Starts but won't stay running?

have battery checked for condition including load test then try resetting security system. then have it checked for a parasitic draw.

How do I reset security system?

look online or in manual if you have one

Car started to die out. We jumped it and tried to rev the gas. The rpm won't go past 1. Very low power. I forget the code that comes on but what it means is to take it to the dealer. After turning off car it dies out again.

Is the vehicle still under warranty? Also, I need to know what the code was they found. If it is emission related, it has a minimum of 5 years 50K miles.

the car stalls and sometimes the revs drop down to 300 then go up to 1200 then rest at normal 800.when driving you feel the car jerk like holding back and the managment light flickers, these problems are all intermitent and have been gradually getting worse. i have changed spark plugs,air mass flow sensor,all four oxygen /fuel sensors.ihave cleaned throttle body and idle control valve. any advice would be much appreciated. someone has told me to change the idle control valve,would this help with the holding back? thanks

Lets stat by getting the codes this guide will help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hey Grays. I figured out what the problem was. I have a 2003 rav 4 and it starts but shuts off after 20 seconds. I l have replaced everything you've mentioned too and more. I had to get a used PCM to fix it.

WHEN ENGINE IS NORMAL RUNNING TEMPERATURE ENGINE SHUTS OF BY ITSELF

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and monitor the pressure it will show up if its the fuel pump-If not start checking the ignition system components one by one-

Hi, my daughter has a Toyota Rav4 that when she is driving on the highway her RPM's rev up and the car dies with hardly enough time to get off the highway. The Toyota dealer put a new computer in for $1000.00 and then she drove it for a week and the it happened again. They are saying she needs a new transmission for $4000.00 but we want a second opinion.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure first. then have a trans guy take a look at it. you might check your trans fluid level to make sure it is fiull and not brown or black. if it's brown or black then just have trans rebuilt.

at stoplights when the car remains idle for awhile, I really have to lean on the accelerator to get the car to go, and after "revving" for a few seconds the car will lurch forward. After I've got the car going sometimes it'll do the same thing while I am trying to accelerate in the middle of driving, when the car is not idle. And sometimes my car trip will go by smoothly without any stalling. I was just wondering if you could narrow down the possibilities of what could be wrong before I take it in to a mechanic. Thanks!

Is the check engine light coming on? Have you checked for engine vacuum leaks as well as the idle air control valve? As far as when you are driving, can you explain what is happening?

start up every time then stalls in about 5 seconds

Clean out the idle air control valve and see what happens if it continues-check the fuel pressure to rule the fuel filter and fuel pump

My 99 toyota Rav4, with 110,000 miles, and v4 engine, has been shaking when I start the car. It feels like a little tremble. When I try to shift from park to drive it will sometimes stall. I also notice my gas mileage is decreasing. What could my problem be? thanks

You may have a misfiring cylinder which could be caused by bad spark plug wire, plug, or intake air leak. Is the check engine light glowing? Reading the codes may move this from a general answer to a more specific one.

I bought a used 99 Rav4 a few months ago and it ran fine for about a month or 6 weeks then the engine started cutting out when going up a hill or when you quickly accelerate. So I replaced the fuel filter and put some gas treatment in the tank because the car had been sitting for a few months before I bought it I figure it had dirt in the fuel. This didn't seem to help at all so I put in new plugs and wires. Still didn't help much so I had a friend check for any codes in the computer and it shows none. I've been told maybe it could be the coil pak or the fuel pump but I hate to keep buying parts on a maybe do you have any ideas?
Thanks

Check the fuel pressure -this will determine if there's a problem with the pressure regulator and fuel pump-

Also inspect and test the throttle position/mass airflow sensors and check for exhaust restriction

Hey thanks for your help. Low fuel pressure was the problem a new fuel pump took care of the problem.
Thanks Again!

Okay. So, had an oil leak. Was leaking around the oil pump, so I replaced the seals and o-rings and no oil leak. So, I go to do a test drive, and I can't get this thing out of my garage! It will usually turn over, but when I accellerate or rev it up past 2000 RPM, it dies on me like it's out of gas. There is a full tank. I thought maybe it was the crank sensor, but when I replaced it, it didn't fix the problem. So I thought it was the throttle position sensor. Replaced that, no change. My MT2500 isn't showing any codes. I did look at what the TPS was doing, and it showed at an idle between 12.6 and when I pushed it, no more than 70. That's why I thought it was the TPS. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. Right n ow, I have it up on two jack stands. I can start it, and then it sputters out like it's running out of gas, or sometimes it will idle for quite a while, but as soon as I gas it, it sputters out and dies. The fuel pump seems to be cycling as I can turn it on and off with my mt2500. Help! This woman needs her car back, and I"m at my wits end here.

Okay, so I tried to keep it running with ether, and that didn't work either, so I don't know if it's a fuel system problem, or something else wrong with the engine. Help!

Check the TPS voltage-closed should be 0.3-1.0 volts and WOT at 3.2-4.9volts. Also check the fuel pressure

I replaced the TPS already? And would the fuel pressure matter if I crimped it off and was trying to keep it going with just ether? Wouldn't that have made a difference if fuel pressure was the problem, meaning... wouldn't I have been able to keep it running off the ether if fuel pressure was the problem? What should the map sensor show with the engine off? With the engine off, it's reading 93 VPA???

Check the actual fuel pressure with and without vacuum to the regulator-crimping the return line should double the normal pressure- MAP sensor voltage should be 4.5-5.5 volts not in specs check wiring- Turn ignition on an applyvacuum to the MAP see below

So I buy this 500 dollar fuel pressure gauge system from Snap On... break the adapter it says to use within 5 minutes, get a replacement only to find out that the book says to use the wrong adapter. Use the right adapter, and the stupid gauge doesn't show anything, but I have pressure coming to the filter. *twitchtwitch* If I disconnect the map sensor, I can get it to start and idle, but if I reconnect the map sensor, it shuts off. I don't quite see how I can check the voltage on the map sensor the way it is. Suggestions? It looks like if i disconnect it to check with the OHM meter, it doesn't make sense. Help?

My daughter's car has been completely dying while she's going down the highway. This only happens once a week or so and then it takes about 20 minutes for her to restart it.

She took it to one local mechanic and he couldn't figure out what was wrong because it wouldn't die on him. Then she took it to the Toyota dealer and they said it was the idle air control valve. They said it was fixed, but 2 days after she picked it up from Toyota it did it again.

She will be driving on the highway and then loses all power. Then it will crank 20-30 minutes later and then the problem will come up another 4 days to a week later.

Does anyone know what this is? I called Toyota today, but since it's the weekend they are not opened. I am 500 miles away from my 18 year old daughter and I don't know how to handle this. Does Toyota get to keep my money since this wasn't the problem?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

The MAP sensor operates exactly like the vacuum advance unit on the conventional distributor. Check the supply and output voltage to it- Supply voltage 4.5-5.5 volts Output voltage varies with vacuuum-check with a vacuum pump. See above chart.

I would’ve suspected crank position sensor
and or fuel pump
but an idle air valve no


need manual CHECK IT @
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm

Replaced the map sensor... didn't fix it. :( Could it be the cam sensor?

Now, I can keep it running as long as I keep applying gas, but it won't stay running???

During replacement of TPS, did you calibrate it ?

Recheck the idle air control valve/PCV and EGR valves-

My daughter's '97 Rav4 will stall when it is put in drive. I also noticed that it's hard to push the car in neutral. In fact, it's almost impossible to push it now.

I had the transmission worked on about a year ago. It wasn't shifting correctly.

There are no trouble code set.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

John

What??? How do you calibrate a throttle position sensor?? Is it not self-calibrating?

There is probably a problem with either the shift linkage or sometimes a cable is used in the shifter and that might need replacement. The shifter itself could be binding up.
My best advice is to take it to a transmission shop and not a regular repair facility. Automatic tranmission, especially in a RAV4, are difficult to work on and take special experience and tools to work on them. So, take the extra time to take it to a transmission spoecialist for repair.

Okay, the ICV is working and clean. I thought the ECM calibrates the TPS. The EGR has been un... oh for Crying out loud. The stupid thing is now sending an error code saying it's the front ignition coil.

I swear...I'm going to shoot this stupid car... *scream* Why the heck is it FINALLY sending up an error code now???

*twitchtwitchscream* Ok... *breathe* Ignition coil will be here at 7:30 in the morning... Please pray for me guys...

-- Elizabeth --

This answer was dead on. The boot on the shifter cable had come loose and kept the cable from moving correctly. A new cable fixed the problem.
Thanks

FCOL, it's still doing the same thing. Do you think it might be a wiring issue?