Door locks seem to lose power when either pushing interior or keypad lock/unlock buttons

Check the central locking control unit ground connections.

where do u think that would be. roughly

At lower center of dash, on instrument panle block.

so ur sayign remove dash and check back there? behind temperature controls, or behind steering wheel area?

Near fuse block.

i tried looking around without removing to much. cant really see alot. but i did try messing with the keypad and interior lock/unlock button. 1) i have to hit unlock twice on keypad to unlock all doors, it seems that after unlocking and locking multiple times i can tell that as soon as i hit unlock the first time of round 3-4 of unlocking door that the drivers door lock only half opens. then pressing a second time all the other doors only half unlock. 2) with the interior i presses lock/unlock and after about 3-4 all simultaneously inly unlock halfway. occasionally i have to press unlock multiple times to get it to register i hit it. i can only compare it to a low battery where the lights dim, they have minimal power and arent functioning fully.

You are correct, symptoms indicates a low battery similarity apart from a poor ground.

The central locking system is linked to the body control module and repeated locking/unlocking can cause resistance buildup resulting in poor actuator operations.

will it give out completely or will it maintain the weakening. cause i dont really wanna rip out my lower console and then still not fix it and have to take it to a shop anyways. if it will maintain and not completely stop then i leave it be and get it to a shop at a later time. but if it going to fail shortly i might as well just take to a shop cause i been scouring the internet for a picture or guide for fixing it/ understanding what i looking for.

It will definitely get worse. This is a rare symptom and most likely you are not going to get any additional information. If you have a scan tool it might help you to track down the cause.

Scan tool? As in a code reader for the port under the steering wheel? And would this be covered by the Suzuki warranty?

Yes, but a code reader don't work here. You need a scan tool that can communicate the Body Control Module, the brain of the centeral locking system, to diagnose if there are any trouble codes or malfunctions.

You need to check with the dealer to find out if it is under warranty.

Awesome. Thank you much.

You're welcome.

Just replace the door actuator is the same that the GMC equanax there is one in each door the coast about $65.00 each I had to replace driver and back back door in mine very simple if you can open the door panel will be happy to give you the part # later

I had the same problem with my Suzuki XL7 2008. After 2 years of owning it the locks seemed to work sometimes. For several years now I have had to manually lock and unlock all doors as none of them work. It even effected the back hatch which I spent hundreds to replace. I feel this was something the manufacturer was negligent in and I was told by my mechanic it is a common problem in Suzukis and that the mechanisms were rusting out. For this reason I decided not to follow through with the costly repair because I would have to pay a couple grand every few years to replace all the locks. I wonder how many of these cars are experiencing the same thing. I have also had a problem while driving and the air bags went off with no explanation. I was petrified and all they could offer was that this sometimes happens if the air pressure changes outside and we were getting ready to have a storm that day. I hate having to crawl through my car and manually unlock doors so people can get in. The only door I can open is the driver door by using the key in the lock, like in the old days. Anyone have any ideas?