crankshaft position sensor?

Hi checking for spark will tell which direction to proceed. It sounds like the crankshaft sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

If I then turn the ignition switch to start, the van starts and then immediately dies. Concerns me-sounds like the ignition switch ignition circuit on it is open-Have the ignition switch tested could be heating up and breaking open-Let us know

If you can tell me how to check for spark without having to remove the intake manifold I will do it next time it happens. The check engine light does not come on. I have been watching the dash and I have not noticed any other problem. When the van does start, it runs fine and smooth. It might be a heat related problem, but I'm not sure. What do you mean by testing the ignition switch? Do you mean the dash switch, the key fob, or something under the hood?

Today was very warm out and I had a problem starting twice. I took it to my mechanic and it finally did not start for him as well. He went to check the fuel pressure and when he disconnected the fuel line he said it was like cutting the end of a hose off of an air compressor. He got a sudden and violent release of fuel vapour. He checked the fuel pump and it was working properly and when he reconnected the fuel line, the van started properly. Our thought is it is vapour locking. We are not sure why it is vapour locking. Anyone have any thoughts?

Today we checked the fuel line from the gas tank to the engine and could not find anything amiss. No fuel leaks, etc. The only conclusion we can come up with is that there is a problem with the crankset senor so Installed a new unit have not had the issue since thank you.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

I have my van opened up right now and having a hard time locating the crankshaft position sensor to replace it. Possibly have any photos or diagrams to help? Or GPS directions.

It is located on the transmission bell housing below the exhaust cross over pipe.

See the diagram below for location.

Thanks for the information. I did some intensive searching with my digital camera and found it tucked in that uncomfortable position under the exhaust.

I am trying to solve a mystery though. It continues to smell like it is flooded after several seconds of trying to start. On occasion it will start right up, but mostly it winds several times before starting.

I have changed the o2 sensors, the EGR, the crank shaft sensor, put in new spark plugs and still no resolve. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.

If you are sure it is flooding, check the temp sensor. This sensor tells the computer how rich or lean to make the fuel mixture based on ambient temp and coolant temp. If it is telling the computer it is -40 degrees, the computer will tell the injectors to dump fuel to the engine.

By the way, isn't the crank sensor fun to get to (lol).

I did not know my arm could bend in so many directions. I decided to take out the battery and swung the battery tray toward the hood so that I had more elbow room.

I will look into the temperature sensor. Each time you start the engine and it has to "wind" up before starting, immediately after it smells like excess gasoline. When I was under the hood yesterday, I took the air filter box off so I could find the camshaft sensor and the same odor drifted out of the air intake.

Thanks for your help. I cannot tell you how much it is appreciated. I bought this van thinking it was a good deal, but I have ended up with a lot of work instead. Hopefully as I knock each one off, it will become a better vehicle!

Jeff

Jeff,

I am glad to help. Do not worry. You will get it fixed. Then you will know that you have a good vehicle. Let me know if you have other questions. That is why we are here.

Joe

I do have one major issue I am trying to solve. I realize that it could be several different things. Ideas are helpful though.

We have always had a fill up issue. We can only put about 1 to 1-1/2 gallons of fuel at a time before the neck fills up and shuts off the pump. It seems to be getting worse. It has been mentioned that there is a "burp" valve on the burp tube up next to the top of the filler neck. They said that if I can get to that and clean it out with carburetor cleaner that it should be okay then.

I have read online where there is a splash back issue with these vans and other related Chrysler's. Have you heard of this and any common fixes?

Thanks again for your time.

Honestly, there is a vent tube that runs from the tank along side of the filler tube (under vehicle). They are mostly steel, but they have a rubber hose that attaches the steel to the tank. If that plugs or gets damaged, air cannot escape from the tank when you feel it. As a result, the gas can't enter and comes back out shutting the pump. What a pain. It most likely takes you twenty minutes to get five gallons of gas. That vent is most likely where the problem is. I do not know that carburetor cleaner will clean it, but it is worth a try.

Thanks again! I think that I will take a look at the fuel neck and hope there is a vent on that tube. Look for any blockage on that vent line and try to clean it out.

I really appreciate your input and will let you know what I find.

Enjoy the day!

i have a 2005 T&C with the 3.3L and got a code saying the crank position sensor was going bad. I bought the sensor and cant find anything that looks like it on that motor. I did find the cam sensor and thought it would be around the right area but not having much luck. Any help would save me the wife is getting tired of having to drive my truck.

Hello, my info shows the location to be, backside of engine block, down low. You may have to get under the vehicle, to get at it, be safe.

Just thought I would let you know that I have changed the air temperature sensor and the cam shaft sensor, neither one worked on the engine starting issue.

I have talked with a friend that works for Dodge. His mechanic thinks it may be a valve in the tank or the vapor canister solenoid. I am taking it to them the Saturday after this. Hopefully I will be able to continue to get gas into it until then.

I changed the shocks last night and a new sound (rattle) is coming from the back right side as I drive. I lifted the rear passenger side wheel well by hand and could hear a rattle also. Not sure what It is. If you have ideas or thoughts, would appreciate it.

I am guessing a loose bolt to the springs or a cross member? Maybe a bushing?

Thanks. I will let you know what the guys find out next weekend.

Let me know.

Update:
Had the van in to Chrysler. The tank was dropped down and discovered that someone had previously broken the plastic tube leading out of the vacuum pump and tried to cover it by gluing this piece back together. Very possibly happened about four months ago when another dealership changed out the fuel pump. I will have to replace the fuel tank.

Still having a start up issue that seems to be an overage of fuel coming into the engine before it will ignite and start the engine. Changed the spark plugs to Champion double platinum's, but still no change. Getting new spark plug wires next week.

I am running out of ideas for this issue.

My terrible clanging noise was the front bushing on the passenger leaf spring. Do not know if it was loose or not, but was told about how they need to be torqued to around 65 lbs.

Any thoughts about the start up issue would be appreciated. Thanks for your help and ideas over the past few weeks!

If you smell unburned gas, check the fuel pump pressure and regulator. It may be forcing too much fuel.

From what I can tell, I assume that the fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump or at least in the fuel tank. Is that correct?

I placed the new spark plug wires onto the van and it started like a charm for three to four times and then it went back to its old game of cranking before ignition. Any thoughts?

Hope things are going well for you.

Thanks again for your time and thoughts.

You are right about the fuel pressure regulator. It is in the tank. As far as the starting, for the heck of it, pull one of the new plugs out and let me know its condition. Is it wet, black?

I took out the middle piston spark plug in the back of the engine (number three? cylinder) and it appeared to have an oil around the threads, but the end of the spark plug appears okay to me. I included pictures of this spark plug and a picture of the head.

I also took out the front middle spark plug (number four? cylinder) for a comparison. It appeared dry and clean. I included pictures of it and the head again for comparison.

The plugs look good. I cannot remember if you already checked fuel pump pressure. Let me know.

I have not checked the fuel pump pressure (of course, I do not have that equipment or knowledge as of yet). Although, the local dealer replaced the fuel pump just around five or six months ago.

You know, I would like you to do it. It is not hard. Go to our homepage under the DIY section. There are directions and a video showing how to check both the pump and regulator. All you need is a fuel pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend them to you with hopes of selling you a new pump.

I will look into this and get back to you soon. Once again, your help and time is appreciated.

Thanks.

Update: I went to a local auto shop and ended up doing some thinking with these guys. Result was that we believe that I have a #3 cylinder fuel injector leaking, thus causing the hesitation during start up and causing the fuel pressure to gradually go down.

I see where it is recommended to change all of the fuel injectors at the same time, which can be pricy up front. What do you recommend? Can a person just change one fuel injector and be okay? There is only 36,700 miles on the van right now.

Thoughts are appreciated. Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

Also ... something that I thought of, but neglected to mention to you when I checked the spark plugs. The #3 cylinder spark plug had a fuel odor to it where the #4 did not.

Save the money by just switching injectors to see if the miss changes cylinders.

I wanted to update you on what has progressed on the van (Chrysler T & C Touring, 3.8L).

Things that have been done:

Camshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Spark Plugs & Wires
Ignition Coil
EGR Valve
Air Temp Sensor
O2 Sensors #1 & #2
Starter Relay
MAP Sensor
PCV Valve
Idle Air Control Valve
Throttle Positon Sensor
Vapor Canister Solenoid
Fuel Tank

I think that I am working on a vacuum leak of some sort. Once I replaced the Fuel Tank (which had a vacuum line broken on it from a previous repair) and especially the Vapor Canister Solenoid, The engine began running much better and my gas mileage has improved some.

I have consistently had a P0303 code appear at start up of the engine. Right now the idle is smooth with occasional slight misfire and I have a slight hesitation in drive when going from idle to applying gas pedal. This is more pronounce when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm, the idle is smooth with an occasional misfire and the hesitation when applying gas pedal tends to become lessened to negligible. Idle is generally smooth or smoother in park thru neutral but misfire is more pronounce in drive. I have not noticed any other vacuum leaks, although I may have missed one without realizing it.

Is it possible that I need a new Vapor Canister, considering that once the Vapor Canister Solenoid was replaced that the misfire and hesitation lessened? Any other thoughts to things I should check/recheck?

Your thoughts and ideas have been and will continue to be appreciated. I hope you and your family have a wonderful and happy Thanksgiving holiday!

Glad to hear you have it running better. If the compression, plug, spark and fuel to cyl 3 is good, I feel there still could be a vacuum leak. As far as the canister, it if is bad, yes, it could be causing the issue.

It would be much easier if I was there. Let me know if you can't find any other leaks. Also, you have a great Thanksgiving too.

Joe

Finally ... A new year and a new outlook for the van.

I took the van to a local mechanic shop due to just getting tired of it all and they found that the P0303 code followed the spark plug to another cylinder. Apparently I missed trying to switch the spark plugs around.

Anyway, I had installed two different sets of spark plugs onto the van in the past six months. Started with a set of Autolites that were a direct replacement for what was in the van. The second set was Champion Double Platinum, which has been recommended for Chrysler product. Both sets saw the P0303 code. After changing to the Champions, I decided to replace the Coil and wires.

I have been running the van for about a week now with no codes showing up. Question ... Is it possible that the old coil or wires were causing the P0303 code??

I am glad that they found the issue, just wish I would have considered it before taking it in and replaced the spark plug myself. Although, they did put it on the computer and said that everything else appears to be working well. I do need to replace my o-rings on all of my fuel injectors though. #6 has an ever so small leak to it, yet the van runs fine now.

Overall ... I really appreciate your input and directions over throughout. I hope that you and your family have had a joyous and wonderful holiday season!

God's Peace!