Engine stalls while driving

Ok so what all did you do? Just exhaust? Did you keep the O2 sensors? Did you have to unplug them and maybe forgot to plug them back in? Is the check engine light on? Get back to me with some answers and we will see what we can do ok.

the sensors where never removed ?we change the pipe after the sensors?so the sensors does not have a problem ?the check engine light is not on?i thought maybe its the mufflers problem so i removed it and try again but the problem is still there thanks for helping me

sorry about the question marks i typed it wrong

Ok so you opened up the exhaust and now it is bigger so now it breaths differently. If I remember correctly this has a mass air flow meter. So if you would get some mass air flow cleaner and clean it, its cheap and a place to start. Did you do any air intake mods or any other mods? All the info I can get will let me better help you ok. Your welcome anytime

yes the car intake now is running on a racing filter from knn
whats the mass air flow meter?

I included a pic below to help. If this gets dirty then it won't read the correct air coming into the intake and will cause running issues. Throttle response and idle and hesitation problems even. Let me know if there is improvement and we will go from there.

o i get it is it the sensor on the air intake?when we convert it we also convert the sensor too,so now even its on racing filter mod the sensor is still on it

how can i clean this properly?
changing the exhaust has no problem?i think the factory exhaust pipe is 2-1/2 inches,,is it ok to use 2 inches?

when running the car has alot of power,the only problem is the poor idle,when i stop ,or when i shift to neutral,the car would just die.and i have to restart it again

That sensor can possible cause this that why I am asking to clean it. The exhaust should not have much effect on the problem you are having as long as the O2 sensors are in the correct spots and where not moved or modified. All you need to do is pull it out spray the wires with the cleaner and put it back. Let me know how it goes and we will take it from there ok.

ok thanks ill try it soon as sun raise ,because its 12am here now,thanks i will email you tom!

hi
i cleaned the maf sensor today using electrical control cleaner
because i cant find the maf cleaner fluid?i even change the spark plug
to ngk iridium spark plug?but the problems still there then i try to start it again with out the knn air filter just for a while about 1 minute it gone worse
now the engine light is on the traction control light is on and the cruise light is always blinking?what should i do?

See if your local parts store does a free scan and scan it get the codes and get back to me with them and I will look them up and we will go from there ok.

hi this morning when i start the car and driving ?when you step on the gas hardly the rpm wont go up?it goes up very slowly when neutral it up very hard when driving?i went to a local store they told me that the throttle body should be cleaned after cleaning the idle problem is fixed but the engine lights are still on they hooked it up to there reading code device?the device can not read the code they used another one and still the same result ?they unhook the battery for a long time to reset and connect the device again ?the code still cannot be read or erased?the local store is the specialist of subaru cars they told me now that the problem of the car is the wirings now im waiting for the technitian to come?the dying problem is fixed but the other problem aquire ?the rpm wont go up normaly it go up very slowly when just reving?if driving it goes up more slowly and hardly?and the code cannot be read by the device?what should i do now?

Check fuse 13 and fuse 4. Fuse 13 is in the underhood fuse box and is 7.5. Fuse 4 is in the fuse and relay box and is a 10 amp. These fuses go the to diagnostic connector and if either are blown the diagnostic connector won't read or may not power up.

Hi my name is Travis and i am having a problem diagnosing a stall in my subaru and so is the dealership! When i accelerate from a dead stop and it switches gears to 2nd and gets between 20-30 mph. , there is a short stall or bogg you can see the rpms stop and decrease instead of increasing like im letting my foot off the gas. Then it does the same thing in 3rd gear between 60-75 mph you can actually see the rpms decrease again for a longer time. Its as if the engine or tranny is straining. I asumed maybe fuel delivery error or electronic throttle body , maybe transmission , who knows because i sure dont! NOTE this happens in the same mph and rpm range everytime. If anyone knows what this is please let me know ASAP thanks and hopefully whatever it is its covered under warranty

Have the dealer check the throttle by wire system. There are three basic components in electronic throttle control that may be causing that problem. * A position sensor on the accelerator pedal (actually there are 2 or 3 position sensors for redundancy). * An electronically-controlled throttle body with a small electric motor to open/close the throttle (most use reduction gears to rotate the throttle shaft). * A control module (the PCM or a separate ETC module that talks to the PCM via the CAN-bus or serial data link)

I replaced the spark plugs and knock sensor and it ran good for a week. Now it won't even make it up a hill. Keeps stalling.

have the fuel pressure checked. it may be too low.

is the check engine light on??

Roy

yes check engine light goes on shortly after i get gas.

do you know the code??

Roy

Does that mean my fuel pump needs to be replaced?

not till you have it checked and confirmed.

Roy

We just put a new clutch in and I was letting it sit at idle, after approx. 10 minutes the car stopped running, and hasn't ran since, what do I do first?

Codes are P0446 and P0442

check fuses under hood fuse box and then check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. scan for codes as well. then finally look for pinched wires around where the work was done.

those are evap codes. they will not prevent your car from starting.

Roy

That's why I am stumped. When it first started acting up I got the code reading for misfiring 3rd cylinder so we replaced the spark plugs and the knock sensor. Was running good for a week then was driving along and it sputtered a little and stalled. I got it started again, revved it up and was able to drive it onto the road where I live. There is a hill on the road and it just kept stalling every time I hit the gas. I got towed to the top of the hill and was able to coast the rest of the way into the driveway. That's why I'm thinking possibly ignition coil.

Check for torn air boot after mass air flow. Or tubes under air cleaner housing.

Believe it or not, it was a loose battery connection. When thye replaced the battery, it was installed incorrectly and never set down all the way. Battery is now on securely and haven't had a problem since.
Thanks to everyone for thier help!!!

my 2000 Subaru impreza outback 2.5l charged battery fully out of car and still car won't start won't even crank. Why? I was driving the car and I heard a belt squeal and the lights got dim then all of a sudden the car bucks and stopped abruptly. Had it towed home the wrecker driver tried to jump the battery and it wouldn't crank. Next morning tried to jump start it nothing but battery drained a bit. Checked fuses and breakers and circuits and checked for loose ground. Charged battery out of car for 8 hours turned the key just a brief click and nothing. Could it be starter? Just bought car from mechanic who said nothing wrong w/it, it was Mechanics Lien. Noticed belt for power steering and alternator were loose had neighbor farmer/mechanic tighten it up.

Yes, sounds like a bad starter, solenoid or both. The not turning over part. The dying part is probably a bad alternator.

Manually crank the engine to check if it has seized.
It could be a bad bearing along the beltings or something inside th engine that had given way.

Thank you all, I've decided to have engine rebuilt. When trying to manually crank
The engine was in fact seized. Found out by thinking back on my military training.
Gotta love those Subaru.

Thanks for letting us know. Sorry to hear about the engine. Tell your friends about us. we're trying to grow.


Closing thread.

i have a '97 impreza 2.2. the car starts but dies after a short amount of time. after the car dies it will fire right back up and run for another 15sec or so until it dies again. there is alot of carbon coming from the exhaust. i have tried pulling the plugs and they seem like they are being fouled out because they are very wet. they are also coated in a thick layer of carbon. i tried new plugs but nothing changed. all the plugs looked the same so it leads me to thing it isnt an injector. there is also a strong fuel smell coming from the car. any ideas?

Check the fuel pressure could be too excessive being caused by the regulator or clogged return line.

i took the returnline off and started the car. it pumped out quite a bit of fuel and still did the same thing.

Confirm the fuel pressure by using a fuel pressure gauge designed for your fuel system.

You need to duplicate the problem -When it dies out immediately check what's missing Fuel or Spark? then get back.

Vehicle: 1997 Subaru Impreza
2.2L Engine
100,000 Miles
Automatic Transmission

Can you tell me what might cause the engine to cut out at highway speeds or die when at a stop light only after it has been running for approx 15 min?

Symtoms: Car starts fine and runs fine for approx 15 minutes. After 15 Min at highway speeds the engine cuts out or misses but then it goes back to normal and keeps going. It does this off and on when driving. When at a stop sign the engine will die but it can then be restarted. No errors lights are lit on the dashboard. Driver said issues started right after filling tank.

Troubleshooting: Nothing obvious under the hood like a vacuum leak or faulty wires. Checked fuel pressure and it was in range. Replaced the fuel filter. Plugs look good. Air filter is clean.

Thoughts?