timing belt replacement

here are pics of cam and crank piston has to be tdc on compression stroke. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Engine Mechanical problem
2007 Hyundai Accent 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 93K miles

My car suddenly stopped this morning. AAA towed it to pepboys where I was told the timing belt was broken. The tech went on to say that accent's have interfrence engines, and a portion of the engine would need to be moved, opened?? to get to the timing belt and that would involve possibly needing to replace gaskets, valves, cylinder heads and re-phasing engine. The mechanic said if it were his car he would'nt do it...too expensive. Pepboys estimate is 2500. Could you possibly verifiy what pepboys is telling me? Basicly is this true?? PLEASE & Thank U

Call your Hyundai dealer it may be under warranty 10 years or 100,000 miles if you are the original owner.

My timing belt broke and bent 6 valves! My mechanic got it fixed and put back together but it won't idle down from 1800 rpm. What could be the problem in your professional opinion?

vacuum leak, idle control valve or throttle body

you mean he cannot fix this????

Roy

I have a 2007 hyundai accent. The timing belt went out and my nephew replaced it. When i try to drive it if i put even medium pressure of the gas pedal its like it goes into neutral and the rpms go way up before it changes gears. I don't hear any knocking.

I was going about 35 mph when the belt went out. I knew what it was right away and just tried to start it twice. I don't believe the belt had ever been changed and when he took it off there were hardly any teeth left and it was pretty rotted.

Love this site :-)

The motor is more than likely damaged as the pistons probably hit the valves and bent them when the timing belt failed. Just a valve job and new timing belt will fix it.

Belt has lost teeth and no longer turns need to know if I need to pull the head and if not the timing marks please.

The head will have to come off, this is an interferance engine ands you will have bent a valve or two.

I want to replace timing belt and water pump. For you that have done it on this model, is it a job for the shop or can I do it? I'm really concerned about the limited space there is and also getting the pulley off. Looks like an impact wrench will be a really tight fit. Thanks .....

TIMING BELT Removal Lift vehicle using a jack. Remove engine support bracket, if necessary. Loosen, but do not remove water pump pulley bolts. Remove all accessory drive belts. Remove pulleys from crankshaft and water pump. CAUTION:DO NOT rotate engine counterclockwise. If reusing timing belt, place reference mark on timing belt to indicate direction of rotation before removal. Remove timing belt covers and gaskets, noting bolt length and location. Rotate crankshaft clockwise to align timing marks on crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. See Fig. 1 . If reusing old belt, place mark on belt to indicate direction of belt rotation. Loosen timing belt tensioner bolts, and move tensioner inward toward water pump. Temporarily tighten bolt in slotted side of tensioner. Remove timing belt. Fig. 1: Aligning Timing Marks Courtesy of HYUNDAI MOTOR CO. Inspection Check timing belt for cracks, cracked or missing teeth, and separating canvas. Inspect timing belt tensioner and idler pulley for worn bearing. Installation Ensure camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are still aligned. See Fig. 1 . Move timing belt tensioner toward water pump and tighten bolt. Install crankshaft sprocket (if removed) with chamfer (flange) toward engine. Install timing belt on crankshaft sprocket, timing belt idler, camshaft sprocket and timing belt tensioner. Make sure there is no slack in belt. If reusing old belt, ensure belt is installed in original direction of rotation. Apply counterclockwise force on camshaft sprocket to apply tension on tension side of belt. Ensure all timing marks are aligned. See Fig. 1 .

CAUTION:Slot-side timing belt tensioner bolt must be tightened before pivot-side to prevent belt tensioner from rotating, causing belt to be overtightened. Loosen timing belt tensioner bolts to place tension on timing belt. Tighten timing belt tensioner bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Smoothly rotate crankshaft clockwise for 2 full revolutions. Realign crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. To check belt tension, hold belt tensioner and timing belt together and apply slight thumb pressure (about 11 lbs.) at center point of belt tensioner. Ensure belt cog will reach half the width of timing belt tensioner bolt on slot-side of belt tensioner. Install crankshaft flange. Install timing belt cover. To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure. Adjust drive belts to proper tension.

This can be a tricky repair if you have never attempted it before ! .. you can usually get a impact gun on crankshaft sprocket if you remove the road wheel and backing cover Hope this helps

Big help! Thanks. I would like to ask 1 more question. I have a repair cd for this model, but doesn't show the location of number 1 spark plug cylinder. How can I tell which one it is? Thanks one more time!! You have been very helpful!!!

#1 is always the cylinder closest to the timing/cam belt ..

Hope this helps .. please let us know how your repair goes and any tips you may have for other forum user's ! Let me know

Okay, I'm now ready to replace my timing belt. To make sure I don't screw up, does the crankshaft pulley BOLT turn left to loosen? And what size impact SOCKET do I need to loosen it?

Thanks !

Hi hiltonn,

The crankshaft center bolt is normal threaded ie, to loosen, turn anticlockwise.

The size should be 19 mm hex bolt.

Thanks so much. Hope you have a great Father's Day and God Bless!

You're welcome and thanks for the well wishes.

Have a great day.

I see no adjustment for the timing belt tentioner. Is it done automatic? I don't have the hydraulic tentioner type.
With the tentioner bolts loose, I turned the crankshaft to the right about a half turn and then tightned down both tentioner bolts.

2005 Hyundai Accent 1.6 engine.
Thanks one more time!!

You should never turn the crankshaft with the tensioner bolts loosened. The timing belt can skip tooth when the camshaft is suddenly sprung forward by the valve springs if the crankshaft is turned too much.

Tightened the adjuster bolts, turn the crankshaft till you feel resistance of the compression and then release the tensioner bolts. Retighten the bolts after the tensioner spring pushes against the timing to self adjust. That is the adjustment you require.

I already put it all back together before I received your last helpful email. The last thing I done before putting the upper and lower covers back on was double checked for the timing marks and the crankshaft at TDC. I rotated the engine before putting all pulleys and belts back on. It cranked beautiful!! So am I safe?? I'll wait and hear from you before I crank it again!! Thanks.

Before cranking the engine, you must manually turn the crankshaft at least 2 revolutions and recheck the belt timing. If they all line up, you are safe.

Since you have rotated the crankshaft and rechecked the timing marks, it should be good.

Have a nice day.

Thank you for all your help. I will donate the next time I ask a question. You have been a great help! God bless you and your staff!

You're welcome and glad to be of help.

Thank you for using 2carpros.

How do you remove the crankshaft pulley?

Hi:
I believe there are 4 bolts holding it on. Have you checked for that?

2002 Hyundai Accent

The dealership told my elderly in-laws that they would have to change the timing belt/chain on their car before it broke, because when it broke it would probably ruin the engine. My father in law is starting radiation treat-ments next week, and this something that is going to be difficult for them to afford if they really don't have to, but of course it is cheaper than replacing the engine. Somebody on here told me that it was not a problem at all with my Saturn, how about the Hyundai? Thanks for your help!

Hi superbuyr1,

The timing belt is recommended to be replaced at 60 k miles and being an interference engine, it could damage the engine if it broke.

The mileages was not stated so I am not able to ascertain if the belt is due for replacement. Based on the year, it is due.

when should the timing belt be changed on a 1.5L 2002 hyundai accent with a 1.5 liter engine and a 5 speed transmission. the car has ac and has 59400 miles. Also, is this the type of engine that will damage the valves if the timing belt should break ?

Its an interference engine 1.5L and T/Belt replacement due at 60,000 miles-do it now

Just wanted to know. My engine was replaced before I bought it. I am not sure if it is a 1.5L or 1.6L is it possible that the previous owner put a 1.6L timing belt on a 1.5L or vice versa by mistake and the car still runs? I have eliminated other possibilities for the most part. Just wanted to know before I go down this path of the timing belt. Car does run a bit sluggish.

If its starting up with no problem and no engine performance and no noises at the front cover-drive on.

SYMPTOMS
For a couple weeks, whenever the clutch was in or the car was otherwise in neutral, there would be an audible and continuous squeak/screech similar to this video from about the 30-35 second mark, but quieter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBTTlYqWqIc

There would be no such squeaking noise as long as the car was in gear and moving, with the clutch let out. Driving the car for an extended period of time would sometimes cause the noise to go away.

I've been travelling on business and haven't had a chance to check it out from there.

However, last night I drove the car home, and the engine died when the car stopped. Brake and power steering hydraulics also stopped working.

The symptoms (total engine/hydraulic failure after decelerating from highway speeds to a full stop) are almost identical to when my Volvo's serpentine belt broke a couple of years ago. However, the serpentine belt on the Hyundai is intact, appears to be in reasonably good condition, and moves when the starter is turned. The car will not, however, start; it sounds like the starter works but the engine will not turn over.

QUESTION
Could it still be the serpentine belt? If so, how can I check?

Could this be timing belt failure? If so, how can I check?

And what other things could cause these symptoms?

Thanks a lot!

Hi ravalenzuela,

Thank you for the donation.

If the noise is anything similar to the one from the video, it definitely is not from the timing belt. Neither would it be from the serpentine belt. It is a bearing noise and since the noise only occurs when the clutch is depressed, I would suspect the clutch throwout bearing to be the culprit.

When the bearing seizes, depressing the clutch would cause the engine to stall at low speeds. As the clutch is required to be depressed when cranking, the seized bearing is putting additional load on the crankshaft preventing the sterter from turning.

Unplug the clutch pedal switch and use a jumper across the connector. Without depressing the clutch and with gear in neutral , try starting.

To check if the engine is seized due to a faulty timing belt, manually turn the crankshaft pulley with the aid of a spanner.

Another way to test if the engine is seized is to jack one side of the front tire off the ground. Engage 3rd or 4th gear and turn the wheel that is off the ground by hand. If you are able to turn the wheel, with a little resistance, the engine is ok.

To check the condition of the serpentine belt, see if the belt is intact and all the pullies are lined up. Removing the belt to test all the components would anable yout to check if any comonent is seized.

To check the timing belt, you need to remove the upper cover and turn the engine to verify the camshaft is turning when the engine is being turned.

Great advice, exactly right. Thank you so much!

You're welcome but I am curious which part is the correct one? The seized clutch throwout bearing?

The clutch throwout bearing does indeed need replacement, but the timing belt was also cracked. Not a cheap repair, but your analysis was spot on.

Thank you for the input.

Too bad it is going to cost a lot of money.

I have a 2000 accent with the 1.5 sohc engine.
The timing belt (serpentine) broke as i was driving. I am told that the motor is now bad. Is that true?

Hi Keggers76. Welcome to the forum. Many engines today are what is referred to as "interference engines" meaning the piston and the valves occupy the same space but not at the same time. When the timing belt breaks, the valve train stops almost instantly but the pistons take a while to coast to a stop. Some of the valves are open when they stop moving and the coasting pistons bang into them and bend them. It is very possible some of the valves will survive without being hit but some of the valves will definitely be bent.

Bent valves doesn't mean the engine is junk but it means "get out your wallet". You will need a valve job which is not such a terrible thing at 110,000 miles. This will typical run around $500.00 to, . . . oh, . . . about $800.00 including the new timing belt.

I personally will never own any car with an interference engine. I drive only older Chrysler products but every manufacturer has at least a few engines of that design. My '88 Grand Caravan has 379,000 miles and the timing belt was only replaced once when the water pump went out but that is not an interference engine, so if it were to break, no serious damage would occur except to my shoes as I walk home! :) That is fairly uncommon though. To put things in perspective, Hondas from the 1980s recommended the timing belt be replaced every 75,000 miles, and it was common for them to break at 65,000 miles! Most engines will go longer than that but I suspect if you can find it in the owner's manual, it is probably recommended to replace your belt at or before 100,000 miles.

If your engine is not an interference design, all you will need is a new timing belt. Many engines, such as mine, run the water pump with the timing belt and most shops will want to replace it too for insurance and since they're already in there. Replacing each part by itself is a big job so might as well do both right away. Some manufacturers also recommend replacing the part that maintains the proper tension on the belt. It's smart to do that right away too to prevent future problems.

Even if you need a valve job, this is no reason to scrap the car. The cost of repair is equivalent to two or three monthly car payments if you buy something new, and a used car could develop the same problem. If you like your car, fix it. If you don't like it, you'll get almost the same value for a trade-in even if you don't have it repaired first.

One final thought: In rare instances one or more pistons could be cracked when the timing belt fails and they hit the open valves. There is no easy way to tell until the cylinder head is removed. At that point the repair estimate will go way up, but keep in mind a used engine from the salvage yard could develop the same problem. A total engine rebuild may be required at that point.

caradiodoc