Engine hot A/C off light turned on

2008 PONTIAC TORRENT
75,000 MILES • 6 CYL • AWD • AUTOMATIC
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MRMRSSWEETP
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My engine hot A/C off came on and my temperature gauge on the dash fell down on cold instead of up on hot. Why? I checked all fluids and they were fine, did not smell hot. The remote start kicked off after running for about two minutes and then after driving about a mile, the check engine light came on with the "engine hot A/C off" message. Temperature gauge never moved from cold and when I got to work (about 30 miles) the engine fan continued to run after I shut the vehicle off. Could it need a new thermostat? I also checked fluids and they are fine.
Jan 26, 2011 at 10:40 PM
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STRAILER
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Hello,

This sounds like one of two problem either you have a stuck thermostat or the engine coolant temperature sensor is not working right. Here are two guides that should help you get the problem fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat


Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
Jan 29, 2018 at 1:05 PM
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ASHTINS89
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having similar issue and was directed to this thread from my question. Which should you replace first?
Dec 2, 2019 at 8:15 AM
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STRAILER
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Can you feel the bottom radiator hose to see if it is cold? if so I would do the thermostat first. These guides should help with diagrams below to show you how on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
Dec 2, 2019 at 10:36 AM
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DONALDDINKINS
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My car overheated last night when I turn the car on it sound like water running from the under the dash driver side. my fans seems to be not turning on it overheated when I was sitting in traffic.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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CARADIODOC
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You need to list which engine you have. Please use punctuation so I read what you intended for me to read, otherwise that huge sentence can be read multiple ways.

Your dandy observation the fans aren't turning on is first clue we need. If that is the cause of the overheating, that won't occur at higher speeds when natural air flow is sufficient. Start by checking Fan 1 fuse and Fan 2 fuse, both 30-amp, and the "EMISO 2 fuse, a 15-amp, in the under-hood fuse box.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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TIM13813
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my 2007 torrent info center said while driving engine hot / ac off temp gauge shows cold and fan stays running can u help
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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It sounds like you may have a coolant leak or possibly a blown head gasket. If the engine is overheating it will shut the AC down to try and protect the engine. Also it could be the engine coolant temperature sensor that the readings are off so check that first

Here is a guide on overheating and the causes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Here is a guide to find coolant leaks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

This will have you test for a blown head gasket.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Coolant sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

If everything checks out okay it will probably be the ECT(engine coolant temperature sensor) if it's out of range the cooling will either run all the time, or not at all. May or may not set a codes.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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TIM13813
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Thanks for the fast response. I thinks its the coolant sensor can you show me where it is?
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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Picture shows the engine coolant temperature sensor location it is #1 will be on drivers side on the rear of the head under the master cylinder. BTW I forgot to include this in the first response.

Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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CANDACE MESSER
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My car's message board shows engine hot/AC off. Then it goes to engine hot/power reduced. A light just blinks and then it reduces power. After driving it home with the light blinking and reducing power, it was not actually hot. Using a heat sensor, the hose coming out of the engine registers only 193 degrees at the highest. The fan is running. Correct engine coolant used and it is not losing any coolant. The cluster sometimes goes haywire. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. Is it the heating sensors or is the cluster?
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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TIM13813
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Okay I run the tests you suggested (great guides BTW) and the engine came up with a blown head gasket (bummer) so I will have the work done and keep the car becasue this is the first problem I have had with it. It will cost me about $900.00 at the shop.

Thanks for your help 2CARPROS! I love you guys
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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Check the ground connections at both sides of the dash panel, also check the connection at the engine coolant temperature sensor. Use a scan tool to check what the ECT is actually reporting as the engine temperature.
If those check out it is possible you have a failing cluster. A good scan tool that can talk on the class 2 bus would show if this is the problem as errors on the network usually show up.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Cheers
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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BRUCESCHIEBELBEIN
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Having the same problem with my 2007 TOrrent. In addition to the engine light coming on...the A/C off...the temp gauge does not move...but in very cold weather the vehicle completely shuts down. I need to pull off the battery cable to re-set before I can start it again. It has happened a couple of times and only in really cold weather.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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We must get to the bottom of the over heating which is job 1. Check out this guide to help you find out what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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HEY8732WHATITDO
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Six cylinder all wheel drive automatic 45,000 miles.

While at the car wash I was parked with my car on and I started to notice the A/C was blowing hot at times then cold. hen I noticed that the temperature gauge had shot up almost to the red. I quickly left the car wash and headed for a gas station to check fluids, but while I was driving down the road, the air was cold and the temperature went back down. At the stop light, it started to do the same thing. all the fluids were full in the car. Any ideas?
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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ROCO
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Hi hey8732whatitdo, my car is overheating as well, did you ever find the problem? in my case both of the fans are working properly, I have replaced the thermostat and water pump, but the problem keeps coming back again. the fluids levels are okay.
On other forums I have read about a gasket issue that makes the coolant to leak inside the cylinder chamber, others says about a bad coolant sensor, others says about bad headers. It has 80,000 miles on it.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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KIM LINDER
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I have this same problem but with a car I have not bought yet, I will be paying for it tomorrow and I wanted to see if anyone else has this same problem. this 2007 Torrent 2 wd has the Engine Hot/ AC OFF, the engine temperature gauge goes all the way up and then all the way down when starting the car as it should but then does not move after, It looks like the engine is not warming up. The fans both come on, there is no oil in the antifreeze, there is no antifreeze in the oil , the 3.4 L LNJ V6 engine runs smooth and I felt no loss of power.I see no leaks under the car or in the engine compartment, the coolant is full.

after driving 10 minutes City , stop and go, from zero to 45 mph, and then 5 Miles on the Highway and 65.MPH, Temp Outside 45 degrees, Night time conditions, returned to the house , engine hot ac off still on and temp GAUGE on zero, popped the hood without shutting down and the engine is not over heated, Hoses return and to the radiator are warm but not too hot to touch and hold. the antifreeze fill is on a satellite tank, the fluid does not circulate there so I cannot check visually circulation, there is no bubbles nor disturbance or Oil in it though.

so now i am checking to see how this can be fixed and how it will effect my pocket book, $ wise. i want the gauge fixed even if this warning cannot be because my wife will be driving this car and she is NOT going to watch for signs or overheating manually of that I am sure.

any suggestions?

I also turned the A/C on while i was choking stuff after returning while it was idling and the a/c blows cold.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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ROCO
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I am coming back just to leave reference on my issue, it turns out that the issue was a broken head gasket, I will describe at the end a simple test to perform, to find out if this is the root cause of your problem.

There are some references on the web that claim that the formulation of the OEM coolant was disintegrating the gaskets after some time, and this is why the manufacturer changed the coolant formulation for later models.

This problem is hard to diagnosis due the fact that everything seems to be normal on the vehicle, fluids are correct (when checked), the fans are working properly, but as others, I first tried to correct the problem by changing the thermostat, then the water pump, and finally look out after the broken head gasket issue, all this has to be done with a small mechanic shop as the dealership service area, came out the first time with the incorrect diagnosis of an intermittent fans failure , they wanted to change both fans and wire harnesses at a higher cost, and I decide to look out for myself, at the end it will cost me less than half of the dealer's quote for the intermittent fans failure , and this includes changing the thermostat and water pump on my first attempt to solve the problem, I am assuming right now that both (the thermostat and water pump) were working correctly, but cannot go back in time, anyway not been an expert on the matter has a price.

It is good to mention that despite my 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD has almost 80,000 miles, it has been quite reliable, no other problem at all since I bought it about five years ago.

As explained by the mechanic, the broken head gasket leads to overheating by some reasons, some are; it reduces the coolant level while been driving, generates air bubbles in the coolant system reducing its performance, and increases the friction at the combustion chamber. Even if you check the coolant/water level before driving, it will be consumed while driving, leading to the engine to overheat, and not the other way as I thought, that the coolant/water level got low because an overheated engine.

The problem will be in and out at the beginning or even later on as the crack on the gasket gets bigger, and for many factors as the driving conditions, outside temperature, etc. this is also why this issue its very hard to diagnosis. On my case it will appear when driving back home after work in a hot afternoon throughout the city downtown, with several traffic lights on my way, no been shown when driving directly back home from work using the highway, nor early in the morning/late night.

At least you have to change the head gasket, and coolant, but it is good to make an oil/filter change as well as it can be contaminated with coolant, also you might be forced to change -at an additional cost, the exhaust, intake and valve cover gaskets, as the mechanic can not commit to reuse the same ones, they can be broken when disassembling the engine. and it is strongly advised to change the exhaust, intake and valve cover gaskets as well while the engine it is torn apart, as you do not want to come back latter on with an oil leak. There is also a small chance, but still a possibility that the engine head has a crack, that in most cases can be repaired, or you must be forced to buy a brand new one. The worst case scenario is that you broke down the entire engine by running it too hot, for too long, on all this the labor cost is far more the most expensive portion.

One key indicator of a broken head gasket besides the overheating problem is that when starting the engine in the morning and after a long overnight rest to let it cool down enough, you will notice that the engine shakes more than usual, just like when a spark plug is faulting, this will go away after a few minutes when driving and in most cases it will not come back until next morning, the reason of this is that when the engine has cool enough it allows the coolant into the combustion chamber overnight and to stay there, once you start the engine first thing the next morning the engine will be shaking until the water/coolant is consumed inside the combustion chamber, then the engine will behave regular, if this is also happening to you, this is a simple test to diagnosis the broken head gasket issue:
Let the engine rest overnight to let it cool down enough, early next morning, remove the spark plugs and look out for any coolant/water residues on the spark plug tip, if not for sure, ask a friend to attempt to start the engine while you look for coolant/water residues splashing out of the open holes where the spark plugs were removed, if there is coolant/water residues, it will be very evident, even for a non-expert eye.

Also, others recommends to check your exhaust after you have ran for about five minutes and see if you smell burnt antifreeze, other recommend looking for white smoke coming from the exhaust, that is nothing else but water steam.
Since similar engines are shared across different GMC brands (i.e. Pontiac Torrent, Chevrolet Equinox, Pontiac Aztec, etc.) chances are that this will be the same root cause for an overheating engine issue on those other brands.

Good luck.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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One of three things comes to mid for me. First is a stuck or missing thermostat to the engine which will cause the engine to not warm up. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when checking the thermostat.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

The next thing is the engine coolant temperature sensor needs to be replaced becasue the sensor is not reading right it could be affecting the gauge and the computer warning system. Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when changing the sensor out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

The final test would be to check for w blown head gasket even though there is no coolant in the oil it could be still allowing exhaust gases to enter the cooling system.

Here is a test for that as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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CRAIG_A
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I just wanted to thank Roco for his follow-up.

We have a 2006 Pontiac Torrent. About three months ago, it began overheating at stop lights and in traffic. The heat would blow cold air and the temperature gauge would rise. After parking, the engine fan would remain on for a while, until the engine had cooled down.

The initial diagnosis was the thermostat. After that was replaced, it worked fine until yesterday. We were driving and the temperature gauge begin to rise again, and after pulling over we could smell burning coolant. The fan remained on, and slowly the coolant compartment began to drain.

I googled the symptoms and found this page, which seemed to be right-on. We took the vehicle in today and the mechanic independently identified it as a broken head gasket. Whether it failed because of the thermostat failure earlier, or it was always the head gasket, we're not sure.

He quoted us $1,100.00 to repair it.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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MOONHOLDERFIELD
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wow! i have the same story as above, i Googled it and found this site and i do not want to go through with the payments of the thermostat first then the fans and the wiring kits. but i will let you know my follow up. i have a Pontiac Torrent 2006 with 118,560 and i am having these problems and that quote gives me a good idea of what to bargain for. i want to say thanks and i will let you know how well it will go for me too.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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TOMZ99
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I also have a 2006 Pontiac Torrent and replace the head gasket and 53,000 miles had all the same symptoms it was a bad head gasket and now I have got a hundred and twelve thousand and the same thing happened. I guess I should have changed to head bolts.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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OKCOPIER
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The car begans to overheat when idling and the air conditioner is on. Only one fan comes on but when I began to move the gauge goes back to below normal where it usually is. What could be causing this to happen? There is plenty of antifreeze in the car. Are both fans supposed be coming on when the car is started or at what point does both fans come on?
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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RIVERMIKERAT
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Lack of sufficient airflow across the radiator. Check to see if the secondary fan has power. If so, replace the secondary fan. If not, check the relays, fuse, and wiring.

The main fan only comes on when the engine reaches a certain temperature. The secondary fan is switched on when the AC is switched on, regardless of engine temp.
Jan 13, 2020 at 7:23 PM (Merged)
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CAVELL
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3.4 headgaskets are my hobby. Done 4 jobs.just Got 07 torrent for my next project. BUT. Dash says overheat. Temp gauge is cold. Also tach reads 4K with motor off. Have dash warnings for abs, tcs stabilitrak, and tpms. Ect is 2200 ohms at 75f. I get 5vdc at sensor. Motor temp feels right using my expert heat sensing hand. Head gasket does not bother me. But why do I get overheat warning at first start? I checked codes. None.
Coolant level is fine. Zero overspray in engine compartment.
Bad cluster?
Jul 29, 2020 at 7:47 AM
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STRAILER
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It sounds like it could be, but lets get the codes first to see what comes up. this guide will help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.
Jul 29, 2020 at 5:42 PM
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CAVELL
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Had code p0118 ect and p0128. Cleared codes and all is well. Drove home and A/C shutoff again. Took out thermostat. It was stuck open. Replaced. It. Cleared codes and it has been behaving okay for 2 days now. A/C works. Gauge works. Went to drive thru. Temperature went up, fans came on. Temperature went down. But the 0118 concerns me.
Aug 3, 2020 at 6:56 AM
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STRAILER
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Yep, the P0118 is the OBD-II generic code that indicates the Engine Control Module (ECM) has seen the ECT sensor output go more than 4.91 V or less than -40°C (-40°F So I would replace the coolant sensor. here is a guide to help walk you through with diagrams below to show you how on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
Aug 3, 2020 at 11:00 AM
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CAVELL
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So, if I change sensor, which tests good now, and problem comes back, then you will say try something else?
Aug 5, 2020 at 9:00 AM
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STRAILER
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We have to start somewhere, 9 times out of 10 it will be the sensor.
Aug 8, 2020 at 11:41 AM