Fuse panel diagrams need to know which number fuse?

there is a relay under the dash L/H side and a fuse in relay box l/H side of engine bay it is fuse No 23 rated at 15 Amp. This guide will help you test thf use with the fuse panel diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I have looked at a lot of previously asked questions/responses re: relay diagram but none are set up like mine . There are more slots 5 across bottom and 3 up ( or 4 up and 4 more across bottom) I need the position of the 2 fuel relays.

This is a photo of interior fuse panel for my car listed above. My cover only came with diagram of the fuses not the relays. can you help with a diagram or where I can get the information? thanks

Hello,

The information that you requested is in the diagrams down below. Please go through the diagrams and get back to us if these help. If you should have any other vehicle related questions, please, do not hesitate to ask.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I was putting in my new aftermarket stereo for my car, it worked for a minute then shut off. So my stereo and clock will not work. I think I have a blown fuse but have no idea where to locate that exact fuse to see if it is blown.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Check fuses 15, 17, 18 in the fuse/relay box in the front of the engine compartment. Here are pictures to help. The second picture is the legend of all fuses in this box. Here is a link that discusses checking fuses:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe

Why does my number 13 fuse keep blowing in the under ho fuse box. It has a 2.4 automatic

Fuse # 13 i for the IVECS-II, 4AT, MFI system, air conditioningsystem, cooling system and immobilizer.

A short in any of these would cause the fuse to blow.

I had a eclipse come in last week that would blow fuse13, then be fine for a week or two. Ended up being a short where the wire harness goes over the thermostat housing. There are two plastic tabs that hold harness up. If one of the tabs break the harness will rub back and forth every time the engine shifts. I hope this helps you. I spent hours testing wires untill i found it.

Thanks for the input, Timbad.

Where such problems are concerned, experience beats anything.

Hello,
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Earlier my aftermarket alarm started going off for no reason so I went out to turn it off. When I opened my car door I noticed the interior lights did not come on and when I put the key in the ignition the door open chime did not come on. I cranked up the car all the way and noticed the radio and my dash clock did not come on either. Recently I had been having problems with the a/c fuse melting completely because I believe the fuse box is shorting out. So I was wondering if when the alarm went off did it draw so much power that the fuse box just finally shorted completely out? I know it isn't a battery issue because the car will start and the headlights work and I just bought a new battery about 5 months ago.

Sounds like you're overlooking a different issue. Fuses had better blow, not melt from over-current, otherwise, what good are they? Look at the terminals in the fuse box to see if they are blackened or corroded. Either of those things will cause heat to build up when current is flowing through them. THAT is what can cause plastic things to melt. Of course that's if the correct size fuses are in place.

To repair melted fuse boxes and switch connectors, you have to cut the overheated terminals out and replace them individually, and replace usually about 4" of the wires that have become hardened. All of the splices and terminals should be soldered and sealed with heat-shrink tubing. Never rely on twisting wires together and covering them with electrical tape.

Would it be a good idea to also replace the whole fuse box?

You could do that too but that's a lot of work. Rather than cut and splice the multitude of wires, there will be a way to release each terminal so you can transfer them one at a time to the new fuse box. That way you still only have to replace the overheated terminals.

Okay, thank you very much.

Four cylinder two wheel drive manual 167,000 miles.

I am having some problems hooking accessories to the fuse box. Previous owner used the fuse box quite a few times hooking wires directly to it for power. Trying to reconnect some things and having problems. It appears half the fuses have power and half do not. Is that possible? Also, playing with the fuses all of a sudden the car will not start. Turn key and nothing like the battery is drained. Any idea what might cause the car to not start? Also, it would help if I had a fuse box layout diagram. Any chance you might have one of those?

Could be you have a loose wire at the back of the fuse box at #13, it is a dedicated fuse for the ignition. Here is the fuse layout for box inside the car:

Not sure I follow where #13 is. Is it in the fuse box inside the car or under the hood? Also, the diagram of the fuse box has 17 fuses, I only have 12 should I have 17 fuses? I tried to take pictures of my boxes.

I do not see the pictures did you get those?

It is like I have no power in the fuse box. I am trying to hook a hot wire to the fuse box and cannot find any.

There are several models of your car exactly which model and engine do you have? Turbo? ES, SE, GT?

Non turbo GT.

Okay, no power at any fuse inside the car, first thing is remove all non factory hook-ups to that fuse panel inside the car, then open the hood, and test the fuse links in the fuse box under the hood. They are right where the positive battery cable connects to it.

Most of them look like fuses but quite a few do not. How would I check those? Replace each one with a new one? Is the number one fusible link outside the main box?

Yes connected at the front of the under hood box. These are usually the part the fails.

I appreciate the help. I found it. It was a 40 amp fuse in the box under the hood. Cannot believe one fuse controls that much.

These are hard to blow, usually it is a maxi-fuse, and the way your inside box was abused, it took some doing to blow the fuse!