Reverse not working?

Depends on where it's coming from. If it's in the rear differential and you have the limited slip option, there is an additive that's supposed to be used with the gear lube to prevent chatter and noise.

You may need to replace the transmission here is a video to help walk you through the steps on a similar car. The process is the same.

https://youtu.be/3vJAojsrfuU


You could have nothing more than a tight or worn universal joint but typically they will make noise going forward too.

Thank you for this post I had this problem and had to replace the transmission cost me $834.00 all fixed I love this site. Installed it myself using the video.

when i put the truck in drive or reverse,it locks up

Check differential, check brakes, check U-joints.

thanks so much,i will do that.

Let me know what you find. Can you tell me if there is a specific wheel that locks up? I need to know if the truck is 4wd too. Let me know. I may be able to better guide you.

I can't shift into reverse. The service shop at the Chrysler dealership says it is probably a broken synchroniser and estimates approximately $1500 for repairs. Is this a reasonable price or am I being overcharged? Also is there any factory warranty that covers this kind of problem?
Thank you.

Hi
Labor on repair is @$1000 and @$300 for gear assembly so $1500 not bad. As for warranty check owners manual and contact warranty Dept.
Can you get in REV engine off then start will it back up?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

Didn't try reverse with engine off. It's in the shop now.
The warranty is a standard 3 year 36,000 mile. The shop ran the VIN on their computer and it showed the warranty has expired on this truck.
Are you referring to the warranty department from Chrysler or my local dealer?
Some research showed a lifetime warranty on the drive train, but it looks like that didn't start until 08.


Thanks,
Ed

Apeal to Chrysler you may get some help. The milage is not that high

I've had the truck repaired and asked for the parts that were replaced. I have some photos of the parts and would like your opinion on whether this looks like normal wear. The brass bushing in the synchro ring looks ragged and the tooth in the middle of the photo on the mesh? ring is chipped. I'll send these to Chrysler also. Thanks.

i have a grinding sound when i shift into reverse i took the truck into the shop and they said that the sound was normal but i dont believe that. any help could be appreciated thanks!

[quote="Edneaz"][quote:4d18dfa299="Docfixit"]Apeal to Chrysler you may get some help. The milage is not that high[/quote:4d18dfa299]

Chrysler is going to refund $400 for the parts.

Thanks for your advice.

Have you got this problem fixed, and if so what was it? I am experiencing the same problem and the dealer told me the same answer...Its Normal! My truck is a 2008 Dakota SLT V8 with 13000 Still under warranty, but running out of time!

Great news sure looks like metal fatigue cause all coffin cuts appear fine so not operator error or lack of lubricant.

2002 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Automatic 120000 miles

my car will Not go in reverse. It will catch sometime and sometime it will not. I have no problem with the forward gears.

Hi there, This sounds like a sticky shift valve, you really need a trans specialist to check this one out for you.

Mark (mhpautos)

I bought a 2002 automatic Dodge Dakota from a friend and the reverse does not work. The transmission shifts fine and I can drive forward all day long, but I can't go in reverse. When I put the truck in reverse and step on the accelerator, the engine revs...but nothing.

you probably have eitehr a burnt clutch or bad seal or a bad roller clutch. take it to a trans shope and let tehm diagnose it. they can check for pressure, electrical codes, etc.

truck only has mis when at a complete stop in gear or in reverse, othher then that performance seems ok as long as moving

Hi:
when was the last tune up? Also, is the check engine light coming on?

Joe

it was fully tuned up about two years ago, the check engine light is on but has been on way before this started. also as far as the check engine light, being on, i took it to have code read, but they said couldnt get it so they told me it could be something simple like the gas cap not sealing good or something like that, made no sense to me but never really had any issures machanically from it being on.

The code needs to be read because there may be a problem that has taken time to notice. As far as the tune up being 2 years ago, check for arcing from the plug wires, cap and rotor condition... After market parts never seem to last as long as factory parts. Finally, the man who checked the computer mentioned about the gas cap. What he is refering to is an EVAP code that would indicate a leak in the fuel system (not gas but fumes). If there is a leak, it would set a code, and it could cause a vacuum leak which inturn could cause a rough idle. However, without knowing the code, that is nothing more than a guess. Did you take the truck to a mechanic to have the computer tested?

Joe

For the last several months I have experienced a very harsh shift into reverse when leaving my garage in the morning, that is when the vehicle is cold. I can mitigate its affect by holding the brake until I get full engagement. The problem seems to disappear when when normal operating temperature is achieved. The clunk is similar to the result you would get from a bad u-joint, but I have checked and they are all tight. I have never changed the fluid or filter, but am planning to soon.

Any ideas? Is it likely mechanical (valve, etc.), electrical (sensor) or vacuum related?

Thanks

Hi:

It could be a couple things. First, if you are sure the u joints are good, it could be play in the differential spiders. Also, if it is a 4X4, there could be play in the transfer case. If I had to guess, I would say the problem is in the differential.

Joe

I have a 2000 dodge dakota - 8 cyl, 318, automatic transmission. The trans stopped working - just stopped, while I was driving - no forward, no reverse. An old mechanic has looked at it and told me it is a mitsubishi tranny and there is an oil filter in there that has never been changed. He said I need a new (used) transmission. Okay, I have my doubts. I had NO problems prior to this - no hinting that the trans might go out. Any ideas?

[email protected]

Put it in neutral and try to push the truck. If you can't, it's still in park and the shifter linkage is disconnected.

Never heard of a Mitsubishi transmission in a Dakota. All I ever saw was the tough Chrysler A-904 with an overdrive unit attached.

caradiodoc

Thank you for the quick response.
The truck has been moved, so there is no problem with the linkage. Although the mechanic is recommended to me, he is about 70 (please don't laugh - I live in a VERY small town) and I don't think he has a computer to hook up to it. He told me he dropped the pan and there was an oil filter in there. Is that possible?

Yup, all automatics have filters. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the filter and fluid every 36,000 miles. I have an '88 Grand Caravan with 223,000 miles. I pull an enclosed trailer that's bigger than the van, and the filter has been changed once in its life! "Do as I say, not as I do".

There really isn't much in the transmission that can cause a total loss of any functions unless the fluid has leaked out. One thing that should be checked is to be sure the four bolts haven't fallen out from the torque converter. They connect the engine to the transmission. It's not common for them to come loose, and in the rare event they do, they usually cause a lot of banging noises first. Still, it's something to not overlook.

caradiodoc

We are not communicating well. I understand the difference between a transmission fluid filter and an oil filter. The mechanic told me it was an OIL filter. THERE WAS NO PROBLEM OR NOISE before it just stopped.

Can you research this problem further..ask your buddies or something? I just don't think it is as complicated as this old mechanic says it is. Maybe I should just take it to a regular transmission place in the closest big town?

I had found a similar problem on another web site -

Message:
I have a 2000 dakota 3.9 2 wheel dr. with 130,000 miles and a history of many problems. The latest one is the tranny. Without any symptons it just stopped moving in any gear. No slipping no noise no roughness. HELP!!! Any suggestions on what it could be short of replacing the unit ( I'm Broke)

frankeboy,
When mine stopped shifting a new set of solenoids was all that required. Couple hundred, including ATF-4 top-off, at my trannie guy.

Any ideas along those lines? My mechanic said there were no solenoids in the transmission. Sometimes I think he is not even looking at my truck!

A lot of other people will read these replies, just like you did on that other web site. That's why I included the story about the torque converter bolts. I said usually they make noise first implying that was not the problem in your case, but that might benefit someone else.

Transmission fluid IS hydraulic oil and it must be filtered. It is common to call it the transmission fluid oil filter.

The transmissions that use a solenoid pack are in the front-wheel-drive cars and minivans starting with the 1989 models. In the event of a total electrical or computer failure, the solenoids are spring-loaded to allow use of park, reverse, neutral, and second gears. The computer will also shut the system down when it detects a problem, and again, you have use of those gears. Those computer-controlled transmissions were not used in the trucks in 2000. You still have a version of the really tough 904 or 727 that was used in the '60s through the '80s, with an overdrive assembly added on. The place to start is by testing the main line pressure. If it is 0 psi, there could be a problem with the front pump or filter. If there is pressure, there could be a problem in the valve body, (not likely since the problem occurred while it was already in gear and moving), or something broke in the torque converter. It WOULD make sense to take it to a transmission specialist. They will be familiar with the transmission and any problem they find, they've seen it before.

caradiodoc

Thank you...I apologize if I was too blunt - frustration is the reason, but not the excuse.

I am going to see about getting it towed to the nearest town with a reputable transmission place. If it turns out that dang transmission is a Mitsubishi...well, I guess we can all be hog-tied!

Me too. I only have a '99 service manual which should be the same, but my school was one of three that Chrysler used as remote training facilities so after leaving the dealership and the factory training, I got to sit in on their classes at school and at their update classes at our yearly state-called meetings. I never heard one word about Mitsubishi transmissions, but all that means is they didn't bring it up. You never know what variations there are out there.

Ask the specialist if your transmission is a version of the smaller 904 or the really beefy 727 with an overdrive added. That will clinch it. They can tell by looking at the pan. On the 904 it is square with one side corner partially shaved off. The 727 is basically square too but with an extra rounded bump on the right front corner.

If they confirm it's some kind of Mitsubishi unit, ask if it is computer-controlled or hydraulically-controlled like older transmissions. That would be cause to want to dig into a newer service manual to learn about it.

Hope they find something simple.

caradiodoc