no engine starter operation?

Hi,

I've been having possibly the same issue for over a year.

If I plug my truck in for more than an hour, then try to remote start, it runs OK for a few seconds, then sputters until it eventually stalls. This triggers an error that turns on the Check Engine light. once this is on, your remote start won't work until it is cleared, either by a code reader or disconnecting your battery.

Maybe your light came on for a different reason. I believe mine is happening due to the coolant heater being too close to a sensor in the rad or something like that. Your light may have just come on because you stopped and started too quickly? Or was your truck plugged in? If the starter is bad this guide can help find it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

SH

What do you mean by "plugging your truck in"?

Sorry, Plugging in the Engine Coolant heater/Block heater. I'm guessing your not from a cold climate? I'm in Canada so it's helps with the cold if it's working.

I disconnected and reconnected the battery and it worked. Thanks a lot!!!

I live in Alaska, and I plug my car in every day in order to help it start in the morning. If I don't plug my car in, sometimes it won't start at all. I frequently need to drive to locations where there is no electricity. Is there anything I can do to my vehicle to help it start, instead of leaving it on for 8 hours?

Test the fuel pressure in the morning. This engine will not start cold with under 55 PSI.

No electricity-been there before I'll take the battery with me if there's nobody there with a vehicle to jump it and keep it in a room temperature-Battery blanket, heated oil and transmission dipstick, block heater are useless w/o electricity there.So much of mother nature.

I was under the impression the engine was cranking sufficiently and not starting. I probably shouldn't have assumed that. If it's a cranking issue you have, then Rasmataz is right. Resolve the battery issue.

The last frontier is one tough country to be in-When the hawk goes down it will freeze the battery and explode if not noticed when engine warming up BTDT-the catch here is a higher cold cranking amps battery and kept warmed-So much of being in the land of the midnite sun.Running it 8hrs causes wear and tear-might consider 1500watts portable generator in place and 2 gals of fuel

I replaced the original positive wiring and upgraded to 2 gauge. After putting everything back together, I attempted to start the truck but got a no crank. I checked the power to the starter and the wire from the battery is hot. The wire from the relay to the solenoid has no power. When I turn the ignition I still don't have power to that wire. However, if I bypass the relay the starter cranks.

Good morning,

Why did you change to 2 gauge?

Did you try the key relearn for the security system?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

It is possible the key forgot the password for the security.

Roy

I have an inverter in the truck and two batteries. It has been in the truck for a few years, which has been hard on the 145 amp alternator. So I upgraded to a 250 amp. I read that it was best to upgrade wiring as well. I haven't tried the key relearn but will try that now.

Roy,

I did the security reset, but unfortunately it didn't fix the issue.

Thanks for the input.
Philip

Okay, Is the check engine light on?

Do you have a code reader that can read codes? If it is security. it should have a fault code stored.

Does the security or theft light stay on for more than 10 seconds with the key in the on position?

Roy

Roy,

The check engine light isn't on. But the "service airbag" is on the display. I have a code reader and will run it now.

Roy,

I ran a check with the code reader and there aren't any DTC's stored in the computer. Also, the security light only stays on for about 4 seconds.

Okay, do you have a test light or voltmeter to do checks on the starting system? I attached 2 diagrams for the starting system and we need to do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

Purchased this truck at auction. It had been wrecked. Still driveable. Drove it home.Replaced the seat belts, seats, steering column, steering wheel and airbag clock spring. Now it wont start.

Yes. I have both.

Replacing the steering column means the anti-theft parts in the column are different now. That will prevent it from starting. You will need a dealer level scan tool and a security password from a dealer to reset the system to use the new parts. Or use a locksmith who does mobile work, they are usually cheaper than the dealer.

Okay, with the key in the start position, check the start fuse under the hood in the fuse block for power in the start position.

Roy

Roy,

Will that be the large relay 3114 listed as STRTR? If so, I pulled it out and it has power on 87 even when the key is off.

Roy,
I found the 40 amp start fuse.

Okay, I asked if you had power at that crank fuse with the key in the start position and the relay installed.

Roy

Roy,
Sorry for misunderstanding. yes I do. But after further inspection of the wire that connects to the solenoid I have found two locations where the wire is exposed (insulation missing). Could that be enough to break the connection?

have 08 silverado it was involed in an accident i checked the coils starter security system, i had scanner connected to it and it read code p0, i cant find any body that knows what it means, and also on the key start position there is no power to the starter fuse.

mike1002,

Im new to this site. I don't know if a donation is required to get feedback from these folks.
The info I can tell you about the code readers is simple. If you can't find it it may be a generic aftermarket code. Try to use an OBDII that gives you a descripion of the code.

Are you the one involved in the accident or did you buy it as a salvage? Either way, battery, fuse box, wiring, and electrical systems need to be at least looked at or electrically checked. Anything that new should work unless its visibly damaged.

Okay, if you have power there at the fuse, the next stop is the solenoid. Test for power to the purple wire while in start position.

Yes, it could if it is broken internally.

Roy

Roy,

Sorry for so much confusion. But no power to crank fuse.

Okay, remove the relay and you should have power at terminal 30 and in the start position, also check pin 85 for power as well.

Roy

I only have power on 87.

No, you should have power to 30, 87 goes directly to the solenoid.

Do you have power in the start position to 85?

Roy

Truck will not start checked all fuses and battery still wont start all it does is click once then cut off

What is litre size of engine? Have you checked for voltage, anywhere? Usually the purple wire at the starter solenoid goes hot with the key in the crank position. Any testing at the starter, make sure the tranny is in park or neutral and the parking brake is set.

Has a 5.3 flex fuel v8. Voltage on dash reads just below the 14 after you turn the key it makes a noice as if battery is dead I tried jumping off with another vehicle even bought a new battery. Engjne light is on so my remote start doesnt work going to try tapping starter with hammer to see if its stuck inplace

I was going to post starter wiring diagram,but, my database shows 4--- 5.3L engines. If you want the diagram, I need your vin.

I changed the starter and it runs now thanks for the help

Glad you got it going your way.

took my 2008 chevy silverado and kids sled riding stayed out for 3 hours when i returned my truck would not start. I call my wife to bring jumper cables she brought them but nothing no clicking, wasn't turning over the lights and raido worked

If its not a security issue could be one of the following a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay,park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good.