Engine stalls

hi, Did you figure out the problem?
I have a 2002 Crown Vic with exactly the same symptoms...I have no idea what could be wrong with it. Any advice would be appretiated.
Thanks!

Hi,

Actually, I never received any kind of reply from this site, come to think of it. Anyway, the problem went away a couple of days after I posted the issue here, and I haven't had any problem with it since then! So, I'm not sure what to tell you, other than to wish you "good luck" in your quest to figure it out!

No promises...read this

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2005-ford-escape-rough-idle-at-low-rpm

The Medic

I have the same exact problem with my 2009 crown victoria I followed this guide and fixed the problem.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle


I love this site

My engine stalls periodically mostly after I start it for the 1st start up of the day. Periodically it runs normal. I carefully check and cleaned the mass air flow sensor per instruction and check the wires in the air mass sensor to ensure its not damaged and replaced the air filter… after doing so the engine seemed to run and perform great. Next morning it started and idled fine. The next day at 1st start up the engine continues to stall. I did notice black smoke from the exhaust after starting it again from a stall. Other days it seems to run fine. Is it possibly the mass air flow sensor going bad?
Thanks for your time,
Ron

Check fuel pressure and do a leak down test, you might have a leaking injector, I sent a PDF via email.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Merlin thank you for the prompt response. Fuel checked ok. Any other advice?
Ron

Did they check for leak down? Injector sticking open may give this problem, or the pressure regulator. Black smoke shows too much fuel. Check the ECT, This acts as a choke on SEFI vehicles.

yes sir leak down turned out ok.

The IAC(idle air control) on Fords can do this, who ever checked the fuel system may be able to do an IAC count, or try removing it and see if any carbon is holding the pintle open, and clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Is your check engine light on periodically?

Have had no problems till now ,my car had been sitting all day I had made it about 5 miles down the road from my house, when my car just stalls out the service light flashes,and coolent gauge going all the way up, I was able to get it pulled over and try to crank it and it cranks just fine idles normal, start to go and it does it again does it all the way back home

No sir the engine light has not come on. I did tap on the throttle body and the engine came to life (normal). Sounds like something was stuck in the body and became unstuck when I tap on it. So far so good... I still dont have faith in what happened... guess I will get some cleaner for the throttle body next.

If the check engine light is flashing, you need to have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free and the code will direct us to the problem.

The IAC I mentioned is bolted to the throttle body with 2 small screws, It controls...you guessed it, idle speed! And can make the car hard to start, shake at idle, and stall when idling or coasting...

The check engine lightlight does not stay on it just flashes so its not pulling any codes

sounds like my problem... where is it located on the engine?

When they flash, it usually indicates a cylinder misfire. When it flashes for you, do you feel a miss in the engine?

Looks something like this. It is located to the rear center of the throttle body.

Not really it just dies

There could be many issues that can cause it to stall. Did you try to scan the computer? if so and there are no codes, I guess we need to start with checking fuel pump pressure.

have a big skip in the engine, cuts out real bad. has done this off and on since new. before would cut out when cold ,after a few miles would smooth out. The ford dealers could never find the problem. is worse now. cuts out bad. had a tune up, cleaned the fuel injectors. nothing helps. Do you have any answers for me????

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

no codes in the fuel pressure is good

Hi, I have a stalling problem it was running rough when I bought it took it too get an oil change after that would not start at all just cranked. so I started with a idle air control it fired up and got it home, but kept stalling at lights, but on the highway drove great. then it was still hard to start have to have the pedal to the floor so I checked the fuel pressure it was fine. I then did the mass air flow sensor still was running rough, did the plugs too. kept stalling right when I stick it in gear. so then I just did the EGR valve today and it fired right up first try with out the pedal, idle beautiful it the gas no hesitation. put it in gear still ran great it ran about five minutes maybe little longer then shut right off and it was hard to start and had to put the peddle to the floor and just stalled. I am puzzled.

Hello,

This sounds like the crankshaft sensor needs to be replaced, here is guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

And some diagrams of what its like on your car (below).

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

I have an 2001 Ford Crown Victoria with 56,000 miles. The car was previously owned by salesman at the ford dealership so I do know that the car was taken very good care of and maintained on a regular basis as I have the printout of maintenance done.

The problem, which doesn't happen all the time, is that the car starts on the first crank but immediatly stalls unless the accelerator is kept engaged. I have noticed that while the engine is trying to stall out that the volts gauge is irratic, going up and down with all accessories in the car turned off but the gauge is fine when car runs right and battery and alternator are both fine.

Usually after 5 minutes or so of keeping the car at a higher idle it will stay running on its own, but then when the car is turned off after reaching a destination and the car is restarted the problem again occurs.

Once I get the car to stay running it does not stall while sitting at a red light or being parked even though the idle seems lower than normal. There was one time when this happened and when I returned home from errands I left the car running while I unloaded groceries because I was going to open the hood and see if I could find the problem when all of a sudden I heard the normal idle kick in. The engine runs smooth and fine other than this irratating problem that I can't seem to figure out.

I am on a fixed income so that makes it difficult to run out and buy new parts just to find out that wasn't the problem in the first place.

Any help you could give concerning this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Lynn

Sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve may be going out on you. Fairly comon for Fords to haev this problem. Also try cleaning out the throttle bore with carb cleaner and a rag, these 2 things should restore the idle quality

Jack,

Thank you very much for the quick reply, and yes you are correct about it being the IAC.

When I went to use the car today the same problem occurred on starting. When I finally got it to a point where it would stay running without my foot on the pedal I opened the hood. I have always been a bit of a backyard mechanic with the older cars, so decided to tap on a few things with the end of the screwdriver. Well as soon as I tapped on one thing the idle picked right up to normal and the car ran great afterwards even after a few stops and starting the engine again.

I wasn't able to find any diagrams online anywhere so had no idea what it was that i tapped on that made the engine run so good, so I stopped at the local advanced auto parts store and had them come out and look to verify for me that it was the IAC. As I stated earlier I'm on a very limited income and I can't afford to buy the wrong part..lol As it is I will have to wait until my next disability check arrives in July to get the part.

Now, from what I could see of the IAC it looks fairly easy to replace which I am hoping I will be able to do myself with a few ordinary tools as I called the dealership today and they quoted $350 to replace it and that would take half my check for the month.

Is there anything special I need to know or do before I attempt to replace the IAC myself?

Thanks

Lynn

Nothing special for this job, just two small bolts.I do suggest using a Motorcraft part even though it may cost a ittle more, you will save most of that on labor by doing it yourself

The mileage flip on it a wile ago now.

I can drive for about 4 miles then it was start to studded some. It can then stall out or sounds like the engine can speed way up and the oil light will come on for a little. Seems like if I just keep the gas peddle in the same place not move it any at all it will not stall out. If it does stall out I can't start it. It seems like it's not getting any gas. I can wait about 4 minutes then it will start again! So I guess it's something heating up.

I replace the fuel filer and the fuel pump on it. Did not help. I don't want to spend more $ on it guessing what's wrong. I thought some one else would have the same problem but did not find it here so just asked.

What I would recomend is get a can of mass air flow cleaner and clean the mass air flow unit. Let me know if that helps or not.

I cleaned the "mass air flow unit" with contact cleaner I have. It's easy to do. Don't have to take off a lot of things to get to it.

Tested the car. After just over 2 miles not pushing on the gas peddle any it engine speed up for about 2 sec. Then all OK.

Other times when it did that the check oil light would come up for a little.

I talked to some people and they said it could be the catalytic converter that my cost $1000! But can get a generic one for about $200 but only last about 2 to 3 years.

But I like to know what's wrong with it and not be wrong. Seems like some one else this would of happen to and they know what it was.

Thank you.

-Raymond Day

Do you have or can you borrow a digital multi meter? I would like to have you test the TPS (throttle possition sensor). Let me know and we will go from there.

i was driving on the beltway doing 70-75mph and the car just stalled on me.turned the key off after piulling over tried to crank her she started and shut right off.i repeated the process several times and finally gave up and called for a tow.tried again nothing.3days went pass tried again this time pressing on the gas as it was stalling out,she started let it run for 10minutes turned her off then started it caught first try and seems to be running fine. the tank is full i got a fuel pressure test done and it was 35 -40 shop said thats normal.is it safe to drive or what should i repair

scan for codes first fp seems to be ok from you question

no check engine light on let it run today for 30 minutes idling then drove for 20