Alternator Replacement? help!

It does sound like the alternator needs to be replaced here is a guide to help walk you through with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

How do I restart the security system? Thank you !

if no manual check online I forgot to put that in reply. also have the battery checked for condition including load test. most places do that for free

Two days ago I installed a new alternator into my car because AutoZone had told me it was bad . Today my car wouldn’t start due to electrical issues . Then I checked and the main power wire on the alternator and it had melted the plastic around it . Can the alternator be overheating or do I need an upgrade of wires?

Hi,

The fist thing I need to know is how much power the alternator is making. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Here are a couple links you may find helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Now, the voltage regulator is integral with the alternator. It could be bad and allowing the alt to over charge. Make sure none of the wiring is damaged or shorting.

Another thing that can cause a wire to melt is a poor connection. If the wire was left loose or is corroded, that can cause it to overheat.

If possible, take a pic of the affected wire and upload it for me to see. Also, let me know the results of the alternator test.

I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Well the car won’t even start.

Okay. Without it being able to be started, the only thing you can do is remove the alternator and have it bench tested. When you say the car won't start, do you mean the battery is dead or is it cranking and not starting? By any chance, were you able to get a pic of the wire in question?

Let me know.

Joe

The dash lights turn on but it doesn’t start. so yes I’m pretty sure the battery is dead.

Another picture.

It looks like the insulator on the alternator melted. Was it good and tight? That is the only thing I can think of at this point to create that much heat. I was thinking the insulation on the wire melted. Am I correct on my assumption that it is limited to the alternator itself?

Joe

My mechanic stated that the alternator belt is only hitting 1/3 of the charging area for the alternator. Grandson had a super stereo system installed using 0 gauge wire sequenced to another battery in the back of the car. All had been disconnected and a standard alternator installed. New battery now installed. Today the belt broke. Does a Honda require a Honda only alternator?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If the belt is only touching 1/3 of the alt pulley, something is out of alignment. And no, you don't have to use a Honda Alternator. Since the belt is only on a portion of the pulley, that is what caused it to break.

What I suggest is to first confirm you have the correct alternator for your vehicle. Second, check to see if there is something causing a misalignment. The belt should sit fully on the pulley, so something is causing the alt to be off.

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacing the alternator. I'm adding them so you can see the process and how everything should be mounted.

2005 Honda Civic L4-1.7L SOHC
Replacement
Vehicle Starting and Charging Charging System Alternator Service and Repair Procedures Replacement
REPLACEMENT
Alternator Replacement

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio, then write down the customer's radio station presets.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.


pic 1

3. Remove the adjust plate mounting bolt (A), locknut (B), and mounting bolt (C), then remove the power steering (P/S) pump belt (D) and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses.


pic 2

4. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) and alternator cable (B) from the alternator.


pic 3

5. Loosen the adjusting boll (A), and remove the lock bolt (B) and mounting bolt (C), then remove the alternator belt and alternator.
6. Install in the reverse order of removal.
7. Adjust the alternator belt tension or the alternator-A/C compressor belt tension.
8. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.
9. Set the clock.
10. Do the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) idle learn procedure.

Check that and let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Yes the insulator on the alternator was melted.

My grandson removed the power steering. Does that make a difference?

For that to have happened, I suspect there was a poor connection. Anytime electric jumps or arcs, it creates heat. I would return the alternator, get a new one, and confirm it is making a good connection. Then, check the alternator output with a multi meter or volt meter.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let me know the results.

Joe

Welcome back:

I believe the power steering on this vehicle is electric, so that shouldn't play a role in the problem. Does it appear that the pulleys align?

One night while driving home, my lights got dim, my radio started cutting off and on, my car charger cut off. I didn't think to much about it at the. The next morning it wouldn't start. I jumped it off and got it to Walmart and bought a new battery thinking that may have been the only problem. After two days, the same problem happened. I thought the alternator had gone out. After replacing the alternator, I figured it would charge the new battery back up. After a day or two I had the same problems again. I took the battery back and was able to get a new one but it didn't help. I was barely able to get it to a mechanic shop the next day. They told me they couldn't do a diagnostics test because the alternator was only putting out 9v. I took the alternator back thinking I might have just got a bad one and swapped it for another one. After installing, no difference in the car. With a new alternator and belt, it's still not charging the battery. I've checked all fuses, plugs, replaced battery terminals, checked for any parasitic draw, I can't figure it out. The battery will read 12.3v or less with the car off. When running or idling, it doesn't go any higher than when it was off. Any ideas?

Hello,

This could be a problem with the voltage regulator or the electrical connector or wiring from the alternator to the battery. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's charging system, for reference, and a guide from the vehicle manufacturer for tracking down exactly what the problem is. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are ale to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Here is a guide to help you test the alternator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

I have seen the multiplex control unit cause this issue BTW. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Electrical problem
2002 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

How do you remove and replace the alternator in a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7?

Hi iamharleyguy, ALTERNATOR Removal 1. Ensure you have the anti-theft code the radio. Write down the frequencies for radio's preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3. Remove the adjust plate mounting bolt "A", locknut "B" and mounting bolt "C". Remove the Power Steering (P/S) pump belt "D" and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses. See Fig. 9 . 4. Disconnect the 4 pin connector "A" and alternator cable "B" from the alternator. See Fig. 10 . 5. Loosen the adjusting bolt "A", and remove the lock bolt "B" and mounting bolt "C". Remove the alternator belt and alternator. See Fig. 11 .

Fig. 9: Removing Alternator Components Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Fig. 10: Disconnecting 4-Pin Connector Alternator Cable From Alternator Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Fig. 11: Removing Alternator Alternator Belt Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

I was driving and the speedometer and radio die and after a while they came back. and a few days after the car would not start so I check the batery for the amp. there were none left. I change the batery but i started the car and the sign for the batery in the dash was still on. is it a problem whit the alternator or it's something else.

Try this-get a voltmeter read the battery open voltage before you start vehicle record it-reading must be 12.4 volts or better. Now start vehicle put headlights/heater On-record readings it should be 13.5-15.5 volts do you have this.

Electrical problem
2002 Honda Civic 4 cyl Automatic 70000 miles

We have replaced our alternator 5 times in the last 6 mo. the first time we did put in a new battery. Could this be an electrical problem or just faulty rebuilt alternators?

In order to help you, we need to know what seems to be the problem. Please explain, in detail, the problem that you are experiencing. Also, what prompted the alternator replacement at the beginning? Did you bring the "new" alternator to get it bench tested at an auto parts store? Don't leave anything out.

my car's speedometer stopped working while driving. as the rpm's hit zero then about three minutes later the car felt like it was starting to shut off from lack of power. i have changed the alternator and i have looked at the eld the number 15 fuse is putting out 12.6 volts. When i drive the vehicle if i turn on the heat or my bright lights then the car starts to feel like it is going to shut off. i have used three different battery's and i can not figure out where i am loosing the voltage. what do you think this problem could be from?

Hello my name is Dave.

First thing I would check would be the ground cable, I have encountered a more than average rate of failure with the ground cables on Honda's. While it is a simple fix it can cause symptoms that don't seem that simple.

An easy test to see if this is an issue is to take a set of jumper cables and attach one black to the engine making sure it makes good contact, and take the other and attach it to the ground on the battery and see if your voltage at the battery increases while it's running. If it does replace the ground cable and that should resolve your problem.

If you find this doesn't resolve your problem I would test the alternator.
Here is a link to our tutorial on testing it:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Please keep in mind that even though you bought a "new" alternator it could still be faulty (most at the parts store are actually rebuilt)

Please keep us up to date on your progress and thank you for using 2CarPros!