Engine revs?

So it sounds more like you just hear a noise while driving down the road maybe from somewhere then the engine?Also haqve you checked the wheel bearing yet?

My father in-law just had a water pump replaced by a mechanic on his van. Now there are issues(#1) with the engine operating temperature taking an unusual amount of time getting to normal. Also it is fluctuating (between norm and slightly below) while driving.(#2)Now seemingly connected to issue above, with heat on and blower working.(all fan speeds are working properly and all position selections are also) there is heated air only when engine is at higher (driving type) rpms, or in park revved to same. when rpm's are slowed only cool air is blown. Steps taken so far by him and myself are: changed radiator cap, thermostat/gasket changed. so far no change in above issues. Thank you in advance for any helpful suggestions that may be offered. Thanks again.

Cooling system needs the air bleed out of system, purged of air. Check on this web site under cooling systems.

There might be a bleeder valve on that cooling system,

Hi, JOHNNY G.JR and thank you for your swift response. While awaiting an answer I found a few more posts with similar issues and they seem to agree with you. Once again I am very thankful for your help. I hope the holidays find you and yours full of happiness and joy. Thank you.

Please let us know happens so it will help others and tell a friend.

Best, Ken

My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan has approx. 93,500 miles on it. recently in the last 2 months the rpms are fluctuating only when I have the ac on.
You can feel it to the point where you go forward in your seat when the rpms go down. used to be freeway only when it happen. now its doing it in the city. needle just bobs back and forth unless i accelerate or put the break on. traveling this weekend and im afraid to get on road.
Please... Any advice??? Someone said an idle compensator???

First, there is what is called an idle air control motor (IAC). Its purpose is to keep a smooth idle (only) and prevent an engine stall when stopped by allowing air to enter the throttle body when the throttle plate closes (foot off the gas). What you are dealing with sounds more like the throttle position sensor (TPS). However, it should have turned the check engine light on. Has that happened? Please keep in mind, it "should" have turned the light on, but it doesn't always happen.

You may want to have that checked. NOTE: If your problem happens at idle (the engine RPM's go up and down) the IAC is most likely the problem.

One final thing, make sure there are no vacuum leaks.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

I own a 2001 dodge caravan. recently i started it and drove to the store and noticed that the rpms was running at 5000 and i was going 50 mph...so i figured the trasmission was staying in 1st gear i was told that there was a rod that needed lubed that runs into the trasmission. I dont no if thats correct or where there rod is located or what the rob is called...
I hope you can help me.. and the van dont have overdrive

[quote:0db9686ff6="Macman18"]Transmission problem
2001 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 110000 miles

I own a 2001 dodge caravan. recently i started it and drove to the store and noticed that the rpms was running at 5000 and i was going 50 mph...so i figured the trasmission was staying in 1st gear i was told that there was a rod that needed lubed that runs into the trasmission. I dont no if thats correct or where there rod is located or what the rob is called...
I hope you can help me.. and the van dont have overdrive[/quote:0db9686ff6]

Hello,

Most likely it is stuck in 2nd gear and in what is called Limp Mode.

Is your engine light on? If so go by your local auto zone and have them pull codes. Post here in forum.

ini problem, oily overflow from rediator, small bubbles in water. replaced head gasket. Drained fluid into a ijug- it was slippery like oily and black. turns out the thermostat was bad and only opened 10%. The jug was setting for a few days, now it is pink with no slug or oil in it. It was a bear changing the head & all belts. Now the engine starts but will not rev up correctly. checked all connectors.

What would be the symtons if the timing belt is off by 1 tooth ?

Why was the antifreeze black and slippery, but now pink with no signs of oil in it ?

If you were one tooth off, the engine would miss and not want to run. Chances are it would also backfire. Also, as far as the coolant, the black oily substance could have been fuel mixed with a little oil that has evaporated.

Has the check engine light come on? Also, make sure the crank sensor connection is tight and clean. And, has the check engine light come on?

the check engine light operates normally. After a short drive it comes on.

how would oil an gas get into the antifreeze? I could not detect any damage to the old head gasket.

Have you had the computer scanned to determine why the light is coming on? Most parts stores will do it for free. My guess is that there is a sensor problem causing this to happen.

As far as the oil / coolant / gas... It can come from a cracked or warped head, warped block, but usually a bad head gasket. Don't panic. Many times you can't tell where the gasket was leaking.

I disagree with the first reply to my original question.
I replaced a broken timing belt on a Chevette, that was assembled "off" by 1 tooth. Being off by 1 tooth alignment, the car started and would rev up ok. However, the car would only go 40 mph. I reset the itming belt by 1 tooth without the use of a timing light, because I was way out in the boonies on I70.
Then I was able to continue on my way to Ohio at the normal speed limit of 65MPH.

I was disappointed with your answere. Everything that was suggested was tried before I sent the question.

Therefore, I request my donation back. I was expecting more of a professional answere back.

02 Dodge Grand Caravan started "lurchng" with momentary rpm spikes at high speed. The engine stalled when i stopped. I let it cool down and all was ok for about 10 miles. Same thing. A mechanic rode with me with code reader and could find nothing (it didn't malfunction) during that 20 test!! Afterwards, it started again. The cruise control seemed to set it off on uphill inclines as I experimented with different speeds, on/off cruise, etc. The tranny acted up as I started up, then calmed down when I pumped the accelerator a few times. Tried starting out without cruise and no problem at high speed until I set cruise on. Suddenly all was good, no problem for 100 miles. Then notices a lurch starting out from stop sign? The major problem started after passing trhough a heavy rain storm. Tranny or cruise problem? I had noticed some subtile tranny slips at startup a few weeks before this all happened.

It sounds like the trans is slipping. When was the last service with a new filter?

The last transmission service (fluid and filter) was about 70,000 miles ago). Two mechanics have told me the fluid still looks good and does not smell burnt. Another mechanic recently tried "retraining" it and said it seems to work better now. I asked for a fluid and filter change but he said that would not make a difference!

There have been situations where the filter plugged and caused problems. It was just a thought.

[quote:1b22e0b343="jzeitler"]The last transmission service (fluid and filter) was about 70,000 miles ago). Two mechanics have told me the fluid still looks good and does not smell burnt... >snip[/quote:1b22e0b343]

The technician's advice above is very good.

I'm just a person who must maintain my own vehicles due to economic necessity (low income medical disability). Minivan transmissions seem to be notorious for problems. I believe that one of the reasons is that these newer transmissions are engineered differently, require more frequent fluid and filter changes than older transmissions and this fact is often neglected by owners. (and some mechanics) The owner's manual on my 98 Caravan SE recommends transmission service at 30,000 miles and 15,000 miles under heavy use conditions. Look up the service schedule in your manual. BE SURE TO USE THE CORRECT FLUID! The cost of replacing a transmission due to simple service neglect is too high for me to take any chances. It's inexpensive and as suggested just might help remedy your problem or help prolong the life of your transmission

2002 caravan 3.3l no past trany problems. at about 40 mph the engine over revs and it feels like it is not shifting, although i can get up to speed. do you suspect an electrical or or sensor problem to the transmission? i have approx. 118,000 mi. check engine light is on.no problems with shifting between p r n d. thanks much

is it slipping(free reving)or just stuck in too low a gear?

not sure. it revs as i give it more gas. and yes it seems like it is stuck in gear. i can go as fast i would like but the engine revs over 40 mph. ive had it up to 80 or so in that condition but i dont want to damage the tranny

thanks a lot!

can you get codes from CEL read?

When starting on cold mornings (32 or below) the engine starts as if the gas pedal is held to floor without touching the pedal. Rpm's return to normal right away but engine sounds like something is going to fly apart right after starting. It is going to throw a belt or something. I am afraid to start it on cold mornings. Starts normal all other times. I suspect a sensor or idle control, but have no engine light. Can this be adjusted? The rpm's rev up to 4000 or more before it backs off. This can't be good.

Too fast an idle speed. If an engine without computerized idle speed control is idling too fast and refuses to come down to a normal idle speed despite your best efforts to back off the carburetor idle speed screw or air bypass adjustment screw (fuel injection), air is getting past the throttle somewhere. Common leak paths include the carburetor and throttle body gaskets, carburetor insulator spacers, intake manifold gaskets, and of course, any of the engine's vacuum fittings, hoses and accessories. It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors are allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a worn throttle shaft and a defective idle speed speed control motor/valve stuck in the extended (high idle speed) position/throttle position sensor. Also the throttle plate could be binding in its bore and kinked accelerator cable, coolant temperature sensor might not be operating properly misleading the computer that the engine is still cold and computer throwing fuel at it raising the idle speed

My idle is normal. On cold mornings, well below freezing, the engine goes to wide open throttle then drops to normal fast idle. Does this on it's own without touching gas. Going to throw a rod one of these days.

The idle air control valve sends input signal to the computer so it can target the idle speed this is not happening-I recommend you clean it out and see what happens. If it continues replace it

My Caravan seems to run fine for the most part. It is only when i reach speeds of 55 or 60 mph and I try to pass something the engine revs up and the rpm gauge is reading between 55000 to 60000 rpms (almost redline) before it finally settles back out. I am not unnecessarily stomping the gas pedal to the floor or anything like that. Also not sure if this is related to the same problem but the radio has died and all i see are two equalizer lights blinking on and off constantly when there is power to the radio. Any idea what this could be?

check fuses for the radio would be a 1st step
do you have check engine light on and if so get the codes
let me know

I checked the error codes but unfortunately I had disconnected the battery terminal in hopes that it would reset the radio. It didn't. The only error codes that it gives me now is a P1684 - the battery terminal was disconnected within the last 50 starts. When I find out more I will let you know. Thanks for your help.

For all practical purposes, your radio is not repairable. You have either the cassette version or the cd version AM / FM radio. These are built by Chrysler with a microprocessor made by North American Philips, (NAP), the same people who make the really crappy Magnavox and Philips tvs. These microprocessors have a 100 percent failure rate. I have the special equipment to replace them, but then the software has to be "burned in" for the specific application. They will never sell me the expensive equipment to do that.

There is a list of about 30 different symptoms these radios develop, from going dead for five seconds when moving a tone control, loss of volume, no response when changing stations, etc. But by far, the most common symptom is flashing yellow leds in the tone controls, a thumping in the speakers, and the radio is dead. I have about 20 of these here already. The only difference from your description is all the radios I've ever seen with these problems have three tone controls, not two. If yours indeed has only two tone controls, I'd like to know the model number so I can add it to my list.

The good news is there are other radios built by Mitsubishi that are very high quality and are a direct replacement. There is one model of cassette player that has the same three tone controls with yellow leds, looks exactly the same except it has one extra button for "Scan", uses the same plugs, and will run the same optional cd changer. These sell for around $70.00 on eBay because used car dealers all over the country are looking for them to fix cars on their lots.

This is also a good time to upgrade to a cd / cassette combo. These are built by Mitsubishi too, and they look the same and run remote cd changers too. They typically sell for $175.00 to $225.00 which is considerably less than the cost of repairing a cassette player through the authorized service centers.

The higher end cd-only units are mostly built by Alpine. They have a lot more trouble than the Mitsubishi radios, and Alpine will not allow the repair centers to sell me parts or service manuals. I can still fix them but it takes longer.

It is quite common for radios like yours to develop problems when something else happens such as disconnecting the battery or having a charging system problem. My feeling is the other problem did not cause the radio failure, but it might have hurried it up a little. Most of these radios didn't last this long either; almost all have failed by now. You have to watch what you buy for a used one because you don't want to get another one that has the same problem.

The Mitsubishi radios are much higher quality than anything you'll find in the aftermarket, and they're pretty easy to replace. No silly programming is required like on GM cars. If you can't find a suitable replacement, holler back for more information. I sell and repair these at the nation's second largest old car show swap meet, and I repair them for dealers around WI.

caradiodoc
[email protected]

Sometimes it runs no issue.

Check engine light is not on it was on over a month ago within an emissions control error, local shop did a tune-up and upkeep overhaul.

It sporadically revs at idle up to the 3000 mark for a couple seconds then drops back down to normal.
When first starting and changing gears it bogs way down, the dash lights go dim, and the engine stalls.
When driving and the rpm's start jumping the vehicle starts to buck.

Does have a store-bought locking gas cap.

Any ideas on what may be wrong and is it safe to drive?

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner the make sure battery terminal ends are clean and free of corrosion. you should have belt and tensioner checked as recommended replacement is 60,000 miles for both as tensioner loses tension and belt has to be checked with a gauge not cracks.

very recently my minivan has been acting up. when i am going 30 and above the rpms don't go back down. so if i am driving at say 40 mphs the rpms stay at about 3000 or above rpms. when i am coming to a stop the rpms do go back down to normal. when i am backing out of my drive way and go back into drive the van jerks alittle. my step dad thinks it a sensor for the rpms. is he right?

Check and see if your transmission is shifting, if not there are several things it could be. This has happened to me a couple of times and in both cases it was a damaged speed sensor on a wheel. If you have recently driven in muddy conditions it can happen. I often drive on gravel roads so I have come to expect it from time to time. Could be other sensors as well. If you have regular maintance and care for the transmission I wouldn't expect a something major there. Is there a check engine light? There should be in the case of a speed sensor.

no it's not shifting it's keeping the rpms high when i am going 30 or above they go up to 3000 and i am able to drive it even up to 55 mph and the rpms are at 4000. yes the check engine light is on. when i put it in reverse to back up and then i put it back into drive the van bucks a little.

yes i get the regular mantance done. step father thinks its the rpm sensor. is that hard to fix?

Sounds like speed sensor. Both times I had the issue I took it to a mechanic, had the code read and fixed. Repair expense was <$150 for me. Don't know about the rpm sensor.