There is light smoke from hood are than five minutes later it shuts off?

Hi,

When you noticed the smoke, could you tell if it smelled like something electrical, something like oil burning, or did it have a sweet smell to it?

Also, what happens now when you try to start it? Additionally, have you scanned the computer for diagnostic trouble codes?

Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

If you haven't done this, I recommend it. If you don't have a scan tool, see if a local parts store will lend one to you.

Let me know. Also, if you could record it cranking and upload it for me to hear, that may help me.

Take care,

Joe

Thank you, Joe,

The smell definitely wasn’t sweet. I feel like it smelled like something was burning. I can get back to you ASAP with a video and do you have any recommendations for where a scan tool could be loaned out in California?

Thank you,

Jay

Here are some photos I took when it was about to be towed. Apologies if they are not the best quality, but I figured maybe it could help.

Hi Joe,
Here are some images of the car. Please let me know your thoughts.

Hi Jay,

As far as parts stores in CA, I'm not familiar. I'm in PA. Most parts stores here will scan the computer for you free of charge and there are some that will loan a scanner, but I believe it is different in CA.

I have a question. In the one video, the oil pan looks wet as you mentioned. Are any of the fluids low such as engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, or engine coolant?

Is the vehicle still turning off? I ask because something may have gotten wet when you had it washed.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe,

Hope all is well and I appreciate your continuous help in this matter.

I recently discovered there wasn’t any coolant in it. All other fluids are fine. Ughh I fear I may have messed up my engine now. I’ve filled it up with coolant now and turned it on for about 3 minutes. The engine light is still on.
I just purchased a OBD2 today. Will it be able to detect if I have serious engine damage and should I try to clear the code to see if it appears again?
Later today I am also going to check if I have a leak in the reservoir.


Look forward to hearing your expertise!

Jay

Also, I haven’t run the vehicle long enough to see if it turns off because I’ve been worried that I might do more damage.
I’ve ran it for max 3-5 minutes after putting coolant in.

Hi,

If it sounds okay after you refilled the coolant, the engine is likely fine. A scanner will help identify why the check engine light was on, so let me know what codes you have.

Make sure the coolant is full. This may sound funny, but make sure the heater is working. I have a feeling the coolant is leaking at some point and that is what we need to determine.

Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and then turn it off. Check under the hood to see if you can see any leaks.

Let me know.

Joe

Afternoon Joe,

Here’s the update I’ve gathered:
1. My heater usually doesn’t warm up till I drive it around for about 15+ minutes it’s been like that for awhile, so when I tested it today there was still cold air since I didn’t drive it around because I didn’t want to risk driving it around.

2. The car still vibrates a little…(I can fill it lightly when I touch the dash) not sure if this is just because it is an older car.

3. I ran the car for about 11-13minutes, no smoke occurred. I’ve attached a few images of the dash board that show the meter temp gauge (I think that’s what it is called) at around 3 minutes of being turned on and the second pic is at 13 minutes of the engine running.

4. I checked the coolant this morning and have discovered that it is below the minimum line. I just filled it up to the max line on June 12, 2024 around 7 pm.

5. I have ran the diagnostic and the codes that came back are:
P0117
Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor 1 Circuit Low
P0340
Camshaft Position Sensor "A"
Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor
P0365
Camshaft Position Sensor "B"
Circuit Bank 1
(Image attached)

6.
Slight smoke coming out of the car exhaust pipe in the back (at least I think that’s what it is called), but I think that was do to the weather being cold outside.

7. Are you able to tell me what the fluid container with the red cap (bottom left of the engine) is and if it looks Normal?

8. Next time I run it should I check the transmission fluid, if so, how do I go about that?

I’ve attached a video so you can hear how it looks and sounds too.

Thank you much!


Jay

Hi,

The engine appears to be running smoothly in the video. The temp gage appears normal as well.

When the engine temperature is in the normal range, check if the heater is working. That will tell me if there is enough coolant in the system or if there is a possible air block.

As far as the exhaust (Yes you are correct) if it was cool outside, it is common to see some steam coming out. Condensation builds up in the exhaust and burns off in the form of steam when you run the engine. That is perfectly normal.

Now, I'm not sure about the red cap you are referring to. I know there is a red cap on the power steering pump fluid reservoir. See pic below. That is one of your pics. Is that what you are referring to? If so, yes, it looks fine. You can check it to make sure the power steering fluid is full.

I just watched the first video you sent when it was being placed on the flat bed tow truck. If I had to guess, it looks like coolant is what I'm seeing. Do me a favor, keep an eye on the coolant level. Also, don't be afraid to drive it a short distance to see how it reacts. If you notice the temperature gauge going up too high, pull over and allow it to cool off.

If you are uncomfortable doing that (and I understand), I think we need to pressure test the cooling system to see if there is a leak and if it maintains pressure. It is really easy to do, but you will need a pressure tester. Most parts stores, such as Auto Zone, lend them to customers.

Here is a link that shows how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi Joe,

I haven’t been able to check the radiator pressure test yet because I’m waiting on a an adapter specific to my car that I need since the auto stores don’t have it.

In the mean time I drove my car for about 10 mins and the temperature gauge was normal until the end when I put the heater on and within minutes it was close to its highest level. The air never even got hot.

It looked wet closer to the back underneath, but I’m unsure.

Thank you,

Jay

Jay,

If you had no heat and it reached the highest temp, we have an air blockage or it is really low on coolant. As far as the leak you see, is it possible for you to take a couple pics and upload them for me to see the general area? It may help me point you in the right direction.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe,


Before I drove today I filled up the coolant mid levebeofr driving it for 10 mins. And then instant drop in coolant and car heat level sky rocketed. I parked it ad the area looks the same as the first pics when I got it towed, no visible leakage on the floor. Still just looks wet in that generalized area like the day I towed it.
It didn’t really look wet around the radiator itself though.
When I turned the temp to heat for the heater, but the vents just blew cold air.

Also,
Found what looked like rat poop on my battery…not sure if a rat has been at play with something in the engine too.

Going to do a the radiator pressure test on Monday when the part come in.

Are the fans you speak of the big fans in front of the radiator?

Thank you,

Jay

Hi,

Yes, to the fans. I'm referring to the ones at the radiator. Do me a favor. Since we have no heat and you said you filled the coolant and it dropped when you started it, we need to bleed the system.

When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and fill the coolant to the full line. Leave the cap off the system. Turn the heater on high and start the engine. Allow it to reach operating temperature and add coolant and it drops. By filling it like this, coolant will be able to flow through the heater core and help eliminate any air in the system.

Try that and let me know how things turn out for you. Remember, open the system with the engine cold and leave the cap off until the system remains full, and the heater is working. Once that happens, then you can replace the radiator cap.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe, should I still try to do the radiator pressure test first?

Hi,

It wouldn't be a bad idea to do it. When you pressurize the system, see if it will maintain the pressure, listen for any odd sounds, and watch for leaks. Since the engine will be cold when you do this, it's a lot easier and safer checking.

Let me know.

Joe

Hey Joe,

I wasn’t able to figure out how to do the pressurizer test and had a few other obligations since then. Thus, the car has not been used since then and now won’t start. If I towed it to a mechanic, do you think it would be an expensive repair? I am out of options either I will sell it as is or try to find a local mechanic to fix it.

Hi,

I understand. As far as a cost, that is a tough question to answer because we don't know what is causing a leak. Chances are it is something simple that shouldn't be too expensive.

As far as the no start now, I suspect the battery is weak. Is that correct?

Let me know.

Joe