Fuel pump or fuel relay

2007 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
180,000 MILES • 3.3L • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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83MONTESS
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Our van was running fine we shut it of and went back to start it a hour later and wont fire. Turn over like a top acts like it wants to but doesnt. Has no codes, great spark, good fuss and relay. We can get it to run if we pour gas down the throttle body. There doesnt seem to be a way to check pressure without buying a $200+ tool. So what do you all think.
Thanks
Oct 3, 2015 at 6:58 PM
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CARADIODOC
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The 3.3Ls used to have a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail on top of the engine. That might have gone away by 2007. You can also listen for the hum of the fuel pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If you don't hear that, try banging on the bottom of the gas tank while a helper cranks the engine. Chrysler fuel pumps almost always fail by failing to start up. They rarely stop running once they've started running.
Oct 3, 2015 at 8:08 PM
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GIRLASH007
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What are the symptoms if you have a bad fuel pump or relay? How would I know if I need to replace the fuel pump or fuel pump relay? I ask so when I take it to the auto shop, I have somewhat of idea what would they be telling me and not to get rip off. Great site!
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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The car will not run. Here is a guide and some diagrams (below) so you can do some easy testing. If you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over you should hear the fuel pump in the tank turn on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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THIS IS MIKE
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We recommended that you have the fuel pressure tested to see if you indeed had fuel pressure and at what pressure. Most of the time even if there is fuel going to the engine, if it is not sufficient pressure it will not operate properly. A weak or failing fuel pump can work intermittently before complete failure. If there is no pressure, you may have a circuit or relay that has blown and you will have to manually check the voltage at the pump and relay with a voltmeter. If you have no pressure and there is voltage at the pump, then the pump is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is no voltage at the pump the relay may be bad. If there is voltage to the relay but not out then the relay is bad and needs to be replaced.

Engine temperature has nothing to do with fuel pressure.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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GIRLASH007
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Thank you Mike for your explanation.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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THIS IS MIKE
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We really do try our best to understand the problem completely before giving advice. The more information we have to start with the better. Similar symptoms can actually be many different problems and without information like what the actual fuel pressure is at the time of the failure it is judgement call on what to and we don't like to guess and just throw parts at a problem until fixed. We are here to try and save people money by systematically diagnosing the problem. Together we will help you get to the solution of your problem and apologize for the rough start.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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GIRLASH007
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We tested it for fuel pressure by using the fuel pressure test gauge. I heard the pump run when I turn the power on, on the car. I check the fuel pressure test gauge and I am not getting any pressure.

After I got the car running I disconnected the straighter valve from the fuel rail line and fuel came out.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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THIS IS MIKE
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Even if fuel comes out a little bit, it needs to be of sufficient pressure to operate the engine properly. The fuel pump can work intermittently before total failure. You will need to replace the fuel pump if you do not have pressure at the fuel rail.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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VICTORIA KELLY
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Tow and Country stow go seat does that need a stronger pump. i changed the fuel pump it is new.

Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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VICTORIA KELLY
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I put a new fuel pump on went thirty miles and now it will not start. now it is like it is not getting any gas.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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THIS IS MIKE
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Hi Victoria,
Have the fuel pressure tested with a gauge just to make sure the new pump is working properly. Also, check to see if you are getting power to the injectors. If you have a bad crank angle sensor it will not allow fuel to flow because it senses that there is no engine rotation. If the engine turns over, you have to find out if the problem is the lack of fuel or spark. The computer uses sensors to activate both fuel and spark and also may be the problem.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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JOE JOHNSON2
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I am having an issue with my 2000 Town and Country. I connected a jumper in place of the relay and was getting power to the fuel pump so I figured it was an issue with the relay. However, after replacing the relay there is no power to the pump. I assume it is something to do with relay box. What could cause the relay not to receive the signal to kick on? There was power to both sides of the relay, so I am kind of at a loss here.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Hey,

There is an auto shut down relay that controls the system that had problems with those cars. here is a wiring diagram and a guide so you can do some checks on the relay. The diagram also give location. In integrated power module.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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RANDY PRAZAK
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Have same problem but if I turn the key to on and off a few times it seems to allow it to finnaly start. After I turn it off and try to crank again won't start unless I turn the key to off to on a few times. I can here the pump and it's like by me doing that it brings up the pressure enuff to start when it does it runs but the idealing is rough. I already drop the tank I order a new filter first had to drop the tank mostly ALl the way to get to it lol. Anyway its very dirty and has black stuff come out of it with the gas. I also jump the fule filter to see if it's working at all and it does push gas out. I'm almost sure it's the pump but would like to here what you here have to say
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:16 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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It does sounds like the fuel pump is going out. Here are instructions on how to change the fuel pump out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:17 PM (Merged)
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EULALIO
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I have a 2000 Chrysler Town N Country van Xlt 3.3 I drive it a few miles shut it off come back in a few minutes and it won't start, I wait a couple hours and it starts right up. I put a new fuel filter, that didn't solve it, I changed the air Filter that wasn't it either, It's like it heats up the fuel pump or something and it gets no gas to the engine something shuts it down, its the wierdest thing, no gas smell even pumping the accelerator, it turns over but doesn't start, how long are these fuel pumps good for. the van runs smooth as silk when the pump is working. if it is the pump, what can I do to find out the problem. could it be a relay problem? HELP.
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:17 PM (Merged)
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ZACKMAN
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Replace your Automatic Shut Down relay, located inside the power distribution center.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_00tcpdc_1.jpg

Dec 4, 2019 at 2:17 PM (Merged)
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STEVEL22
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My van stalled today. While I was driving down the freeway (using Cruise Control), the car seemd to accelerate abnormally while going up an incline. It eased up for a second or two and then accelerated again. I shut off the cruise control to regain control of my speed. The gas pedal was limp and I coasted to the side of the road. At first the car would start and just stall out after a few second. I have gone back to check it and it no longer starts up. Is this a fuel pump issue? A friend suggested it may be the fuel pump or it could be an issue with the fuel pump relay. Can you venture a guess?
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:17 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Chances are your friend is correct. You can check it two ways. First, and easiest, if the engine will start with starting fluid and run for a few seconds, that means it isn't getting gas. Or, you can check fuel pump pressure with a gauge. Here is a how to video and directions for using a gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent the gauge to you.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find. NOTE: If it starts with starting fluid, you will need to check fuel pump pressure regardless to determine if the problem is the pump or an injector issue.

Joe
Dec 4, 2019 at 2:17 PM (Merged)
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MKLINT
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I have a 2011 Chrysler T&C. This is a great video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEoUYm-bxXA I also printed the safety recall sheet and took it out with me. It gives confidence before you cut a wire. My dealer gave me a generic, one-size-fits-all relay bypass kit 6814 2156 AC-001 from Mopar. They don't provide any instructions, so you'll need to know; 1. You will also have to buy a 20a inline fuse and ring terminal. I went to Home Depot. 2. Put the wires into the block "feet first" before you start splicing. That way you won't have to double splice everything like I did. 3. The connections to the relay posts are as follows; Brown to 2 (86); Blue to 3 (30); Pink (ignition switch) to 1 (86); Hot (TIPM terminal fused) to 5 (87). This was not an overly difficult job and there was lots of room to work for a nice change. Good Luck!


Mar 1, 2020 at 6:17 AM
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CARADIODOC
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What problem were you trying to solve, and what did this procedure tell you?

Bypassing relays is a common procedure typically done with a piece of wire or a stretched-out paper clip. The problem is all that does is let you take voltage readings in the circuit to locate a break, otherwise the circuit is only turned on when the engine is rotating, (cranking or running).

A lot of people added to this post, but there's little response to say what the solutions were. GM fuel pumps typically fail after they started running, leaving you sitting on the side of the road. Chrysler fuel pumps almost always fail differently. When the internal brushes in the motor are worn, the pump fails to start up. leaving you sitting in the driveway. It is extremely uncommon for a Chrysler fuel pump to stop running while you're driving.

When you do experience stalling while driving on a Chrysler product, it is usually caused by one of three things. There can be corroded terminals in a connector or some other break in the wire going to the fuel pump. In that case, you'll still have spark when trying to restart the engine.

The second is a failure of the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. It's their two signals that tell the Engine Computer the engine is rotating, and it's time to turn on the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay. That relay sends 12 volts to the ignition coils, injectors, alternator field, and the fuel pump or pump relay. In this case you will not have spark along with the lack of fuel pressure. Way too many people get hung up on the first thing they find missing, either the loss of spark or the loss of fuel pressure, and waste their time in those systems. This is like saying the right front head light bulb must be burned out because it doesn't turn on, but you failed to notice none of the bulbs turn on because the battery is disconnected. You have to look for all the other symptoms that may be related.

The additional clue to a failed cam or crank sensor is they commonly fail by becoming heat-sensitive on all car brands. It is common for them to work as long as you're driving and natural air flow keeps them cool. When you stop for a short time with a hot engine, as when stopping for gas, engine heat has time to migrate up to the sensors causing one to fail. This will be a crank / no-start with no spark, no injector pulses, and no fuel pump. The clue is the sensor will work again after cooling down for about an hour, then the engine will start like normal. One misleading clue is you'll still have normal fuel pressure. Besides turning on when the engine is rotating, the ASD relay also gets turned on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. You may hear the hum of the fuel pump for that one second. That is to insure fuel pressure up for starting in case it bled down over days or weeks. With a failed sensor, since the injectors don't pulse open during cranking, none of that fuel pressure is used up. That's why we get confused when we see normal fuel pressure with a crank / no-start problem.

The third cause of stalling is extremely elusive, but it has been around since at least the mid '70s. That is a plugged or collapsing fuel strainer on the fuel pick-up tube inside the gas tank. It is important to note that unlike on other car brands, except for diesel engines, Chrysler fuel filters last the life of the vehicle unless they rust out and start to leak. You will never solve a running problem by replacing the fuel filter, so put that on the bottom of the list of suspects.

The typical symptoms when the strainer becomes blocked, with fuel-injected engines, is the engine runs fine for as many as 15 miles, then the engine stalls when the highest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting. When this happened to my '88 Grand Caravan, (twice), the engine ran fine for hundreds of miles at highway speed, then stalled when I turned off at my exit ramp. After sitting on the side of the road in a pile of tears for five minutes, it would restart and run okay again for a few miles. The best way to verify this is to connect a fuel pressure gauge and hook it under a wiper arm so you can see what happens to fuel pressure when the stalling occurs. The second time I strapped it to the radio antenna for a year and a half since the problem only occurred when dragging a big tandem axle enclosed trailer that was bigger than the van.

Again, this slowly-dropping fuel pressure while you're driving is commonly caused by the fuel pump on GM vehicles, but Chrysler pumps fail in a different way. This gradual loss of fuel pressure on Chryslers is caused by that strainer in the tank. For most models it is a clipped-on part, but for a few you have to buy a new pump assembly including the housing, not just a pump that gets installed in that housing. It cost $12.00 for my Caravan. Previous to that, I had the same problem with two cars with carburetors. Those strainers cost $3.00 each, but the symptoms were different. With those, the symptoms were identical to simply running out of gas. the slower you drove, the better the engine would run. With fuel injected engines, the faster you drive, the better it runs.

One more note of great value. When you have a crank / no-start on a Chrysler product, and you do have spark, but you don't hear the fuel pump run for one second when turning on the ignition switch, try banging on the bottom of the gas tank. Sometimes it works better if you do that while a helper is cranking the engine, but it usually isn't necessary. Banging will jar the fuel pump's motor just enough for the worn brushes to make contact and get the motor started. From then on it will continue running until you stop the engine. The same problem will occur, perhaps the next time you try to start the engine, or it may be months before it occurs again, but ultimately the fuel pump will need to be replaced.

For anyone trying to bypass a relay, here's the common terminal basing. Connect terminals 30 and 87 together, or those indicated in my nifty drawings.

To everyone who contributed to this question, please post a follow-up telling what your solution was and how you figured it out. That will help others researching the same problem.

Thank you for using 2carpros.
Mar 1, 2020 at 7:01 PM