My engine will not start up?

Hello,

It sounds like your crankshaft angle sensor has gone out but to be sure please follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Here is the location for your car

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Try resetting the alarm system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Cheers, Ken

While driving the engine (3.5) shutdown . We opened the hood and a smelly smoke was pouring from the alternator area. We replaced the alternator but the engine will turn over slowly and won’t start after replacing the battery too.the fuel pump has no power.

Hello,

Can you lift the lid of the TIPM to see if it smells as well? It is common for the TIPM to go out which is easy to replace the because it self initializes. The instructions of the replacement are below. Please let us know what happens.

When you turn the car over it sputters to start, which it does eventually taking about 3 to 5 seconds. You do not need to give it gas, it will start. If you do give it gas it will rev strangely louder than usual. Started purging vehicle first still sputters but not as long. What is it? After the first start for the day car will start no problem for a few times then it starts sputtering again. Is it the fuel filter? It's almost like it isn't getting enough gas when you first start it?

Are there any service engine soon or check engine light on? This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

This car sometimes will not start. I have purchased a new battery. And have notice that the bolt light stays on along with engine light

I replaced the crankshaft sensor like Ken said and now the problem has gone away good on ya!

Hi my avenger turns over strong but the is no power to the coils and getting no fuel to the cylinders a quick check gives me errors p0685 and p0688 both refer to the asd how do I diagnose this issue am I looking for a bad fuse or relay ?

the codes are for the automatic shutdown relay or circuit.and your symptoms support that issue.this issue is pretty complex and requires some very specific testing procedure and specific equipment.it could be anything from the p.c.m. to the relay to the circuit.so I am going to have to suggest that you take this one to a shop for diagnosis atleast.then maybe we could help you with the repair procedure.

Drove car to town came home went out next day and car would not start. I was told try the crank sensor so I replaces it and still will not start.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

There could be a few things causing a no start. Take a look through this link and let me know if there is anything that helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Other Category problem
2000 Dodge Avenger 6 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 70,000 miles
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At first, the car would cut out momentarily while driving, but not actually die. Then it stalled a couple of times, but would restart easily. Now when it finally died, it will not start at all. Put in new battery, nothing. 3 people looked at it and said it is not firing at all. Any ideas?

i also have the same 2000 dodge avenger i took it in for the same problem and they told me it was the fuel pump and fuel injectors but once i fixed them the car still acted up the same way but the job cost $500 maybe it will work for you i doubt it though try taking it to a certified michanic for a complete diagnostic im doing that tomorrow ill let you know what they say

This is my son's car. It has trouble starting, mostly at night. We're in Lexington, KY and it's been in the 40's. We've tried: taking the gas cap off, moving the fuel line around, turning the key til the dash lights come on, pumping the accelerator, etc. I don't smell gas after repeated attempts to start. We just had the negative battery cable end replaced, it wouldn't tighten all the way. I'm thinking fuel pump or filter. What can we do to rule out other causes. We got an estimate recently, they thought it wasn't getting enough of a spark. Since I don't smell gas after repeated starting attempts with pumping the accelerator, I'm thinking a fuel problem. Thanks in advance for your help, Rick

If you think it may not be getting fuel you can give it a spray of starting fluid. But just a small amount.

Replaced fuel filter, ended up being a crankshaft sensor. Same thing happened to my 1999 Ram 1500. Thanks for posting a reply.

Your welcome sir. Good car, glad its ok.
It is a nightmare with an engine controller handling spark and fuel. But not if you can read codes from it. Have a good day. Come back anytime. Thank the men who have given the country this avenue of information for all people.
Joe

I drove my 1998 Dodge Avenger ES from my house to a friends house about 10 miles away and it ran normal, then the next morning i went out to leave and my car wouldnt start and its not getting fire from any of the plug wires so i need an opinion on whats wrong with my car!

It's broke!

Okay, that was the short answer. You can't get stuck on the first thing you find missing, spark in this case. The injectors and fuel pump are likely not working either. First of all, if you can hear it over the noise of the chime, listen for the hum of the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition switch. That will tell us where to look next. That hum will only last for one second. Listen by the tank while a helper turns the ignition switch to "run" if you have to. Do you have a test light or voltmeter and know how to use 'em?

yeah the fuel pump is kicking on and im getting fuel to the injectors but i took the distributer cap off and changed it and the rotor button but i talked to my regular mechanic earlier and he seems to think its the crankshaft postion sensor so whats your opinion on that diagnosis cause i hd the crank sensor changed b4 and it made my car run better until the other day when now its getting fuel but no spark

i even thought it might be vapor locked t first so i checked that and still wouldnt start so im kinda puzzled i ws gna change the ignition coil next but thats kinda a tough job so if i can get by with changing the crank sensor and that fixes it i will be greatful!

That one second burst from the fuel pump is to insure the pressure is up for starting. That will produce pressure in the fuel supply system but it doesn't mean the pump is running during cranking. If the injectors aren't pulsing during cranking there won't be anything to bleed that pressure down. That's why pressure in the system is misleading.

The place to start is by determining if the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay is turning on during cranking. The easiest way to test that is to measure the voltage on the feed wire. That will be the same color wire at all of the injectors. A test light works better than a voltmeter. You should see voltage there for one second, but what's important is if that voltage comes back during cranking. If it does not, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. If you have a V-6 engine, the distributor is the most likely suspect.

Heading out of town soon. Will check back with your progress in the evening.

I am having a problem in the morning with my car starting unless i step on the gas while starting it it will not start, but after it is wramed up it starts perfect.

Hello, I'd use a gage and check fuel pressure, maybe the pressure bleeds off during the night? How long since a tune-up?

I changed the spark plugs and did an oil change the engine light went off and it starts up but when i go to start it, it still hesitated to start a little not as bad as before, but it does still take s about 2 seconds to start could it be the gas pump..Or what else do you think it could be...

I appreciate ur help being that iam not mechanicaly inclined. Thank you.

I'd use a fuel pressure gage and check fuel pressure. You might be able to check for trouble-codes, if there are any, by cycling the ignition switch, on --off, on--off, on, you turn the key till the dash lites come on, no further. The check engine lite starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. I'm not positive that will work on your model year? It won't hurt to try.

my check engine light has been on, all my fluids are up , i started it to warm up , came back outside and it was not running, it will turn over but will not start and my oil pressure guage is at 0

If a 2.5L is not starting there are not too many things you can do except check to see if the timing belt may have broken or jumped, this will do all the symptoms you describe, it should show some oil pressure movement, but I wouldn't rely on it though, as it needs full starting rpm's to give you an accurate reading. With over 200,000 miles it may be low already. If you can get a hold of a scanner and plug it in, it will read no crank or cam sense, you could take a cover of the front, either side, mark it and have a friend turn it over, if it turns then you must check the alignment, I am moving to this mostly because of your high mileage, I don't want you to start spending time and money because repair parts are expensive. All the belt and alignment information is here, and so is an inexpensive scanner that may help you for years to come.

I just bought this vehicle that has been sitting for six years. It would not start so I figured out it was not getting any fuel so I bought a used fuel pump and put it in. It fired right up no problem I let it run for about thirty minutes and cut it off. I then tried to start it again about five hours later and it made a horrible sound like metal hitting in the head or something. So I was thinking it may have jumped time when I cut it off but then I pulled the plugs and it looked like a lot of fuel was on top of the piston. So then I pulled the dip stick and the oil smelled like the old stale gas. Not sure what happened but seems like the used fuel pump kept on pumping gas. Please help me I really like this car.

The fuel pump gets turned off when the engine is not rotating. Even if it did stay running, the injectors are not being pulsed, so the fuel would just get pushed through the pressure regulator and go back into the tank, just like when the engine is running.

It is possible for the fuel pressure regulator to leak through the internal diaphragm, then into the vacuum hose and get sucked into the intake manifold, but that would cause really poor engine performance with lots of black smoke from the exhaust. A better suspect is a leaking fuel injector. That typically will not be noticed while the engine is running, but once it is stopped, the fuel will leak into the intake manifold and usually into that cylinder.

The clue to a leaking injector is you will find that leaked fuel in just one cylinder. From there it will seep into the oil. To verify the fuel is going somewhere, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail, then watch if the pressure drops when the engine is stopped. It should hold for days, if not weeks. With a leaking injector, pressure will drop within minutes to perhaps as much as an hour.

Once you have verified fuel pressure is dropping, use a small hose pinch-off pliers to pinch the fuel return hose where it is rubber between the fuel rail and the body. If the pressure is dropping because the regulator is leaking, it will not drop while that hose is pinched. The problem with this story is with a leaking regulator, the fuel will just go harmlessly into the tank. You are finding fuel in the engine. The regulator will not cause that unless it is through the vacuum port, but you did not observe the associated running problem.

The first thing I would try is a good hour-long run with fresh gas. Almost all brands of gas have plenty of detergents and other additives that may start to dissolve any varnish build-up in the injectors. Over time the injectors may start to seal better. I normally do not expect fuel system additives or cleaners to do much because they are just a quick shot of highly-concentrated additives already found in gas. Every time you fill the tank with fresh gas, you are getting the same cleaners at a lower concentration, but continuously.

If the car was parked six years ago because of this fuel problem, you have to look at the rest of its history. If it was driven regularly, an injector may have just decided it i is time to leak. That is not terribly common. If the previous owner drove in such a way that a tank of gas lasted for a coupe of months, there could be varnish built up inside otherwise good injectors. Replacing the injectors would solve that problem right now, but regular driving might also solve it in short order.

Sense I bought this car in the summer, my car did not start unless I drove it everyday. Now that it's winter, it starts up the first time, regardless of how long it has been sitting. Recently up here in the north, we had a warm spell, and I am having the same problem. Car will only start if sitting if it is below 20 degrees, or if I let the fuel pump run a couple times. The fuel pump and the filter were recently replaced. Any thoughts?

Sounds like fuel pressure is bleeding off through a leaking fuel injector. This happens on my Caravan with 378,000 miles. The solution has been to turn the ignition switch to "run" and wait a few seconds until the fuel pump turns off, then crank the engine. That couple of seconds is enough time to build fuel pressure in preparation for starting.

caradiodoc

it started then i shut off went to restart and it wouldn't start. Sounds like it isn't getting fuel.

Hello, I'm Danny.

The first thing you should do is perform a fuel pressure test. If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved for testing fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The fuel pressure specification for your Avenger is 47-50 PSI. After performing this test get back to us and we'll go from there. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.