headlights, turn signals, door locks (via keyless) just stopped working.

The next thing would be to look at the immobilizer but that would only be if the car were not starting. The bottom line is that getting the trouble codes pulled will be the next step in diagnosing the situation. We are still headed down the right tract.

I had thought about it some more and it might very well be an issue with the anti-theft system or the immobilizer. If you are still having issues let me know and we can pursue that path.

Here are wiring diagrams to show you both the headlight and blinker light system so you can see how they work.

There is an MICU they both share FYI.

Use this guide to test for power loss.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

My 2007 Odyssey had almost the identical symptoms last night. My 2007 Odyssey's Bright lights, turn signals, temperature gauge, both power sliding doors, my back windshield wiper, gauge lights flicker, intermittent wipers don't work, wipers in regular speed operate in fast speed, and fluids all stopped working at the same time. All fuses checked, no go. Stopped and restarted van, again no go. Went to parts store - no codes are showing up, Battery, Starter, and Alternator test fine.

Looks like I made a mistake in my wording. I said "no go," when i meant that solution didnt work. Actually the engine runs fine. And there were no codes when tested at AutoZone this morning. If the engine runs fine, it wouldn't be the imbolizer would it?

Hi everyone. The solution to my original post is still not found. However we have done some testing. The dealership has replaced the battery but the Electrical Problem still occurs after a steady or heavy rain storm. So when the van is parked outside during weather like it was when my wife was at work. The same issues appear and it takes a while to correct if at all.

To be clear:
1. Key fob and battery are OK
2. All fuses check out.
3. There is no wire short or burning smell to be found.
4. Dealership was not helpful as to "its not doing it now" during the service visit.

Van is currently in for a A1/A2 service. Hopefully it happens during its time in the shop.

Thanks for everyones input.

Interesting. My '07 seems to have near identical issue. Although this is the 1st time mine has happens. And it has been raining for 2 days straight. But issues are: dash light kinda flicker, power locks don't work, outside temp gauge doesn't work, brights don't work, rear wiper not working, intermittent wiper not working, wiper on slow runs fast, power windows don't work after shutting off engine and accessory but before openning door, and power doors don't work.

DrCranknWrench. Do you have anything for us? I did call the Honda dealer and they said they hadn't heard of this issue before. So it isn't a recall yet or maybe not an item that has hit multitudes of owners. But the fact that this similar yet very goofy issue is happening to at least 2 of us here (and I found similar postings elsewhere online) so there is something common here. And hopefully simple. Do you have access to any Technical Service Bulletin type stuff or anything?

Whew hew! Just got off the phone with a mechanic from church. He said the problem is a sensor inside the drivers side door panel. He is going to get me the specifics tomorrow. But said all I have to do is get it out, clean and dry it, then re seal it so tjat it doesnt get wet again!

I think it could be the master switch for all the locks.

I'm all fixed! There is a Honda TSB on it. Pull off the interior panel on the rear left hand side. Just inside of where the taillight is. It's a connector for the wiring harness. It's wet. Dry that puppy off. Seal it. And all fixed! To test you're on the right connector just pull it apart and 90% of those ghost issues are fixed. But dry it, reconnect and all is fixed!

That is great news. TSB is a good source. www.NHSTA.gov, is also a good place to pull that sort of stuff.
I am really glad to hear it is working for you and all is well.

Hello
Can you please tell exactly where this connector is? Is it where the jack is located?
My van is doing the same thing.
Thanks!

Customer came into my shop with the Same problem with 2007 Honda Odyssey.
did the connector behind the spare tire. and no fix.. no water.
Traced problem to Multi-Plex ( Cabin Fuse Panel ) Water leaked onto panel, shorted our fuse block/ panel. replaced and all fixed.. wish it was as easy and you all had, would of saved me a few hours of Diag time..
Ed
Anglesea Auto Repair NJ

To TommyBoy37.. My 2003 Honda Oddesey does the same things. for 2 years now each system takes turns flaking out. My cruise control works 200 miles, stops 600 miles and starts up again. Wiper fluid works in front, not back, then switches, then ok. Power sliding rear doors open, but when closing they just roll back and forth until you force them shut. remote keyless never worked. Power windows only driver side works now, back two "wings" are stuck in open and are currently covered with duck tape to keep rain/snow out of van. now neither front door opens with key, but rear door does. and yesterday the speedometer and tachometer jumped like crazy, then all "idiot" lights were popping off/on and after i pulled over, couldnt restart car...

@ DOREEN WRIGHT - I had the same problem with speedometer, tachometer and dashboard lights going nuts, dead battery after shutdown and it ended up being a bad alternator. You may have two different issues.

Hey,

Did you ever get the problem fixed?

Best, Ken

I recently had the same problem after heavy rains. No power door locks, no headlights, no turn signals, no intermittent wipers, no rear wiper. I did a lot of reviewing wiring diagrams, testing voltages here and there and finally with some suggestions from other forums came to the conclusion that it must be one of the MICU units. They are control units where at least a half a dozen wiring harnesses come together and are controlled by a communication bus. There is one integrated in the driver's kick panel fuse box. There is another in the rear passenger side behind the panel in the rear heater/tail light area. I found that there was water in the front MICU. Removed it, cleaned all connections (some were corroded) but still no luck. Then, I did the same for the rear which also had water on it! What a leaky van. Anyway, after that everything came to life. If just one of the communication bus wires is wet it will halt all related body control functions. Even seemingly simple things like wipers are all controlled via a communications bus. Hope this helps people.

Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help.

Cheers, Ken

Same here, two days rain and nothing works, no blinkers, dash stuff not working, etc. opened and water everywhere! This needs to be recalled!

That is a problem. I hope this thread gets picked up by Honda so they can see there is a problem.

Hi All,

I had the same issue and was able to narrow it down to happening during/after is was raining. I brought it to Honda and asked my service rep to check for Bulletins and sure enough he found one Service Bulletin 08-078 | Eletrical Problems and B-CAN DTCs after exposure to water/water leaks. I hope this helps someone resolve their concern as this has been maddening for months to try to get to the bottom of.

Rich

Great addition to this thread! . :)

Cheers, Ken

Took our 2003 Honda Odyssey to the garage after all of the lights came on in the dashboard, assuming it was the alternator as it went a few years ago and did the same thing. The garage said yes, alternator, and replaced it only charging labor because it was still under warranty. Went to pick it up 3 days after it was done (I was having surgery and couldn't get there the day they finished) and the battery was dead. They recharged it, got it running, but the locks on the doors wouldn't work. I noticed because I tried to unlock it to put something in the back and I couldn't get the doors to unlock. I can use the actual key in the door manually and get the front driver and passenger doors to unlock that way, but the two back doors are the automatic ones and they won't open. If you are in the car and hit the lock button on the door to unlock or lock you can hear a slight, electronic clicking sound as if it is trying to work, but nothing happens. If I reach in and manually unlock the back door it just slides right back locked again. That has never happened before. We've always been able to manually unlock the back door from the inside. The hatchback won't unlock either (and unfortunately that manual key entry is rusted and won't let me turn it). If I use the remote and press the lock button nothing happens. If I press the unlock button, the lights come inside and the flash on the outside the way they always do when the locks were working, but nothing else happens. The garage kept it for two more days and they say they have run all of the diagnostics on it and just can't figure it out. They did say that whatever is wrong with it also seems to be draining the battery as the battery consistently loses a charge while the car is just sitting, not being driven. I've made an appointment with the dealership to look at it next week, but I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts before then. The dealership will charge me $100 just to look at it. I hate to not fix it because it's still a great car with not a lot of mileage for the age, and we can't afford a new one, but I also don't want to dump a lot of money into an eleven year old car.

11 years and 85,000 miles??? My 25-year-old Grand Caravan has over 415,000 miles, just got home from a 1,500 mile round trip, and I would stick a thousand bucks into it if I ever had to just to avoid buying anything newer with all the over-complicated, unnecessary, and unreliable computers. If you like your van half as much as I like mine, fix it.

From what you described, it sounds like one of the lock switches is sticking on. There's a number of things that can happen. One is to have a switch physically stuck, typically due to food or something getting stuck in it. A less-common cause is to have frayed wires between a door's hinges, and two are touching. Depending on the design of the circuit, a lock wire could be touching a ground wire, (or power window wire), or a 12 volt feed wire.

When you have remote keyless entry, you usually will have the driver's door on a circuit by itself because it takes two presses of the remote button to open the other three doors. That means a computer is involved, and therefore, more potential for problems. When you said a rear lock slides back to the locked position by itself, that is a major clue. A power lock motor will typically overheat when it's left energized too long and a thermal auto-resetting circuit breaker will trip. That means the locks won't be operating all the time, but when they are, they can draw enough current to ruin a good battery in a few days or less.

my 2007 touring odyssey has been doing similar problems:
I call it electrical lupus as one item after another stops working.
The first thing to mess up was a parasitic battery drain; 24-48 hrs to drain the battery.
next thing to go was the driving lights, then the rear camera.
both high beams stopped working at the same time. Then, not all at the same time, but the rear hatch closer stopped working, wipers only work on fast speed, power door locks briefly screwed up.
wipers currently may or may not work on something other than high speed.
for the lights, I have done the obvious - replace both high beams, replace both DRL's, replace DRL relay, replace combo headlight switch on steering, replace each headlight fuse, replace DRL fuse.
I disconnect the negative terminal every night due to the battery drain.
I am out of ideas.
will look into the panel areas to see if there is a moisture problem, but hope there would be more specific info at what I am looking at - maybe pics......

Sorry but this may have been missed as it was on an old post. Please let us know if you figured this out.

If not, I would start with having the battery and alternator tested as it sounds like this is a low voltage issue. When batteries drain they cause all sorts of crazy things to happen.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

If the battery needs replaced, then I would check the alternator as well since that may be the root cause of it failing.

Let us know if you have other questions on this. Thanks

I've been getting email updates on this post from 2012. The issue was never resolved and we have moved on from our 2007 Odyssey EX-L.

The car continued to exhibit electrical and mechanical issues up until last year. Ending with the A/C disintegrating, steering rack and tie-rods failing, and finally the alternator went bad on its last use. Put a new battery in and drove it to the dealership. Got $1,000.00 on trade in. Bought a new 2021 VW Atlas SE R-Line. Great vehicle. AWD, three rows, plenty of towing capacity. It was also less expensive than the Current Odyssey.

Again, thanks for all your posts and suggestions.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Sorry if this is an inconvenience to you. Sometimes people with the same model car and are exhibiting the same symptom or issue will attach or (merge) their question onto yours in hope of learning how to get advice or a solution to the problem. Thanks again for using 2CarPros and we hope you will use our site again in the future when needed.

I know this is an old post, but wanted to add something additional and see if it could be part of the cause. I am just now having this issue on my 2005 Honda Odyssey. I really like this vehicle as it has lasted a long time with few problems until now. I am exhibiting the same symptoms; key fob not working, door locks wont work, low speed wipers, outside temp gauge, and turn signals. A while back the automatic doors stopped working and we have just been manually opening them. We looked at the TSB for this issue and also some other fixes regarding water leaks that might be the cause. However, what I found mainly due to finding the battery dead one morning, is that if I disconnected the battery and after cleaning the posts reconnected it suddenly everything started working, including the sliding doors... But then the next morning I found the battery dead and right back where I started.

My question is, could a bad battery be the cause of all these issues? I am planning on having the battery tested today, but wanted anyones thoughts on if I should be looking for something more electrical or it's just a bad battery?? Hopefully the battery is the cause as that is a relatively low cost repair...

These systems are part of what is called load shedding when the battery is weak but normally not all at the same time.

Clearly based on this info in this post, the battery is where you need to start. Here is a guide that will help with this testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please let us know what you find with this battery. If this is not it, it may be best to get a new post started with your specific issues and vehicle and we can work through it.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Thanks

Thanks for the response. They tested it and said it had a weak charge. I ended up going ahead and replacing it as it was quite a few years old. However, by the time I got home, I found that the problem still persists. I think I am at the point where it is beyond my know how and plan to take it to my mechanic to have a look. Being that it's a 2005, I might opt to upgrade to a newer model and not dump much more money into it. I really don't feel comfortable taking it too far and/or driving it around with no turn signals...

If I do pursue getting it fixed, I will start a new post with any new information.

Thanks for the update. However, one suggestion that I would make is we should always pay for the charge to get it diagnosed. That is a good investment to know you are making the right choice if you are going to get rid of it.

The last thing you want to do is dump the vehicle when it was a module that you could get for a couple hundred dollars or less.

However, if it is going to be extensive or they cannot be sure what the issue is then it would not be worth putting the money into it.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Please come back in the future with other issues.

Also, we would like to know what you end up doing with this one. Thanks