeks later, the battery was dead completely- to the point it never could rebuild - so I was left to have to replace it just to try to see if I could salvage the engine at all-
Since I replaced the battery last week, the car has at least not ever stalled again, it has not had an issue restarting - I’m not sure what happened to that battery but the car came back worse off than it went in the shop if that’s possible- I don’t know , it’s discouraging to have lost so much time but I was at their mercy , and hopeful .

Since the new battery, I had a brief time that there were NO dash lights , no engine light or anything- I am not sure when or why the air bag light came on- or what that’s about -
Since I drove the car Friday, I had to take it to work and home, the engine light came on - that was a 20 min trip each way, and I wasn’t happy about doing it- but an Uber/Lyft /taxi is about 50.00 -nearly the amount I’d make at work myself

Trying to think of what else, so when I had been brainstorming on what to try, I did add Lucas oil treatment- this was prior to getting it to the shop -

The fuel I put In today I did buy premium but I’ll be honest, I prob would not budget for that on an ongoing basis-

I did add a fuel additive this spring once - don’t think that’s any issue ( or help )

One thing with the stall I had wondered is if the steering /ignition had an issue, bc I can sometimes remove the keys but the car registers the keys are in the ignition bc it won’t allow me to lock doors and the key in chime is ringing- I usually reinsert key , Turn to right , back off and remove key again and I’m good to go- but even if I have an issue there - doubt that goes to the engine -

I had thought it may be crank shaft position - and /or a sensor - there were 5 things I listed after combing the internet- that may explain the sound, and still be possibly fixable -

There may be more relative info I can give you- but these are the things recent and most relative I can think of -

I have considered that the engine could have been tampered with, but seems more likely that the age and mileage would explain issue, it was just so sudden and I would have thought some warning would have lead up- since I have to be so careful with taking care of it - I don’t even like drivers to get too close to me on the road -

Thank you for your attention , I really do appreciate this more than you could imagine and I will send a clip of the engine as soon as the thunder eases off

Good morning, SANTEFE2009,

Thank you for all the information.

Can you tell me if it is a 3.3 or 2.7?

If you are not sure just give me the eighth digit of the VIN:
2.7L should be D
3.3L should be E

If there is a different Letter or number for the eighth digit let me know.

If it is easier, you may send your entire VIN. I will make sure it gets erased from the thread.

Some of these motors had a defect from the factory. There was a lawsuit and Kia/ Hyundai have to replace the motor for free for the Theta II 2.0L and 2.4L GDI. Here are some more details:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10178174-0001.pdf


Also, with the hood open and the engine running, listen to the engine and listen to where the sound is the loudest. Left, right, front, back?

Please take a video while you do this for me if you could.
1st) Move side to side to side slowly
2nd) Then front to back
3rd) Then in an x-pattern, so left rear corner to right front corner then right rear corner to left front.

The sound might be coming from the rear passenger side of the engine compartment.

I need you to be my ears so we can try to identify where the noise is coming from.

Also does it get any better when the engine is warm.

Sounds like a timing issue that might have just gotten worse and worse that has now caused mechanical damage internally. But let's not jump to conclusions just yet.

If you could get that information for me, I would really appreciate it. Plus, it will help me a lot so I can help you the best I can.

Thank you,
Brendon

Vin photo.

Under hood - x pattern - engine noise location diagnostic video clip.

I did bring in the owners manual so I can quickly refer to , or look up an paticular s-
That recall info was interesting, as I had noted reading the stalling issue other owners had- I have had this off and on as well-
Once thought was loose battery, but it happens when the engine isn’t doing well- and it most likely happens as you are slowing down , decelerating, or haven’t warmed up well and go into gear too rapidly, if and when it occurs , so for me, 9 times out of 10 was at a highway red light - so a sudden slow from 65 to 75 mph to stop - but it’s not been an ongoing issue, so that two years ago, I thought I fixed it when I installed new battery and connections -
It’s happened two or three times last year when I noticed it losing power and getting horrible fuel economy - and the light came on that related back to emissions and I wondered if I had a converter problem ( or tampering bc we have had many converters stolen for the metal I the area )
But then the notorious stall presented again on July 4 , recently, the morning after I noticed it sounded so bad when I got in to leave work- but this July 4 was really hot, and true to form I was on a major highway, w 75 mph sp limit and not many red lights so the one I came to, you go from full speed to sudden slow it it catches you - and I stalled , this time it didn’t want to start back, didn’t want to jump off w the power pack 600 I keep in the vehicle - and had to be jumped by a passenger that helped, but took quite some time -

That night coming home , the same light caught me and I stalled, no one out so I had to rely on my power pack to jump start but it took 10 minutes and I practically ran each stop sign near home just to make sure I didn’t stall, and turning into my parking lot, at home , it stalled and would not restart -

Now, since I have added the Lucus, have had it looked at, and since had to add a whole new battery, there hasn’t been a single stall yet - and the way it’s running is smoother and more stable- even if the noise is still there , for example, your question as to does it get better when warm, I feel it gets more stable , for example, leaving the auto repair that couldn’t diagnose it, I had to rev up the engine at each red light to keep going, I had to ride the brake and gas at same time to try to keep from stalling , and sometimes before the new battery last week, it just would stall , at a stop sign-
Now I have driven it all the way to work, to pick up my daughter after work, stop for pet food, and home with no stall- we have been able to take for the oil change and pick up the oil filter at dealership and home - no stall, and it’s stable at a red light, I don’t need to actively work at keeping the engine running at each red light, stop sign or turn, it’s going to stay running without me in the driver seat if need be and it’s not running hot , smoking , nor oil light coming on - and sometimes even at idle it feel very smooth and normal, if it wasn’t for the audible clunk clunk , you would not feel the issue- it’s smooth feeling and not jerky, so yes, I def feel like it smooths out after it’s warmed up -

Ps on the oil amount - I checked it from cold and rechecked after running awhile and it was just over the Fmark- feels like most of the oil from the 5qt container was used - out of the 5 qt and 1qt I gave them at jiffy, so the most likely nearly used the full 5 quarts but I will keep an eye on it - IF it’s short, I will have the option to add an oil additive - IF that’s even anything to help- I know I had read good things on Moly but didn’t find it to use when I used Lucas

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Thank you very much for the great video.

After listening to it, it seems unfortunately it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the serpentine belt or any accessories. It sounds to me like you have some internal damage. The engine is going to need to be opened up and inspected unfortunately.

It most likely was originally a timing issue but may have ended up getting worse and worse causing internal damage.

It is possible the bearings on the crankshaft are worn and causing it to slam when the cylinder fires and pushes the piston down making the knocking noise. This would also cause low oil pressure and keep making things worse.

You may be looking at replacing the motor with a used one as your best option. Any work done to the motor is time consuming and can get expensive fast.

Looks like you have the 2.7L in that so I don't know if it will be covered by the warranty through Hyundai, but I would try them first and have them give you a quote. This way you will have some kind of warranty for the work. I have seen certain jobs get what is called "Goodwill Warranty" through manufacturers before, even if it didn't meet a specific criteria for warranty coverage.

I did look around in my area for this engine and they are around $750-$1200 used, I am in New York.

This site will help you find one cheap:
https://www.car-part.com/

So, then you will need to pay labor. That depends on the shop but like I said, start at the dealership and see if they will Goodwill Warranty it or if they can give you a quote on replacing it.

Unfortunately, I think this is your next best step.

I apologize, I wish there was more I could do for you but with the noise being that loud and seems to be coming more from the passenger side of the engine, it is going to need to be disassembled.

Thank you,
Brendon

Thank you, it’s not great news but I can at least be sure you have looked at every possible angle and then some, you have been right on top of the likely issues and solutions. I may see how to approach the dealership even if it’s maybe a different Hyundai dealership than the one I was in to get the filter. I got the distinct feeling that they were only able to put effort into possible new car/lease sales, and you could see a whole different world going on in the back service dept. where the purchases had already been made for the most part. No matter what, it may be a great learning opportunity as well, I’m not sure when is the last drive in the car too, so it makes being out and about, going to work and picking up anyone. really a next level Mind bender. I do wonder how long it’s going to last that I’ll be able to move around in it and I will also maybe have to compare finding a used car perhaps from the owner, possibly for close to the same price as an engine and install. Unless like you say, I was able to find a situation like a goodwill warranty and, but I would just have to see on that, I’m not holding my breath for sure. I appreciate your time and effort to at least try though - you have been super thorough and knowledgeable- I see these all the time that get under 100k and I’m doing well into 230 or 250,000 miles so that’s not bad ! Best to you going forward !

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Some dealerships are not great unfortunately. The thing that is good about them though is these mostly only work on that one brand. Now you have a technician who has seen this hundreds of times and knows Hyundais very well.

But like you said they are mostly worried about selling vehicles. I was hoping a dealer might be able to find a cheap cause for you because of their experience plus see if they can get it done under warranty.

Usually, vehicles with issues like yours will head to the more experienced techs too.

But you right a lot of these issues start at around 70,000 on these engines so the fact you made it to over 250,000 is something to be happy about.

Thank you very much for the compliment, I really appreciate it. If you need anything else just reply back.

I am here to help anyway I can.

Thank you,
Brendon

https://youtube.com/shorts/6eDgUUslD04?feature=share

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Is this what you found on your vehicle?

This is the tensioner for the timing chain. This could be your issue. However, the entire front of the motor needs to come apart. It may have caused other damage at this point as well.

Are you thinking this is what is going on?

Thank you,
Brendon

Yes, I am sure. the sound was that spinning only for the longest, but progressed to now it’s the spinning sound and the rough idle and knock, I’m positive.

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Okay. I thought to myself that this tensioner might have been at fault. However, without taking it apart it is hard to be sure.

By then you are already into the engine work for hundreds of dollars for labor to diagnose it. Got to go through the wheel well on the passenger side and remove the motor mount and everything off the front of the motor. Then the timing cover can come off. Then you will need most of the timing chain components and if there has been any other damage done then that will have to be addressed also. It can spiral from "oh yeah we can fix that cheap for you" to "well we found other issues, so it's going to cost more money".

I believe we determined the noise was coming from that area from what we could hear.

Weighing the cost of fixing an engine with over 250,000 miles vs getting a used lower mileage engine installed. It will probably be a lot cheaper to put a used motor in it with a warranty. The older the motor gets the more issues it could potentially have.

I would find a good mechanic in your area and get a quote on both, fixing this engine or replacing it. Then weigh your options and decide what is best for you.

Do you want to put potentially thousands into an old motor and have more issues later or get one with around 100,000 miles with some sort of warranty?

For instance, my truck had 228,000 on the motor and it had an issue where it needed new heads. Went to do heads decided to replace worn lifters, pushrods, timing chain and a lot of other things. By the end I had put over 2 grand in parts into it. Went to replace the camshaft and found all the bearings in the motor were bad. Oil pressure was fine so no indication there was an issue until I had it apart. Then I was left with the choice of now having to remove the motor and strip it down and send it to the machine shop. Then I would also need more parts.

At 228,000 miles I should have planned to rebuild the motor but thought I could get away fixing it for cheap and ended up costing myself a lot more money.

Thats when I decided I should have just got a used motor a skipped all this because I needed a vehicle and at the time, I worked 45 mins away.

I bought a used motor for around $600, and some gaskets plugs and a few other things. Got a motor with only 130,000 miles on it with a 90-day warranty instead. Up and running in 2 days.

In the end swapping the motor cost me about a grand vs trying to fix everything which I ended up losing thousands in parts. That's with me doing the work. No labor included.

I don't want that to happen to you. So, keep in mind that fixing an older motor may not go as smoothly as it should and end up costing you more money.

That should have had the timing chain done around 100k-130k miles I believe, so that has been driving with a loose/worn timing chain and components for close to 150,000 miles.

Also, the noise may be that tensioner but that just means it is the loudest not necessarily the only problem.

Just my opinion from my own experience and seeing customers get into the same situation.

So, like I said, get a quote for both and weigh your options.

Hope this helps.

Thank you,
Brendon

Yes, you are 1000% correct in everything you are saying, and I cannot agree with you more. Thanks for explaining in detail too the breakdown of getting to the issue, that always helps. since the vehicle is older, the body itself isn’t perfect anymore, and the quote I had first heard on the engine replacement being 2500-3000 plus labor, I had abandoned that thought before giving it any real consideration. since then I have put it back in the “think tank” but mostly so by way of the idea you had of checking with Hyundai, and the possible repair they may do, being there are recalls on the years close to mine. but in reality, business is about the bottom line. I wouldn’t place my bets there either. now, with the used engine cost you mention, and if I can find a mechanic around willing to maybe take it on, I will definitely look into possibly replacing the engine - even with a decent 100,000 or so, I know I have driven mine for 5 years no problems and it had over 100,000 when I bought it, so, if that’s any indication of potential, then I’d say that’s a deal, right? Now that I think of it, I bought mine from a friend that her family-owned auto repair and sold cars, they had probably known the engine was good and/or replaced any issues with it. I may start there even though I’m in a new part of the state and not in touch with the friend that I got the car from. it’s a starting place unless I could find something else as cheap as an engine that is, like you having to drive to work puts you in a place to have to do something! Thanks so much!!!

Hello SANTEFE2009,

So that price for the motor replacement isn't too bad depending on if it had a warranty and the mileage on it. Says it should take 16 hrs. to replace the motor as a complete assembly. At say $120/hr. you would be at about 2 grand for labor. These motors from the ones i have been finding are around $800-$1400 approximately. I'm in New York so my prices will be different.

For the timing chain my information says labor is about 4 hrs. but that doesn't include getting to it so probably closer to 6hrs. Parts for a timing chain are around closer to $1000 or more. So be probably around $2500-$3000 parts and labor. give or take. As long as everything goes smoothly.

So unfortunately, not that different but this is me estimating in a completely different state, so could be more or less depending on your location.

Maybe the prior owners did take care of it and the timing chain will go smoothly. It should be fine but there are always special cases.

I would google Mechanics near me and see if you can find a couple of shops and do some research on them like checking customer reviews. You can tell if a place is good just by the way it looks. But with better techs come higher labor rates.

I would also contact Hyundai and tell them what is going on. They can set you up an appointment at a dealer and they will be watching and checking in to make sure you are taken care of. Sometimes they will even "Goodwill" warranty it.

Here is there number:
800-633-5151

Here is their site:
https://owners.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/contact-us.html

In the end these shops need the work too just as much as you need it done. So, it may not seem like it, but they will bargain with you to get the work.

You can also try something like Car Shield, it's a vehicle warranty or coverage protection for costly repairs. But they don't require an initial inspection so you might have to wait a few months then take it to the shop after the waiting period. Usually, 30 days or 1000 miles.

Here is their site:
https://www.carshield.com

Here is another one:
https://www.protectmycar.com

I would look into one of these and see if you can do something with that or like I said call Hyundai or visit their website. Along with searching the web for mechanics near you.

Unfortunately, these things are very expensive, and I wish I had better options for you.

I hope this information helps.

Thank you,
Brendon

Wow, thank you so much! I’m glad to have the info because I get in my head about how to approach a situation, even like the Hyundai dealership. I play it all out and go back and forth in my mind a simple number to call and ask a question and state and issue is so straightforward, something an overthinker like me needs. Have you had any experience personally with the car warranty company? I wonder how they can manage to protect repairs on cars that truly age, but, if they are a good company, they get all the business because you know no one will talk to them if the call to advertise, lol.

Can you look at this car? They are 100 miles away, actually a state away, but I ran across when looking for engine replacement- over text they are offering to accept less and say they could possibly deliver.

Because you “may” have access to vehicle data, you may not, I don’t know, never hurts to ask. I am sending the VIN listed under this car, one concern I have is that online you never know who you are talking to, they may have a legitimate listing , but it’s listed under their website and the may could secure a deposit and disappear if that makes sense. I am talking by text,’ so it’s not a robot , so I would just need to make sure this is an actual for sale car, they have , and I’m not positive how to do that 100 miles away - I’m posting the VIN in the attachment- just looking - who knows , it may be a really good deal.

Hello SANTEFE2009,

No problem, I am happy to help. I haven't delt with these companies personally but when I worked in the parts department, I used to have to discount all my prices for them so they would pay the claim. Thought about getting one for my Nissan but decided I would rather fix it myself. I don't like other people touching my vehicles lol. Comes with the territory of being a mechanic my whole life, I guess lol. I overthink things constantly myself, so I understand.

If you want to send me a link, I can take a look for you, but it sounds a little fishy to me. Sounds almost like they can't wait to get rid of it. I would be very cautious. If it sounds like a good deal, it more than likely isn't. Too many people out there willing to cheat people for their own benefit and don't care who they hurt. Terrible really.

But if you want to send me a link, I will be happy to take a look for you.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Yes, send over the VIN or ad to me and I will check it out for you. Don't give them yours or any other personal information or send them any money. Sounds fishy to me. I would never buy a car without test driving it personally.

Thank you,
Brendon

Yes, not being able to test drive an 09 200k out of state vehicle- thank you - it may not be a huge deal to everyone but it’s everything to me - so much could go wrong - and so, also, what makes me nervous is they have mentioned a “clear title “ not all by itself a huge deal, because I suppose with cheap cars , not all have a clean title , or maybe it’s a salvage title, but the title issue would come into play in this way - they lost the car for 2700 and I know that’s discounted by Kelly , but I offered 1900 - they came back with a counter to take that as a down payment, and payments on the rest - even though they aren’t a buy here pay here- they stated that if they got a good feeling on a person, and really, they only would be risking what they had in it, which was less than I offered, they felt moved to go with it, if I was first to it as well- I’m assuming it really has to be there, because they don’t know if I’m going to show up In 10 minutes, unless they have a cover for that - supposedly, it’s his friends car- I just wish I didn’t have to have the title not in my name, that’s what it sounds like - until the balance is paid- but , I would not sign over a car that wasn’t paid for either.

Hello SANTEFE2009,

Yes, weird they don't know you but are fine extending credit as long as you gave them a down payment. Sounds like a scam. When you finance a car, the title won't be in your name until it is paid off but they don't sound like they are a finance company so a third party would have to be involved somewhere.

"They have a good feeling" sounds really odd. People don't generally do favors for anyone. If you are going to get something I would buy something from a reputable dealer with a contract and a warranty.

When I bought my Nissan, it was brand new, and I only gave them $1,000 down. Brand new, no issues ever with it. Still paying on it though lol. But at least I can get in and just drive it. Came with a warranty and all maintenance free for 36k miles. Hyundai and Kia now have 100,000-mile warranties.

I wouldn't buy anything without physically going somewhere.

You can try Carvana maybe. See what they will give you for a trade in and get something newer.

Here is their site:
https://www.carvana.com

Thank you,
Brendon